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shame on an IGA posted:One more time for the new page
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Dec 14, 2019 01:10
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| # ¿ May 10, 2024 18:23 |
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I'm trying to buy some M2 HSS rectangular bar stock to grind some of my own wood lathe tools (scrapers) but can't seem to find raw stock anywhere for a reasonable price unless I buy entire 6' bars or something. I could buy a new name brand tool and wind up with more steel than buying raw stock, so maybe I'm just crazy for thinking I could do this more cheaply myself. I'd like stuff 1/4"-3/8" thick ranging from 1/4" to over an inch wide, by a foot long or so. Mcmaster has it but for $$$$ all MSC has is round drill rod-is this just not a common item or am I looking in the wrong places?
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Jan 10, 2020 01:26
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shame on an IGA posted:If you're patient you just need a hacksaw, drill press, and wide array of files.
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Jan 26, 2020 03:56
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Is there a name for the fitting that would go on the end of an acme screw to hold it in place but let it spin freely? Right now I’m using a bronze bearing and the end of the thread just rubs against the wood, and you can feel a lump where the thread starts when rotating it. I’m thinking something like the pad on a C clamp? Or should I just grind the end of the thread to be more rounded? Pics if they help:  
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May 15, 2020 21:20
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I actually made a simple jig and ground the tip into a slight cone so it wasn't lopsided anymore. That didn't fix the problem-I think either the screw shaft is slightly bent or the nut is installed a little wonky (by far the most likely option). The screw is basically a jack to raise/lower something, and the wobble was a little annoying but doesn't seem to be majorly impacting the way anything works. Stiffening up the rest of the framework seems to have helped as well. This whole project has been 'mock it up and make sure it works, and then I'll build a real one later' and, uh, the mockup works and now I guess it's the tempermanent, cobbled together, real one. Thanks for the advice anyway! I've got plans to build a vise of some sort soon, and I'm sure I'll need something similar then.
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May 15, 2020 23:28
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Except for carving/whittling knives, most woodworking gouges/carving tools/chisels have a flat, straight bevel instead of a rounded bevel like on knife. The bevel is like two straight lines meeting at an angle, not two curved lines intersecting. This makes them easier to sharpen and helps them cut wood grain more consistently without tearout.
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Jun 11, 2020 20:03
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Back when I did a little blacksmithing I built a super simple and cheap washtub forge powered by a hairdryer with a rheostat. It worked great and got plenty hot with hardwood/lump charcoal. I think I remember something about briquets not getting as hot as lump charcoal? https://allensonarmory.blogspot.com/2014/04/charcoal-washtub-forge.html Railroad iron doesn't make a great anvil, but it does make an anvil. It's  but if there are RR tracks out in the woods near you, there is always hit laying around-scraps of track or the plates that go on the ties etc.
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Jun 24, 2020 02:14
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Rapulum_Dei posted:Finally got round to casting a couple of angle clamps from a 3d printed master. Not great but not terrible enough to remelt. These are very neat! Has 3d printing completely killed off the old patternmaking trade where patterns were made of wood?
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Jul 21, 2020 13:17
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What's my best bet for drilling a 2" hole through ~3/4" thick cast iron/steel? I have a bunch of weight plates with a 1" hole in them and I'd like to convert some to fit an olympic barbell with a 2" shaft. I have a good drill press. Would a hole saw work? I already have this set: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-Hole-Dozer-General-Purpose-Bi-Metal-Hole-Saw-Set-13-Piece-49-22-4025/202327772 A 2" twist bit is expensive af and my drill press only takes 1/2" shanks I think. I guess there is no metal-cutting equivalent to a forstner bit? I have a cutting torch but I'd rather not burn all the paint off and I'm not sure it would work if these are cast iron anyway?
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Jul 28, 2020 13:34
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Yooper posted:Hole saw would work. Just go slow, clear the chips, and keep it well oiled. For RPM I'd aim for like 100-150 RPM. Go way slower than you think you would. I'd rig up a jig on your drill press table to really lock everything in place too, nothing worse than having poo poo wander and break your tools. Thanks. The slowest my drill press (powermatic 1150A) goes is 450 RPM, do you think that is slow enough? What should I use for oil/lubricant?
