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Dudeabides posted:Please. Do. I had a Kiev 60, had frame spacing issues, but the lenses were  bang for buck compared to other MF systems, especially dat fisheye. I have a 500C/M kit now, but I'd by lying if I said I wouldn't be tempted to trade it for an Arax (or other known good body) and a bunch of glass.
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Jul 29, 2018 12:39
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Blackhawk posted:I think opinions vary wildly about DSLR scanning, mostly because it depends what you have and what you want to do. I've only ever used DSLR scanning but I've read/watched a bit about flatbed scanning too and my comments are as follows: This is pretty comprehensive. My two cents FWIW: I set one up at my old job; we had a lot of 35mm E-6 to digitise but it took forever to scan with the V700s we had (boss had to pay employees hourly, so "set and forget" not really an advantage, even when alternating between two scanners/machines). To streamline it, I bought an old slide duplicator - this makes loading the next slide much less fiddly than with a DIY holder. For the camera, I bought a cheap 3 way macro rail on eBay, which makes it much easier to get the camera in the correct initial position and fine-tune the focus (the 5D2 was also used for other duties so it couldn't be left there full time). For a lens we used an old manual focus macro with a 1:1 tube, on an adapter. We used a regular light bulb for the backlight - the slide duplicator had a diffusion panel integrated into it. Shot tethered, which allows you to check focus on the computer screen as well as use spacebar to take the shot. It worked brilliantly, I think I clocked it at like an 85% increase in productivity vs the flatbed. But it's a fairly narrow use case (35mm slides in good condition) - as Blackhawk has said, you don't get Digital ICE for dust/scratches, and getting the colours right with C41 is a PITA. Megabound posted:Hey guys. I'm looking at getting an enlarger and have found a Durst M700 with a CLS 70 colour condenser head for cheap with a modular negative carrier that does up to 6x9, it's got Setbox 66 condenser in and I've asked after the lens. Only issue is I have no idea what most of those words mean. Would this be suitable for black and white with that colour head, and would I need to change anything about the setup to do 6x9, what else should I be on the lookout for? Sorry about the vagueness as I don't know what I don't know about enlargers. I am just getting in to the world of darkrooms myself, so take this with a grain of salt. From what I've read colour heads can print B&W: some people like the process/setup like that, some don't. If it has a modular neg carrier that goes up to 6x9 don't see why it wouldn't print 6x9. Make sure the condensor has all of the lenses. Check the bulb for the enlarger as I've increased my setup's cost to me by 50% buying one with a dead bulb  Don't be too fussed about the lens (but do use it to negotiate on price if it's a cheaper brand) - if you are just starting out you'll probably make lots of mistakes, and even the "bad" ones are still going to probably look fine at 8x10. It is tempting to go out and buy a top of the line lens because they can be had for pennies on the dollar these days, but the advice I read was to just use whatever came with your enlarger (barring any serious flaws like haze or fungus) and wait for a stonkin' deal to come along on a nice one, assuming you've stuck with wet printing. You do want to be sure it's the right focal length for what you intend to print - probably 105mm for 6x9? Ethics_Gradient fucked around with this message at 04:01 on Apr 22, 2020 |
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Apr 22, 2020 03:58
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MadlabsRobot posted:The scanning thread is locked so I'll ask this here instead. Buy a macro setup for the slides - a cheap eBay macro rail to dial it in, something to use to mount the slide (an old slide copier is best, if you can find one cheap), and an old manual macro on an adapter shouldn't be too bad. Once set up it's much faster than a scanner and IMO offers better quality than most flatbeds. Scanning 35mm negs is my own personal idea of hell, but I'd probably say power through them on the V500 for "good enough" social media quality stuff while watching Netflix or whatever, and send off any real gems to get professionally scanned. I was never happy with trying to photograph and then colour correct negatives but my appetite for the finer points of post processing is probably not all that great.
