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Mannequin fucked around with this message at 01:29 on Nov 13, 2010 |
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Jun 1, 2008 11:24
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I'd like to get into film - 35mm but also medium format. Do you recommend going down the 35mm format first? I was thinking of getting a used F5 or F6 (although they're expensive), but then maybe I should just get something super cheap since I'm not sure how often I will really use it. I have no idea how the different films perform so I guess that would just be something I would have to experiment with. In terms of medium format, would any of my current Nikon F-mount lenses work, or would I have to get something specific to medium format? I basically know nothing about this.
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Dec 29, 2008 18:47
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We should get a tag change on this thread to the black FILM tag. Would stand out much more. Edit: Wow! Ask and ye shall receive... Mannequin fucked around with this message at 23:31 on Jan 21, 2009 |
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Jan 21, 2009 22:31
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Mannequin fucked around with this message at 09:19 on Aug 29, 2009 |
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Aug 29, 2009 09:00
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HPL posted:Shot a hockey game on film. From my seat. Manual focus. Turned out better than I thought, especially given that the players were skating towards and away from me so I had to get used to tracking them like that. Couldn't cheat by putting the aperture to f/8 because of the netting. Wow, nice job. Those look great.
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Oct 24, 2009 08:21
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I think I'm going to buy a 35mm film camera. I would buy a Nikon since I have compatible lenses already and it's easier. I have done some research and am weighing the FE2. I also like the FA and the FM3A, but I can't afford everything and I like the looks of the FE2 so that's where I have decided I will start (unless one of you can recommend otherwise). My real question, though, comes down to film. I don't know anything about the different films and am wondering if you know of any good resources that show the side-by-side comparisons of each? How does Provia compare to Velvia, Tr-X to Ilford Plus? etc. Also, what's the difference between shooting slides and negatives? Does one render better than the other?
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Apr 26, 2010 03:06
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Looks like Velvia and Provia only come as slide film? I am looking at what B&H sells online. What do you use to scan those in, or do you send everything off and they send you a CD with JPEGs or something?
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Apr 26, 2010 05:05
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Do you think $465 is too much to pay for a Nikon FE2? I really want one, and it's in LN condition which I also like, but it's a huge step up in price from EX condition which goes for like $175. I hate paying such a high premium but I want it in nice condition. Just not sure if it's really worth it. Seems like a lot of money.
Mannequin fucked around with this message at 08:30 on Jun 27, 2010 |
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Jun 27, 2010 06:52
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Yeah, I think if it came in too nice I would have been afraid to use it and get it damaged. Whenever I travel into the city to photograph I always bang up my gear a little, it is almost unavoidable. I will try out the cheaper version and see if I want to eventually spend more on the nicer one. Thanks for the advice!
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Jun 27, 2010 09:16
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evil_bunnY posted:Why the FE2 in particular? Of the FM/FE/FA series, I like it the best. I think it's the most attractive camera and it has a good balance of features. But I also liked several others, including the FM2N and the FM3A, as well as a few others. In the end I had to settle for one. If I like it I'll buy some more.
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Jun 27, 2010 17:40
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evil_bunnY posted:Think about an F3. The only thing I don't like about mine is the lovely backlight on the meter indicator. 1/4000 was a big draw. I have found 1/8,000 to be too slow in some situations, so the faster the better. The F3 looks pretty nice, I like the idea of shooting with a waist level finder. The thing is, $200-$300 for a camera body isn't terrible. If I like shooting film, I'm sure I will buy more bodies. Edit: What has me most concerned right now is center-weighted vs. matrix metering, the latter of which I am used to. Not liking some of the differences there. Mannequin fucked around with this message at 03:29 on Jun 29, 2010 |
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Jun 29, 2010 02:33
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evil_bunnY posted:1/250 sync speed One of the things I'd like to do is set up a studio shot with my strobes and dslr and then swap out the camera and do the shot on film, assuming I can get all the syncing to work. I like the older film portraits of the past, so I'll see if I can do something like that.