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Jul 28, 2020 13:49
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Thanks for all the hole sawing advice a few days ago. I've come up with a plan and wanted to run it by you all. Make jig to hold weight to be drilled Use hole saw to mark where it is going to cut Drill series of small (1/8"? 3/16?) holes in the hole saw's kerf (how many? 4?) to help clear chips Cut at slowest speed with alot of lube (WD-40?) Hypnolobster posted:
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Aug 1, 2020 13:13
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Jaded Burnout posted:6mm is also obviously the most expensive, so if that's way overkill it'd be good to know too. I use 1/4 plywood and haven't had problems. It gets screwed down tight to the router base which is the part really doing the work of keeping things flat. When I have bought aluminum plate I've been surprised at how not flat it was, but maybe I've just had bad luck. Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Thanks for all the hole sawing advice a few days ago. I've come up with a plan and wanted to run it by you all. I finally had a chance to try this and got....nowhere. I started with 4 3/16" holes around the perimeter and got nowhere, then I drilled about a dozen, and still get nowhere. Should I just drill a million more holes and hope for the best? The hole saws I'm using are general purpose Milkwauke HOLE-DOZER hole saws and seem to have fairly coarse teeth cutting a pretty wide kerf-might this be the problem? Are there specific metal cutting hole saws? My drill press only goes down to like 450 RPM, and I'm using lots of WD-40. I've tried very light pressure/low feed rate as well as pushing as hard as I can and get nowhere either way. It just doesn't seem to be cutting.
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Aug 28, 2020 02:52
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honda whisperer posted:What you probably need is a bimetal hole saw. It will have high speed steel teeth. They're much harder and last longer vs steel. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-2-1-8-in-Hole-Dozer-Bi-Metal-Hole-Saw-49-56-9626/202327751 It cut maybe 1/16"? deep if that and now I'm getting nowhere. The weight is cast iron-if I drilled enough holes would a good whack with a hammer crack it between the holes? Or any other way to break it in a controlled way? It's like an inch thick at least.
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Aug 28, 2020 14:25
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honda whisperer posted:Hunh that should work.  teeth As far as I’ve gotten. Most all the chips are from the 3/16” holes I drilled around the circle.
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Aug 28, 2020 16:32
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Victory: I wound up basically drill out 1/4" holes around the perimeter (because I broke my 3/16" and 7/32" bits drilling holes) on the second one so the hole saw was doing very very little work-then it cut like a dream! Thanks for all y'all's advice about this dumb task.
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Sep 2, 2020 01:17
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BLARGHLE posted:I have to wonder why you're doing this at all? Why not just sell the weights with smaller holes and buy some with larger holes; rather than ruining a bunch of drill bits, hole saws, and also a set of perfectly good weights? And why did no one bring this up at any point? Except 3 days after I did this Academy got what I needed back in stock, lol.
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Sep 5, 2020 13:23
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I'm looking at making my own round skew chisel for use on a wood lathe: Is this basically what I need? https://www.mcmaster.com/high-speed-steel/hardened-oversized-high-speed-m2-tool-steel-rods/ Just grind the bevel to shape-no heat treating required? Where else might I look if I wanted a blank longer than 6"? They have M42 as well which I know some woodturning tool manufacturers use-what's the difference? I generally prefer easier to sharpen and gets sharper than hard to sharpen but stays sharp longer.
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Sep 11, 2020 13:23
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Yooper posted:Yes, if you can grind it to shape without overheating it and removing the hardness. Free cutting wheel, constant cooling, etc. If you have access I'd use a very aggressive belt for roughing and finish with a grinding wheel. We use a 36 grit belt grinder for parts around 60 Rc and can remove a large quantity of material with no reduction in hardness. I have some good blue Norton cool cutting wheels. I could stick a 40 grit Al oxide belt on my belt sander too. At what point does HSS lose hardness? My impression was that it stayed hard until it was basically dull red? Is that not correct? I've also read not to quench HSS in water because it can make little microfractures, but maybe that only applies to really fancy powdered metal stuff?
