|
Majere posted:If its anything like the legacy, the wires in the hinge are frayed/broken Hmm. I did have an 05 Outback where those wires had frayed, leading to some weird gremlins. This car only has 75k km on it, though...I guess I'll check them when the weather gets a little nicer.
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2024 22:39
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 27, 2024 20:04 |
|
|
Does Subaru not use a washer on the oil pan bolt? just changed the oil on the forester and didn't see one on it.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2024 02:34
|
|
|
Both the EJ in my Legacy and the FB in my wife's Crosstrek have a crush washer on the drain plug. What year Forester? Check Rockauto, they'll sell them individually and by the box from Dorman, I usually order a box for each whenever I run low. Plus I order filters 3-4 at a time, just to make the shipping worth it.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2024 05:20
|
|
|
i think a lot of em end up not having em because they're often a pain in the rear end to find and running without one beats not changing the oil also cheap oil change places who dont pay their techs enough for em to give a poo poo
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2024 05:47
|
|
|
2023 and its its first change so i guess not. mf was on there wicked tight though
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2024 06:16
|
|
|
lol the factory itself was like "gently caress it nobody uses these anyway. +1¥ to the margin"
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2024 07:39
|
|
|
I thought the washers on oil pan drain bolts were crush washers and supposed to be replaced with each oil change to maintain the seal? Not that I always remember 100% of the time persay, but I do try to pop a new one on with each change
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2024 19:09
|
|
|
Catatron Prime posted:I thought the washers on oil pan drain bolts were crush washers and supposed to be replaced with each oil change to maintain the seal? They are, same as VW/Audi/Porsche. But you can absolutely get away with multiple uses if you are torqueing the pan bolt correctly as opposed to hulking it on.
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2024 19:12
|
|
|
On most of my cars, I replace the drain plug with a Fumoto valve and it's never been an issue. I usually get most of the oil out with a Mityvac first though, so when I crack open the Fumoto there's barely anything that comes out (and was the case prior to installing the valve).
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2024 19:34
|
|
|
You can grab a dozen crush washers on Amazon for a couple bucks, lots of places that sell you the filter offer to throw in a crush washer as well, and on a few shitboxes I’ve had I reused it over and over lol
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2024 19:53
|
|
|
Yeah, they can be reused if you're actually correctly torquing the drain bolt. But they're like 80 cents in a box of 10, so I always replace it. I've got 3 little boxes on the shelf in the garage, right next to the 3 different oil filters for everything.
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2024 02:02
|
|
|
PitViper posted:Yeah, they can be reused if you're actually correctly torquing the drain bolt. But they're like 80 cents in a box of 10, so I always replace it. I've got 3 little boxes on the shelf in the garage, right next to the 3 different oil filters for everything. Yeah.....I didn't mean "just keep using the same one". If you have a car that takes one of these just stock them, they're cheap. But also don't freak out if you don't have one right now providing the old one isn't totally deformed.
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2024 02:19
|
|
|
If the crush washer appears to be missing, look at the sump hole more closely - the washer may be stuck to the pan and may not be obvious at first glance.
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2024 02:34
|
|
|
CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:If the crush washer appears to be missing, look at the sump hole more closely - the washer may be stuck to the pan and may not be obvious at first glance. This, especially it's the first change from the factory. I almost missed the one on my BRZ when I did the first change.
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2024 02:46
|
|
|
CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:If the crush washer appears to be missing, look at the sump hole more closely - the washer may be stuck to the pan and may not be obvious at first glance. and for that matter, the bolt. i found out about subaru crush washers when the "flange" of my drain plug bolt came off
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2024 10:30
|
|
|
Cactus Ghost posted:and for that matter, the bolt. i found out about subaru crush washers when the "flange" of my drain plug bolt came off LOL. Been there. I've also resorted to re-annealing a pair of crush washers for a banjo bolt fitting when I couldn't be arsed to source a new pair. Worked fine (they weren't mangled, just used.)
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2024 17:17
|
|
|
The crush washer was stuck hard to my drain bolt first oil change. Had to pry it off.
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2024 19:53
|
|
|
The donor engine for my build has a drain plug that is 100% seized into the pan. I'm going to have to drill it out, but need to try to get oil out first (or tip the engine so that it isn't sitting on the plug while I drill.
|
|
#
?
Jan 26, 2024 15:30
|
|
|
Shilling fumoto valves because they combined with the inverted oil filter on my Impreza have made my oil changes trivial and quick
|
|
#
?
Jan 26, 2024 16:29
|
|
|
carticket posted:The donor engine for my build has a drain plug that is 100% seized into the pan. I'm going to have to drill it out, but need to try to get oil out first (or tip the engine so that it isn't sitting on the plug while I drill. Just yank and replace the pan instead?
|
|
#
?
Jan 26, 2024 16:34
|
|
|
carticket posted:The donor engine for my build has a drain plug that is 100% seized into the pan. I'm going to have to drill it out, but need to try to get oil out first (or tip the engine so that it isn't sitting on the plug while I drill. hell, free cutting fluid
|
|
#
?
Jan 26, 2024 17:00
|
|
|
stevobob posted:Shilling fumoto valves because they combined with the inverted oil filter on my Impreza have made my oil changes trivial and quick
|
|
#
?
