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Clayton Bigsby
Apr 17, 2005

Delivery McGee posted:

Test it with whichever modern battery fits, and remember how far off it is or make a sticker to go over the ISO dial. Mine reads a stop high.

Using a different voltage battery tends to cause a non-linear error in the readings so just don't plan on shooting slides with it.

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Clayton Bigsby
Apr 17, 2005

Pre-soaking Tri-X really helps get a lot of the purple (anti-halation) backing out.

Obviously, don't pre-soak if you're using Diafine.

Clayton Bigsby
Apr 17, 2005

killabyte posted:

An awesome camera. It would make a nice compact travel MF camera...which is lacking in the market today.

I wouldn't call it "compact" (though I guess it's all relative); it's still a sizable beast.

By the way, a good travel camera in medium format that's pretty modern is the GA645 series. Yeah, it's "only" 6x4.5 but the lenses are amazing. :)

Clayton Bigsby
Apr 17, 2005

Luxmore posted:

The vertical format on those drives me nuts. I know I can just flip the camera sideways, but argh.

I actually really like it but yeah, it does take a little getting used to, just like with a half frame 35mm camera. :)

Clayton Bigsby
Apr 17, 2005

Bottom Liner posted:

So a friend has an attic with a bunch of abandoned film equipment, I went up there to look around and snapped this pic of a few of the bodies that looked to be in decent condition. Do any of these look like something I should hold on to/try to use? I have free reign over them if I want any of them or anything.



Argus (the yellow one) rangefinders are fun.

What's the guy in the left upper corner? Yashica, Minolta?

Clayton Bigsby
Apr 17, 2005

gib posted:

Looks like a Yashica Lynx, though maybe not the 14. It will probably be in better shape than the Argus, but both should be pretty fun if they work.

Problem with the Yashicas (and the lens isn't big enough to be a 14) is that the rangefinder beam splitter tends to turn to crap and you have a very dim or non-existent rangefinder patch on some cameras. I have an otherwise mint Lynx-14 that's practically unusable because of this. :(

Clayton Bigsby
Apr 17, 2005

killabyte posted:

I bought the goods to do that (washing soda is REALLY hard to find) but I haven't gotten around to doing it yet. Maybe I will try it tomorrow.

Around here all the grocery stores carry it.

Tried this last year and it was fun, but horrendously grainy. I'll stick to Diafine.

Clayton Bigsby
Apr 17, 2005

killabyte posted:

The washing soda I ended up finding was by Arm and Hammer: Super Washing Soda. Comes in a huge box.

I can ship people a few oz of it they really want. PM me.

You might want to reconsider shipping little baggies of mystery crystals in the mail :v:

Clayton Bigsby
Apr 17, 2005

Reichstag posted:

That, and I don't want to deal with trying to maintain chemical temps without special equipment.

What, like a thermometer?

Clayton Bigsby
Apr 17, 2005

Reichstag posted:

The canonets are solid entry level RFs, but they are all (iirc) fully automatic, which isn't what a lot of us are looking for in our cameras.

Depends on the model. Canonet QL17 GIII for instance is shutter priority.

Clayton Bigsby
Apr 17, 2005

killabyte posted:

I don't think the F4 is compatible with "G" lenses which is a great reason to buy an F100 or F5...but if you have no intention of using a newer lens, the F4 is a good camera.

Pretty sure it works fine with G glass.

Clayton Bigsby
Apr 17, 2005

Gnomad posted:

also, pawn shops are practically tossing film gear at you just fro walking in the door. I saw a guy buy a Leica for $100..... guess I missed that one.


I wish that were the case here, the local pawn shops are ridiculous. Beat up Nikon N80? $300. Beat up Sears brand 70-200 lens? $200. Etc.

Clayton Bigsby
Apr 17, 2005

That blackbird thing looks fun, but kind of silly. It's basically a Holga with a funny viewfinder that uses 35mm film, so just dump some 400 speed (100 if you're out on a bright sunny day) in and enjoy.

Clayton Bigsby
Apr 17, 2005

Reichstag posted:

A silly camera it may be, but a tlr is more than a "funny viewfinder." :P

Sure, if the viewing lens is attached to the focusing mechanism. :) If not, it's a viewfinder camera with the added negative of reversing the image for you.

Clayton Bigsby
Apr 17, 2005

Kaluza-Klein posted:

I am not sure what you are saying here. You can adjust the focus by turning either the view finding lens or the shutter lens. They are attached by mechanical cogs.

Or are you referring to the fact that the adjusted focus is not visible in the view finder?

I still need to use a few more shots on my lomo, then I will go pick up a box of 400 for both of them.

So you can actually see the results of the focus adjustment in the viewfinder? If so, cool -- the website made it sound like it was guess focus and you just used the image in the viewfinder to compose.

Give the Kodak BW400CN film a go if you want some latitude for the shots -- it's a very forgiving C41 process black/white.

Clayton Bigsby
Apr 17, 2005

Luxmore posted:

It's pretty weird that they bothered to couple the lenses if you can't see the focus, but I guess it's more ironic that way?

