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drat you rich people and your Tri-X! I shoot mostly Arista II (rebranded Fomapan), and develop in Diafine. Used to use D-76 but I'm a lazy bastard. A picture using the above combo (Bessa R + Jupiter 8):  Also: I have 8 rolls of Kodachrome in my freezer. Is this awesome? Y/N hybr1d posted:What's a good rangefinder between the FED's and the Leicas? Although the Leicas are beautiful, optic-clockwork-jewelry beauties, I'd like something cheaper if I can get it without sacrificing too much in quality. Just remember that the lens is more important. Consider these as choices: Bessa R: I own one and love it. Canon 7: Probably the best of the 60's-70's rangefinders. Clayton Bigsby posted:And in the case of TLRs and some rangefinders, because of the leaf shutter. The quietest camera I have is a Minolta Hi-Matic with a leaf shutter lens. 365 Nog Hogger fucked around with this message at 08:26 on Jun 9, 2008 |
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Jun 9, 2008 08:19
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Well, first you're going to have to decide on a format (4x5, 8x11, etc.), then worry about what camera.
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Jun 10, 2008 07:12
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Pompous Rhombus posted:I have mine on a bookshelf. I'm always picking up my Seagull and playing around with it, or looking wistfully at my broken LCA and Olympus XA. Broken XA? How broken? Because it really deserves to be fixed and used. 
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Jun 19, 2008 07:28
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 My Yashica arrived today! 1 sec and 1/2 sec speeds are a bit sticky, but other than that it seems fine. Can't wait to run a roll through her. This thing is way smaller than I thought it would be, yet heavier. Came with a decent condition leather case too, but I think I'll keep it out of that. 365 Nog Hogger fucked around with this message at 22:24 on Jun 19, 2008 |
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Jun 19, 2008 22:19
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Back_From_Termina- Very nice. I have to wait for my film to get here from freestyle before I can try my Yashica.
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Jun 23, 2008 07:35
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Look what came in the mail! Just got a birthday present in the mail, a Kodak 616 folder from my Aunt's collection. Unfortunately it won't see any use as film for it is something of a rarity, but it sure is pretty!  And, of course, goodies from freestyle.
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Jun 27, 2008 22:24
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brad industry posted:I left 5 bricks of 120 film in my car for one maybe two days when it was ~100F in Savannah, GA. How hosed am I? Shoot one and find out? You might be pretty hosed, though it matters more if they were in direct sunlight than the temperature.
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Jun 28, 2008 04:25
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Woot, first test roll done, just scanned, from my Yashica! My Dog:  My Sister:  My Parents:  The lines from drying will not happen again. :P I can hardly wait to make some real photos with it.  e: forgot SA hates imageshack, rehosting. e: fixed? 365 Nog Hogger fucked around with this message at 01:54 on Jun 29, 2008 |
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Jun 29, 2008 01:49
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hybr1d posted:My 4x5 came to me with a dirty lens- it took me nearly a half hour to figure out how to open it You should just send the flash handle to me is what you should do.  There really isn't any way to tell if they're exposed or worth saving, short of developing those sheets. And yes, Diafine will bring peace to the middle east.
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Jun 30, 2008 06:35
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. I have two questions about it: Is the flash assembly worth salvaging or collecting? It's referred to as the "star wars" handle and uses GE flash bulbs.
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So, 4th of July. I think I'm gonna try to take some snapshots with my XA2 + X11 flash loaded with APX400. The flash ought to make the non-highspeed film irrelevant, right?
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Jul 4, 2008 23:21
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Reichstag posted:So, 4th of July. I think I'm gonna try to take some snapshots with my XA2 + X11 flash loaded with APX400. The flash ought to make the non-highspeed film irrelevant, right? Well, looks like the only pictures that DID come out were the ones I used flash on. I don't know what the gently caress is up with this camera, but here is an example of the poo poo it pulled over the fourth:  That is pretty much every shot that I didn't use flash on. What the hell?
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Jul 7, 2008 00:32
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8th-samurai posted:Looks like a light leak. That's what I thought. What's throwing me off is the flash thing.
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Jul 7, 2008 01:44
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killabyte posted:You really can't develop them in Diafine without overdeveloping, especially the Tri-X. Tri-X in Diafine is rated at between 1200-1600. Developing it in Diafine is going to lead to a 3 stop overdevelop. Not really. It depends on the conditions they were shot in. People get workable negs out of Tri-X at box speed in Diafine if it was shot in contrasty light. Although, remember, Diafine is a compensating developer, it develops to exhaustion, you cannot pull film in it. APX 400 will work just fine, it works out to about box speed, if not a 1/4 stop under in diafine.
