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Hey metal thread what up? I got a sickle that's sorta old bit not really. It's getting to have a weird curve to it that makes it annoying as hell to peen -- basically if I put it on a flat surface the tip will be slightly raised up a fraction of an inch compared to the body of the blade. What's the best way to fix this so the whole length is lined up and horizontally uniform? I'm feeling like if I go ham with the flat side of the hammer against the body of the blade (not the cutting edge portion) it might work but actually could make the problem worse cause I'm stressing it in a way that proceeds down the length and is like a real lovely rolling press kinda deal. If I absolutely have to I guess I can heat it but I have no desire to gently caress up the temper in any way and would be fine cold slamming this thing for a while if that's what it took. I was thinking "poo poo I could put the worst bent portion on my knee and pull the handle and tip" but this seems insanely stupid because even dull the thing can leave nicks that bleed for hours. Also that's an amazing way to introduce a twisting bend that'd surely be even harder to fix. What's ur inputs? maybe I didn't describe things too well? I don't really know terms or whatever
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Aug 25, 2018 00:46
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| # ¿ May 12, 2024 11:51 |
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Exactly. Well sort of. I think you're talking about a rotational curve along the axis of the tool -- that's not happening. It's just that the tip is just pulled upwards when it needs to be in line with the handle. No torsion problems that I noticed do far. Maybe you're correct and the natural curve of the tool [e: on the other axis the regular sickle curve] cancels out the torsion and makes the end raise up. Peening is a really solid process that imo gives a better edge vs regular sharpening with files or grit or whatever, for certain applications. I feel like it extends the life of the tool more than subtractive methods, but is more prone to doing it wrong and dumb. I may be doing it dumb. I'm really not wanting to try to peen the flat side because it's like a hundred times thicker and also I'm no pro master who can pull it off. Trying to straighten it out with the flat edge of the hammer feels like trying to make a leaf spring back into a straight piece of metal, sorta. Obviously the curve is less and the thickness of the metal and tension on this is less, but it is a pretty poo poo situation I got into. Trying to counter curve it by hammering on an angle or against a convex surface feels like a mistake waiting to happen, I for sure do not have the skill to make it even at all. Fucker needs to be ultra sharp to cut effectively, especially if I got like big stalks of random weeds mixed in with the grass. This fucks up the edge nearly instantly, but normally it's easy to pound the cutting edge back out. I usually test it by drawing it lightly against the hair on my arm. It's good when I look like a half shaved weirdo. This curve in the blade is really loving me up tho because it seems like it's right at the most important part of the blade that does the most work. I guess I should mention that part of this curving might have been caused with me throwing the thing in my car and random bullshit rolling across it as I drive. I don't know if this is that big a deal but having random jacks and other tools slamming the fucker probably didn't help. Also I should mention that years before I would sharpen it with fine files, but it wasn't long before I realized this was bad and rapidly eroding the tool. Tomorrow I can probably post some pics but we're taking like a thirty second of an inch across half a foot, that's a poo poo load of deflection imo. I'm worried that I'm peening it wrong and making the problem worse. SniperWoreConverse fucked around with this message at 02:01 on Aug 25, 2018 |
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Aug 25, 2018 01:59
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Yooper posted:We do a dispersion test on our steel shot blaster (think baby ball bearing peening) that uses a flat sheet, ~12" by 24". Just peening one side of it will cause the plate to curl up towards the direction the shot travels from. If you flip the sheet over you can get it to flex and straighten back out. With the cutting edge facing you and the handle on the right, the bottom one. So the peening hits would fall downwards from the top of the image. The thing is I probably have completely misunderstood how to work with thing, because you can't flip it over and peen the cutting edge from the other side. I mean, not without ultra master skills or some kinda real weird setup. The normal curve of the blade would make it drat near impossible and the edge would be really fucky, it would be ruined if you didn't hit it perfectly. If I chopped it in half starting at the blade side and going to the spine side, and then looked at the fresh cut directly it would be a rectangle with a right triangle attached. Or if I held it with the edge facing up and the handle away from me, the edge is not like an axe edge ^, it's like /|. I could hammer the non-edge part either way no problem, so maybe I'm supposed to flip it over and hit it with the flat part of the hammer?
