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I got a pretty good job offer and start Monday as a machinist. Wish me luck.henne posted:I have no idea where to start on choosing tooling and deciding things like depth of cut on the mill and lathe, travel and stock RPM for the lathe or setting up cutting tools in the holders. Any recommendations for books that cover those topics while not dealing with the basics? Call a tool rep. They will provide all of this info and provide you with lots of information about what is out there. Valenite, Kennametal, whoever, but I'd start with whatever company you plan on buying most of the tooling for your shop from. Thats said, this should be your starting point: Dongsmith posted:I've got a copy of Machinery's Handbook and it is chock full of charts and tables and graphs. It's probably almost exactly what you are looking for, as it is way over my head. AnomalousBoners fucked around with this message at 05:45 on Sep 13, 2010 |
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Sep 13, 2010 05:42
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Taught myself how to use MasterCAM in about 10 minutes, took like two days to get this drat part running though. First part made at my new job on the VMC with MasterCam. I love my new job, its extremely interesting and pays great/ Its a 4 man business run by an 80 year old engineer who is building things I don't understand. There are very few thins that once explained to me I still do not understand but god drat I guess microwave devices to detect heartbeats through walls on a HMMV are one of those things that I cant totally grasp the principles of yet. Also should expand my aluminum welding skills. I also get to work whenever I want and have a key. Unfortunately my school work and girlfriend keep me from working as much as I want. Girlfriend is more fun and school is more important, and no Susie I didn't just add that because I know you lurk my posts like a creeper. AnomalousBoners fucked around with this message at 12:38 on Sep 23, 2010 |
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Sep 23, 2010 12:35
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IDK about MIG but I have never once used over ~150A at home on my TIG and that includes AC on aluminum.
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Nov 23, 2010 13:10
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The Scientist posted:Hey is AnomalousBoners still around? Yea that sounds pretty cool. I am just getting into microcontroller poo poo. What are you using to control your robot? Heads up though I am super busy with school-work-goon gf. Do you go to UCF?
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Nov 24, 2010 20:56
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I have machined rebar before and you can usually see layers of carbide just sitting in it.Its seriously the lowest quality possible of scrap metal.
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Nov 25, 2010 00:21
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You can machine galvanized stuff (though I cant think of any galvanized thing you would be machining)because the zinc should stay deposited on the chip. Also you can simply grind zinc off the area (well past the heat affected zone) to be welded and weld in a well ventilated space. Its a hell of a lot faster and easier. Also I am sending you a PM. EDIT: No i am not you cheap bastard. Do you have AIM or Facebook?
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Nov 25, 2010 04:16
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Adam is fat and gay for pay
AnomalousBoners fucked around with this message at 04:34 on Nov 25, 2010 |
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Nov 25, 2010 04:26
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Go to harbor freight and buy the cheapest angle grinder and some cutoff wheels. I bought mine from there on sale for $10.
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Nov 25, 2010 04:54
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You can carve out wood and melt solder into it pretty easily. The finish is poo poo though.
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Nov 30, 2010 05:19
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You could probably also carve what you wanted out of wax, coat it in plaster, melt out the wax, and then fill with solder (tin) that you melt in a steel cup with a torch. As far as the wastercooler tig, my tig torch has never once gotten too hot to use. Maybe if youre welding all day it's different. AnomalousBoners fucked around with this message at 15:38 on Nov 30, 2010 |
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Nov 30, 2010 15:34
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Yea pewter and solder are both mostly tin.
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Nov 30, 2010 18:13
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I remember wanting a Miller but I have no idea why that was. I think I could get them cheaper at the time I was looking ~4 years ago.
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Nov 30, 2010 18:32
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I wasnt aware of that and havent ever used plaster but you burn out the wax before pouring in the metal anyway. It is common to use plaster to take the place of wax.The Scientist posted:Tig uses shielding gas, right? Its not really a hose that leads to the electrode. The electrode is in a collet which is held by a rigid often plastic torch which the line of gas flow into The coils would have to spiral around in the torch and I'd much rather have a torch that I need to let cool off (and can just switch out torches while it does) than be welding with an annoyingly heavy one. AnomalousBoners fucked around with this message at 06:07 on Dec 1, 2010 |
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Dec 1, 2010 06:04
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No, the electrode is tungsten, it won't melt. Inert gas flows over it to shield the arc and prevent what would otherwise be extremely fast oxidation in the weld puddle. The water cooling cools the actual part of the torch that you hold. It is pretty common to TIG weld without a gloved hand holding the torch. This is also the only manly way to get an artificial tan. Also I don't think TIG welders have transformers anymore, I think most/all machines went to inverters so that they aren't the size of busses. I could be wrong on this point, however.