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Jun 19, 2021 00:29
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Curious what anyone's experience with the Cinestill C-41 kit is. It's a two-part, powder developer. I tried a Tenetal C-41 kit (6 part, liquid) back when I lived in Japan and it didn't go well - had a bathtub to try and keep temperatures stable but the results were "mixed" at best - lots of weird stains, etc on the film, though some shots came out OK. Now that I'm back in Australia (and nearly a decade has passed) I'm looking at AU$12.50/shot for a lab to do 4x5 C-41, which is... a lot. I'd be willing to attempt the Tenetal kit again now that I've got a sous vide setup that could be adapted, but if there's an easier option that gets good results I'd definitely be interested. It seems almost too good to be true, but I've read two reviews so far that are pretty positive on it. Cacator posted:Edit: Hmm, now that I think about it there's the possibility that when loading it into the tank I missed the little spool that the reels wrap around and I had to open it back up to put it back in. I may have turned on the lights when the funnel was attached, but the cover was not......... although I don't know if that explains the clear delineation between the exposed part of the roll and the unexposed part. I guess if the exposed film is opaque then that would block any more light passing through to the rest of the roll. Goddamnit, amateur mistake. That may well be it. I don't have my negs with me to check, but I think I remember getting something similar when I forgot to put the light trap into my Paterson tank. If it makes you feel better, it was my test roll for an eBay 6x6 Super Ikonta so I wound up returning it for a refund - only realised my error well afterwards and would have loved to have kept the camera 
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Jun 27, 2021 11:11
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Megabound posted:Could be both, these problems do happen. It uses centre weighted metering so whatever is in the centre of frame it's going to try and place it at the middle of your exposure. If you're pointing at the brightest part of your scene everything else will be underexposed and vice-versa. In that situation switch it to manual or use the exposure compensation dial. I was about to say "$270 is a lot!" but doing the maths its only ~21 sheets of 4x5 until I hit the break even point. Do you have a Jobo or do you agitate by hand? I don't know whether my previous results were sloppy agitation technique or sloppy temperature control (or both). King of Bees posted:We've been using the cinestill powder kit for a year and a half now with a labbox and a epson v600 and have no complaints except user errors. Aside from the negs being a little dustier than the ones from our local photo lab there wasnt any dif in the final product and we save a ton of money. Id say we've done about 100-125 rolls (my wife started an mfa during covid so lots of shooting) in the last year, mainly 120 portas but also a lot of various 135. We probably get about 20-25 rolls per kit. They also make a liquid kit but the shipping is ridiculous. During peak covid the kits got really scarce so we bought two at a time. Anyways we've had success with it That's awesome to hear! It seems to be OOS here in Australia (and most places in the US) but Freestyle seems to think they'll have them back by the end of the week, will have to see what international shipping runs me. I had no idea the Labbox exists - interesting device and I'd have definitely been interested in one back when I shot more with my Hasselblad.
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Jun 28, 2021 09:47
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trashy owl posted:Godspeed, Velvia 100. Thanks, Obama 
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Jul 7, 2021 10:35
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bellows lugosi posted:portra 800 is an older generation of portra, it's inherently inferior to 400 I'll bet you like Acros II better than the original 
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Jul 22, 2021 08:44
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Yesterday I picked up my 500C/M after a very long time so I could finish off a roll. I had just finished doing a wet plate shoot at the same location and I was blown away by the speed, simplicity, and convenience of the thing. It was like reverse culture shock   I poked my head in at the tip shop on a whim today and was rewarded with a Durst 6x7 enlarger with a minty EL-Nikkor 50mm f/2.8, 6x6 condensor, and 6x6 neg carrier. Pretty excited - was hoping to get my darkroom closer to completion (maybe even try a test print or two) but my old Meopta didn't have a condenser or neg carrier. I know I could make the latter, but was resigned to paying eBay prices for the former. The downside is the Durst is just a liiitle too tall for my closet/darkroom. I may be able to extend the ceiling; there's a sheet of MDF screwed in right above my current enlarger setup that leads to the attic where the wood stove flue used to be - if the hole underneath is wide enough I can build an extension without any major dramas. (I was already planning on removing it so I could replace it with one I'd cut a hole in for a ventillation fan/duct. Otherwise I'll have to take an angle grinder to the last 15cm or so of the column, which feels very wrong, even if I'm not planning on any huge prints.  Was feeling lucky (and had an hour to kill before I picked my partner up from work) so I stopped in at the one across town and found a bunch of paper plus this ancient FP4 in 5x7. Me, making smalltalk at the register: "Just hope nobody's opened this yet!" Guy at register: *quickly grabs the lid off the FP4 and yanks it off before I can say or do anything* "Oh yeah, looks like nobody's been in there" I still bought it anyways since $2.20 is like, a can of Coke and it may even still be good (think it was still inside the black bag from the glimpse I had of it). I don't actually have a 5x7 camera though.
