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Reichstag posted:That's what I thought. What's throwing me off is the flash thing.
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Jul 7, 2008 03:37
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brad industry posted:Anyone want to recommend a cheap place to get 120 developed in the Bay Area?
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Jul 14, 2008 23:43
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I just ordered an EOS 3 from KEH. It's been almost 8 years since I shot film, so I'm pumped for this  I already have an Epson V500 from when I digitized all my mom's Kodachrome slides, so I'm going to be doing my own scanning.I mostly shoot landscapes but I do some people shots too. I'm thinking the best general-purpose color film for pictures outside would be Ektar 100? Also thinking Portra 400NC might fit my needs for higher-speed film. Is color balance something I need to worry about if I'm shooting indoors?
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Feb 2, 2011 21:36
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guidoanselmi posted:I might be the only person who doesn't care for ektar too much - I would say shoot slide for landscapes. It's rare that I'll like a landscape I've shot in negative. Arriving next week at the same time as the camera - one roll each of: Velvia 100, Ektachrome E100G, Ektar 100, Portra 160NC, Portra 400NC, and good ol' Tri-X.
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Feb 4, 2011 04:28
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It's here! Soft-touch shutter =  Eye-controlled focus = 
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Feb 10, 2011 01:22
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Ferris Bueller posted:how much did you find the EOS 3 for?
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Feb 10, 2011 01:34
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So, my EOS 3 seems to eat batteries. $15 2CR5 batteries. It killed the last one in under 24 hours.  (Yes, after the first one I made sure the switch was set to "L".)BUT KEH is awesome! They're RMAing it and I'm getting another one! e: apparently the blinking "bc" could mean a malfunction as well as low battery. Either way...
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Mar 3, 2011 01:59
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I didn't want to wait for batteries to come from elsewhere - I was coming up on 30 days since I bought the camera... I'm probably going to buy the Kodak 2CR5s B&H has for $6 and buy some more film too so shipping doesn't hurt so much.
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Mar 3, 2011 03:00
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I got my film back from Dwayne's! These are all Portra 160NC. I'll scan the Ektar tomorrow.    
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Mar 18, 2011 05:55
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unixbeard posted:why does film come in multiples of 6?  It comes in multiples of 4. The 24-frame roll is a relatively recent introduction http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/135_film#LengthAll of the negative protectors I've seen are designed for strip lengths of 4 or (less commonly) 6. That makes 24 and 36 exposure rolls ideal, since those numbers are divisible by both 4 and 6...
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Apr 30, 2011 17:37
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I got a bunch of freezer-stored film with my new-to-me RZ67. All of it expired about 10 years ago, but it's supposedly been in the freezer since. It's 5 or 6 boxes of Vericolor II and some random Portra and Superia. I'm thinking I should rate the film one stop slower. Does that sound about right or does the fact that the film was in a freezer mitigate its age? I've also read that pre-2000 C-41 generally requires a stabilizer to avoid fading after developing. Will Dwayne's or other labs do this on request or will I need to treat the negs myself after I get them back? edit: I rite gud 
MrBlandAverage fucked around with this message at 22:22 on May 6, 2011 |
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May 6, 2011 20:24
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DJExile posted:What's a good general use (400 ISO, I'd say) B&W film to use for travel? I'm guessing different films have different 'feels' to them. I'd like to get back into practice now that I have a new OM body on the way. I'll be going to Paris later this summer and I think some B&W would be pretty fun.
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May 24, 2011 01:45
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DJExile posted:Awesome. Seeing it on Adorama for $3.59. Good price?
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May 24, 2011 02:35
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mysticp posted:I just got a freebie bag of old 120 film all at various levels of expiration and I have no idea how it has been stored.
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May 25, 2011 23:40
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mysticp posted:PM me. As long as you put the effort into shooting a roll and showing us the results here I will mail you a roll for free. I only have 5 rolls so I want to try and spread the love a bit PM sent 
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May 26, 2011 00:54
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ExecuDork posted:Rumour has it the tungsten-balanced films keep their reciprocity for longer exposures at night, I've seen people talk about "up to 4 minutes" though I don't know the details (or how trustworthy such reports are).
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May 26, 2011 02:29
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HPL posted:I find analog needle-type light meters are good because you can see all the aperture/shutter combinations at once plus you can wave the meter around and see what the highs and lows are and average it out. I got a Gossen Digisix recently. It's got a lot of the fancy digital meter features while still being used like the analog meters we know and love. At $150 it's not too expensive, either.
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May 31, 2011 15:09
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spf3million posted:Can someone with a v500 and/or v700/750 take a picture of it next to something of reference so I can see how big they are in real life? From the last page, but - my V500 with a New Yorker, a $5, and a Lenspen:  It's certainly not tiny, but it's a hell of a lot smaller than the HP Scanjet 5200c I had in high school.
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Jun 5, 2011 01:16
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gib posted:The best thing about it is the lack of grain. It is the sharpest negative film I've ever seen. I think it was designed to replace slide film. I'd believe that - my best results with Ektar have been in situations where slide film would also have worked well. I think Ektar is somewhat more limiting, though, in that I only get good results in scenes with strong/direct light. Anything from overcast days looks like crap.
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Jun 17, 2011 20:59
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Man_alive posted:I had the film developed today, only to find that there is nothing on the film. At all.
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Jun 20, 2011 15:16
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I think the new Portra 160 is pretty sweet. 
