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DeadlyMuffin
Jul 3, 2007


visuvius posted:

Flatworms. Any tips?

I got a bottle of Flatworm Exit and I will follow the instructions closely but let me know if you guys have any other tips.

The instructions say to use a pound of fresh carbon after dosing which seems like a shitload to me. I'm using BRS ROX carbon which is supposed to be really high quality stuff so hopefully I can use way less in my reactor.

I used Levamisole for flatworms when I was completely overrun a couple years ago. The problem I had was when the worms die they release some sort of poison into the water. It wasn't a huge issue when I was trying to remove them mechanically, but when I dosed the tank and a bunch started dying at once it was hard on the fish. If you're going to do some sort of medication I'd suggest removing as many as you can mechanically first, and being ready to do a huge water change (or two).

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DeadlyMuffin
Jul 3, 2007


I've been lurking in this thread on and off for ages, and I wanted to pop in and thank whoever it was that recommended Reef Chili a while ago. I've started feeding that and a mix of cyclopeeze to my corals and things have really started to take off.

DeadlyMuffin
Jul 3, 2007


I don't know if it's the reef chili or the freeze dried cylopeeze or the combination of both, since I mix them together. Either way, my corals are a hell of a lot happier than they used to be.

I bought into the "just feed your fish and have strong lights and corals will do fine" nonsense for the longest time, and always wondered why nothing really thrived despite perfect water parameters.

Now I know!

DeadlyMuffin
Jul 3, 2007


api call girl posted:

It's true if your bioload balance is good and you have a full nutrient cycle.

(Hard to achieve in a barebottom nano)

I'm not sure I buy that. This tank has gone through a lot of iterations, including as an 80 gallon for a few years.

It's not like fish poo poo is the main coral food source on natural reefs.

DeadlyMuffin
Jul 3, 2007


I figured that a skimmer serves the same function of oxygenating the water. Bubbles can look nice though.

DeadlyMuffin
Jul 3, 2007


I haven't posted in a while, so here's my tank:



It's a 10 gallon rimless with a 10 gallon sump. Mostly hammer corals and Duncans, but there's some other stuff as well. I really like hammers and I've tried to pick up interesting color variations of them.



I really like this guy. It's more brown/golden colored in person than it is in this picture.



This one's almost cyan. I'm hoping it'll start splitting soon, it's two heads and they've been slowly growing apart.



Top view showing a couple other hammers. The solid purple one is an ORA hammer; I really like the coloration and it seems super hardy, but it isn't growing as fast as I'd like.



Duncans! I got one head ages ago, and it's turned into this guy. The growth seems to have plateaued though, and I'd like to figure out how to restart it. When my tank was dirtier (and I was fighting algae issues) this guy was growing like crazy. I'm hoping I can get it going again with spot feedings, since I'd rather not let my tank get out of whack again.



Another shot of the Duncans



Another hammer. This guy seems to be growing nicely, it was 2 heads when I got it.



And my one fish! A yellowtail damsel that's kind of a dick, but provides a lot of personality to the tank. I used to have two, then one vanished. I added another one, and that one vanished too, so I'm thinking my limit is one.



Sump shot. It's kind of amazing how much algae grows under the light in there, and how little I get in the display tank up top. It's really a testament to the impact of spectrum.


These were all shot under a blue LED, which makes color correction to how they appear in person a bit difficult. I'm thinking next time I'll shoot them during the day where I have some natural light.

DeadlyMuffin
Jul 3, 2007


bryopsis is hair algae?

I've missed the discussion so I'm sorry if you're repeating yourself, but what are your nutrient levels like, and how are you exporting nutrients?

DeadlyMuffin
Jul 3, 2007


That's brutal. Cutting nutrients is the only thing I could think of; I guess that's why you're looking into chemicals to knock it back.

I guess my worry would be that there's some underlying condition in the tank making the growth favorable, and if you just clean it off and restart you'd end up back in the same boat later.