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Sep 30, 2021 08:33
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Megabound posted:Very nice, I really like my Durst M700. They're worth taking apart and giving a good clean but beware, the Italians were allergic to using the same sized screw twice so keep good track of where everything goes. The film story has strong "Selling unused paper with a photo of the paper out of the box" energy. Good to know - I have an incomplete 6x9 Durst in the shed as well that may now get turned into another DIY project. The guy at the register was some Zoomer who didn't know any better (or read the box), I still couldn't believe it though. I think actually worth it just for the laugh I had when I got out to the car. Cacator posted:Anyone have an OpticFilm scanner for 35mm and could recommend it? I have an Epson V550 which works fine for 120 but 35mm looks gross and it's bad enough that it discourages me from shooting more 35mm. If you're doing slide or B&W, it's not hard to set up a DSLR/mirrorless digitisation rig and you can get some really good results for around a hundred bucks or so: Micro-Nikkor + adapter, cheap eBay macro rail, and set up the stage out of wood/cardboard (or a slide copier if you're feeling fancy).
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Sep 30, 2021 22:29
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Flyndre posted:Yikes a Hasselblad 500CM in nice condition is out for a decent price on my local market place (for the second time in fact, and I regretted not hitting it the first time) I picked up my 500C/M for a roadtrip over the last few days, and after 6 months of doing large format wet plate collodion I was bowled over with what a simple and seamless photo taking tool it is. I've only run a handful of rolls through it over the last ~7 years or so and was thinking of selling it, now I'm looking at adding a 150mm Sonnar to my kit. I've decided to hold off and maybe save it as a reward for after I've done my first print; got everything together for a darkroom + the next few weeks off work, so want to see how I enjoy that process before I commit more resources to it. I do like the look from doing wet plate (not to mention the immediate feedback), and the challenge is part of the enjoyment I get out of it, but having something more... portable would definitely be nice for other situations. I have a V750 that I've almost got working (need to finish dialing in my BetterScanning holder, and pony up for Silverfast), but I was pretty happy with a V500 for a long time before that. Many people are also happy with using a DSLR or mirrorless to digitise their 120. Neither solution should break the bank; I do recommend getting some way to digitise them early on as lab scans can really add up quickly. B&W is cheap and easy to develop at home, and I've heard good things about the 2-bath C-41 kits. The nice thing about a Hasselblad (or just about any film camera these days) is that they hold their value reasonably well. As long as you get an OK deal on it and it's not broken, you aren't really risking too much financially.
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Jan 5, 2022 07:18
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Developed my roll of Delta 100 this morning, looks like two light leaks on the last two shots (extend into the borders). Guessing this is from not winding it tight enough onto the take up spool?VelociBacon posted:All my shots are scanned with a v550 and it works fine too. The real lovely thing about epson is the software not the hardware. I always found Epson Scan a pain to get working on a new OS, and it just flat out quit recognising my GT-X970 (V750) this last time. Silverfast OTOH wrote a driver that ~*just works*~ on Win10 so going to stump up for the full version.
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Jan 6, 2022 01:38
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Just be like me and Sludge_Tank and shoot wet plate. Break free from the shackles of "film", "consistency", and "ease of use".Paul MaudDib posted:the year is 2032. e-6 and c-41 development has been outlawed. got a good lol outta me I have one remaining roll of OG Acros 100 in 120 and IDK if I'll ever figure out what I'm gonna shoot with it. The II looks OK and I'll probably order some soon, but in the side-by-side comparisons I've seen I've always preferred the original Megabound posted:Sounds like it, unload in subdued light. Whenever I unload I either do it at home if I'm not shooting more or I put the shot roll in the packaging of the new roll just for safety I was pretty much in direct afternoon sun, didn't even need to unload it there but figured why not. In a way I'm not that bothered; I can always go back and re-shoot (it's several hours drive away, but I'm sure I'll be up that way again) and I've learned a lesson. I've also got the Ektar 100 versions I shot, whenever I get around to developing them.
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Jan 7, 2022 06:46
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Megabound posted:Kiev-60s are good so long as you get a good one. They're the best P6 mount body for sure and those lenses are also great. The giant SLR form factor is kinda fun, although I'd probably rather a good 88 than a good 60 for the interchangeable film backs. I had a 60 briefly, it came with the 80mm and Arsat fisheye (and some pretty bad frame spacing issues). Glass was great though.
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Mar 16, 2022 08:11
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Any good YouTube series to recommend for scanning (specifically with VueScan)? I have been shooting film for *checks notes* going on 15 years, have scanned my own stuff for a lot of that, but have generally been pretty lazy and let Epson Scan's auto settings do a lot of the heavy lifting. Today I finally gave in and ponied up for VueScan (my GT-X970 has been gathering dust for literally years since Epson's drivers quit working) and am pulling my hair out just trying to do something as basic as "scan three frames". I also realise I need to understand more about colour correction, etc.