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Jun 21, 2011 00:56
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ExecuDork posted:2400 dpi is massive overkill. I use 600 when I'm feeling masochistic, 300 normally. Play around with 48 bit vs. 24 bit colour and tell us whether it's worth it. I disagree; I find 2400dpi to be the optimum, past which I get diminishing returns on resolution. There's definitely more detail past that which I won't be able to get out of the negative with a flatbed scanner, but that's plenty for my purposes. I end up with around 7.5 megapixels out of a 35mm frame and 34 megapixels out of a 6x7 frame.
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Jun 21, 2011 02:24
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Tried some nighttime long exposures with Portra 400. Looks like +2 stops is a good adjustment for reciprocity failure past 5 seconds. Tried +1 stop, way too thin - but still scanned great:  Tried +1.5 stops, still a little thinner than I'd like but almost there: 
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Jun 22, 2011 05:41
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brad industry posted:What is the reasoning behind this, because it sounds like you would just end up with thin negatives. Well, yeah... but part of why I posted those two pictures was to show how well even super thin Portra 400 negatives scan. Definitely some ridiculous shadow detail.
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Jun 22, 2011 21:12
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guidoanselmi posted:great shots  but after deciding to give it a shot in the scanner anyway I went all
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Jun 22, 2011 22:41
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brad industry posted:Yeah but all print film has really good exposure latitude. ISO isn't set in stone or anything, it's more like an average. The same film in different cameras will vary in where it falls on the curve. Maybe I'm showing my inexperience with color negative film or the amount of time that's passed since I printed optically, but I wasn't expecting to get what I got out of a negative that looks like this: 
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Jun 23, 2011 00:56
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Jul 1, 2011 00:41
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DancingPotato posted:They're ALL 220 rolls!? Wow. That should keep you going for a millenia or so... Anybody want some? I'll part with up to 5 rolls a person for my cost, $7 plus actual shipping. Seems to be about the going rate. Expired 2009, supposedly freezer kept since, except for its trip to me.
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Jul 1, 2011 16:44
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penneydude posted:2. Apparently when you unstick tape from things it gives of a weird, faint green light. Usually not something I would notice, but when you're taping 200' of film to a spool in total darkness, it catches you off guard a bit. Triboluminescence! 
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Jul 12, 2011 13:35
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Cannister posted:A little while back mysticp sent some free expired (2005?) rolls of Portra 100T to the first few lucky goons who spoke up - luckily I was one of them and here are the worthwhile results from my roll:
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Jul 22, 2011 20:17
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nielsm posted:How do you deal with overly curly film? Is there any miracle cure when your negatives like to curl up, making them way too hard to push into sleeves or place in the enlarger? Curl across the negative or lengthwise? For curl across the negative I curl the negative sleeve too as I put in the negative. For lengthwise curl, once my negs are in strips to go into the sleeves, the curl isn't ever so severe I can't coax them into the sleeves. Occasionally I'll have the sleeves at the edge of a table so the un-sleeved portion of the negative strip can hang off while I thread in the beginning of the strip. For me, both types of curl seem to resolve themselves after a few days in a negative binder with a few pounds' worth of other negative sleeves pushing them flat.
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Aug 18, 2011 22:12
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I found a local camera shop I didn't know about that carries a variety of developing chemicals  I have 35mm reels but not 120 reels. I remember the last time there was a reel discussion people seemed to be split pretty evenly between plastic & metal. I personally think Hewes stainless are the way to go for 35mm, but there was at least one person saying that plastic was better for 120 specifically. Those of you that do your own 120 - metal or plastic, and more importantly, why?
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Sep 2, 2011 17:57
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Maverique posted:Do you find it easy to get cheap film in the US? I'm having a hard time getting over the "loving portra 800 costs 7 something euros" barrier. Shoot Portra 400 at 800. It'll do fine.
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Sep 7, 2011 17:27
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Captain Postal posted:
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Sep 9, 2011 19:10
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Mannequin posted:How does Ilford 400 hold up when pushed to 1600? I've pushed HP5+ to 6400 before with usable results.
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Sep 14, 2011 02:44
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I know we have a lot of P67 users in here, but why not consider an RB67? It doesn't have the same crazy focal-plane shutter vibration issues, there's interchangeable backs, and you can get kits for $300 (or less if you're patient).
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Sep 23, 2011 03:15
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Well, call me crazy for walking around with my RZ then v v I keep the neck strap short and brace it against my chest when I shoot.After I got the RZ I considered getting a P67 instead - using one was my first exposure to medium format, in fact - but I love having interchangeable backs too much. I usually use the WLF and leave the prism finder at home, because that does save quite a bit of size and weight.
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Sep 23, 2011 04:06
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Did my own B&W for the first time in 9 years. Feels good man. Pan F Plus in HC-110 Dilution F. Underdeveloped a little, so the negs are somewhat flat, but it's easier to deal with in a scanner than in an enlarger.
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Sep 25, 2011 05:13
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Mannequin posted:That looks great! I'm still a little nervous about doing my own b&w developing and have it done with the rest of my film. The main problem I have is dealing with temperatures since my apartment is almost always too hot. Thanks. Temperatures are actually pretty easy to adjust for unless your apartment is way above 80 degrees. What I do is I fill a metal bowl with water and wait for the whole thing to come to room temperature. Then I use the water to mix my developer. That way the developer temperature won't change over the course of development and you'll know exactly how much to compensate. Other temps don't matter so much.
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Sep 25, 2011 17:02
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Mannequin posted:Shot with Provia 100f (which I can't seem to find anymore these days), I like the pastel look to it. It was shot almost wide open because I was low on light, I think stopped down with a tripod would have helped it quite a bit. If you're willing to give them your money, the Lomography shop seems to have it in stock. I just talked to a lady at Freestyle who said Fuji's been giving them the run-around on when there'll be more available...
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Sep 28, 2011 01:19
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