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Thoogsby posted:Can I put Natura 1600 through the X-Ray machine or do I need to have the TSA check it by hand? Get it hand checked just to be safe.
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Mar 9, 2016 22:33
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He says in the post that it's an existing aero stock???
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Mar 23, 2016 04:27
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8th-snype posted:I thought 20s superstar made that vide Nope, pukestain pal, iirc
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Mar 30, 2016 21:50
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v2TAVmqg0Jo
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Apr 28, 2016 08:01
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rocketpig posted:Don't suppose anyone knows of any film photographers who are known for taking photos of shiny metal things with a shallow depth of field? That's... That's not how artistic influence generally works. The chief influence on Nobuyoshi Araki was not Irving Klaw despite the fact that Klaw made photos of women in bondage on film.
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May 18, 2016 21:07
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Helen Highwater posted:I shot a roll of Ektar 100 in my Kiev 88. I got the scans back (my scanner is in a warehouse somewhere in Eastern Europe) and they look like this. I'm surprised no one has commented on this, that is turbofucked. I have absolutely no idea what could have caused this. Do you have a digital camera you could take pictures of the negatives with? Put em in front of a white monitor with the brightness cranked up.
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Jun 10, 2016 04:38
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Paperhouse posted:Out of interest, what would you guys recommend for shooting in low light with a 35mm camera? I'm new to this and so far have only really shot on 200/400 outside, because I'm aware that shooting in poor light is probably going to be poo poo (my ME Super's light meter makes this very obvious, lol). I took a few photos inside a gallery and the shutter speed automatically went so low that I thought it was jammed, though I did actually get a very cool picture out of this by accident. HP5/Tri-X/Portra 400 all shot at 1600+ are your best bets, with the B/W usable to ~3200 depending on light, developed in high concentrate solution like rodinal stand or diafine. To choicecut, yes a GR/RX is a much, much better idea.
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Jun 13, 2016 00:21
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