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Aug 26, 2018 03:13
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So maybe this is my problem, check these guys with a scythe: https://scythesupply.com/peeningworkshop.html I'm using a ball peen instead of cross peen because the curvature of a sickle is pretty intense compared to a scythe, but the cutting edge seems the same. Also I hit it lightly and can in fact see the deformations after each hit just like they say. But at the same time I'm not using a convex anvil like they are, is this the problem? They never mention flipping it over, & I'm having difficulty understanding how that could even work at all.
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Aug 26, 2018 03:28
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right, that makes sense. I'll report back later.
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Aug 26, 2018 04:28
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Dumb googling "kerosene 1 gallon btu" leads to this page that says it's slightly weaker than "heating oil" and diesel but I think it may be close enough that the cheaper choice may be better Line up ur ad blockers https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/energy-content-d_868.html I dunno the accuracy of the page but regardless this is maybe not the stuff to use imperial. I love my °f for house thermostats but no btu is probably an idiot measurement & I don't know the metric for such a thing
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Aug 26, 2018 09:37
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Sagebrush posted:Jfyi if you use super glue (cyanoacrylate) as a temporary fixture, you need to be sure to remove all of it before you weld. I tried to use super glue once to jig up some oddly-shaped pieces, and it turns out that the welding heat vaporizes it into a horribly caustic gas that will have you coughing for hours. I count myself lucky that it didn't do a brake cleaner/phosgene thing. Yeah that produces hydrogen cyanide
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Sep 6, 2018 18:08
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Yooper posted:I'd try hammering the non-edge part and see how it behaves. Not sure on using the flat part of the hammer, I'd start with light hits with the peening side. I'd strike it on the under side and try to lengthen the bottom arc with some taps. Don't think of it as hitting the arch to bend it down, but hit it under the arch to expand the metal and draw it down. wanted to say this worked perfectly and it only took a few taps to set it straight
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Sep 27, 2018 20:27
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hey I figure I could throw this out here even though it's not really metalwork. I someone here would know or at least be able to point me in the right direction. I got various old time files and tools but none of them have handles. I got some hunks of wood I shaped the way I want and now it's time to figure out the ferrules and how to drill a hole for the tang. I know the tang size but I also have only hand tools (although I could borrow a drill). What's the best way to make the correct pilot holes and also how should I do my ferrules? I was planning on just using some copper pipe I have. Basically drill some kinda hole slightly smaller than the tang and then line up both the ferrule and file and bonk them down in by popping the bottom of the handle against a table. The files have what basically look like normal tangs for that type of file and just a straight hole seems kinda incorrect? Wouldn't that leave a shitload of empty space inside and make it get loose over time? Plus the tang cross section is rectangular not circular.
