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I shot a few rolls of 10 year old nph400 at 100-150 and it still had an enormous blue or red cast. Lots of color work needed to make it work. Once tweaked it was still not as neutral or clean as clean as brand new superia 400
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Jul 20, 2016 02:20
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| # ¿ May 12, 2024 11:48 |
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Developing b&w at home sounds a lot more intimidating than it actually is. Just stick to a single type of film and a single type of developer. Don't go nuts with the developers. The massive dev chart is your best friend, and I also like an app called develop! that times all of your stuff and also lets you make your own recipes.
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Jul 31, 2016 04:13
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You could always ship chemicals in powder form
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Aug 19, 2016 21:20
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How are you scanning? What software are you using? What are your settings? I'm assuming you are using an epson flatbed like 100% of people here, so either use epson scan or silverfast, and scan it as a positive, with all corrections and dust removal off. You can do that step later. Make sure you are using 48 bit color (16 bit per channel). What you will get is something that looks exactly like a negative. Try working from there.
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Sep 30, 2016 05:21
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How to go from a scanned positive to a negative: 1) in photoshop, press cmd i 2)
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Sep 30, 2016 22:28
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 Screen Shot 2016-11-09 at 8.30.39 PM by Ryan Chan, on Flickr
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Nov 10, 2016 05:59
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Having some issues with developing/scanning/??? Some of my negatives have these lines right through them; they are a consistant pattern, along the length of the film. Not always though, and they're not always on adjacent frames. Sometimes they are light, sometimes they are dark. They have showed up on two separate rolls of film, one fp4 125 and one tri-x400. Hasselblad 500cm, shooting that fp4 and tri-x. Both of these are developed in D76 1:1, fixed with (very old) ilford rapidfix (which has since been replaced). both of these are from the roll of fp4.   and neither can be seen on the negative even with light and magnification. On the FP4 roll, it shows up on 3 frames that aren't sequential. On the roll of Tri-X, I can see it without light or magnification. But it only appears on two frames, both in the middle of that roll. Wild EEPROM fucked around with this message at 08:55 on Nov 21, 2016 |
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Nov 21, 2016 08:38
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The latter, also they like to talk about souping their film and they also sell things on forums and then remove the price after it's sold.
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Feb 1, 2017 07:49
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It's a real good deal, if everything works. 500cm bodies are about 500 each alone. 220 backs are cheap because nobody makes 220 film anymore, but 120 backs are still closer to $150. basically you could buy that, separate it into two full setups, and sell one to pay for the other. you'll definitely need a handheld lightmeter as well.
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Feb 13, 2017 23:47
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Lemme know if you want to sell the 150mm or one of the a12 120 backs 
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Feb 14, 2017 06:26
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Shoot slide
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Mar 2, 2017 02:43
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natura is approximately a thousand times better.
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Mar 11, 2017 20:21
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underage at the vape shop posted:So in June theres going to be a camera fair in Brisbane, with loads of poo poo for sale. I figure it's a pretty good opportunity to get a cool 35mm camera, maybe a medium format, and make some money. I think I should probably start tracking prices now to have a good idea on the day, but I don't really know what I'm looking for. nobody is buying leica r and leica cl's nobody is buying mamiya 645 either you won't find any real good deals, but if you're into big cheap piles of broken things or boxes full of cloudy uv filters then you're set.
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Mar 15, 2017 04:27
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It'll flatten out a bit after it is a bit dryer, but it's best to weigh it down inside a heavy book for a few days first.
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Mar 21, 2017 01:43
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To get the film out of the slot, get another piece of film, put a small piece of double sided tape on it, jam it into the slot, and rewind the film until it catches. Then pull it out.
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Apr 2, 2017 19:12
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Have you considered other dev Chems for b&w, there are tons to choose from outside the regular rodinal, d76, and hc110
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Apr 10, 2017 22:10
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SMERSH Mouth posted:I never considered that. FP4 to me seems kind of like smoother HP5. If it pushes as well, I guess it could be worth a shot? FP4+2 is not that smooth. It has a lot more contrast though:  huevos by Ryan Chan, on Flickr cauliflower by Ryan Chan, on Flickrthese two are FP4 at 500, I can't remember if it's D76 1:1 or Rodinal 1:24 that I used. And FP4 at 125 (box), D76 1:1  Screen Shot 2016-11-30 at 8.36.16 PM by Ryan Chan, on FlickrA fair amount of contrast added on that one.
