|
I too would like to hear this trick.dorkasaurus_rex posted:P.S. Does anyone know a good place in or near NY to get 35mm Kodachrome developed?
|
# ¿ Oct 21, 2008 20:07 |
|
|
# ¿ May 9, 2024 07:23 |
|
I've never paid a whole lot of attention to the temperature using HC110 and so far no problems. It's true that a lot of my negatives end up with pictures of lost astronaut ghosts on them but according to the bottle that's normal.
|
# ¿ Oct 23, 2008 17:45 |
|
Jahoodie posted:No. The mechanics in an SLR are the mirror and the shutter. The mirror reflects the light from the lens up to the viewfinder, and slaps out of the way when you take a picture. The shutter is still there to cover the film/sensor from exposure, and only opens for the fraction of a second it takes to expose the picture.
|
# ¿ Oct 27, 2008 04:41 |
|
e: i am smart edit for content: Velvia 100f is pretty swell.
|
# ¿ Oct 30, 2008 23:07 |
|
I developed some film in that instant coffee developer yesterday: The film comes out very heavily stained, but the end result is not unpleasant. The pictures are very grainy, which I suspect has something to do both with the film (Neopan 1600 @ISO 800) and the fact that the scanner really has to work to pull an image off the darker base. Next time I'll try it with some vitamin C, which apparently helps clear the film a bit.
|
# ¿ Nov 12, 2008 19:10 |
|
dorkasaurus_rex posted:Hey guys. Remember how I had that gorgeous 6x7 I was in love with? Bad news. The little tabs you'd use to unwind and extract the film broke. I still have them, but I don't think it'd very easy to re-attach them. I think I might just be buying an entirely new Pentax 6x7, since this one is falling apart, but the real problem is that there's a spool of film stuck in there I really want to get developed b I simply can't get it out without the spools in place!! Either way, if you can get the door open, you can pull the film out in a changing bag and finish off the winding by hand.
|
# ¿ Nov 13, 2008 20:40 |
|
They still make Velvia 50, though, I just ordered some in from Fuji the other day.
|
# ¿ Nov 15, 2008 09:39 |
|
ryangs posted:I am a huge fan of Efke. It is pretty sweet, the ISO 25 variety is essentially grainless... plus it got me into using water as a stop bath, which is a good idea all around.
|
# ¿ Nov 17, 2008 01:08 |
|
Celluloid posted:I just got back my Kodachrome and I can't really say I'm happy with the results.
|
# ¿ Nov 17, 2008 05:53 |
|
Mello Clello posted:My first proper experiences with medium format: Clayton Bigsby posted:Depends on the model. Canonet QL17 GIII for instance is shutter priority.
|
# ¿ Nov 19, 2008 06:37 |
|
ryangs posted:What developer do you use with Efke? I always used D-76 1:1 (for everything) at school and have never experimented with anything else, but now that I need to buy my own chemicals, it's time.
|
# ¿ Nov 20, 2008 06:37 |
|
pwn posted:For people who have bought bodies from keh.com: What's the most reasonable grade you would personally buy? The difference between BGN and LN is quite a lot, as far as price is concerned, so hopefully someone can shed light on this.
|
# ¿ Nov 21, 2008 06:33 |
|
pwn posted:So to anyone who's used and handled an F4... is the AF really that slow, that it would be frustrating, or is it a non-factor? Like I said, I don't shoot film like the F4 was originally made to, which is to say, fast and furious shooting for journalism. Two of my best photos I've ever shot were using a friend's old beater Pentax ZX-50, with a lens that you could hear dirt grinding when you zoomed, and the AF was so horrible and jerky that it was simply easier to manually focus, and which has finally seemed to die completely in the last couple weeks, so it doesn't really matter what camera one uses. That said, the F4 is a drat fine camera and it's tempting at the current prices. Buy it and go nuts, it's my favourite Nikon AF camera and there's no reason it shouldn't be yours.
|
# ¿ Nov 24, 2008 00:48 |
|
Celluloid posted:Now, if only I can get us in on that "suprise" Polaroid shipment... johnasavoia posted:But you could go in an entirely different direction than this, I despise the cult of lomography, but you can still use those cameras to great results, provided you dont just do what you described. On the other hand, I expect that someone signing up for a "Lomography" class isn't going to care. Life is cruel
|
# ¿ Nov 24, 2008 04:29 |
|
Gnomad posted:Given that film equipment in general has tanked value wise, can anyone give me a fair to unfair starting price on this? I'm not even sure what a Zone 6 enlarger is, and looking it up has given me the impression that the Zone 6 part is the light source that attached to a enlarger. Any feedback appreicated. If it's a standard 35mm/medium-format enlarger, $400-$450 is pretty much the most he could sell it for, depending on what your local market's like. He bought it fairly recently, and new enlargers still cost into the thousands, so he may be reluctant to part with it if you make him too low an offer. A large-format enlarger can go for more, but without knowing the model it's hard to say. From what we know, and the fact that it comes with pretty much everything, $400 might be a good starting point.
|
# ¿ Nov 25, 2008 05:53 |
|
MMD3 posted:Does anybody have any experience with Voigtlander rangefinders? I get the impression they're basically just a poor man's Leica. True? dorkasaurus_rex posted:Get the T70 instead if you can find it. Basically the same camera just with more nifty tech stuff (like autoexposure etc) I'd take an AE-1 or an A-1 any day over one of those... or at least a T90.
|
# ¿ Dec 11, 2008 19:51 |
|
MMD3 posted:I don't suppose you know anyone in Portland that I could rent/borrow a rangefinder from? I just want to get my hands on one to try them out at a concert and see how well I can determine wide aperture focusing in the low-light conditions of a music venue.
|
# ¿ Dec 12, 2008 02:37 |
|
jollygrinch posted:Would the pressure plate on a Rolleiflex being just slightly out of position cause focus issues? I had a whole roll out of focus, all of them increasingly so toward the bottom of each frame. It wasn't all the way over into the other position, just slightly off which held it back a little. I hope. I don't have any other ideas. If this is your first roll with the camera, check that the previous owner (or shop) hasn't taken the lens apart to clean it and mistakenly reassembled it slightly crooked. I had something similar (though much more extreme) happen with a Summicron I'd reassembled with a reversed rear element. dorkasaurus_rex posted:What's so gross about it?
|
# ¿ Dec 16, 2008 07:52 |
|
killabyte posted:I just got a few rolls of Ektar 100 from Freestyle. Has anyone else tried it yet? Now let's see them bring back Ektar 25
|
# ¿ Dec 17, 2008 05:38 |
|
Kaluza-Klein posted:Ah no, you are right. There is a focus adjustment, but you can't see it.
|
# ¿ Dec 27, 2008 13:59 |
|
Kaluza-Klein posted:Rotating the viewfinder lens (to focus) also rotates the "taking" lens. But what I was really trying to say is that the image in the view finder does not change as you adjust focus. So whether you are focused on 0.8m or infinity (this cameras limits) the viewfinder image looks exactly the same. Still a pretty cool looking camera.
|
# ¿ Dec 28, 2008 05:20 |
|
|
# ¿ May 9, 2024 07:23 |
|
pwn posted:I'm looking on Keh.com for a nice lil' used F4 and I see a lot of them are denoted "LEADER OUT MODIFIED." What does this mean and functionally what will it mean for me? Because there's this BGN F4e that is just singing out to me, but I just don't know what the implications of this leader out mod business are.
|
# ¿ Jan 12, 2009 21:23 |