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Wow. I've been lurking for ages, but finally decided to splurge on an account specifically for this thread. There is a lot of really good information in here. Personally, I have never worked on large scale projects with iron and steel, rather smaller fine art/art jewelry pieces with non-ferrous metals. I HAVE gas welded with my oxy-acetylene rig a few times, but mostly with scraps just to work out technique. I am by no means an expert, as a matter of fact I am a student under my school's Metalsmithing and Jewelry program headed by Harlan Butt (if any of you are familiar with his work). This thread seems to be taking on more of an industrial path, but I would be more than happy to throw in my two cents concerning smaller scale work with copper/brass/silver sheet, sinking/raising vessels, marriage of metals/metal inlay, finer soldering techniques including solder inlay, fold forming, enameling techniques, cleaning and sealing finished pieces... the list goes on. That is, if anyone is at all interested. This is the Blacksmithing/Metalwork Megathread, after all. 
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Jul 30, 2008 07:58
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| # ¿ May 4, 2024 11:40 |
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I'm more into the vessels/containers/small scale sculpture, but the same principles apply to most of the jewelry work I've done. RealKyleH: The few rings I have made were cast using investment/the lost wax technique and a centrifugal casting machine. In short, I would carve the initial ring design out of wax, then sprue to a base inside a steel cylinder. A plaster-like substance (investment) is poured into the cylinder, then vaccumed to remove any air bubbles that may have formed. I tend to let this set for at least 48 hours, although waiting that long most likely is not necessary, just long enough for it to dry. You want to place the cylinder in a kiln for burnout (literally burning out the wax or whatever other material or object you have decided to cast) to create the hollow mold roughly 8-12 hours before the time you want to cast, sometimes longer depending on what material you are burning out. The important thing to remember is that the mold must still be hot from burnout at the time you want to pour, as casting into a cold mold will cause cracking and then all hell breaks loose. The centrifugal casting machine itself -- let's see if I can describe this accurately. Think of a spinning see-saw. On one side we have our mold sitting with a small ceramic crucible at the open mouth. On the other side is a weight acting as a counterbalance. As dv6speed mentioned with his dentist friend (who I am assuming uses the same technique) we are working with such a small amount of metal all that is required to melt it is an oxy-acetylene torch. Put your casting grain/scraps in the crucible, melt, flux, skim, remove the heat and close the lid. Our little balanced see-saw then spins on it's axis, slinging the metal into your mold. Let it go for a couple of minutes, and you're done. Stand the cylinder on it's end and let the fresh cast cool so the metal isn't red-hot anymore, then you can quench in a bucket of water and wash away the investment from your object. Cut off the sprues/button of excess metal and get to cleaning! That wasn't short at all now was it... Apologies if my descriptions are lacking/slightly incoherent. Going on very little sleep right now. After the school opens back up for the fall semester I'll take some pictures of our equipment. Unfortunately a writeup on sinking and raising will have to come later this weekend, as it's almost 5 in the morning and I should probably get some sleep tonight. That's too bad, because raising is where my real passions lie. I could stand and hammer for hours. Anyways, while I'm at it I'll throw in some pics of my work. Also: Slung Blade posted:Good lord man, post, post. I want to see pictures of everything. Just thought I would point out that I may well be the only female in this thread.  We need more chicks that know their way around a shop...One last thing, Brekelefuw: if you give us some idea of exactly what you are wanting to add, I'm sure we can throw some ideas on technique your way. As a music nerd myself (alto, tenor and bari sax for 8 years) you have my interests piqued indeed.
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Aug 2, 2008 11:02
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Brekelefuw posted:I also noticed on some very high end trumpets, the maker puts silver highlights on the edges of his brass sheet braces. I have been brainstorming how to do this cheaply and easily without having to buy/make a plating machine and I think doing some very fancy solder tinning where I tin a design on the brass, but I don't know how to control the solder so it doesn't just flow everywhere. Maybe it is too crazy an idea... Oh! I'm sorry I haven't checked in sooner! What you are wanting to do is called solder inlay. Basically, you have to "carve" out a depression of the design you want on the metal you are working with. Etching works really well also, and is easier to get more detail, but most people aren't set up for that. Anyways, it's pretty simple. Just take a dremel or flexshaft and carve out the design you want to be inlaid. 2 or 3 mm shaved off is sufficient. Pool solder in this area then clean it up and you're done. I usually use much more solder than necessary then sand flush until the design shows back up. Here's an example of what you can do with this: (Not my work.) http://cageycrafters.invisionzone.com/uploads/1194455233/gallery_1_1_27911.jpg
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Aug 13, 2008 16:08
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I've got a quick question, fellas. Today I needed something a bit less powerful than my oxy/acetylene torch for small scale work so I went and picked up a Bernzomatic JTH7 hosed torch assembly and, since it was only a dollar more than standard size, a disposable Fat Boy canister of MAPP gas. Upon arriving home and reading the labels/accompanying paperwork ran into this gem on the can: "Use only with torches designed for MAPP gas that does not utilize a hose." WTF? This is thoroughly confusing considering I have seen this product packaged with the new trigger-lit hosed torch assembly they are using to phase out the JTH7. The valve on top of the canister looks standard. I don't know what they would be referencing or why a MAPP torch (hose or not) would not be compatible with a disposable MAPP tank of the same brand. Any ideas? Is it a non-issue or should I just go out and buy a couple of standard sized canisters in the interest of not blowing poo poo up?
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Dec 7, 2008 19:54
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dv6speed posted:I would probably test it outside first tho, just to be on the safe side. Done and done. (I manned up after my initial post and just went out back to test.) All is good.  In a day or two I'll post pics of what I'm working on.
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Dec 7, 2008 22:48
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| # ¿ May 4, 2024 11:40 |
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Slung Blade posted:
Not too well, actually. I was going to try sand casting some brooches (since I can't afford a centrifugal caster for lost-wax) but because the roomie that was supposed to help me and I were fighting and I only have two hands I couldn't keep the metal hot enough to get past the sprues before it cooled. So I started screwing around making freeform ingots by pouring molten bronze into a bucket of water and think I may be able to do something with that. I'll see if I can't whip something up and get some pictures posted this weekend. Jovial Cynic: The alien is adorable! I've got the clockwork brontosaurus you did in August displayed proudly on my dresser. It was a gift from my boyfriend, who commissioned it from you. Dinosaur + welded steel = best birthday present ever.
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Dec 10, 2008 20:43
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hay guys acetylene is the same thing as natural gas rite?