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Krispy Kareem posted:Does anyone know of a film that's similar to Agfa Portrait? I used to run that through my TLR's and always liked the toned down realistic colors. Unfortunately the Kodak and Fuji film I've used in my 35mm SLR always comes out oversaturated and it'd be nice to use that camera for something other than black and white. Have you tried Kodak Portra? The NC version is pretty laid back.
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# ¿ Sep 24, 2009 17:19 |
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# ¿ May 8, 2024 20:35 |
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Krispy Kareem posted:Awesome, that's exactly what I was looking for. And they even have 120 versions. Most of the film I've found locally is all about vivid colors. I only found the Agfa by accident, and now that of course is gone. Yeah, Agfa had some great films. I still have a roll of Portrait in the freezer together with lots and lots of Ultra 50. You'll like Portra NC, same "look" to it as the Agfa stuff.
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# ¿ Sep 24, 2009 17:53 |
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Not only that, but people whine about carrying spares when they can fit ten years' worth into a smaller space than a single film canister.
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# ¿ Sep 24, 2009 21:44 |
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Nice collection. A lot of people forget how small the classic film SLRs could be, and how big rangefinders actually are. Everyone pictures the Leica M as a 'small' camera when the thing (my *LEICA*) is a bit bigger than my OM2. Heavy, too. And for some reason everyone posts pictures of theirs looking all sexy with a naked lens when in reality you add a decent hood too, and the thing is anything but compact.
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# ¿ Sep 26, 2009 00:51 |
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killabyte posted:The holy grail of my freezer is a 150ft roll of Kodak Tech Pan that I can't bring myself to bulk load. I also have 2 boxes of Velvia 50 4x5 Quickloads that I am dying to use. My holy grails are the single rolls of Verichrome Pan and APX 25. And the 56 rolls of Ultra 50 I have to do something with before April... possibly the last Ultra 50 left in the world, but I have no idea what to use it for.
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# ¿ Oct 9, 2009 02:23 |
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woo woo wee woo Fall colors are going to rule. Eat your heart out Velvia. (Been frozen since 1999 or so, expires 2002, should be good since it's ISO 50)
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# ¿ Jul 14, 2013 15:34 |
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Quantum of Phallus posted:How much did that all cost? Did a lowball "best offer" on ebay and got the Fuji for 250 USD. Needed new light seals but I had plenty of material for that at home. The Ultra 50 I actually stocked up on back when it was discontinued. Today it would cost a small fortune, I see it going for 20-30 bucks a roll here and there when it shows up. I think I paid like 23 bucks a brick.
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# ¿ Jul 14, 2013 19:43 |
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So I have an M4 on the way, going to hop back into shooting some 35mm. What's the best bet for a classic looking B&W film on the market these days?
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# ¿ Jul 6, 2020 17:59 |
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Yond Cassius posted:Go buy a couple rolls each of Tri-X, HP5, and maybe FP4 if you want something smoother and finer-grained. Stick with the one that makes you happy. Oh, out of that bunch FP4 no doubt. But I saw there's a ton of B&Ws out there so was wondering if anything else might be worth a shot. Wish I could still get Verichrome Pan or Plus-X but those days are long gone.
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# ¿ Jul 6, 2020 19:26 |
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VoodooXT posted:You can still get Kodak Double X which is similar to Plus X (just faster) and from around the same time period. Well poo poo, this is interesting. I'll have to acquire a few rolls and check it out.
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# ¿ Jul 6, 2020 19:49 |
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Any of you shoot with the Ultron 35/1.7? Ordered one to use with the M4 since the Leica stuff has gone up way too much lately (honestly, $1100+ for a god drat Summaron?! People are nuts). Really like how it draws compared to e.g. Zeiss.
