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Edit: Not arguing promise Comparing them is quite hard because the processes are completely different.... I guess 'achievable detail' is a better way to compare. I'm working with a few 120 scans at 7240*7240 and the quality is fine, and that'll print at 60x60cm at 300dpi. This guy seems to be accurate though, using line pairs per millimeter.... it's all rather vague though.   I was thinking of a few fun things that could be done for the OP.. maybe run through the dark room process for a black and white print, show and tell with old cameras etc. I'm tempted to try the dark room one next week... blambert fucked around with this message at 14:53 on Jun 1, 2008 |
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Jun 1, 2008 13:25
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| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 09:34 |
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Nice one, all covered there.quote:Then spread out the tank so that you know where all the pieces are in the dark (hosed that one up a few times) I've found it's 100% personal preference, but I always use a changing bag (about $20) so I can't lose stuff. I've dropped and lost a few rolls on the loading room floor, plus it's just nicer being in light I think... just make sure you remember to put everything in (happens far too frequently). Edit: Oh another one is opening the film canister and then finding you've put your scissors in the outer layer. blambert fucked around with this message at 00:07 on Jun 2, 2008 |
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Jun 1, 2008 23:55
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As it's 100% manual you'll need a light meter. I have a Sekonic 308B which has worked great in the studio (syncs to flash) as well as outdoors.
blambert fucked around with this message at 18:11 on Jun 2, 2008 |
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Jun 2, 2008 18:08
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Snaily posted:I'd really like to find someone local that prints optically; the usual response is scan and digital print, I think. I've found it's very expensive, but use it for important stuff. I'm lucky to have this place 5 minutes away for all the stuff I need to get properly printed, it's known as the best in the UK, all of the London unis and the Royal College send their stuff here. Prices reflect it, but they don't mess around.  For digital printing, the local student place I use to get C41 developed charges £5 for dev and contact, then about £1.20 per print... so it's not toooo bad. I imagine the prices aren't drastically different in the US? blambert fucked around with this message at 12:19 on Jun 4, 2008 |
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Jun 4, 2008 12:10
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I've seen cheapo places cut negs and slice a few millimeters off the top of a neg. The local pro place hand develops according the the film you supply. The difference between prices isn't that much either.... they just have different interests. Also, pro places will generally have much less traffic, so instead of 10 films per hour, they'll be doing 4 or 5 properly.
blambert fucked around with this message at 00:40 on Jun 10, 2008 |
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Jun 10, 2008 00:37
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All my cameras just chill on my desk, I usually end up fiddling around with them at various points during the day. Talking of gear, show and tell time I reckon. This is my Bronica ETRsi, love it to death. It takes 120 film and shoots 6x4.5 through a 75mm f/2.8 Zenzanon PE lens, which has better optics and coating then the earlier MC and EII versions. Leaf shutter with 1/500 sync etc etc. It's a wonderful camera, I picked it up from eBay for a good price, boxed in mint condition (still had the original battery and the serial number sticker on the tripod mount is unmarked).   And with the speed grip and AEII prism viewfinder (built in lightmeter which is useful)... I usually use it like this, but it gets loving heavy after a while. Also, using the waist level finder and guessing exposures is much more fun. 
blambert fucked around with this message at 00:43 on Jun 20, 2008 |
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Jun 19, 2008 13:52
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I paid £350 on eBay (with 3 rolls of 800z and 3 of PanF Plus 50), seems to be the going rate... possibly slightly high but considering it's condition I don't really mind. Ones with the EII lenses go for quite a bit less. Edit: That's UK prices mind you. Am I right in assuming it'd be cheaper in the US? blambert fucked around with this message at 23:53 on Jun 19, 2008 |
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Jun 19, 2008 19:33
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That looks a lot more like a light leak. Could it be a small light leak and a single point, and as the film rachets past it exposes the film, and depending on how smooth/fast you wound on affected the outcome?
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Aug 14, 2008 19:47
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| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 09:34 |
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I've never had to do it, but I've heard under 800 should be fine and that you can ask for it to be hand checked (seems doubtful to me) if you want them to. Edit: I completely misread that, no idea if they do it at borders. blambert fucked around with this message at 19:36 on Aug 29, 2008 |
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Aug 29, 2008 19:34
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