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Jun 30, 2010 03:42
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Is film required to release the shutter on old 35mm cameras, anyone know? I'm not able to test this out. The batteries are new. I can't see anything in the book, but I'm still looking. edit: d'oh! I figured it out. vvv yeah, no, I was just doing something stupid. Mannequin fucked around with this message at 00:06 on Jul 1, 2010 |
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Jul 1, 2010 00:00
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I really had no idea how much it was going to cost to digitize slide film. I probably should have researched that before shooting two rolls. Do you think something like this (Epson V600 - $200) would do okay? I'm kind of on a budget, and I really only need photos at web resolution. If I ever wanted prints or better quality I would send it out professionally. The other catch is that I really don't know how much film shooting I will ultimately do so I don't want to spend hundreds of dollars.
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Jul 8, 2010 23:46
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Martytoof posted:As for slide -- I can't say I shot any, but is the principle the same as actual 35mm slides? Because if so I've been digitizing my family's old collection of 35mm slides and that's been going really well. No complaints. The roll I shot is Ektachrome E100VS (35mm) that they will be mounting into slide holders, so I'm assuming it's the same type of thing?
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Jul 9, 2010 00:02
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East Lake posted:Yeah that Epson V600 will be more than enough for web stuff, bought my sister one a while ago. I had some Velvia 50 developed probably a month ago and forgot to tell the lab not to mount them, scanned them in the little plastic mounts and got some weird rainbow poo poo on a lot of the pics. Pulled them out of the mounts and put them straight into the scanner holder and they disappeared. Oh, so for the purpose of scanning it's better not to mount? drat. Maybe I can call them in the morning. I was actually looking at maybe buying this instead which is about $170 more but it's a dedicated film scanner and it has fairly good reviews. I hate to spend the money but I'm worried if I don't I'll be disappointed in the results. I think the images you have posted so far are pretty good but the shadow areas in that image above are really pretty dark. Edit: Oh, I can pull them out of the mounts myself, didn't see that.
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Jul 9, 2010 02:40
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My local place said it would cost $15 to get the slides developed and mounted, and then $50 bucks (or more) on top of that to be digitized, because they have to use some bullshit archival CD that costs a lot of money. To me that sounds like a rip-off for just one roll of film. I checked out some of the techniques for photographing my own slides per your recommendations. Some of them didn't look too hot -- (the slide duplicators that you can buy from places like B&H and Amazon only work so well). Although I could set something up myself that would probably work, I have some issues with doing this. If I were to photograph my own slides, I'd want to make sure I was getting the best possible results. I won't know how well my results fare until I get some professional slides digitized first. So for that I'm going to go with Edit: I may actually go with someone other than ScanCafe because they ship everything over to India and it takes quite a long time to process, vs someone in the U.S. who is quick. Also, some reviews of ScanCafe were bad. Mannequin fucked around with this message at 05:02 on Jul 10, 2010 |
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Jul 10, 2010 04:19
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Hypnolobster posted:So, where the gently caress do I start with this? I'm working on getting a list of the details of all the lenses and cameras. Should I go for specific photography forums, sell it on ebay, do one big bulk sell or just curl up and cry? I would get the list together and give KEH a call. See what they tell you for buying the whole lot. I'm not really sure how that works, but it's probably the easiest way to get rid of it -- if they even accept it. They might not want some of the third-party crap. Find out what they will pay you, run it by your buddy to see if he's cool with that, and just get rid of it. Selling each piece individually will net you more cash, but it will be a time-consuming process assuming you do it right (with good descriptions, good photos showing the condition, etc). Otherwise, you might want to cherry pick the really nice things and sell those individually -- get as much as you can for them, and off-load the rest somewhere else.