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# ¿ Jul 21, 2020 16:21 |
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Anybody want to help identify some poo poo? Won an auction for around 140 bucks, with the below: https://imgur.com/a/VyNncqF So far I've identified: Minolta XE-5 with 50/1.7? Canon EOS 300 with 35-105 Canon EOS 1000F with ??? (looks like some lovely zoom) Minolta 7000 with 35-80 POWER ZOOM Minolta Dynax 8000i with ??? (this camera looks kind of neat actually) Olympus 35 RC Praktica LTL with some Pentacon prime Voigtlander Vito? Not quite finding a matching one when I look online Minolta 3000i Minolta HiMatic AF2 Praktica that mostly but not quite looks like a Super TL I figured I could keep one or two and just sell the rest on auction site after checking them out and doing better descriptions.
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# ¿ Jul 23, 2020 18:48 |
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President Beep posted:Man, that XE-5 is cool. Too bad I’ve sworn off Minoltas newer than the SR-T line. I just picked up a beautiful SRT303b with the 35/2.8. The aperture blades are a bit sticky though so once I figure out where my spanner wrench has wandered off to I'll give cleaning them a go. Clayton Bigsby fucked around with this message at 20:29 on Jul 23, 2020 |
# ¿ Jul 23, 2020 20:27 |
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polyester concept posted:that's a vitomatic I Thanks! Just got a call from the seller who insisted on hand delivering the entire pile of gear since it was his uncle's and he was worried it might get damaged in shipping somehow. So will get it next week sometime. Hopefully some of the stuff is in working order, I figured that I might get a piece or two for my analog collection and part out the rest and recover the funds. Also got an offer today on a C330f without lenses in unknown condition (but cosmetically nice looking) for 70 bucks shipped. I figured these things are loving tanks so perhaps it might be fully functional. Not sure how much--if anything--can be tested without lenses though so maybe I will just acquire a 55 or 65mm and see what happens. I had a C330 (non F) many years ago and other than being extremely heavy for what it was (compared to the 124G I used at the same time) the other thing I recall was some uneven--but not overlapping--frame spacing. Apparently it's not an uncommon issue and is generally from some hard grease forming a lump in the wrong place. So that ought to be fixable without too much effort I imagine, should this one suffer from the same thing. Looking forward to getting back to more film shooting!
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# ¿ Jul 25, 2020 18:54 |
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Got the pile of gear today. 5 (!) like-new monopods, a couple tripods, a spotting scope, two VHS cameras (one looks completely new, plastic still on it), and all the cameras shown in the pics. Chatted with the seller a bit. It all belonged to his uncle who was a bit of a manic collector, and he suspected the cameras had been used a handful of times at most before he got bored and got another one. The Olympus 35RC looks like it's basically new and everything on it works, so that alone is probably worth what I paid for the whole mess. The XE-5 had a sticky winding lever initially, but after working it a bit it's perfectly fine again. It's a big ole brick with an awesome viewfinder, so it will probably remain with me. (edit: the light meter even works! ) Also got a handful of Tamron adaptall lenses (with Pentax mounts despite there not being a single Pentax camera in the collection). 300/5.6, 28/2.8, and some zoom. I think the two primes are considered halfway decent so can probably sell those off. Slowly going through the rest. The Canon SLRs power up and work fine, the Minolta ones have dead batteries so we'll see about those. Will need to locate a manual for the Praktica since I can't make sense of the controls on it. (edit:found one on Butkus) Overall a successful purchase I'd say. The C330F arrived in the mail as well today. Don't have any lenses but other than a broken film spool knob it seems to be in quite good condition and the mechanical poo poo moves smoothly. Clayton Bigsby fucked around with this message at 21:12 on Jul 29, 2020 |
# ¿ Jul 29, 2020 20:39 |
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New arrival! Bought a whole R kit and was going to resell it all, but yikesaroo, this might stick around for a bit. Holy poo poo what a heavy little bastard, and what a viewfinder...
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# ¿ Aug 6, 2020 18:45 |
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eggsovereasy posted:So my Olympus XA2 underexposes everything now. Like I can set it to ISO 25 and shoot it in a dark room and the shutter is open for half a second max. I've replaced the batteries and cleaned the contacts off and I don't really know what else to do. The stupid things are going for like $100 on ebay now which seems crazy so I don't really want to buy another one. Does anyone know something else I can try? If you adjust ISO while looking through this little plastic "window", do you see anything happen in there?