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Dec 1, 2010 12:46
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Pulse time and duty cycle are not at all the same thing when talking about welding
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Dec 3, 2010 04:26
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Honestly you really truly can teach yourself welding and machining. Start by buying an actual machining textbook such as the one I used and recommend as it has lots of pictures: http://www.amazon.com/Machining-Fundamentals-Basic-Advanced-Techniques/dp/1566376629 ($22) Or for a very basic very easy to read welding book: (I have the previous edition) http://www.amazon.com/Welders-Handbook-RevisedHP1513-Cutting-Oxyacetylene/dp/1557885133/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1291776807&sr=1-1 ($12) Just dont gently caress around with baby lathes, mill/drill combos, smithys, etc. Save up some money, keep an RSS feed of craigslist and eBay, and when the opportunity to snatch up a > 12" lathe or a bridgeport mill for less than $1000 comes up, snatch it up. You can make your own DROs for next to nothing using an Arduino and a digital caliper and eBay/toolbox sale hunting will get your lathe/mill running on the cheap. If you want to teach yourself to weld and don't have any money, just watch craigslist. You absolutely can teach yourself this poo poo and if you want to be an engineer it is a very very good investment. Once you start teaching yourself you can probably get a job doing it professionally by just keeping an ad on craigslist and watching for any jobs hat come across. Companies just don't want a blank slate.
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Dec 8, 2010 03:56
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IDk how I missed the part about ordering things from grainger but pretty much anything from there is either a little or a lot over priced. I order small things from them occasionally because they are 15 minutes away but drat do they suck compared to MSC or eBay on a lot of stuff. EDIT: Also, This: http://classicbroncos.com/homemade-welder.shtml
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Dec 8, 2010 03:58
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I know its basic but Ive seen a big difference when grinding the wrong way. of course always grind with the length of the tungsten so that they grains point toward your tip. I always just kiss the wheel with the end after I grind it sharp. If the wheel is new and doesn't already have a groove I'd try to dress it in the approximate angle you use.
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Dec 8, 2010 06:26
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Slung Blade posted:I found 4140 in my shop's scrap bin. That's kind of like a gold mine. Please don't weld it, TIA
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Dec 9, 2010 00:13
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Lots of good questions about machining YAY:The Scientist posted:If I'm machining mild steel mostly, would I be satisfied by tools like drill bits, taps and dies, etc made out of HSS? I guess its considerably harder than the stock, and as long as I make sure to keep it cool so that neither the tool nor the part lose its temper, would I be in good shape? Hss is suitable for mild steels even many tool steels in their annealed state. It is perfectly suitable for mild steels and you can look up speeds and feeds online quite readily for them. (Though for tool steels you'll be running pretty low speeds and feeds and really should be using coolant when you could just be using carbide.) Cobalt bits are HSS bit but with come cobalt added to the alloy. See the wikipedia article on HSS about this. TiN coated bits are HSS bits. The various coatings on drill bits just helps with wear resistance, friction reduction and chip removal except black oxide which stop things from rusting (poorly). Don't confuse black oxide with any of the black or brown in color coatings that do do the things I mentioned above. There are more than one coatings which are black. Also you very rarely see taps that aren't HSS. The Scientist posted:In fact, an adjunct question: HSS tool blanks like the kind you hand grind for turning on a lathe bits are just that, ground. However HSS cutters like endmills are made by milling (with a carbide or maybe CBN endmill) and then sent to heat treat and then ground. After HSS has been heat treated it is generally ground.
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Dec 13, 2010 06:23
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I didnt learn a single thing that I said in college. I learned it in machinist school and through teaching myself (often while IN machinist school.) EDIT: Also everything I said could be found in that book I suggested.