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May 22, 2022 07:58
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Vuescan kinda sucks. Yeah, best I can tell it was literally my only option. Every time I changed computers/OS's over the years it became more and more of a battle to get Windows (and by extension, Epson Scan) to recognise the scanner, I've finally had to concede defeat. For some reason the two dudes who run VueScan can write a working driver but Epson can't 
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May 22, 2022 08:53
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I'm forever salty about Foma 400 because I remember when Arista EDU 400 was Tri-X  I did get two rolls of Foma 200 in a bulk buy from someone that sold their MF camera locally, will try rating at 125.
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Jun 3, 2022 11:28
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In Hasselblad news, I just missed out on a 150mm Sonnar (the CF version) on eBay an hour ago. My bid of AUD$420.69 wasn't quite enough, sadly. There's a regular T* in good nick for about that much which I may get around to buying, but kinda tempted to put it off until I go to Japan later this year since the yen is in the toilet. Speaking of Japan, anyone want to talk me out of a Canon 7? I had around AU$200 in the budget for something new to shoot film with, and was originally looking for a 6x9 folder like a Moskva-5, but kinda decided against it since I don't have any of the accessories I need to actually run my 6x9 enlarger. On the other hand, I have a bunch of LTM lenses leftover from when I had an R3a (had a look at prices on buying another one of those and  ) that have been gathering dust since I switched to Fuji and bought some of the very nice X-mount primes. I was originally looking at Zorki's even though I remember not being very impressed with the Zorki 4 I had as a secondary body, then remembered the Canon RF's exist. I had a Canon P very briefly and remember being pretty impressed with the quality and brightness/size of the finder.
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Jun 5, 2022 10:33
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Wild EEPROM posted:yeah put it off until you get to japan. Australian dollars but yeah, Hasselblads have definitely been caught up in the most recent film rennaisance (I was astounded at what the R3a is selling for now, I think I paid/sold mine for less than US$500). It was pretty much mint to be fair. Are the CF's really worth it? The main difference I've seen is the Prontor shutter, but I've not had any issues with my older Compur shutter lenses.
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Jun 7, 2022 08:01
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I got the go-ahead from the Melbourne consulate to apply for a visitor visa, which I sent away for on Friday, so getting pretty excited the trip. I'm seriously thinking about leaving my X-H1 kit at home and just bringing the Hasselblad and X100F. I was gonna just go browse the used camera shops (I mean, I still am) but have spent the entirety of my Sunday morning trawling Yahoo Auctions via Buyee and contemplating some barely-justifiable purchasing decisions. alkanphel posted:I think they're optically the same so it's really more of how you feel about using them. Also I think the CFs are easier to repair and they're newer so the parts shouldn't break down so fast. Ah, gotcha. I've got all non CF glass (well, my 80mm and 50mm are the older ones) so I was leaning towards keeping them the same, probably go with whatever's convenient. Ethics_Gradient fucked around with this message at 03:35 on Jun 12, 2022 |
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Jun 12, 2022 03:31
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Finally notched my first win on Yahoo! Auctions (a minty 250mm Sonnar for 2man, love me a long lens for landscapes). I'd forgotten about the whole "last minue bids extend the auction by 5-10 minutes" thing, I really hope eBay never figures that out. I got in a bidding war with someone over a Canon 7 bundle and ultimately conceded defeat after adding another hundred bucks or so to the pricetag for him. I think I am going to more seriously go after one though; it's basically either sell my LTM glass or buy another LTM or M-mount camera, and I can't really think of anything that represents better value for money than the 7. Anyways, here are some very fun, weird niche cameras I've come across:  The Fuji Cardia Rensha takes 16 images, originally marketed to golfers for studying and improving on their swing. These things seem to start at $200 which is a bit much for a gimmick camera.  The Fuji Work Record, a weatherproof and ruggidised camera that foreman would carry around construction sites to... record work. I might actually buy one of these because they're less than thirty bucks, might be fun to throw a big strap on and have dangling off me on the motorbike for snaps.  This goofy 6x9 SLR with interchangable lenses. Admittedly not that weird, I'm actually bidding on this one. I eventually want another 4x5 Graflex SLR for doing collodion portraits, but will probably wait until my next trip to the States to shop for one of those. carticket posted:So, been a while since I posted here. Don't have a dark room setup in the (not quite so new anymore) house, but I'm finishing a room in the basement and did see that one of my Sprint concentrate bottles developed a leak and there's now a very crystalline thing on the concrete floor. I think it is the Speed Fixer. Any ideas on how to go about cleaning up? The official MSDS seems to assume liquid spillage. Not sure about that specific one, but fixer is generally not terrible stuff*, I'd probably hit it with some hot water to dissolve it and then follow the liquid spillage instructions. *unless you're one of those psychopaths who fix their collodion plates with potassium cyanide Ethics_Gradient fucked around with this message at 22:37 on Jun 17, 2022 |
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Jun 17, 2022 22:35
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Megabound posted:I own one of these, it's currently under repair. The goofiest things are the back rolls on the film backwards, with the black side of the backing paper facing out, and it has a tensioning system for the mirror return that you need to adjust when you shoot horizontal vs vertical. The lenses are also uncoupled from the shutter system so you need to compose, stop down and then shoot. Oh, nice! There seems to be relatively little about them online, what sort of issues was yours having? That is very weird (and annoying) about the mirror tension, I was already a little bit unhappy with the lack of a rotating back, but I guess it's not the end of the world. Graflex did make a 2x3 version of their SLR, but I didn't want to deal with having to find a rollfilm back to fit it (or shimming my own). I think there's a lot of fun to be had with a 6x9 SLR adapting weird barrel lenses that don't quite cover 4x5!