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Dec 18, 2018 08:33
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A hole the diameter of the tip of the tang or what? Cause the wider part of the tang is basically huge compared to the tip
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Dec 18, 2018 21:25
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Applesnots posted:How do you attach it to the door? obviously the answer is to forge it to the door you also forged
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Mar 9, 2019 08:09
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Acid Reflux posted:The weather here still isn't great, but it's improving, and I've finally had the chance to fire up my little metal furnace a few times! Aluminum is a no-brainer. I can fill a #3 crucible with molten metal within 10 minutes of lighting it off. The furnace is pretty small and the burner is quite powerful, and it heats up super fast. I've only melted a couple of pounds of copper so far, but it's also a pretty quick operation. Maybe 15 minutes until it gets up to temperature. really wanna see what happens with that bronze. I got a bunch of scrap I've been meaning to melt down and I might be able to get a little bit of basically the same stuff. I've heard you can do different kinds of quenches on aluminum bronze specifically that wouldn't work on regular olden style bronze or brass, but it seems real goddamn complex and above my brain. For greensand what I did was buy idk like 50lbs of play sand for a few bucks. It came wet and you can't screen it like that so I took a piece of poo poo pan and filled it with sand over a burner. It'll steam and you just gotta mix it around some until it's dry, then it screens super super easy. I found a super cheap v fine mesh strainer and used that. You get really nice results it's basically like flour. It can also produce dust so watch out. I had bought the cheapest bag of clay cat litter I could find and I pounded some into dust, then mixed it with the fine sand according to some ratio I didn't write down and can't remember. Then I sprayed water on it from just a regular spray bottle and mixed it up some and it came out basically perfect, or at least it seemed to easily keep its shape and if I squeezed it in my hand it picked up the wrinkes and life lines or w/e. If I were to do this again I would probably try to make a clay slurry and then add sand in otherwise you get a shitload of extremely annoying dust. then I took the course grits of sand and mixed it with sodium silicate that I also made, and I ended up with a bunch of ok-seeming diy refractory bricks and tiles. anyway I got burgled before I could finish making enough bricks for a little furnace so whelp no burners or anything and I stalled out. But i'm thinking of trying to restart this I have a ton of trash metal i'd like to gently caress around with. Ideally I would go some super cheap route and maybe try to fuel it off of charcoal and a blower or some idiot concept like that instead of the kind of stuff that'd be liable to get robbed again. I've been thinking of making something and using lost wax to cast it because I have a big slab of wax sitting around. also like a year or two ago I brought up peening my sickle and yesterday I used the advice you guys gave me and it still works great. I stepped on some grass that I cut and the grass itself was so sharp it stabbed thru my shoe
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May 17, 2019 22:00
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wesleywillis posted:If you're looking for some even finer than cat litter clay, you could buy a few bags of Bentonite grout from a local drilling company. It can be as fine as beach sand, or even as fine as flour. someone actually gave me a bigass bag of the poo poo so I was like gently caress it. I don't have a cat and haven't had one for years. I can't imagine using insanely huge amounts of the stuff anyway, but I didn't actually get a chance to cast anything so maybe I was way low on amounts
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May 18, 2019 08:59
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armorer posted:I finished up a jewelry project over the weekend. 22k gold and (partially blackened) fine silver. Made from 22 gauge wire. this is with bent rings, right? man I did tried Viking weave with brass and it looked like fuckin poo poo I didn't have a draw block so I used a random assortment of junk drawer washers and I would not advice doing that, make sure you have an even set that has enough graduations.
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Jun 7, 2019 17:08
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honda whisperer posted:What if you made a long version and then cut it into wafers. Could make a more difficult technique worth while if you got multiple pieces. I figure drill length would be the limiting factor. And also how the transparent material felt about bandsaws or parting tools. isn't this how they hand make complex glass beads? fuse a bunch of rods into a mega log or something like that?
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Jun 15, 2019 18:25
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Leperflesh posted:Oh poo poo Any time goons update certain threads with youtubes I will get the reccomendations before I see the thread. Fuckin wild
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Jun 15, 2019 18:27
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peepsalot posted:I'm hoping this is a good place to ask general metallurgy sort of questions. the dude said that defective pipes cannot be recycled... is this loving true? Can you really do something to copper tubes that means you can't just resmelt them? Or is it just not worth the effort for the manufacturer so they chuck em?
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Jul 27, 2019 12:25
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Super Waffle posted:Is it possible to run a forge off a residential gas line? I know propane burns hotter than NG but I'm wondering if anyone has tried this or seen any setups like this. 8:53 bud,  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3FN9J4zgsgk&t=533s
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Aug 11, 2019 20:44
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Excellent now post the oxygen purifiers to really get this poo poo rip roarin
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Aug 11, 2019 23:22
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| # ¿ May 12, 2024 11:51 |
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=snz7JJlSZvw Feel like I posted this before What you should REALLY do is get a big circular tray or dish, fill it with mercury, and rotate it
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Dec 3, 2019 08:32
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