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I shot a roll of cheapo film to make sure my new camera was in good shape, time to jump down the film rabbit-hole I guess. Is the V500/550 the entry level scanner of choice at the moment? I might invest in a MF camera at some point depending on how I get on so the flexibility to use it for more that 35mm film would be good.
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Jul 28, 2014 14:03
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| # ¿ May 16, 2024 23:33 |
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Developed my second roll of black and white film, turns out I made a balls of the first one, underexposing everything, because the yellow filter I was using reduced the light by more than I thought I did. No worries of that happening again as I dropped it, smashing it in the process. Most of the photos from this roll were overexposed though because I swung too hard in the other direction. Third time's the  
crap nerd fucked around with this message at 21:14 on Nov 5, 2014 |
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Nov 5, 2014 20:56
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I was super stoked about doing a masters at a college with free use of a darkroom and darkroom supplies, shame I have no free time outside of my masters to use it.. or take photos.. or see the outside the postgraduate lab. So here's a photo I took several weeks ago and only got around to scanning now;  Is there any way to prevent Flickr from going nuts with sharpening? On my computer it looks ok but it looks a bit overdone on Flickr.
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Nov 16, 2014 14:50
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I know most people are developing their own black and white film but is anyone making prints or doing other darkroom techniques? I know near the start of the medium/large format thread there was a few people posting tintypes and other stuff. Here's the fruits of spending a couple of hours a week in a darkroom (I posted a scan of the negative in the thread already), good thing I've got free use of the materials so I'm not wasting my own money on my lovely prints.  There's only glossy paper, I've heard people go on about how much better matte fibre papers are but I guess that's not a big deal since I'm still in the "screwing around" phase.
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Dec 1, 2014 20:39
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I burned in the sky and the background a bit, it was an overcast day so there's no detail in the sky is all.
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Dec 1, 2014 21:56
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What do you need to control when you're fixing paper? I thought it didn't matter so long as you didn't under-do it.
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Dec 1, 2014 22:43
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Just got a roll of Ektar developed today that I've had lying around for a while. An airline has just opened up a route offering cheap flights to Iceland from Dublin. I was thinking of going over some time in September. I'd like to bring a medium format camera with me but I don't really fancy lugging my rb67 along with me. I've been eyeing up the Fuji GW690 for a while. For people who have been there; do you think a ~40mm equivalent might be a bit limiting or would it complement Iceland's big open barren landscapes well?
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Jan 20, 2015 21:59
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http://wowair.ie/
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Jan 20, 2015 22:43
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VomitOnLino posted:To be honest, not particularly much, no. I guess because my main shooting style was 1x1 aspect for so long, different orientations is not something that's intrinsic to my shooting. I really like other peoples use of the square format but I always feel like I end up with too much empty space at the top and bottom of the frame myself. Also, for everyone talking of going from Dublin to Iceland, you can get ~€120 return flights to Morocco with Ryan Air where I got by on <€20 a day while travelling about the place if you're looking for cheap holidays to cool places.
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Jan 22, 2015 14:00
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My Olympus XA2 is being all weird. The green "low-light" light is on all the time and whenever I take a photo the shutter stays open for a full two seconds regardless of what the light is like or the ISO settings are. Has anyone any idea what could be up? I got it sent to me from the US to Europe from someone in the buy and sell thread so hopefully it's survived the journey ok.
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Feb 20, 2015 18:16
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Yeah, I put in a pair of fresh SR44 batteries in today.
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Feb 20, 2015 19:12
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DJExile posted:Yeah my bet is something's hosed your meter. If you've got a local service shop I might take it there to see if they can have a look at it. Dang, at this stage I've spent a few quid getting a replacement battery door and I have a working XA as well so I don't really want to sink any more cash into it. I saw someone with a similar problem elsewhere and someone in the comments said it was an easy fix and linked to another site but unfortunately the link is dead, I was hoping someone might have experience with these cameras. I might try opening it up myself and seeing if I can do anything. Edit: found something! My multimeter is dead unfortunately but I'll see if I can do something about it. crap nerd fucked around with this message at 18:09 on Feb 21, 2015 |
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Feb 21, 2015 15:00
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hmmm..... HHMMMMMMM....  HHMMMMNNNGGHHHH  Yeah, that light meter is buried behind way to many intricate bits for me to feel comfortable taking it all apart soldering stuff and putting it back together again, on the bright side I fixed my lovely multimeter.