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Jun 17, 2022 23:27
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I stumbled across a thread on LFF a few days ago, apparently the Betterscanning guy is very erratic at returning emails/shipping products, so you may well find someone wanting to pay a premium for one.Paul MaudDib posted:Me, having filled up half a chest freezer at $1-3 a roll: I had a look around on Google a few months ago and I'm not even sure anyone offers E-6 processing for sheet film in Australia anymore 
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Jun 19, 2022 10:43
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luchadornado posted:Maybe a dumb question, but is LFF largeformatphotography.info? Yeah - like a lot of forums it's not as active as it once was, but is a good repository of info. I think you have to be a member for 30 days before you can post in the for sale section though.
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Jun 19, 2022 13:30
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Aw hell ya, won a Horizon 202 on Yahoo. I've wanted one since I got into film photography 15 years ago, and even tried building my own 35mm panoramic camera out of a dead Nimslo body (back when people were pretty much giving Nimslo's away) but couldn't justify the cost to myself. Fortunately the weak yen and missing hand grip got one down to what I was happy to pay. I'm gonna use a Gorillapod screwed into the tripod socket as the hand grip on my trip to keep my fingers out of the frame, then see if I can 3D print a new handle when I get home. Gonna see if I can improve on the original design and make it big enough to accommodate a couple rolls of 35mm film in there. Any Horizon goons? If anyone has a filter they're willing to send me, was thinking of seeing if I could copy and 3D print some of my own. theHUNGERian posted:Is this a light leak? The negative is dark as hell, so it is overexposed, but I metered it the same way as all other frames which came out fine. I was shooting approximately at a right angle to the sun, so the angle formed by subject/camera/sun was about 90 degrees. I guess I should do test shots where my body does (not) block sunlight from hitting the WLF during the exposure? I don't think it's an issue with the focal plane shutter as that one goes left/right, not up/down. My first reaction was shutter, but I guess not. That dark spot in the middle made me wonder if it wasn't development, but if the other frames are fine then it's probably not that either. I know it's not what you're asking about, but I'd guess those circular stains are from hard water drying on them, try using a wetting agent if you aren't already. Megabound posted:Probably nothing special, rule of thumb is add 1 stop for each decade expired for non freezered film, yours should be fine box speed. I've got some 50 year old Tri-X in 4x5 I'm gonna try and shoot in a month or two when I get back from my trip. I was thinking I'd do a test sheet the same way as I do plates - move the darkslide holder out in 5 steps, increasing the exposure for each one.
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Jun 27, 2022 13:02
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Megabound posted:I own one of these, it's currently under repair. The goofiest things are the back rolls on the film backwards, with the black side of the backing paper facing out, and it has a tensioning system for the mirror return that you need to adjust when you shoot horizontal vs vertical. The lenses are also uncoupled from the shutter system so you need to compose, stop down and then shoot. Gonna be asking to pick your brain in a week or two, just bought one  Nobody else bid on it so I picked up a camera with 105mm, WLF, , two backs (look like a pair of 6x9s and one of the multiformat ones) and 4 sheet film holders for all of ten bucks. Operation uncomfirmed but it at least looks nice in the pictures. It's the slightly newer model with the extra slow speeds.That Horizon arrived jammed (seemed to work in the pics), Buyee told me to pound sand since I didn't pay extra for their insurance. Have not been successful in opening it so far.