DeadlyMuffin
Jul 3, 2007


visuvius posted:

Thats awful Enos, I feel for you. poo poo like that just takes all the fun out of the hobby. For me it was apstasia for the longest time, now that I've solved that problem, I'm seeing little colonies of bubble algae popping up. I loving hate it. Water parameters and maintenance have been on point so I have no idea what the gently caress is happening.


loving aptasia :-(

I hate that it never completely goes away. It always creeps back and needs to be knocked out again.

DeadlyMuffin
Jul 3, 2007


Frozen Pizza Party posted:

That's pretty high, and you should buy a cheap pump to circulate your mix, just drop it in overnight and it's ready to go in the morning!

My method is to have a 5 gallon bucket that permanently has a cheap pump and heater in it.

For weekly water changes I pour in water + salt, plug in the pump and heater and let it mix. Once it's mixed I unplug the bucket, toss my ATO pump into it, and then vacuum ~4 gallons from the display tank into a second bucket. One I'm done I toss the ATO pump back and that's it until next week.

It works pretty well for my little system at least, although I'm sure it helps that I run bare bottom. I always had issues over time with gravel or sand.

DeadlyMuffin
Jul 3, 2007


I'd get an adjustable one. I like to run my tanks a little warmer than 78 though.

DeadlyMuffin
Jul 3, 2007


I downsized from a 55+35 sump to a 10 gallon (now with a sump) years ago and love it.

Being able to easily do large regular water changes makes things really easy.

Every time I think about upgrading I change my mind since the 10 is so much fun. I'd probably do a second tank before I upgraded

DeadlyMuffin
Jul 3, 2007


Rallos posted:

I was gonna say dang that's a lot of coralline.

Sure is. I'm curious what lights they're using. I've read that coralline really thrives with dimmer, bluer light.

DeadlyMuffin
Jul 3, 2007


Seems like you'd have an algae covered bottle that you couldn't easily clean.

Edit: poking around, it looks like a lot of those tiny tanks work due to large water changes and taking corals out occasionally to kill algae and scrub glass. I don't think it'll work with that tiny neck

DeadlyMuffin fucked around with this message at 19:13 on Dec 29, 2016

DeadlyMuffin
Jul 3, 2007


Plus any rock or coral you put in would have to fit through that neck.

It's your tank obviously but the idea of that narrow neck makes me really nervous.

DeadlyMuffin
Jul 3, 2007


Please post lots of pictures!!! I'm very curious about the idea but paranoid about killing things...

DeadlyMuffin
Jul 3, 2007


Enos Cabell posted:

More dumb rear end tourists taking selfies with dying sealife, or is it worse than that?

Florida local towing a shark behind a boat at speed and laughing with his friends about it.

DeadlyMuffin
Jul 3, 2007


I'm jealous. Some day I'll be able to keep btas, but right now my tank is just too small (not to mention too full).

DeadlyMuffin
Jul 3, 2007


Mak0rz posted:

We have a big 105 gallon (400L) coldwater tank that's overstuffed because the zoology instructors went nuts. We have a super efficient bio filter so the nitrogen waste numbers are great but I'm concerned about the carbonate levels with all of those new molluscs and other shellmakers in there. What kind of numbers am I looking for here?

Also the guy I'm filling in for suggested adding CaCO3 solution to it if the carbonate hardness goes out of whack but I don't know how much I should be throwing in. I don't want to accidentally end up with 400 liters of cold salty acid :ohdear:

You can use a two-part method to individually adjust Calcium and alkalinity, but they're coupled (along with pH). This write-up is helpful: http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-02/rhf/index.php

How are you doing biological filtration? I've always wanted to do a cold water tank

DeadlyMuffin
Jul 3, 2007


Bulky Bartokomous posted:

RODI is not recommend for freshwater aquariums. They need the dissolved minerals. You could add some stuff back in but there are very few situations where it is worth the hassle.

What minerals? I've been using rodi on my fw tank for years, since I already have it for the sw tank. If you're compensating for evaporation I'd think you'd want really pure water since minerals are left behind.

DeadlyMuffin
Jul 3, 2007


What camera did you get? How do you like it?

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DeadlyMuffin
Jul 3, 2007


If you're open to killing them, you could try kalk paste, like people do for aptasia.

It's funny, I've always wanted to do an anenome tank, and it's on my list for some day when I have room.

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