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Jul 29, 2010 01:53
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I just got my slides back. I'm really happy with how these turned out from the look of things! I overexposed a little bit on a few shots (and underexposed on one or two) because I'm still getting used to the center-weighted meter. On several shots I was using the Auto (aperture priority) switch and it may have opted to overexpose instead of underexpose, but it doesn't look too bad. I'm really excited to get these scanned and see them on a big screen! Should be another week or two. 
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Jul 31, 2010 19:47
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FE2
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Jul 31, 2010 20:50
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Do any of you know if it's possible to buy any remaining Kodachrome that isn't expired by 10+ years? Even if I just buy one roll... time is running out, I would like to get one done just for the hell of it.
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Aug 14, 2010 20:07
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Your link doesn't work, buddy. Edit: Thanks. I was checking ebay last night, but I was finding everything from 2002 and 1989. Not sure what I was doing wrong?  Is it okay if it's that old? I was hoping for something not yet expired or just freshly expired. If it doesn't make a difference I'll buy it.
Mannequin fucked around with this message at 21:11 on Aug 14, 2010 |
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Aug 14, 2010 21:00
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If I shoot some tri-x 400 @ 400 and some on the same roll at 1600, how do I develop that? Or would I have to next time just shoot it all at 1600 or all at 400 to ease the development process?
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Aug 15, 2010 03:36
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Well, I went out and shot a roll of tri-x tonight. Kept it at 400, next time I'll experiment with pushing it to 1600. I didn't think I would go through the whole role, it normally takes me weeks to get through 36 exposures, but I had fun. I snuck into an abandoned building in town where they are doing construction and climbed up on the roof (about 4 stories up), and took some pictures of the town below. A cop drove by just as I was up there, I got really nervous for a sec but I guess he didn't see me and kept on driving. Then I got out of there and took some pictures of some store fronts and other things. Here's my partner in crime:  Now I have to figure out how to develop this stuff. 
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Aug 15, 2010 06:34
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Dr. Cogwerks posted:Is there an ideal developer for scan-friendly negs? What does this mean exactly? You can't scan b&w negatives?
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Aug 19, 2010 04:19
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Oh okay. I haven't developed any film since my jr. high photography class, so I'm a little rusty on the terms and techniques.
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Aug 19, 2010 04:41
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Reichstag posted:Nice picture. ... The lab got my roll confused with someone else's Hope they can get it back.
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Aug 22, 2010 00:13
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pwn posted:The F4 has a special back too. I've wanted one for a while now. It was a local place, they sent it out to a smaller lab for processing, not really sure where. Pompous Rhombus posted:Try 7 rolls, and never getting them back. drat...
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Aug 22, 2010 05:30
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Will external light meters tell you how long to meter a scene for in particularly low light, like shots at night that might require a minute or two of exposure? Alternatively, have any of you used charts like this, and do they work? http://www.fredparker.com/ultexp1.htm (Scroll down to Chart B towards the end)
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Aug 26, 2010 05:56
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That is really neat.
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Sep 6, 2010 06:11
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Nannypea posted:Thank you! I did mean Black and White. If it's that easy, I might just try it! I'm going to give it a few weeks to see if my "desire" (right word?!?) is still there. But expect lots of questions when/if I do begin. Glad to see you back in the photo threads, Nannypea. Mannequin fucked around with this message at 04:31 on Sep 12, 2010 |
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Sep 12, 2010 04:24
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Got some film back from slideconverter.com. I gave them a bunch of Ektachrome slides and some color negatives (all 35mm). This was my first time shooting film in literally 15 years at least. Was a little disappointed in how some of the photos came out, I'm not sure if it's the camera, the medium, or just me. Anyway, here are some pictures if you're curious to see the quality of the scans. To me the quality looks... okay. They left the borders around them all, some of them are slightly crooked. I guess that's probably normal. I had them scan it at 4000 pixels not realizing that 4,000 was the smaller end of the dimension, so really they are like 6,000 wide. Too big. Next time I'll just do the regular size. This cost me $0.49 cents a scan when all was said and done. That's half as much as my local lab wanted so it was still a fairly decent bargain. If I had them done at the regular size it would have been $0.15 cents less so next time I would probably do that.            I didn't upload all of them at the full res because they were really big and it didn't really add anything to the photo. On some of them I trimmed the borders, on others I left them. I still have more to upload but I'll get to them at another time.