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Jul 11, 2022 10:37
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Helen Highwater posted:I have a Horizon, but mine is the original 1970s metal body one. Ah, the black and silver one? I saw one at the camera market in Beijing when I was a student and didn't know what it was, I wrote it down to Google later (this was pre-smartphone for me) and went back to buy it the next weekend, but someone had beaten me to the punch. quote:If you get yours working, you should definitely try vertical panoramic potraits/selfies, they are cool and fun. Partial success! MVP of the last few days is "leave it on the windowsill for a few hours", which has given me just the bit of tolerance needed to get a few things unstuck so far. I've gotten the shutter unjammed and can adjust the aperture and fast/slow speeds, the camera seems to respond as it should (sounds like a swarm of angry bees), but shutter speed lever doesn't line up with the indicators. I can play with it and feel the three click stops in the middle of advancing the film, but finishing the cocking action pushes the shutter speed selector to the final position, so I am guessing I'm currently stuck with 1/2s or 1/60s depending on whether I have fast or slow selected. This kinda follows as it probably jumped a few teeth when I was forcing it open. With the advance unjammed I can now access the screw I need to get the film advance lever cover off (needed to get the body covers off so I can access the clockwork), however the next piece is being stubborn, even with the proper spanner and going the right way. Back to the window it goes for another couple hours edit:  got it! Was able to lock the smaller shutter speed selector gear in place with my fingernails and get the screw on the top loose with my driver, then move it out of the way enough that I could rotate the bigger gear attached to the lever into the correct orientation. I've lost the three click stops for shutter speed but calling it a win, lol. Do you have any examples? Wondering whether it makes more sense to have the camera centred on the subjects face or torso. I've read about a mod to shim the film gate back to get better up-close results that I may try when I get home. Ethics_Gradient fucked around with this message at 02:20 on Jul 13, 2022 |
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Jul 12, 2022 05:26
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theHUNGERian posted:Hey folks, I once returned what was probably a perfectly good Super Ikonta because I had forgotten to insert the light trap that goes down the hole in the middle of the reels of my Paterson tank. Hopefully not that! The same tank later got a crack in the side that leaked a bit of fluid, however it never seemed to let enough light get in there to cause an impact. I've silicone'd it up and it's good as new now. My thought process is you finish on the last frame and then rewind, so between coming out of the camera and unloading it in your darkroom/changing bag it should in theory be the most protected because it's innermost. There's that phosphorescent type flash you can get if you peel the tape at the end off the film too quickly (which happens to me semi-regularly but has yet to fog film IIRC), but from your picture it looks like you've either snipped it or folded it over so I think we can rule that out. If you have another tank and/or darkroom or changing bag, I would try changing one of those variables and seeing what happens.
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Jul 18, 2022 02:48
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Developed the mystery roll that came in the 645 back with my Rittreck; when I turned the lights on after loading the tank I could see from the backing paper that it was actually Kodacolor (C-22 process). After a quick Google and deciding I couldn't be arsed trying to source the proper chemistry for half a roll of 50 year old film of unknown provenance, I decided to do HC-110 semi-stand and send it. Supposedly C-22 will yield results if developing in B&W chemistry. Anyways I got nothing, which is kinda what I expected, but definitely not what I was hoping for. Ah well. The Finn posted:Noted on all and checking them out, thanks man Likewise, I've only watched the Naked Photographer of that list (who is quite good). Add attic darkroom to your list if you aren't already subscribed, he does some fun, weird experiments. (And a lot of trichroming, if that's your thing.)
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Aug 6, 2022 23:58
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Yeast posted:When I went to photography college, (15 odd years ago) we were starting our dark room printing unit, and one of the students had taken all of their photographic paper, and put it into a binder 'ready to use' she said as she flicked through it in the class room Haha, that's pretty good. I was eyeing A G1 locally a few months ago; the LCDs can go bad (not unique to the G series) but otherwise they're pretty solid according to reviews. Some of the later lenses don't work on the G1 but it's still a decent camera, worth grabbing at a discount.
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Aug 15, 2022 12:04
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Helen Highwater posted:Your choice of MF camera shoudl probably be more informed by the form factor than anything else. If you're not sold on the TLR life then do you want something that feels like a honkin' huge 35mm camera (Pentacon 6/Kiev 60/GX690)? Do you want a brick that's completely modular (Hasselblad/Arax 88/Bronica)? Something that feels like an Instax (Mamiya Super 23 Press)? Definitely. A TLR and an RB are not really cameras I'd cross-shop; the RB is really quite big and heavy even for an MF camera, whereas a TLR can generally fit into most camera bags as an extra "might as well bring it along" thing. Both good for their own thing (the RB more intentional studio work such as portraits, the TLR for street or landscapes) but very different cameras. There's no law against using an RB in the field, but if you handle one you'll see why most people don't. President Beep posted:I had a TLR for a while but decided I didn’t like the fixed focal length (plus the camera itself was a clapped-out POS) so I jumped to a Bronica 6x6 system. I’ve probably put $500 or so into the camera and a few lenses, so the cost does go up fast, but I didn’t want to drop hundreds of dollars on a good TLR. Just not worth the money to me. This is also pretty solid advice: a cheap TLR is a good way to get into MF but aside from building a Mamiya C system I wouldn't say it's worth paying a premium for a "nice" one. You can probably still get a functioning TLR for under $100. I'll also throw out the recommendation of a folder if you want portability; I've been eyeing a 6x9 like the Moskva for a while, but have too many cameras/project cameras ATM to justify buying one more. The Zeiss Super Ikonta's are also pretty good and probably what I'd be looking at if I was after a 6x6.