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# ¿ Aug 20, 2020 20:31 |
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eggsovereasy posted:Yeah it looks like something is moving in there, but it's hard to see exactly since the plastic cover is a bubble. Well, something should be moving so that part's alright then. Basically it's a hole / group of holes that gradually block off light to the CdS cell to compensate for the ISO change. Does it underexpose consistently, and approx by how much?
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# ¿ Aug 21, 2020 19:53 |
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eggsovereasy posted:Yeah I shot a roll and it was fine at the beginning and by the end it looked maybe about 2 or 3 stops under. So I thought it was the batteries fading, so I put new batteries in and then shot another roll and the entire roll was under except shots with the flash looked ok. The shutter button is a pretty common problem area on the XA models. Easy to address though: https://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=137072 The underexposure is weird. Most problems I can think of (aperture not stopping down fast enough, shutter dragging) would lead to overexposure.
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# ¿ Aug 22, 2020 18:18 |
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eggsovereasy posted:I wonder if a capacitor or something is at the end of its life and there isn't enough power to keep the shutter open. I think the XA basically charges a capacitor via the CdS and once charged the shutter closes. Wouldn't a leaky cap just be slower to charge and cause longer shutter times = overexposure?
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# ¿ Aug 22, 2020 21:01 |
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eggsovereasy posted:The LabBox seems really expensive to me. I don't really know what it gets me that traditional tanks and reels don't, maybe someone else has better insight on that. Anyway, it's cheaper to just buy an old style stainless steel or plastic tank and reels. I like stainless steel more, but others like plastic. You can also buy bigger tanks and more reels so you can do more rolls at once which can be a big time saver. It kind of looks like the typical Kickstarter project where you "reimagine" something that fixes an already well working process, make up some bullshit backstory, present it via a snazzy video and charge 300% more than it really ought to cost. I mean, for a couple hundred bucks you can probably score a used Jobo CPE2 and have full temp control and poo poo.
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# ¿ Aug 23, 2020 19:19 |
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trashy owl posted:While we're on about misguided attempts at being lazier, are the Plustek film scanners universally just not as good as a flatbed? Flatbeds are so big I use a Reflecta Crystalscan 7200. It is pretty small, easy to use, and gets you around 3300 dpi resolution.
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# ¿ Aug 24, 2020 09:56 |
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frogbs posted:Anyone here have experience with an Omega D-II enlarger (note, not the D-2, which is apparently distinct!)? They are pretty huge but very solid enlargers. Used one for about a decade in my home darkroom setup. Had a condenser head for it and some El-Nikkor lenses. Loved that beast.
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# ¿ Sep 2, 2020 19:38 |
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I would just use Diafine on it, give it 4-5 mins in A then same in B, minimal agitation (maybe three twisty inversions at the beginning, then just an inversion a minute or so). Diafine will yank a usable image out of just about anything no matter how old or weirdly exposed.
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# ¿ Sep 8, 2020 20:02 |
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Christ on a stick, wanted to pick up a Summaron 35/2,8 to replace the one I stupidly sold. Prices are up 100-150% over just 3-4 years ago when it comes to Leica gear. Used to be able to get an M3 here for like 400-450 bucks, good loving luck finding one for even twice that unless it's a complete beater. Maybe it's time to sell stocks and buy vintage gear. Anything else going up like crazy in value?
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# ¿ Oct 4, 2020 13:36 |
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King of Bees posted:645 cameras in my experience of watching auctions. 645 in general or particular brands/models? Been thinking about getting a Mamiya 645, perhaps I shouldn't wait too long. I managed to score a minty M4 this summer but that was mostly luck I think...
