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ante
Apr 9, 2005

SUNSHINE AND RAINBOWS

SkunkDuster posted:

I was running my 7x14 Chinese mini lathe with my head up my rear end and had a crash which took a tooth away from one of the M1 Z80 gears that control the feed when the half nuts are engaged. I've checked McMaster, Little Machine Shop, and Grizzly and can't find a replacement. The closest thing I've found is this pair of 90(20)/80 gears that replace the existing 80(20)/80 gears. This will slow down the feed rate a bit, and I'm perfectly fine with that, but they cost $40. If I can find a direct replacement for $5 or so, I'd rather go that route.

https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1137&category=1

If I had a dividing head and a piece of round stock large enough, I might take a stab at making my own replacement gear, but I don't have those things. Another option I've considered that I do have the supplies for is using the non-broken gear to make a silicon mold and resin casting a replacement gear. I have some resin that is very imapact resistant, but I don't know how wear resistant it is.

All that aside, anybody know where I can get an M1 Z80, 7mm thick with a 12mm bore 3mm keyed shaft gear for cheap?

edit: I went ahead and ordered the gears from LMS. I'd still be interested in finding a source for cheap gears in case I break another one in the future.

Yo, I run all 3D printed change gears in my 7x14 Chinese mini lathe. They're totally fine for all my aluminum threading. I've crashed it, and the keyways strip out really nicely, saving the rest of the machine. It's a feature.
Also, I can print literally any tooth count, I have unlocked arbitrary thread pitches.

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ante
Apr 9, 2005

SUNSHINE AND RAINBOWS
I use PETG for everything. I'm sure other materials would work fine, too.

ante
Apr 9, 2005

SUNSHINE AND RAINBOWS

SkunkDuster posted:

What are you using for your 3D printer and design software?

I have an original Elegoo Mars and am familiar enough with Blender that I could probably design and print gears, but I've found that the Mars is not dimensionally accurate on larger pieces. I'm guessing that is due to pulling forces stretching the print.

OnShape and a Prusa i3. Any CAD software is fine, or if you like, I could just send you a set of STLs or my parametric gear generator file in OnShape.

ante
Apr 9, 2005

SUNSHINE AND RAINBOWS
I was actually going to throw them up on Thingiverse, but of course someone else has already done a great job:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:180038

ante
Apr 9, 2005

SUNSHINE AND RAINBOWS
Do you have any specific suggestions for casting materials?

The whole point of the 3D printed change gears is that they're quick and dirty and Good Enough so I'm not that interested in casting for that application. But for other stuff, I'm very intrigued

ante
Apr 9, 2005

SUNSHINE AND RAINBOWS
My understanding is that the starting surface will remain essentially unchanged during anodization. So, get it looking exactly how you want beforehand, and then you should be good.

Polishing afterwords will gently caress up the finish.


Someone correct me if wrong, I am a few months away from trying this for the first time

ante
Apr 9, 2005

SUNSHINE AND RAINBOWS
I have one in my living room right now, that I've been trying to get going. Long story.


Gonna get it to play the knife game

ante
Apr 9, 2005

SUNSHINE AND RAINBOWS
That's a hell of a long skinny boring bar. You don't happen to have an EDM machine kicking around?

ante
Apr 9, 2005

SUNSHINE AND RAINBOWS
Get tube slit a long triangle down the side, hammer into cone

ante
Apr 9, 2005

SUNSHINE AND RAINBOWS
drat that's a really overbuilt 3D printer filament reel holder

ante
Apr 9, 2005

SUNSHINE AND RAINBOWS
Dude, thread pitch standardization didn't even exist until the 1940s

ante
Apr 9, 2005

SUNSHINE AND RAINBOWS
There's only a tiny chance that they're non standard gears. If you google how to reverse engineer nylon printer gears, I bet you'll be able to find some guide on getting the critical measurements to spec new ones.

ante
Apr 9, 2005

SUNSHINE AND RAINBOWS
Oh hello, may as well jump on the alloy and tempering chat.

I've been tirekicking a project that needs a flexspline for a few years.

My best understanding is that SS 304 is the material to use.

Additionally, my understanding is that it will be nonmagnetic, and then when I machine it, it will probably work harden, and then become magnetic. And then I need it slightly springy still, so I will need to temper it, in which case it will be nonmagnetic again.


Metal Supermarkets lists SS304, and then when I requested it, this is what's listed on the invoice:



It's a huge pain to lathe. And it's magnetic afterwards.



For tempering, my understanding is that I need to get it to 1850-2050F in a hydrogen oven. And then air cooling slowly.

Which, lol, I don't have, I'm not doing that. I do have a regular heat treating oven, though. So what's the worst that can happen.



It's this:


I've never seen stainless steel oxidize before.


So anyway, I tried it again, this time with wrapping the pieces up in steel foil, with a little bit of wood to try and pull all the oxygen out. This was a bit of a hail mary, and it didn't work. It's possible it could have maybe worked, but I hosed it up? Idk the foil was sharp as hell and I bled all over it too




This is a pretty meandering journey over about two years and it's pretty clear I have no idea what I'm doing. If there are any suggestions, I'm open to it.

ante
Apr 9, 2005

SUNSHINE AND RAINBOWS

meowmeowmeowmeow posted:

A513 is a normal rear end carbon steel usually used for low-load tube structures, and is not 304 stainless.

They shipped or you ordered the wrong thing, sorry.

That was one of the many thoughts I had.

I certainly know what I told them, but they also are extremely casual about the poo poo they actually write down, I've noticed.

ante
Apr 9, 2005

SUNSHINE AND RAINBOWS
How many holes?


Just file it

ante
Apr 9, 2005

SUNSHINE AND RAINBOWS
I use superlube, because it doesn't smell like anything. And even WD40 is too strong smelling for my living room.


It's weird how context changes things like that. WD40 smells great in the machine shop. Bad in the home.

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ante
Apr 9, 2005

SUNSHINE AND RAINBOWS
Have you tried liquid nitrogen?

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