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Dec 8, 2022 20:50
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theHUNGERian posted:I am not sure if anyone cares, but "Magnum Contact Sheets" is a great photo book. It's nice to see that even the Greats will take multiple shots of one subject. I had assumed that only bad photographers do this and that the Greats take no more than 5 shots and then move on - not the case. I am also surprised at how pleasant Tri-X grain is, and how under certain conditions the grain is not obvious at all. Yeah, that is very up there on my list of photo books to check out; it would be great to kind of peel back the onion and see the creative process more. If anyone else has similar recs of contact sheet books I'd love to hear them. When I got into photography my first year of uni a mate of mine told me "the main thing about being a photographer is not showing people the bad ones", which has really stuck with me. Old Tri-X is a different formulation, used more silver. For some reason I thought it was the 80s when they switched, but was recently looking into it and it was more like the 2000's. That may or may not account for the difference, dunno. I have a box of early 70s 4x5 Tri-X that came with my Toyo I've been meaning to shoot, have a feeling it'll be bad (is from South Australia and probably stored in an attic or garage for decades), need to see if I can get some benzotriazole to deal with base fog.
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Jan 22, 2023 11:10
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SMERSH Mouth posted:I’ve stopped shooting developing and scanning so much film. In the past I’ve been completely spoiled here in Austin. Precision Camera’s photolab has a badass scanner and they generally do a really good job color correcting c35 negatives but still provide TIFFs for further adjustments. I wasn’t getting anything better out of DSLR or flatbed scanning. The Naked Photographer on Youtube is a good darkroom channel, I'm sure other people will have some good recs. You also used to trip over an old darkroom book or two every time you went to a thrift store or similar, that info would all still be good. One nice thing about the modern world is that red LEDs will probably be paper safe, which is nice because they'll be cheaper and easier to find than a proper safe light. Do test it first to be sure. Ilford makes a pop up darkroom tent which I have, it's pretty well made (well, they kinda cheaped out on the carry bag, but the tent and poles feel very solid and robust). If you are on a budget and have the space, you can also buy a cheap 2m tall hydroponic grow tent on eBay and set that up in your garage/spare room (they're a bit of a pain to set up and pack so it really works best if you can leave it up as a semi-permanent thing). If you shorten the poles a little bit, you'll be able to flip it inside out so the reflective side is on the outside and black is on the inside. If you go this route, or just otherwise have a small space (mine is in a cramped utility closet), something I picked up from another YT video is using one of those plastic document filing drawers for your trays. 5 drawers seems to be most common, I put my developer in a proper 8x10 tray on top of it, then the top drawer is presoak, second one down is rinse, then stop, then another rinse, then fix, then it goes into an off-grid sink* for a quick rinse. Most have little catches at the back so you don't accidentally yank them all the way out, I melted them off with a soldering iron so it's easier to remove the drawers when you go to dump the chems. *You probably already know this, but just in case: you don't actually need a sink with running water in a darkroom, just enough to do a quick rinse after fixing. You can wash your prints in daylight, I do mine in the bathtub downstairs. For the darkroom rinse, I rigged something up using two jerry cans (one up on a shelf to supply the water, the other on the floow to collect it) and an old sink I got at the junkyard and made a crude frame for. A tray is probably fine if you change the water semi-regularly, this just makes the rinse easier, and makes it easy to dispose of waste chemistry.
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Jan 31, 2023 20:27
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Lhet posted:
Those are great cameras, I remember looking through the viewfinder of an OM-4T having come up shooting on crop sensor DSLRs and having my mind blown at how expansive the viewfinder was. It was like going from a postage stamp at the end of a hallway to looking out a bay window.