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# ¿ Oct 4, 2020 16:17 |
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PolishPandaBear posted:Yeah, the auto focus Mamiya 645 seems to be pretty pricey, and the RB/RZ is popular among the film Youtubers, so that's gonna go up in price too. The RZs seem to have never come down to reasonable price levels, but the RBs you basically couldn't give away not too long ago. Charming cameras, but massive tanks with a ridiculous number of interlocks and steps to taking pictures. Reliability wise though, they are like the AK47s of medium format. Clayton Bigsby fucked around with this message at 16:30 on Oct 4, 2020 |
# ¿ Oct 4, 2020 16:28 |
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eggsovereasy posted:Bronicas are flying under the radar, buy em up. Which ones are worth looking at? The S ones or the ERTSi? I see even Kowas are starting to pick up. Have a Six sitting here that I paid gently caress all for a while back. Trying to build up a small collection of cameras representing various types before prices creep up even higher. Suggestions are welcome! So far: "Nice" rangefinder: Leica M4 Small rangefinder: Olympus 35RC "Nice" SLR: Leica SL2 MOT Small enjoyable SLR: Olympus OM2 Medium format SLR: Kowa Six TLR: Rolleicord V Thinking about unload the Kowa since it's not a favorite of mine and replacing with something... probably not a Hasselblad since prices are higher than what I want to pay, maybe an RB67 would be a fun option here? Also need a medium format rangefinder, a half frame camera of some sorts, maybe a panoramic...? Trying to get most of the pieces serviced so that they are actually usable and not just decoration. The Rolleicord is off for a CLA tomorrow. Generally I try to find nice looking pieces that need some service. I figure most any older analog camera I buy should have a CLA so may as well target the cosmetically nicest ones that suffer from sticky shutters or something than a "decently" working beater.
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# ¿ Oct 4, 2020 18:14 |
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The Modern Sky posted:the Leica M4-2 will probably never get the love it deserves, but they’ve shot up in price too, like 200-600 since i bought mine. They are pretty nice cameras. Had a black one (maybe that was the more common one?) for a while and it was just like any other M body, despite not being German made. Wondering when/if the M5 will see some love too.
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# ¿ Oct 7, 2020 20:07 |
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The RB67 is also a bit of a paradox in that it's never broken but will also never fire the shutter.
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# ¿ Oct 11, 2020 19:05 |
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I just gotta Kramer into this thread and share this. Been dreading digitizing my negs and have made a couple of half assed attempts at scanning them but it takes so loving long. But found a solution that at least covers 35mm which is the vast majority of the poo poo I have (though there's plenty of 120/220 and some 4x5 but that's for later). Was at an old school analog photo store a couple of weeks ago and chatted with the owner for a while and he mentioned digitizing with his DSLR and said it was quick and easy. Was looking at maybe getting a light table and copy stand but came across a thing from JJC that's basically a LED light source with diffuser, a negative/slide holder and some adapter rings to fit various macro lenses: https://www.jjc.cc/index/goods/detail.html?id=1024 Next challenge was to easily convert the photographed negatives to something useful. Read up on it a bit and decided to go with Negative Lab Pro, though it's a bit costly at $99 for a license. But man, that poo poo works like _magic_ and seems to nail the colors in 95% of the cases. Fast and quick, integrated as a plugin into Lightroom Classic. Spent a couple of hours and have done nearly 200 images so far from negative to a useful state. Got a couple thousand more but I imagine I can knock that poo poo out in a week. Not sure what to do with the larger stuff though. I have an Epson V750 so maybe that's the easiest route for MF and LF? Or setup something so I can shoot them with a macro lens, but I would need something to keep everything perpendicular so presumably a copy stand or similar. Any ideas?
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# ¿ Jul 31, 2023 20:46 |
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Blackhawk posted:That's quite cool, I'd probably buy it mostly for the LED light that clamps on the end, but I already have the Nikon ES-2 which looks to be exactly the same thing just without the LED (and specifically designed to mount to a few different Nikon lenses). Sounds like I should shop around for a copy stand then. Seen them nearly-free occasionally but they don't show up for sale often here. I have the Nikon AF-S 60mm macro and Z7/Z8/Z9 bodies (using the Z7 for this project since I think the sensor is just a tiny bit better than the 8/9). You think an iPad would suffice as a light source, or would I need a diffuser on top of it?
