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eggsovereasy
May 6, 2011

Clayton Bigsby posted:

Well, something should be moving so that part's alright then. Basically it's a hole / group of holes that gradually block off light to the CdS cell to compensate for the ISO change.

Does it underexpose consistently, and approx by how much?

Yeah I shot a roll and it was fine at the beginning and by the end it looked maybe about 2 or 3 stops under. So I thought it was the batteries fading, so I put new batteries in and then shot another roll and the entire roll was under except shots with the flash looked ok.

Also every once in a while the shutter release just doesn't work. Like the battery check thing works the lights in the viewfinder works, but the button just doesn't go. So it's got problems.

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eggsovereasy
May 6, 2011

Clayton Bigsby posted:

The shutter button is a pretty common problem area on the XA models. Easy to address though:
https://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=137072

The underexposure is weird. Most problems I can think of (aperture not stopping down fast enough, shutter dragging) would lead to overexposure.

I wonder if a capacitor or something is at the end of its life and there isn't enough power to keep the shutter open.

eggsovereasy
May 6, 2011

Clayton Bigsby posted:

I think the XA basically charges a capacitor via the CdS and once charged the shutter closes. Wouldn't a leaky cap just be slower to charge and cause longer shutter times = overexposure?

I don't know, we're way outside my wheelhouse... just wildly speculating.

eggsovereasy
May 6, 2011

The LabBox seems really expensive to me. I don't really know what it gets me that traditional tanks and reels don't, maybe someone else has better insight on that. Anyway, it's cheaper to just buy an old style stainless steel or plastic tank and reels. I like stainless steel more, but others like plastic. You can also buy bigger tanks and more reels so you can do more rolls at once which can be a big time saver.

eggsovereasy
May 6, 2011

Bronicas are flying under the radar, buy em up.

eggsovereasy
May 6, 2011

Rated PG-34 posted:

wow 190 bux

I've done a little research and it turns out photography is an expensive hobby

eggsovereasy
May 6, 2011

rockear posted:

Is Rodinal the best developer for shelf life? I've been using D76 and liking the results but I shoot and develop pretty sporadically and I end up wasting quite a bit because it sits for a long time between uses. What might be the best / most economical Dev/Stop/Fix combo for that scenario? I shoot mostly FP4+ and HP5 if that matters.

both rodinal and hc110 will last forever and are very economical (especially if you use dil h for hc110). just use a water stop bath and whatever rapid fixer (i use the ilford one because my local store has it) and it comes out very cheap per roll.


polyester concept posted:

i have a bottle of ilfotec hc that's kept for almost a decade now and still gives consistent results. 1L of concentrate is about $70 and you only use about 6-9 mL per roll of film if you are using a paterson tank, depending on the dilution you want

i think ilfotec hc is the same thing as hc110 for twice the price (at least in the us, don't know about elsewhere)

eggsovereasy
May 6, 2011

dupersaurus posted:

How are the Plustek 8X00s for scanning?

Edit: or the V600?

i have an 8200i and its great, you have to sit by it and advance each frame which kind of sucks, but the quality is good and i just watch a tv show while doing it. obviously you can only do 35mm with it.

v600 is a good option if you need to scan medium format, but if all you shoot is 35mm the plustek is significantly better. i have a v700 for mf/lf and the plustek for 35mm because its so much better for 35mm.

eggsovereasy
May 6, 2011

theHUNGERian posted:

Apologies in advance for a noobish post. I forced myself to stop using a metered prism a while ago as it would allow me to either travel lighter or pack an extra lens + back. Also, I just love the WLF of the RZ67 (and my GW690 doesn't have a meter LOL). This forced me to use an external light meter (Sekonic 608), which I have been enjoying so far as it's light as hell. My initial experiments with just an incident meter (place meter at subject, extend dome, point toward lens) were a mixed bag, so I switched to using the spot meter. The results were better, but still not perfect, especially in situations where there is a high dynamic range.

As I am reading "Beyond the Zone System", I think I found my mistake. My metering technique for high dynamic range situations is: Measure the highlights I care about and the shadows I care about, take an average -> exposure value.

I think the mistake is that the light meter expects middle gray to be at 18%, but in a film with 9 stops of dynamic range, middle gray is at 6.25%, 1.5 stops darker than what the light meter is expecting. So in this hypothetical situation with 9 stops of dynamic range in the scene (and assuming the film can accommodate it), I should measure highlight/shadow and average as before, but then underexpose by 1.5 stops to place that exposure value at 6.25%, right?

i don't know anything about grey %s, but i just put the incident meter in the same light as my subject and do whatever it tells me. for spot metering my meter (sekonic l558 i think?) has an average function built in so i just meter a bright area and a shadow area and hit the average button, looking at a picture of your meter it has that average button too.

eggsovereasy
May 6, 2011

some people do rotary processing and reduce the dev time, not sure what effect that ends up having on the contrast of the image though. i'd guess it would increase contrast and hurt shadow detail, but i've never done it

eggsovereasy
May 6, 2011

Megabound posted:

I'm more interested in their Double-X in 120 but not for those prices.

yeah same, costs too much, like 50% more than tmax 400 which is already on the high end.

eggsovereasy
May 6, 2011

theHUNGERian posted:

Thanks. I too like "Banged up dumpster with bird poo poo accent".