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Feb 21, 2015 19:35
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burn the heretic
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May 9, 2015 23:51
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I've got some old, freezer stored Ektachrome 100, do I need to make any exposure adjustments for old slide film or is it good to go at box speed?
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Jul 2, 2015 19:37
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ansel autisms posted:How old? Has it always been frozen? Late nineties and yes.
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Jul 3, 2015 00:21
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Has anyone any advice for stand development or links to decent guides on it? I was going to try it tonight after getting some rodinal equivalent stuff but I got lazy. also film changing bags are a pain in the rear end to use compared to just fumbling around in a dark room
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Aug 17, 2015 00:13
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Thanks! If you wanted to push the film slightly would you just do more agitations or use a slightly higher concentration or something?rohan posted:Mix a 1:100 solution of Rodinal and water, put your film in, agitate for the first minute, then go away and drink beers for an hour. Come back and fix as normal. A water stop bath is more than enough. how many beers should i drink for best results, tia
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Aug 17, 2015 12:54
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I got a Nikon F3 but the aperture coupling ring seems to move freely around (without having any effect on what the meter is reading). Has anyone dealt with this before? Is it an easy fix or should I just return it?
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Dec 14, 2015 18:24
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Unfortunately not, living in euroland means either scouring classifieds or dealing with ebay. Buying from KEH would cost a lot between shipping and import duties.
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Dec 14, 2015 18:34
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There's no reason I couldn't put a Nikon F3 HP Finder on any old F3 right?
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Feb 2, 2016 17:22
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Cheers man!
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Feb 2, 2016 21:54
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I just developed some 120 film for the first time in a good while and my technique was to spend about about 20 minutes fumbling around in the changing bag like an idiot.
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Feb 14, 2016 13:05
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What sort of difference could I expect developing with Rodinal or Ilford chemicals rather than Studinol? I got a bunch of it when I got my paterson tank, would I be better off using Rodinal if I want to try out stand development?
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Mar 20, 2016 14:15
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SMERSH Mouth posted:The problem is, I'm using an iPad app as a light pad and the pixel pattern shows up in the photo. I've had to downsize the image somewhat to mask it, to a degree. If you could get a sheet of thin, white material to diffuse the light slightly you might get better results or you could use something to rise you negatives above the screen slightly so the pixels are in soft focus and don't show up.
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Mar 26, 2016 10:59
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On a flatbed scanner (v600) is the actual film scanner in the lid of the unit? I think I've been scanning all my film upside down like an idiot this whole time.
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Nov 27, 2016 13:15
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nothing like shooting a few rolls after not touching a camera for a while and then throwing almost all the photos straight into the loving trash
crap nerd fucked around with this message at 13:23 on May 6, 2017 |
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May 5, 2017 21:00
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 I've been using a little more 35mm recently instead of just medium format, what sort of usable resolution do people usually get out of their 35mm scans? I'm using a V550 and everything usually comes out a bit muddy looking.
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May 20, 2017 12:24
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| # ¿ May 16, 2024 23:33 |
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SMERSH Mouth posted:What's the deal with the Intrepid 4x5? Birch plywood treated with teak oil ought to hold up nicely and can be milled to adequate spec, but considering the whole thing I wonder how precisely an average human can zero the front, compared to a Linhof or Chamonix. I got one of the first models but haven't used it a ton, the newer ones look a bit sturdier and more compact around the front standard. The screw that locks the front standard facing forward was slightly off-angle and the focusing mechanism wasn't the smoothest. The ground glass is a bit dim as there's no fresnel screen on it but you could replace that. There's small screws on the rear standard which (should?) let you remove the rear bellows giving you access to the bungees but it might be worth messaging them to find out.
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May 29, 2017 21:06
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