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Sep 19, 2010 17:38
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They're really just boring snapshots, but thanks. edit: goddamnit, I just realized I labeled the pics with the wrong films. 
Mannequin fucked around with this message at 23:44 on Sep 20, 2010 |
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Sep 20, 2010 23:30
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Speaking of Kodachrome, how old is too old? If it expired in the 80's should I avoid it? ISO 25 seems to be the better one to buy in terms of color from what I can tell. What do you guys think?
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Sep 27, 2010 23:59
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East Lake posted:This happens on my Nikon S2 at wide apertures, or maybe the widest, I'm not sure. It's almost like the the bokeh has wide-angle distortion while the in focus portion doesn't. How do you like your S2? I have kind-of wanted one for a while.
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Oct 21, 2010 00:25
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8th-samurai posted:Now you are ready to pour in chemicals. The system is light tight at this point so feel free to come out of the closet (or where ever). Make sure your solutions are all about 20 degrees centigrade. 20 degrees Celsius is 68 Fahrenheit. My apartment is kept pretty warm (I have no control over the heating), and currently it is 74 degrees. Should I open a window to try and cool it down, or is 74 degrees close enough to start working? I already have the roll in the tank. My other question: when I was ratcheting it on the auto loader the last bit of film didn't seem to connect and was hanging loose. It was a 36 exposure roll. Could it be I didn't trim off enough off the front and the end of the roll? Or maybe the 36 exposure rolls are longer and don't wrap around the auto load reel all the way? Anyway, I can't go back now so hopefully it won't mess it up too much. Edit: I think I answered my own question on the temperature thing. I guess I just use this. Mannequin fucked around with this message at 07:15 on Dec 19, 2010 |
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Dec 19, 2010 07:02
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Yeah, I've got the thermometer in the solution. Another question: do I have to blend the developer + water together before pouring it in or I can I put 300ml of water and 9ml of developer separately?
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Dec 19, 2010 07:15
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Hmm, one thing not made clear by the guide on page 1 is how much fixer is needed for one roll, and how much perma wash? Surely not 1 whole liter of fixer... Edit: Also, how long do you leave the water in after you have poured out the developer? Mannequin fucked around with this message at 07:44 on Dec 19, 2010 |
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Dec 19, 2010 07:42
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guidoanselmi posted:The volume should be listed on the bottom of your dev tank for any given solution. It lists the developer, not fixer information: 8th-samurai posted:Dilution 'B' Recipe: But when he jumps down to the next steps, he says: 8th-samurai posted:stop bath: To stop the developers action when the appropriate time has arrived. Not needed use water. For the stop bath he doesn't list how much, but I will go with the amount you listed. For fixer, he says he makes up 1 liter at a time, is that just for convenience so he can use it later or because you actually need 1 liter? For permawash he doesn't list any quantities. I want to measure these all out and make sure they are at consistent temperatures before I start pouring them in my tank. I will send him a PM, maybe he can answer my questions.
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Dec 19, 2010 17:27
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Paul MaudDib posted:You will need enough of whatever chemical you are using to cover the film, at least. I have no idea how much that is. Should I just guess, then dilute it 1:3? Paul MaudDib posted:There's no incentive to put less than the tank will hold in, because you save the fixer until the solution is depleted. What do you mean save it? Pour it out to re-use it? How can I do this if I eventually put Permawash in there? Sorry, I have not done this in 17 years and I'm trying to go by the OP's instructions.
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Dec 19, 2010 19:16
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