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# ¿ Jul 31, 2023 21:39 |
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Blackhawk posted:Never tried with an ipad but I remember reading about people using them, I think they work ok if you have a bit of an air-gap between the negative and the screen to allow the light to diffuse a bit. One of the big advantages of using a tracing pad to me is that it's large enough to sit the Epson film holders on it, not sure if an ipad would be big enough for that and you want to make sure that the film holder is sitting flat and parallel to the camera sensor. I have a 12.9" Pro so maybe the holders would fit? Will have to try. BTW, does it seem like prices are coming down a bit on analog gear lately? Here in Sweden I'm seeing Leica and Hasselblad stuff at what I'd consider fairly reasonable prices sit unsold. Picked up a 500C kit with the Planar 80, completely serviced by a pro (lens, body and back), for $1300 just now. Seeing M3s with lenses for $1400-1700 in good condition and they aren't moving. Yeah, it's a lot more expensive than in the good old days (seems like you could get an M3 for $400 here 6-7 years back) but not Covid prices anymore. Clayton Bigsby fucked around with this message at 13:21 on Aug 1, 2023 |
# ¿ Aug 1, 2023 13:17 |
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Well I tried DF96 and it was a big fat blah so I am going back to Diafine now. Just reliably produces really good negs for me, not sure why I had to go try other poo poo. I think I was hoping to skip using fixer. On a happier note, I found a Hassy 500ELX is nice condition for 300 bucks here and it had the grid + split image acute matte focusing screen. loving things go for 400-450 bucks used here. Swapped it into my 500C/M and hooooly poo poo what a difference. But now I have a 500 EL/M and a 500 ELX that I bought just for the poo poo that came with them so gotta sell those. Clayton Bigsby fucked around with this message at 19:54 on Aug 25, 2023 |
# ¿ Aug 25, 2023 19:49 |
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MadlabsRobot posted:VVVVVVV Well, I was hoping that I could avoid paying up for Lightroom for now and instead use stuff that is free (such as Darktable) or paid for by my work (the Affinity suite). VVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVV Negadoctor and Darktable? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DiNlHBZE888
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# ¿ Aug 26, 2023 20:55 |
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dupersaurus posted:Why would you want that? I can think of two reasons. First it makes it possible to “pause” a roll by rewinding it then when you want to use the rest of it just put the lens cap on and fire the shutter until you are back where you were. Second, if you develop in your own it’s easier if you can just grab the leader instead of using a tool to extract it.
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# ¿ Oct 14, 2023 15:24 |
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illcendiary posted:When you’re getting developing at home taking the leader out sucks, I made that mistake once manually winding my AE-1, never again. I just bought a Nikon F4 and I’m pretty sure I’m never going to use its auto-rewind. I just use a bottle opener on 35mm rolls, fishing for the leader is a major PITA even with the right tools.
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# ¿ Oct 14, 2023 16:29 |
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# ¿ May 8, 2024 20:35 |
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illcendiary posted:I’m still relatively new (only developed about 6 rolls at home), but being able to use the leader to start the roll on the reel in broad daylight before the bag transfer was so much easier than my first developing headache (cracked can open in bag, fumbled around with loose film for half an hour, scratched and tore everything) that I can’t imagine going back What kind of reels are you using? I've personally found that just about anything works _except_ for the stainless steel 35mm ones that are an absolute bitch to load. For 120 I like stainless but the Paterson plastic ones are fine so compromised on a Paterson tank with the adjustable reels which work for either format. But I usually snip the leader off the 35mm stuff to make it easier to load. Honestly, the best thing to do is grab a roll and work in daylight, then once you feel you've got it down close your eyes, then finally do it in a bag. It's kind of like riding a bike in that once you "get" it you'll have the skill for life. I hadn't loaded a roll of 120 in over a decade and had zero problems doing it; your fingers just remember.
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# ¿ Oct 14, 2023 20:42 |