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I've been looking for a medium-format SLR for some time and just today found one for sale. (a Hasselblad 500 C/M with a Zeiss T* 80mm lens). It's a little over half the price that they usually sell for here used (in Denmark). So naturally I'm worried about buying a lemon. Is there anything in particular I should check for, besides trying out all the shutter-times and making sure the lens isn't scratched?
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Jul 19, 2008 17:56
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| # ¿ May 14, 2024 08:27 |
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I got a bag of expired Fomapan F17/F21, I think it's Czechoslovakian. Is it equivalent to the Fomapan on the massive development chart?
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Apr 20, 2011 20:12
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Is there a general concensus on what reels to buy? I use the white patterson-reels with the little ball-bearings for 4 rolls of 120 today and I feel a year older from the experience. I like them well enough for 35mm but not for 120. I remember 120 being fidgety, but not this much. What do you all use?
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Apr 27, 2011 20:43
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Ric posted:Those. I periodically load stainless ones with no ball-bearing advance for machine processing too, so appreciate the Paterson ones. So are mine just lovely/gunked up? The bearings kept getting stuck and blocking the film. Maybe I just need to start developing more often instead of figuring I could do 8 rolls in an afternoon. After not developing anything for 2 years.
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Apr 27, 2011 21:22
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nielsm posted:Sure you let the reels dry? At least my experience has been that loading film (mainly 120) onto damp Paterson reels is drat near impossible. Maybe, though the first film was the one that was the hardest. I'll try bringing some extra reels next time.
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Apr 27, 2011 22:09
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How long do you generally wash for? E: and do you use 20C or just cold water? E2: Negatives, how long do you wash negatives. Prathm fucked around with this message at 20:17 on May 18, 2011 |
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May 18, 2011 20:08
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Noob-question: Do these look properly developed to you? I think the first one lacks a little contrast, but that could just be the exposure. It's expired tmax 100 in 1+20 ultrafin for 12+5 minutes. 17 seems a little long to me, but it said on the bottle to use a prolongation-factor of 1.4 for developing more than one film.   
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Jun 5, 2011 13:56
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guidoanselmi posted:looks good to me, but i haven't dev'd tmax 100 in ultrafin. it looks low contrast, but that likely will vary with how you agitate Is there a rule of thumb for that? Like more agitation = less contrast?
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Jun 5, 2011 20:25
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mysticp posted:The opposite. More agitation gives you more contrast. That's good to know. Does more agitation mean "agitate more often" or "agitate more in total"? Say I had developed that roll at 5 sec agitation every 30 instead of 10 sec agitation every minute. Would that have given me more contrast, or the same?
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Jun 5, 2011 21:50
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| # ¿ May 14, 2024 08:27 |
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Ciro-Flex posted:If you use a non-hardening fixer like Ilford Rapid Fixer you can skip the Perma Wash. Is that a general thing for "rapid" fixers? I use a tetenal rapid fixer and I've never used perma wash. e: ..and my negs seem fine.
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Jul 8, 2011 22:39
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