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Dec 13, 2010 08:41
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Cryoforged is absolutely a marketing term. Its a portmanteau of two completely seperate processes one of which quite uncommon to drill bit manufacture the other completely unrelated. (Cryogenics and forging respectively) Your cobalt questions are addressed here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High_speed_steel I believe you select what medium to quench your tool in based on what tool steel alloy youre using. E.G. O1 tool steel is oil, A2 is air, etc. When using steel that follows SAE designations (e.g. 1020) I am not sure though. HSS is called that because you could run it at higher speeds (RPM wise) than the carbon steel drill bits that were used previous and which are almost nonexistant today. Today's high speed steel would be cobalt drill bits (M42) which can be run at higher speeds than HSS bits can. Cutting velocity directly affect heat even if the same volume of chips are being removed. (It'll be a hell of a lot higher for a thinner chip [slower feed] and higher RPM actually) If you're interested in understanding forces at the cutting tool and how changes affect them (a very useful concept in machining) check out the book Fundamentals of Tool Design on Google Books. there is a chapter dealing with this and includes some very very important info on things like nose radius, rake angle, resultant cutting force vectors and the reason behind the + change in velocity = + change in heat thing I just mentioned. I read it on google books for a paper I wrote and ended up buying the older edition. Very good purchase at $20: http://www.amazon.com/Fundamentals-Design-Society-Manufacturing-Engineers/dp/0872634906 AnomalousBoners fucked around with this message at 09:41 on Dec 15, 2010 |
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Dec 15, 2010 09:32
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You only use HSS in hobby milling/drilling because carbide is prone to cracking especially when the surface speed is too low and and the max RPM on manual machines are almost always too low for carbide cutters under 1" diameter.
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Dec 16, 2010 21:56
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Wait...WHAT? That was pretty hard to follow, please edit to show what you said and what he said. EDIT: So to be clear you just committed multiple felonies and misdemeanors and then posted about them on a public forum known for getting people arrested. In this story you saw a person in a car minding their own business and in order to prevent them from having gay sex in a men's room, you approached them hostilely then brandished a knife/brass knuckles combination. Correct? Quoting for crazy: The Scientist posted:Hi, my name is The Scientist and I had a bad metalworking day. AnomalousBoners fucked around with this message at 04:33 on Jan 10, 2011 |
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Jan 10, 2011 04:21
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Ok so to be clear of facts. Not how you felt, just facts about actions: He was sitting in his car. He had not talked to you or if he had, he had not made any threat toward you. You approached his car and begun a conversation with him. A conversation between you two became escalated and he got out of his car. You felt threatened when he got out of his car. You pulled a knife/brass knuckles combo on him.
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Jan 10, 2011 04:44
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How many times did you call the police that day?
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Jan 10, 2011 04:45
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Geeee this situation makes me uncomfortable, also I believe people are committing a crime. I could -get in my car and leave to find the nearest payphone OR -accost this person I suspect of being a SEXUAL DEVIANT and then pull a knife on him and then post about it on the internet. Clearly the the one where I go to jail is the correct decision.
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Jan 10, 2011 05:20
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| # ¿ May 12, 2024 05:52 |
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I'm not trying to make you feel bad. Honestly I am trying to discourage you from ever making any of these decisions again. If this all didn't seem completely made up I would call the police. It is legitimately terrifying that you: -Think you are the moral police to the point of having a weapon with you while acting as the moral police. -Initiated a conflict while carrying said weapon. -Escalated the conflict and the presented said weapon in a threatening manner. -Defend initiating said conflict as though you were not the one that started it because someone in a public park was looking at you and that made you feel threatened. Do you do realize that had that person had a gun in his car, he would have the legal right to shoot and kill you in the state of Florida? Do you realize that under 790.09 owning brass knuckles is a 2nd degree misdemeanor? Its like you have no concept of how morally and legally in the wrong you are here. Also if youre going to have a weapon in Florida read this whole thing: http://www.leg.state.fl.us/statutes/index.cfm?App_mode=Display_Statute&URL=0700-0799/0790/0790ContentsIndex.html I bet I could find at least three laws you admitted to breaking in JUST chapter 790.
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Jan 10, 2011 07:00
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