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Sep 11, 2020 14:42
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Jaded Burnout posted:This may be the wrong place to ask this, but I think you're the folks most familiar with machine screws and threads.
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Sep 29, 2020 14:02
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Sagebrush posted:I also am astonished that people are still using anything other than metric or US customary in new designs anywhere in the world.
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Sep 30, 2020 04:52
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Hello DIYers! We have a new forum/mod feedback thread and would love to hear your thoughts! https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3944213 Get ready to read this message 15 more times in every thread you read! Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 14:11 on Oct 16, 2020 |
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Oct 16, 2020 01:35
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Rapulum_Dei posted:
Be the change you want to see in the world.
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Oct 20, 2020 21:11
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Sockser posted:Alright so like, I’m mostly getting the hang of this That being said, welding skills and fabrication skills aren’t the same. Getting good at welding doesn’t mean being good at fabrication-I’ve know very good welders who can barely read a tape measure. A cutting table or welding bench is a good place to start. Building a simple jig to keep parts square as you weld them is good practice. Weld opposite corners of a rectangle to minimize warping etc. Keeping things square and in place as you weld them is the hard part.
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Nov 2, 2020 04:37
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Pagan posted:I agree with everything here, but I would like to add that holding things in place IS what welding is about, at least in my limited experience.
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Nov 5, 2020 15:13
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The fab table is the same way, and having used a Build-Pro table, it's worth the investment if you're doing this for a living. We had projects that required subassemblies small enough to fit through a door, but then needed to be welded onsite. Hope everything was done right, because a 1" mistake on a 15' long truss is a big deal!
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This might do better in AI or maybe the tools thread, but y'all are the machine geniuses. I need to replace some bearings on a machine, and want to double check that I know what I more or less know what I'm doing. I'm not exactly a gearhead, but trying to learn. I got the new bearings (40mm ID, 80mm OD, they are Timken which is I think a good brand?) already, and want to dig into this tomorrow. This is the thing -it's the 2 bearings (#3 on the dwg)on the cutterhead of a big woodworking planer:  That would probably be simple enough but there's also like 7 other shafts going into the same blocks:  Anyway, from talking to the tech support people, it seems like I strip all the stuff off all those shafts on the pulley/right side, dismount the block on the right from the machine, and then should be able to get the cutterhead assembly out to work on it. I have pulled pulleys before with a normal puller like this:https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-4-Ton-2-Jaw-Puller-HGP424/205738372. Will that work on a ball bearing too or is it going to pull the bearing apart? I also need some retaining ring pliers: is something like this okay for very occasional use? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Channellock-8-in-Retaining-Ring-Pliers-927/100348008 I asked the tech guy if I would need a press to get the new bearings on and he said no, and thought I could heat them up a little. Does that mean with a torch? Aren't they packed with grease and sealed with plastic? That seems like...not a great idea. This video had a cool setup that seemed a little safer: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wXZ-agyDsXY Is that the better way? Is there a harbor freight version of that for the every 3 years I need to replace a bearing? Once I get the bearings on, do everything in reverse, including effortlessly fitting all 6 shafts into the block simultaneously. Piece of cake, right? I'm planning on putting shims/supports under all the shafts I'm not removing to try and make putting it back together easer. I am watching a million youtubes rn, but any advice would be appreciated.
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Dec 3, 2020 01:25
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Yooper posted:I prefer the three jaw, but that should work. If it pulls the bearing apart, oh well, it's junk anyway right? The issue I find is if it's locked onto the shaft you need to get something behind it to wedge it out a bit. Otherwise the "teeth" on the puller may not be able to grip behind the bearing depending on the diameter of the shoulder. I've ground the jaws to fit into tight spots before but it's always lovely. That ring plier should work, the tips are what you need and they all kind of suck. Thanks this went fairly smoothly (well, lots of of beating on the shaft on side to drive the bearing out of the casting) but once I got everything cleaned up the new bearings went on easy and slid into the casting fine. For future reference, is there anything to look for in a visual inspection as far as 'this bearing is nearing the end of its life.' However, in pulling the old bearings, the bearing puller damaged an internal thread on the end of the shaft. What's the best way to repair this? Google says get a tap and carefully retap the hole? It's metric-10mm I think (17mm wrench?)? It might be time to get a tap and die set anyway as I can see many uses-mostly in aluminum for jigs etc. Is there a recommended basic set for very occasional use? is whatever the HF special is good enough or not at all? If I can get this all put back on the machine and all the belts and sprockets and stuff hooked back up and adjusted correctly I'll be amazed, but it's been neat exploring some machinery guts. I couldn't find anyone locally that works on this kind of stuff-as my old boss rightly said, 'woodworkers can't afford real machinists' and instead learn to DIY it so I guess that's why they don't exist! Machinery guts pics:  (is there a name for those pneumatic things and the tubes/connectors?)  Learned that this things has 3 separate motors in it-one for cutterhead, one for the feed rollers, and one to move the table.   Some temporary plywood bearings to keep things approximately aligned-worked well.
