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I just got my welder set up for the first time in a year and a half, and I'm not sure that my electronic helmet is darkening as far as it should. I got it under lights for a while to charge it up, and it does darken when it's near a bright light or an arc, but looking at the arc was painful. I just used the mask that came with the welder instead, but is there anything I can do to check it or adjust it? I'm pretty sure it's this model.
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Feb 21, 2010 08:36
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http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000I9WFAG/ref=wms_ohs_product No guarantees on how long it will work, but it is massively cheap. Mine still works. Be warned though- the replacement cutting discs amazon recommends have a different size arbor hole than the arbor provided with the saw. If you want to use them you'll have to go get a different arbor.
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Oct 10, 2010 19:00
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I'm looking to buy a used AC/DC stick welder. Am I better off going with a newer (model currently available) Lincoln 225/125 or an older Miller thunderbolt, the kind with the crank handle on top? (see pic) From what I have read the Miller has better adjustment and probably goes up to 150 dc amps, but in the past I have always used Lincolns and they seemed to work fine.
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Jul 14, 2013 19:06
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I just scored a Lincoln tombstone ac/dc welder for $125.00 from an elderly gentleman who is beginning to clear out his shop. He's got an amazing collection of tools including a south bend lathe that he bought from the company he used to work for, and also a mill! I'm definitely interested in buying the lathe if I've got the money when he sells it. I'm going to figure out if the mill will even fit in my house for when he decides to sell it. Anyway, he's got a vintage craftsman horizontal bandsaw he wants to sell as well. I believe it's a 6 inch saw. I'm sure it was immaculately maintained. He said he'd want $125.00 for it. Good buy? I'm inclined to think so as my next project will be building a welding table and the instructions on the miller website recommend one. On the other hand, I did just buy a chop saw, but it's new and nowhere near as cool or well made as the older stuff seems to be. Any real reason not to get the saw?
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Aug 27, 2013 22:55
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I'm trying to repair a wire cooling rack. One of the joints broke. The rack appears to be made out of 1/8" stainless wire. I applied normal flux and attempted to solder with lead free solder, but it just bounced off the joint and won't stick. What's the right way to repair this joint in a food safe manner? Do I need to get a special flux for stainless, or can I just file both sides of the joint to break through the oxide layer and use normal flux? Is solder marked lead free ok, or do I need special food safe rated solder?
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Aug 19, 2019 17:44
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Nice, thanks.
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Aug 19, 2019 17:58
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That's a good point. Maybe I'll just tie it in with some tightly twisted stainless wire. It is probable that the cost of materials will far exceed the value of the unit in question. This is a $12 cooling rack that can still be exchanged at the store that sold it, it just seemed like a shame to throw out the whole thing because of one broken solder joint. I figured if I could fix it with stuff I had in the basement I would.
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Aug 19, 2019 19:45
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I'm gonna build a workbench out of square tube, angle iron, and plate. I've got a good set of plans. What's the best way to clamp things and keep them square while I construct this? I'm willing to buy new equipment, but I don't have a workbench to clamp it to.
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Apr 17, 2020 07:42
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Cool (haha), thanks for the links. I'll pick up a speed square and see what kinda clamps are recommended. Also, I'm using a 110v mig welder with gas. does anyone have a good video on getting good results with that? I also have a 220v stick welder, but I don't have an outlet for it in the workshop yet.
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Apr 18, 2020 22:37
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I'm making a welding workbench with 2"'x2" square steel tubing for the legs. I want some sort of adjustable feet on it because my floors aren't level. I've been looking at stuff like: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MKPXSYK/ There's a lot in this style. I figure I'd just weld them to the side of the leg at the bottom. I don't really like that the foot would be offset from the leg to the outside though. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P5WTWH6/ These look like they could maybe go inside the leg, which I'd prefer. Any better options or suggestions? Should I just weld a nut on a plate and weld that to the bottom of the legs? A separate question: What fan should I buy to ventilate my basement workshop? I'll be doing some mig welding, 3d printing, and occasionally stick welding. I plan to mount the fan in a bracket and duct the exhaust out through the exterior wall. I've been browsing fans and fume extractors but I haven't read anything in terms of what volume of cfm or partiflcular model of fan is a good solution for getting welding fumes out of an interior workspace. Any suggestions? Is there one that is the standard?
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Dec 30, 2020 22:32
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honda whisperer posted:https://www.mcmaster.com/leveling-feet/nickel-plated-steel-swivel-leveling-mounts-with-threaded-stud/ Ok, heavy duty feet ordered from McMaster-carr. Thanks for the link!
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Dec 31, 2020 06:43
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Thanks for the links! I read through a bit of them. Honestly I'm not going to be doing a large amount of welding. It'll be occasional. But I want effective ventilation to get the fumes out of the house. Right now I've got nothing, so something will be better than nothing. I'll probably end up going for something moderately priced and quiet. Likely a variable speed control will be nice to have. I found what looks like some good discussion here: https://forum.weldingtipsandtricks.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=14409 A rule of thumb appears to be 6-10 air exchanges per hour, so I'll calculate CFM based on that. But it's hobby usage, it's not a fabrication facility.