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Jul 9, 2008 02:19
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Yeah, you could develop those in Diafine, though I'm not sure why you would want to. Diafine is ideal for roll film because you don't have consistency between exposures. On sheet film you can develop each frame exactly how you want...
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Jul 24, 2008 08:24
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johnasavoia posted:I want to because I plan on shooting a lot of roll film, but also some paper negatives, and I dont want two developers. Wait, paper negatives, sorry, I didn't read properly. I don't know if it will work with paper, I just read 4x5 and assumed normal sheet film.
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Jul 24, 2008 21:22
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Hey there breathstealer, my buddy, my pal, my sharing-film-with-me-friend.
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Jul 31, 2008 22:35
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TokenBrit posted:Do people tend to develop and print B&W themselves, and get someone else to develop colour and then print it themselves, or am I way off the mark here? I've got access to some pretty good labs, and a fully kitted out darkroom. Pretty much. I know people who farm out their BW development, though I see no reason other than time (Really? Come on, that's a lame excuse) to do that. C-41 processing is very standardized and if there's a half-competent staff member working the machine, your stuff will be fine. With BW on the other hand, there are a huge number of variables which I would not leave up to someone else.
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Aug 15, 2008 09:00
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Beasticly posted:So I got some diafine powder to make one gallon of A and B, but my developing tank (chamber?) only holds 400mL of chemical. Is it alright for me to half or even quarter the recipes on all my chemicals (diafine, fixer and washer) so that I don't need big one gallon bottles when I'm only using 400mL of chemical at a time? No, just mix it all up correctly, and pour in the correct amount each time, then pour it back into the gallon container, it's better for the developer.
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Aug 30, 2008 04:07
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Even better, buy the Arista Premium 400, it's Tri-X.
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Sep 14, 2008 03:05
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 Who just bought a nokton 50 1.5? This guy. Been waiting to replace my Jupiter-8 for awhile, saw this on the bay for a good price, bought it. It'll be nice to shoot with a modern lens. Also, this is what happens when you shoot APX 400 at 3200(or thereabouts) in Diafine: 
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Sep 17, 2008 04:16
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Luxmore posted:I think your lens will be better than my lens "Newer, Sharper, Faster" not better. 
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Sep 17, 2008 04:58
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I tried my hand at real printing for the first time today. Not enough time before the lab closed to do any enlarging, but it was fun just to do a contact sheet and a few test strips to prepare for enlarging.
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Oct 12, 2008 02:53
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Rontalvos posted:I've seen so much love for Tri-X 400 but what about Kodak Plus-X 125? That's all I've ever used and I love how it looks when I go to make prints. dunno posted:Does anyone else use diafine largely out of laziness? That, and I don't want to deal with trying to maintain chemical temps without special equipment.
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Oct 23, 2008 02:12
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Clayton Bigsby posted:What, like a thermometer? Hardy-har, I mean getting it to stay at one temp.
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Oct 23, 2008 04:08
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Haggins posted:Does anyone know of a site that shows examples of the different film types? I'd like to experiment with film as I think it has a look that digital can't replicate. Search flickr for tags (ie: I want to find Velvia 50 shots that have been crossprocessed, I would search for "Velvia+50+Cross+Xprocess+xpro")
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Oct 31, 2008 09:32
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TLR's are the poo poo, congrats on that. Post some scans of your shots if you can!
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Nov 6, 2008 04:42
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From my new Nokton 50 1.5: (Arista Premium/Tri-X in Diafine)
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Nov 11, 2008 05:17
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VoodooXT posted:Hey, I just realized you post on RangefinderForum. Heh, yeah, do you?
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Nov 12, 2008 19:21
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For $100 you could do far better. Since it needs new seals, and is a 'forgotten' brand, I wouldn't pay more than $30. Make sure to test the different shutter speeds, make sure none of them are sticking, and seem to be going for the right amount of time. To be honest, most any TLR in working (no leaks, fungus, haze) condition will give you great results. No meter? No problem, either go Sunny 16, buy a cheap used external meter, or meter with another camera! Some samples from rollops: http://flickr.com/search/?q=rollop
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Nov 13, 2008 07:08
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pwn posted:I also want to pick up some good true B&W film while I'm there. What's the preferred types? I didn't think to jot down the names of what they had or even take a photo of the selection, sorry. I was happy with the Kodak 400 B&W colour process film but I wanna try "real" B&W film for fun. Tri-X is the answer to all of your dreams, and can be purchased rebranded as Arista Premium 400 for cheap.