Still a pretty cool looking camera.

If you can actually see what's going on you won't be doing ART, man! :D

edit: I was going to ebay this, but I'll throw it out here. If anybody wants a Pentax SL with 55/1.8 in very good shape (brand new lightseals, lens nice and clean) send me a PM or IM me (in profile). I'll let it go for a good deal. It's basically a Spotmatic without meter, very compact and as close to a rangefinder as I've ever used in an SLR. Nice bright viewfinder etc...

Clayton Bigsby
Apr 17, 2005

Most likely the negs are fine and they just botched the printing. I sometimes drop a roll of C41 off at the local places and the prints are never particularly good, but if I scan the negs they're just fine.

Clayton Bigsby
Apr 17, 2005

Yeah, buy a TLR (like my 124G, if you're interested) and send it off for a CLA. If you get a Yashica TLR, Mark Hama is your guy. It'll be like new when he's done.

Medium format is FUN and you can get an Epson 4490 for cheap and get decent scans too.

Clayton Bigsby
Apr 17, 2005

Epson 4490 if you can find them, mine was $79 refurb'd and does great MF neg scans.

Don't worry about sprocket holes if you're scanning medium format, there are none.

If you want to scan 35mm as well, maybe a V700 would be ok but you really need a proper film scanner.

Clayton Bigsby
Apr 17, 2005

Kaluza-Klein posted:

I will be doing 35mm only. I want their sprockets!

What do you mean by "proper"? Something like the Plustek OpticFilm 7200? It looks like that won't get me any sprockets, and $189 is a bit steep.

Most "proper" (dedicated) film scanners won't. If you want serious scans you probably will want to look at a Coolscan or similar setup, but it won't be all that cheap. There's more to scanners than resolution, there's how well it holds the film, depth of field, dynamic range etc. Unfortunately scanning 35mm well still isn't a cheap thing, and that's why it's so great shooting MF -- even a humble 4490 will get you a decent enough scan to do respectable 8x10 prints from.

Clayton Bigsby
Apr 17, 2005

Pompous Rhombus posted:

What kind of Olympus gear? I've been looking for an OM-1 or 4 ever since I handled one... they're so small.

If you're looking for a killer OM body send me a PM, I have an OM-2 that was just serviced by Camtech earlier this year.

Clayton Bigsby
Apr 17, 2005

No, just a plain OM2 (not MD but still has the drive connection).

Clayton Bigsby
Apr 17, 2005

Sadi posted:

I have started recently with film and have really been enjoying it. I am shooting on an AE-1P and a Yashicamat LM. I am looking at getting a medium format with interchangeable lenses. The ability to shoot 6x7 would be a real plus. What I have been looking at are the Mamiya C3 series and the Bronica GS-1. I really like the numbers on some of the C3 series lenses and the ability to do close ups but some of the stuff the GS-1 also seem very attractive. Price is a bit of a factor, I am trying to stay under 500 on keh. Any thing wrong with the two listed camera or are there others I should consider also?

Either would be fine. Keep in mind that if you want to do close ups with a C series TLR you really need the Paramender to handle the parallax correction.

Let me toss this out: RB67. It has the bellow focusing, great glass, 6x7 with rotating back, and doesn't cost a fortune. The downside? Size and weight. It is a HUGE loving CAMERA but if you are willing to deal with it you can't find anything better for the money.

Clayton Bigsby
Apr 17, 2005

TokenBrit posted:

I have an RZ67 Pro II. It's great. I only got it over the RB67 because I can borrow lenses and digital backs for it easily.

Edit:
It is big, but you can actually handle it. I shoot it in a studio handheld without a problem, even without a strap attached.

Yeah, it's actually nice to handhold since it has so much bulk you won't have a lot of shake. :) I have the shorty neckstrap for my RB and it's pretty comfortable to shoot.

The RZ is nice, but I've seen RB67 outfits go for < $200 lately. Hard to beat.

Clayton Bigsby
Apr 17, 2005

Dr. Cogwerks posted:

Nuts to your Leicas and Bronicas.

You're not badass unless you're shooting through a Tibetan skull camera.
http://www.boyofblue.com/cameras/yama/yama02.htm

Or make your red filters out of BLOOD.

http://www.boyofblue.com/cameras/hiv.html

Clayton Bigsby
Apr 17, 2005

hybr1d posted:

Can someone recommend someone that can do mail-in LF drum scans (or someone in the SoCal area that does walk-ins)?

I just went and shot my first 10 4x5's today, using Arista 100. My light meter told me that at f64 one of them was an 8 minute exposure, so we'll see how that comes out. I sent them off using my local camera shop (Oceanside Photo & Telescope), but they wanted $10 for each scan and the lady helping me had no idea if they were drum scans. I'm not paying $10 each for flatbed scans.

For $10 I can pretty much guarantee they weren't drum scans. You're looking at 10-20x that for a high quality 4x5 drum scan.