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Dec 31, 2020 12:10
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I just got a $200 tig welder off ebay! I have no experience tig welding! Anyone got any good resources for absolute beginner tig welding? I've done a small amount of mig, stick, and gas welding, but no tig. I haven't bought a gas cylinder for it yet and probably won't get to it today so I'm watching some youtube vids and planning on setting it up next week.
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Jan 15, 2021 22:05
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Motronic posted:Noice. The weld.com videos were pretty useful for me. Ones like this: Cool. I've seen videos from weld.com before, Mr Tig is new. I'll check 'em out
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Jan 15, 2021 22:39
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Ambrose Burnside posted:iirc grinder thermite has actually been implicated in shop fires before, i guess the deal is that grinders make a lot of metal particles in a range of sizes, and their weight kind of sorts them by mass as you get further away from the grinder, like winnowing grain by throwing it in the air to let the wind separate the lightweight chaff. so, far away from the grinder, up in the dust in the rafters or w/e, you can slowly accrete very fine particles that produce something closer to nanothermite, in that they're both more violently-energetic and are also easier to ignite. so that state of affairs persists until a sufficient ignition source, potentially much cooler than a conventional thermite ignition primary- oily shop cloth flare-up in a bin, that sort of thing- is present, and it preheats the accidental thermite until it's off to the races This sounds like the solution to a mystery novel
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Jan 27, 2021 22:49
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Ok thread, I have a question here: I bought this split die for chasing/cutting threads. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DYFHURE/ There's a single set screw. There's one single threaded hole in the body of the die. By tightening the set screw down all the way the die can be opened very slightly. But loosening the set screw does nothing to close the gap at all. It worked to chase the threads that I needed to clean up, but I just don't see how it would cut threads to full depth. Is this a manufacturing defect? or does it sound like it's operating correctly and the only adjustment should be between minimum width with the gap at it's resting size and slightly wider with the tiny set screw all the way in?
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Jan 29, 2021 13:17
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I don't. I had assumed I had one when I bought it, but it turns out I just had a tap handle that I bought when I needed to cut threads into something quite a while back. Then the die worked for chasing the threads so I didn't realize a holder would be necessary for other operations. So the die holder squeezes it down?
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Jan 29, 2021 13:35
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Nice work! Got a link to your house thread?
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Mar 19, 2021 04:58
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I realize this isn't an answer to your question, but if it's at your house and not a commercial space I'd just strip it and let it get marked up through use. I had a copper top table that I left out on my deck. It looked great and I'd scrub it with barkeepers friend and lemon juice every few years when it got too weathered.
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Mar 23, 2021 09:26
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I finally have the parts for my workshop exhaust fan project. I went with an 8 inch grow tent style inline fan, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WGPJ2MQ/, a big rubber 8 => 6 inch reducer, and 6 inch pipe, elbow, and end cap.
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Mar 26, 2021 00:23
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Last summer I cut through 100 ft extension cord the first time i used it
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May 1, 2021 05:15
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There are tig welders for $200 on ebay that supposedly work ok. I got one a while back, haven't used it yet so I can't say if it actually works. But there are youtube videos of it working
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May 6, 2021 04:57
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Bad Munki posted:Harbor Freight ring roller rolls rings just fine for my needs, thanks. Oh man, I didn't even know that was a thing
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Sep 1, 2021 21:42
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That's really cool! Welll done.
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Sep 18, 2021 04:54
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6-MC_ZEXQbw
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Oct 24, 2021 22:16
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What's the best way of doing a straight "rip cut" on sheet steel? I've got a piece of 20 gauge mild steel and right now I'm planning on clamping it down and using an angle grinder with a cutting wheel. But if there's a better method/tool I'm open to it.
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Feb 29, 2024 00:02
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Ah, it's 18 gauge. So a bit thicker than 20. I got it wrong in my first post. And it's 9 inches wide. I have a plasma cutter but it's not cnc. I wouldn't say I'm good with it but maybe this is a chance to practice. I have a 4 inch throatless shear that I just bought but it seems like it'd bend it up a bit. https://www.harborfreight.com/throatless-shear-38413.html
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Feb 29, 2024 04:05
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I just did a couple of test bends with my metal brake. They came out more rounded than I'd like. I'm hoping to roughly match the sort of mildly rounded 90 degree corners of square tube. Is that realistic? What can I do to tighten up the corners? I'm planning on trying different positions of the clamping plate. I'm also going to try scoring the outside edge of the bend to give the metal a natural break point. Anything else I ought to do?
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Mar 3, 2024 02:49
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You were only half a mile down the road from NW Beef Express. Wait outside for someone to take a smoke break, slip in the door & you coulda spent the night cozy & snug inside a hanging beef carcass
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Mar 15, 2024 02:03
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Possibly naive question here: I bought a cheap die and handle set off amazon. Some of the dies are much smaller than the handle: And there are some dies the retaining screws don't even reach. Am I doing it wrong? Is there some inner adapter I don't have? Is it just cheap and bad and doesn't work?
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Mar 18, 2024 18:26
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| # ¿ May 13, 2024 14:53 |
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Thanks, I'll return it for a good set
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Mar 18, 2024 18:39
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