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Nov 15, 2008 13:17
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So, I've been learning to wet print in my school's darkroom for the past few weeks, and am finally getting to be decent at it. However, today I drymatted prints for the first time, and it will be the end of me. I cannot for the life of me get even sides, straight lines and keep the matte board clean.dunno posted:Am I crazy? Will I simply be a slave to the tri-pod? Is my belief that 6x6 is the one true MF aspect ratio irrational and flawed? Should I save a bit of money by looking harder and find a Yashica TLR instead?
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Nov 17, 2008 04:55
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The canonets are solid entry level RFs, but they are all (iirc) fully automatic, which isn't what a lot of us are looking for in our cameras.
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Nov 19, 2008 01:19
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Well, if you're so inclined you can shoot Tri-X at 1200, maybe 1600 if you develop in Diafine. There are drawbacks however; In a compensating developer you don't have control over contrast, so some shots might not come out as you intend them. What it does do is garauntee printable negs from most of your shots.
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Nov 19, 2008 01:59
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brad industry posted:Why are you drymatting at all? I never understood the point. Mats are supposed to be disposable protectors for your prints, semi-permanently attached a print to one seems to defeat the purpose. Learn to cut window matts. Required for the class. 
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Nov 20, 2008 00:20
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pwn posted:I'm still relatively new to film. I'm looking at finally getting a Nikon 35mm SLR and was wondering if it's possible/advisable to shoot a single roll of slide film at different speed settings? Like if I shoot a single roll of Velvia 50 at ISO 50 for most of it but maybe a few frames at ISO 40, would a developer be able to process the individual slides accordingly (provided with a list of which frames were which speed)? Sorry if it sounds like a dumb question. Theoretically possible, practically impossible. Slide film is like any other film and is shot and developed as a single strip, it is only cut and mounted after development. You can shoot different frames at different EIs, but they will all be developed to the same specifications.
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Nov 21, 2008 01:15
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pwn posted:Still a little apprehensive about this, some Googling shows that a lot of people like T-max better. Could you please give a brief breakdown of why you prefer Tri-X? The new T-max emulsions have a much more modern look to them, finer grain, and a little less contrasty. Tri-X is a more flexible film, and has a much grittier look. It is simply a matter of taste. However, tri-x is a quality film that can be had for very little money if bought as the rebadged Arista Premium. Try as many films as you can/want to, look at samples of each film, see what you like.
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Nov 22, 2008 12:41
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There's nothing to teach, it's about being sloppy and calling it art.
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Nov 24, 2008 03:53
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Dilution B works just great for Tmax films. It is what almost everyone in my school's photo lab uses, and I've seen some great results from it. Tmax itself isn't to my liking, but if you like rather grainless, full tonal negs, then it's a great combo.
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Nov 30, 2008 00:02
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The Voigtlander RFs are by no means a "poor man's Leica." They are in some ways better than the Leica RFs. They are newer, have more modern feature-sets, and yes, are much, much cheaper.The Leicas are great cameras, but I'd put them closer to equals, just different tradeoffs for each. Some people will tout Leica's supposedly better build quality, but this should not be taken to mean that the Bessas are poorly made. They can take a beating, and feel solid. I have no doubt my Bessa could take a few falls and would keep on ticking. That, and they are made to use ltm/m mount lenses, which are the real draw for most serious Leica users (not collectors). You will be able to choose from all of the Leica catalogue, in addition to the wonderful offerings from Zeiss, Voigtlander (Cosina), Minolta, and many others. Also: Really nice, bright framelines.
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Dec 11, 2008 00:20
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MMD3 posted:which frame do you have? Is there such a thing as an autofocus RF? Unfortunately I've never known anyone with a rangefinder to actually be able to try them out. Since I do primarily concert photography I'd be looking at buying the widest aperture lens I could find, likely a 40mm f/1.4, and realistically I'd be shooting wide open or nearly wide open at most venues I go to. (I suppose that's not the case if I use iso 3200 though). AF Rangefinders do exist, but are not popular. The contax G-series are AF only (except for a neutered MF), and have some astounding lenses, though the AF isn't great. The Nokton 40/1.4 is a great lens, and you should be able to focus it well on any of the Bessas with 50mm framelines. You're going to have to get used to manual focus if you want to move to using an RF for fast motion situations. It's all about practice and knowing how to previsualize. A lot of what I do in fast motion situations is pre-focusing and adjusting blindly to the situation (guessing). But if you know your gear well enough, it often works out quite well. Depending on what you're planning to shoot, an RF might not be the best choice. I wouldn't recommend them for sports or wildlife, for instance, but other fast situations are where they shine (street, journalism). I've seen some great concert photography with Rangefinders, but ymmv.
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Dec 11, 2008 04:16
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