Clayton Bigsby
Apr 17, 2005

hybr1d posted:

Thanks for the suggestions- I will stick to contact sheets except when I want something printed huge. Looking at some of the colors in large format photos taken, I think I am going to shoot some color next.

Quick question: With extremely small apertures like 64, and exposure times running in the minutes, should I expect to see softer pictures of truly stationary objects like buildings, mountains, etc?

Nah, you'll be fine. One thing you'll find though is that you generally won't see any people since they don't stick around long enough to register. :)

Clayton Bigsby
Apr 17, 2005

Luxmore posted:

Automatic rewind on the F4 pulls the leader into the film cartridge by default, but you could have Nikon modify the camera to leave the film leader out, so you could more easily rewind mid-roll and then reload.

Also makes it so you don't have to use a film retriever tool or pop the can open when loading reels if you develop at home.

Clayton Bigsby
Apr 17, 2005

Hollis Brown posted:

I can get a canon elan 7e with grip for 125. Worth jumping on? I have a 40d already so I could use my 50 1.8 I believe.

It's not a bad deal and not a good deal. You can get an EX+ 7e w/ grip for $122 from KEH.

Clayton Bigsby
Apr 17, 2005

poopinmymouth posted:

Why do old cameras look so much sexier and robust, design wise, than anything digital? I mean, the sony a900 comes close, but the A-1 is just beautiful

Older cameras are definitely more angular and "serious" looking.

That said, I still get weak in my knees when I look at my 1Ds Mark II. :)

Clayton Bigsby
Apr 17, 2005

killabyte posted:

I would absolutely love it if Nikon came out with a digital version of the F3 but I doubt it will ever happen.

Put in a 12 MP FX sensor, get rid of all the LCDs and have it controlled solely but dials and buttons. A manual shutter cock would be great. I would pay $2000 for one of those.

You and about eight other people, and that's unfortunately why we'll never see cameras like this. :(

I want a nice Leica M series back based on that 14MP (maybe it was 12, been a while) monochrome FF sensor I saw one company offering. No LCD or anything, just a switch to set ISO. I'd pay $2000 for THAT. :)

Clayton Bigsby
Apr 17, 2005

Gnomad posted:

I've never done a pre-soak. Can't even think of why you would with B/W.

Helps with getting the purple crap (aka anti-halation backing) off some Kodak films.

Clayton Bigsby
Apr 17, 2005

Kaluza-Klein posted:

What is a an acceptable drying time? Is four hours cutting it too short? I want to get them under the scanner!


Doh, I just realized I forgot to save the fixer. I could have reused that, right?

Dry them until dry -- i.e. no water beads or moisture. The time depends on the environment.

As for the fixer, yes, you can reuse it.

Clayton Bigsby
Apr 17, 2005

Nedsmaster posted:

I'm a photographer, and I recently got a whole bunch of slides and ancient negatives from my grandpa. I noticed that some of the slides, the really old ones, were done on real glass and with a metal frame. This poo poo does NOT degrade, I scanned these slides and they look like they could've been taken yesterday. Keep in mind this photo is from the mid/late 40s...

Kodachrome eh? That stuff won't degrade for a century or so.. :)

Clayton Bigsby
Apr 17, 2005

Nedsmaster posted:

Guy: Well you can think what you want about my demeanor, but when I was your age I knew to not ask stupid questions in a camera store. I was published when I was 18. What are you?

This is where I would ask him what the gently caress he's doing working in a camera store if he's such a successful special snowflake. :)

Clayton Bigsby
Apr 17, 2005

gib posted:

In a lesser forum, asking if Leicas are worth it would likely cause some sort of shitstorm.

Short answer is no, they're not worth it (especially new).

This is what everyone who hasn't owned one says. :D

Clayton Bigsby
Apr 17, 2005

Gnomad posted:

So how long until you start fire-forming 620 film from 120 ?

120 and 620 is actually pretty much the same. If you have a darkroom/changing bag you can respool 120 onto 620 rolls with ease. The only difference is the thickness and diameter of the spool ends, so that's why 120 won't just drop into cameras made for 620. (Though sometimes you can trim the spool a bit and that's all it takes; depends on the camera.)

Clayton Bigsby
Apr 17, 2005

gib posted:

Stop bath doesn't really matter.


It does if you use Diafine since it can burn a hole in your film if you use it...

Clayton Bigsby
Apr 17, 2005

Kaluza-Klein posted:

I've noticed that most all of the Kiev 88 kits come with an 80mm lens. Do lenses appear wider on a medium format than they would on a 35mm body? I have a 55mm on a crop dslr (around 70mm or so apparent view I would guess) and I find myself wishing I had something wider most of the time.

If the Kiev is 6x6 you can get the 35mm equivalent angle of view by multiplying the focal length by 0.55 -- the 80mm would be equivalent to a 44mm lens on a 35mm camera. If you find yourself cropping to 6x4.5 most of the time with the Kiev it'd be more like having a 50mm lens on 35mm.

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Clayton Bigsby
Apr 17, 2005

Been a while since I stopped in here, just added a new family member:

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