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May 8, 2017 09:49
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Wild EEPROM fucked around with this message at 04:31 on May 21, 2017 |
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May 21, 2017 04:29
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look on the bright side, you could have spent $600 on a contax t2 and then have it broken down and been unable to get any repairs for it.
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May 26, 2017 07:04
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The big thing is that the v800 can scan 4x5. With the 600 you have to stitch. And the film holders hold a lot more. Iirc the v800 comes with silverfast which is the best scanning software ever made.
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Jun 13, 2017 02:01
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yes, that's the dmax for you. V800 dmax is 4, and the v550/600 claims 3.4. Optical quality on the V800 is better as well, and has a higher actual DPI. Basically the only reason to buy the v550/600 over the v800 is money.
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Jun 13, 2017 05:16
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 i get mine in a psd
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Jul 19, 2017 06:20
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Leicas are cool but the most solid feeling camera is not a Leica.
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Aug 8, 2017 23:02
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Get a piece of film, put a piece of double sided tape on it, jam it in, turn the film winding thing and then pull hard.
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Aug 14, 2017 17:12
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I saw a seller whose grades are New in box 100% Like new in box 95% Mint+ 90% Mint 85% Mint- 80% EXC+++ 75% EXC++ 70% EXC+ 65% EXC 60% AS-IS 50% motherfucker, "EXC" is not 60%. 60% is barely a C.
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Aug 28, 2017 03:52
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Since then there's also buyfilm.ca. Dunno how they are but they sell film in Canada.
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Sep 21, 2017 02:41
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Don’t worry my 24 2.8 has a huge blotch in the middle of the image that looks like you smudged the film. Every single frame.
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Oct 14, 2017 06:39
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Can’t help you on the first question (but I’m sure there are tons of east coast places which charge a similar price) As for the second, it’s best to scan as a positive and adjust it in post. You learn to sort through things really fast.
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Jan 13, 2018 23:55
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because it's good + cool
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Feb 11, 2018 10:25
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8th-snype posted:Too bad Tmax is trash. F t f y
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Feb 22, 2018 02:49
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when you buy your tank, make sure you buy at least the 3x35mm tank. Otherwise, when you get into 120 film, you can only do 1 roll at a time.
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Mar 27, 2018 05:51
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I love slide film more than the average person but when it comes down to it portra is the most advanced color film ever devised
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Apr 5, 2018 02:06
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 sup film thread
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Apr 15, 2018 02:43
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Also the focus point of the scanner isn't necessarily there. If you have a holder then you've still got a lot of work tweaking and tuning the exact height before it is spot on.
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Jul 23, 2018 04:04
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Let Me Tell You About My New Scanner
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Jul 26, 2018 02:01
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Dudeabides posted:Please. Do. i bought a bomb rear end nikon coolscan 8000. the scan quality is unbelievable. the dynamic range and sharpness is next level.
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Jul 26, 2018 14:11
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NihilismNow posted:What did you pay for it? They go for $1500+ here. Which is quite a lot for a 15 year old piece of technology that might break any day. i did not pay anywhere near $1500 but that's a lot more luck. It's exceptionally complicated and difficult. It only takes firewire, and official support is only up to osx 10.1. the alternatives to nikonscan are vuescan (painful interface), and silverfast (499€) the film holders are just as expensive. the scans take a looong time as well. The quality is also insane. absolutely smokes the epson that I had before.
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Jul 29, 2018 02:30
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Have you looked at the negs with a loupe When you load the film do you hold the nearly full roll while you advance the take up?
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Oct 9, 2018 20:18
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welcome to the coolscan club
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Oct 12, 2018 04:30
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| # ¿ May 12, 2024 11:48 |
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it's a big ugly plastic camera that doesn't look good as an accessory. nobody buys it so nobody else buys it so the cycle continues.
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Oct 28, 2018 05:15
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