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Dec 9, 2020 02:24
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Yooper posted:
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Dec 9, 2020 03:30
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Hello Hobbyists and Crafters of all sorts! Our friends from Creative Convention are visiting with their Travelling Showcase of Wonders and they want to see all the cool and fantastic things you've been working on! Go show them off and admire the handiwork of other talented goons! https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3946255
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Dec 14, 2020 02:53
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That's very cool and came out great. In my tiny experience with turning brass with woodworking tools, scrapers are the least bad option, but a file seems to be the best. Parting tool actually worked well too.
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Dec 26, 2020 00:27
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Trabant posted:Has anyone tried weathering/ageing metal? Specifically, I'm looking to make this pencil box:
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Feb 11, 2021 00:54
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If you call the Jax people they are very knowledgeable and helpful about what stuff will and won’t work on.
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Feb 11, 2021 04:18
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Motronic posted:This probably isn't the right thread, but I'm gonna give it a try anyway. I've got a copper topped bar that has been coated with something clear. I assume polyurethane. It gets "sticky" if things are left on it. I'm going to assume someone put a single stage poly on there when they should have used something 2-part catalyzed. You could also leave it unfinished and let it patina a bit?
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Mar 23, 2021 01:40
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down1nit posted:http://imgur.com/gallery/Kn3WnWc In future you can set the upload to be private on imgur and you can still link to it but it doesn't show up in the imgur feed or w/e.
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Mar 29, 2021 18:47
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cakesmith handyman posted:Okay I'm up for that, looks like ash is traditional for a short handle in the UK and I can recognise that easily enough. Silly Europeans put the mountains on their continent sideways and lost all their hickories in the ice age and have to make do with ash for axe handles  
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May 15, 2021 17:01
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I should be able to cut hardened M2 drill rod on my normal abrasive cutoff saw or with a cutoff wheel in the grinder, right? It’s only 1/4” and 3/8”.
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May 24, 2021 16:13
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cakesmith handyman posted:Someone with little or no online presence who answers an old fashioned phone is your best bet.
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May 28, 2021 20:35
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That looks awesome. What’s the reason for the taper? Seems like more work for less strength but I’m a woodworker and definitely not an engineer. Does precision grout have a minimum thickness and do you use a bonding agent or anything? The floors in my ship are very far from flat and I have a machine or two that could really use a very flat surface to sit on.
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Jun 10, 2021 04:13
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Depending on how old it is, there’s a chance the body/eye of the axe is wrought iron and not steel, which may complicate things a little bit. I know wrought iron can be welded it just probably needs some specific setup/filler/etc. I don’t know the details of. If you have a grinder a spark test may help rule out wrought iron.
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Jun 23, 2021 18:36
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Samuel L. Hacksaw posted:Nice sex chair. Incorporate cuffs and start selling copies for 2k a piece.
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Jul 22, 2021 17:58
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| # ¿ May 10, 2024 18:23 |
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AmbassadorofSodomy posted:So when you reposition yourself, you start at the end of the previous bead, go backwards to cover it (the crater) up, then "forwards" to continue the bead down the line? I remember in the shipyard we were supposed to grind out the crater before starting the next pass, but that was aluminum and it cracks like crazy, especially from the little divot in the center of the crater.
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Jul 25, 2021 18:20
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