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Apr 5, 2023 06:48
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HorribleAvatar posted:Have any of you used any of the Contax G series rangefinders? Are they worth the current prices or have they been overvalued liked a lot of film cameras these last few years? I'm getting tired of my Canon Elan and wanted to fiddle around with something else. Any thoughts would be appreciated. I haven't used a Contax G; the system doesn't massively appeal to me as the lenses are annoying (at best) to adapt and use on other cameras, auto focus, cost, etc. Who knows, maybe they're awesome, but they never appealed to me enough to try picking one up. I guess it depends on what you think is lacking about the Elan. If you've got a digital EF to swap lenses across that's a pretty power incentive to keep it, you might look at a later one with eye control focus if yours is the first gen, or maybe one of the pro bodies. If you want a manual 35mm rangefinder with interchangeable lenses, I think a Canon 7 is really the camera to beat if you're on a budget. The Russian bodies each have their own annoying quirks, the Canon has much better handling, ergonomics, and build quality while also not costing an arm and a leg like the M bodies do, and sometimes the meter even still works! I'd get one with the 50mm f/1.4 to start out. You could also try a TLR if you want something really different, you can get a no-name Japanese one for basically nothing (I picked up one called an "Elmoflex" for ten bucks last summer). There are also some inexpensive 6x6 and 6x9 folding cameras like the Mamiya Six and Moskva-5. Or be a masochist and get a 4x5 camera and shoot sheet film. It really slows you down and gets you thinking about each picture.
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Jun 5, 2023 10:25
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Blackhawk posted:My only complaint with it so far is the rangefinder patch seems to go out of vertical alignment kinda easily from being knocked around, but it's also pretty simple to adjust so eh. Mine did that too, try some thread locker on the adjustment screw next time you have it open.
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Jun 5, 2023 21:15
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eggsovereasy posted:$1200+ us, which seems nuts to me. its a nice camera, but you're in Leica M3/M2/M4 territory for that price if ebay sold listings are any indication and that's no contest imo. Yeah, I was going to say something like “I’d buy one again, if they hadn’t more than doubled in price” but was on my phone and too lazy to look it up to confirm. I’m no Leica fanboy but I’d probably rather have a beat up Leica than a decent Bessa. (It was fine, but I wouldn’t say it was amazing.) The Canons can be had for under $200 with the 50mm f/1.8, maybe 400 ish with the 50mm f/1.4. Sure you’re limited to screw mount glass, but all the cheap stuff is screw mount anyways, and you can carry it forward to M mount if you upgrade in the future.
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Jun 5, 2023 21:42
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VoodooXT posted:Just be aware that you can't go between Russian and Japanese screw mount lenses (different thread pitches). Had no idea about that - they both work fine on the LTM to M mount adapters I have, at least? I know the earlier 35mm Jupiter lens is too deep for most non FSU cameras, but that’s the only incompatibility I knew of. There were also a bunch of nerds saying the 85mm Jupiter isn’t actually accurate with any RF, but I don’t think any of them had actually used one before, I shot mine on my Bessa with no issues.
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Jun 5, 2023 22:47
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HorribleAvatar posted:I tend not to like the size especially with the battery grip attached (I'm a bit of a snob and need my battery grips) it's a fair bit larger than my Sony a7III. My concern is when I take either system hiking. I've been looking to downsize the weight of my kit which has made me seriously consider a Fuji XS-20, but that's a story for another thread. I considered the Contax because it looked like the overall package could save me a bit of weight when I wanted to shoot film while hiking. If you're talking a 6x7 SLR yeah that'd be miserable to hike with, but I'd recommend giving folding cameras a look if you can deal with a fixed ~45-50mm equivalent FoV. You probably don't even need a coupled rangefinder if you're shooting primarily landscapes. If you're looking to spend Contax G money, you might also look at some of the 35mm compact P&S - some of them are selling for stupid money, but there are still probably some reasonable deals out there.
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Jun 6, 2023 07:23
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Ziggy Smalls posted:Are the focal plane shutter hasselblads (2000f,fc,fcm,fcw) as fragile as other photography forums seem to suggest? I went to look at one in uni, the seller (not the owner, was selling for a dude who worked for him) put his thumb through the titanium shutter by accident. It still haunts me to this day.
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Jul 7, 2023 08:58
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With Kodak having handballed their chemistry production to a Chinese company I think it's time I finally hop on the Pyro train (miss u, HC-110). I went out shooting in the mountains* on Sunday with a guy I met on LFF through a gear sale, he was super knowledgeable and said that's pretty much all he uses. Also he tray develops his sheet film by inspection with an IR monocular  *Need to order a new dev tank, chemistry, Printfile sleeves, etc so I can develop my two rolls of B&W! Borrowed the 120mm f/5.6 macro from him for my Hasselblad, very interested to see what those come out looking like. Scanner is still probably at least a month away though.
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Aug 22, 2023 13:38
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