What are people's final rinse tricks? I had too much PhotoFlo last time, so I reduced it (3 drops into 1 liter of water), which made the foaming/bubbling go away, but I still end up with water spots that don't bead off, so they just stay on the film and leave spots (even though I used distilled water). Is it worthwhile to submerse the film in water and slowly pull it out so no water drops form on the film surface?

i just squirt photoflo in, but its definitely more than 3 drops. after agitating i flick the poo poo out of the reel to try and knock the water off, then hang to dry

eggsovereasy
May 6, 2011

vuescan can do the ir dust removal on raw scans and silverfast can't for some reason, maybe if i gave them more money it can. also, vuescan nicely increments files names so i can enter 22-m4-001-01+.dng into the filename and then it just pumps out files like

22-m4-001-01.dng
22-m4-001-02.dng
22-m4-001-03.dng
etc

but silverfast is stupid and does

22-m4-001-01.dng
22-m4-001-01 (1).dng
22-m4-001-01 (2).dng

having to buy a different (expensive) license for reach scanner is lame as poo poo, lots of scanners come with one for free though so thats nice.


nlp does seem to give nicer results with silverfast though.

eggsovereasy fucked around with this message at 22:00 on May 23, 2022

eggsovereasy
May 6, 2011

i think 8 does it for batch scans, but can't batch in a plustek

eggsovereasy
May 6, 2011

LimaBiker posted:

Seriously? I've been buying superia and velvia pretty recently. I knowna bunch were discontinued in the last 5 years but afaik they're still in business

Rumor is they stopped manufacturing it years ago, scrapped the equipment and have just been cutting down and selling off old deep frozen master rolls then “discontinuing” it as they get low on stock. I’ve not seen anything to make me believe that’s not true and the fact that new acros is made in the UK (probably by ilford) and that the new Fuji color 200 is made in the US with the same data sheet as Gold 200 makes me think that it is true.

eggsovereasy
May 6, 2011

I have a G2, it’s a great camera. nippon photoclinic in nyc can repair and adjust Contax gs. They fixed mine a few years back when it had some circuit board failing.

eggsovereasy
May 6, 2011

The Yashica D is a good TLR that isn't too expensive. I like that the focus and advance are on the same side of the camera so you don't have to juggle it between your hands like a rolleiflex.

I have a Bronica SQ-Ai + lenses and other poo poo I want to get rid of, if you're interested I could figure out a price and post in the buy/sell thread.

eggsovereasy
May 6, 2011

eggsovereasy
May 6, 2011

this is the only legal way to shoot a nazi

eggsovereasy
May 6, 2011

people say that every year when kodak announces price increases and popularity just keeps rising

eggsovereasy
May 6, 2011


this shot has a very nice contrast

eggsovereasy
May 6, 2011

hp5 is very forgiving, so i'd follow megabound's advice

eggsovereasy
May 6, 2011

LimaBiker posted:

Side note: i do not recommend Rodinal for hp5. I recommend it for many films, but not hp5.

i've seen this sentiment a lot and i'm more of an hc110 guy, but i've not had problems with hp5 and rodinal

Jesus

Career Apparel

Raccoon

eggsovereasy
May 6, 2011

theHUNGERian posted:

What's the group think about mailing film in order to avoid it getting x-rayed at the airport?

I'll be in Alaska in a few weeks, and I have a source to buy the film there. But I would still have to bring the exposed film back to my home (CA) so I can develop it myself. I don't mind if it takes forever to reach me, I just do not want it to get x-rayed. Is there a certain carrier or shipping method I should use/avoid?

i mailed my film back from ireland when i was there because i read the dublin airport had the new type of xray that wrecks film. they did not have the new type, but my film came in the mail fine with no issues.

i too have never had an issue asking for handcheck in on domestic flights though

eggsovereasy
May 6, 2011

I sold my G2 earlier this year. The camera was great and the lenses are fantastic, but it was too big a liability if it breaks.

eggsovereasy
May 6, 2011

I never had autofocus issues fwiw, but I’ve never used a digital camera with what’s considered ‘good’ autofocus.

eggsovereasy
May 6, 2011

Blackhawk posted:

I don't know what cameras cost anymore but when I was looking for a rangefinder I ended up with a Voigtlander Bessa R3A

$1200+ us, which seems nuts to me. its a nice camera, but you're in Leica M3/M2/M4 territory for that price if ebay sold listings are any indication and that's no contest imo.

eggsovereasy
May 6, 2011

HorribleAvatar posted:

I have a photo buddy that shoots 4x5 landscapes on occasion and he says it's not too bad if you know how and what to pack. Too much for me.

A well thought out 4x5 kit would likely weigh less than than many medium format system, but 35mm is def the king of small and light especially rangefinders.

eggsovereasy
May 6, 2011

Havana Affair posted:

It only has three sliders for adjustments in b&w: exposure, contrast and brightness. I don't think you can adjust shadows and highlights independently or at least the logic isn't clear to me. I sometimes like the simple design but as you point out something like that is trivial in any other software.

i haven't used silverfast in a long time, but i'm pretty sure it has a cuves tool

eggsovereasy
May 6, 2011

I always used hc110 with tmax 400, dilution h for 9 minutes at 24c

eggsovereasy
May 6, 2011

Keeps the dev time down, I think it might also increase grain, but grain isn’t a big deal with tmy, especially in 120

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eggsovereasy
May 6, 2011

same as the ghost of mr marley

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