Jan 26, 2024 17:14
|
|
|
They don't work well with skid plates. Ask me how I know!
|
|
#
?
Jan 26, 2024 18:26
|
|
|
daslog posted:They don't work well with skid plates. Ask me how I know! My Primitive skid plates came with a Fumoto valve.
|
|
#
?
Jan 26, 2024 22:31
|
|
|
daslog posted:They don't work well with skid plates. Ask me how I know! What car/skidplate? The Primitive skid plates I've run on my WRXs and swapped Forester worked fine with the Fumoto valves, I just used one of the Fumoto valves without a nipple for additional clearance (probably could have gotten away with the regular Fumoto; the extended one definitely would have hit though).
|
|
#
?
Jan 26, 2024 22:48
|
|
|
Darchangel posted:Just yank and replace the pan instead? Not sure how to do that without making a huge mess without draining it first. I was going to replace the pan because it has some rust on it. I have a little hand transfer pump. I could probably get most of the oil out the top using that?
|
|
#
?
Jan 27, 2024 09:49
|
|
|
HamburgerTownUSA posted:What car/skidplate? Primitive on a 2000 Impreza RS. I hit a rock on course in just the perfect spot and it caused a leak.
|
|
#
?
Jan 27, 2024 12:56
|
|
|
After having it sit since the end of June, I finally got the nerve to start up the Forester XT and try to follow up and diagnose the running lean code that scared me off in the first place. It does help that the car's inspection is due at the end of February giving me motivation. Also helps that the weather is...adequate for wrenching in a parking lot. Actually, if you have to wrench outdoors, mid-40s and overcast is probably as good as you're going to get in this season. Also a lot of rain tomorrow and I really should have got this done sooner rather than later. Getting past all that rambling, I had to use the jump pack and actually remember how to use it to switch it to jump mode. Did my due diligence as far as I could by checking the oil levels (still good but black as hell and I had only changed it in April) before cranking it. Took a few seconds of cranking (felt like forever and I neglected to check what the limit on the jump pack is) but the engine roared to life. Idled fine and no unusual noises as far as I could tell. Got concerned and confused seeing something wafting off around the engine but then realized it was just the moisture and puddles that had accumulated on the engine evaporating off. Had it idling for 30-45 minutes to get the engine up to temperature and charge up the battery while I went around making sure everything looked good. After all that idling, I was able to crank and start right away without the pack so I haven't killed the battery yet. Probably should monitor it and take care of it better so I don't gently caress it up further. Going back to the potential running lean problem, I looked at the intake and all the hoses running off of it but didn't see any obvious cracking. I don't know if it would throw codes while idling but nothing popped up. I did give it a few revs and held revs (about 3k? I was mainly playing by ear) for several seconds (I didn't want to rev it too high for too long because I live in an apartment complex and I don't want to be known as that rear end in a top hat with the loud car) and no codes showed up. Never went into boost but I guess it doesn't do that in neutral though I'm not sure the car has any way of being aware it's in gear with a manual. Couldn't get any farther than that because it turns out the clutch isn't working. At least the part that disconnect the flywheel from the transmission isn't working. I can feel pressure working the pedal and doesn't feel out of the ordinary and the clutch interlock works though I don't know if that works by detecting the position of the pedal or sensing pressure in the clutch line. Either way I can't get it into gear which is definitely a problem. The details of how a clutch works is still a little murky to me but I'm guessing the pressure plate and flywheel may have rusted together to the point that the throwout bearing can't separate them? In any case, even though I do have the tools for it, I don't know what the gently caress I'm doing to be dicking around there let alone doing it in an open parking lot. Of course, that means I'll need to get the car towed to a shop to have any professional look at it since I can't get it into gear and not really feasible to push start it in gear and trundle along to a shop in 1st or 2nd gear. Is there anything else I can do that doesn't involve unbolting a lot of heavy poo poo to get the clutch to work? Or something that I can do to better diagnose where the problem is occurring if my assumption of the pressure plate and flywheel is off base?
|
|
#
?
Jan 27, 2024 21:19
|
|
|
is it a hydraulic clutch? if so, is there fluid in the reservoir?
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2024 09:19
|
|
|
Hydraulics are full and the pedal itself feels perfectly normal. Asking in the AI Question thread, it was suggested that the clutch disc may be rusted tight to the spline on the engine. Apparently, there's a dust cover on the bottom of the bellhousing that should give me a good view of the clutch and flywheel. However while letting it idle, it threw a misfire code though I didn't notice anything audible to that effect. It was suggested that, amongst other things, it could have been because of bad and/or old fuel which is plausible given that it's been sitting for over 6 months. It was also subtly but visibly throwing smoke out the exhaust so, depending on where the oil is coming from, it could have also be the result of fouled spark plugs. The smoke has now become my biggest concern since that indicates a serious issue that needs to be addressed before getting the car roadworthy again.
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2024 16:24
|
|
|
have you tried starting it in gear with the clutch in? note: do this with the handbrake set and nothing 3-6ft in front of the car you don't mind running over
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2024 17:09
|
|
|
Tried it already before. The car lurched but that didn't do anything to help free the clutch. Also researched how to replace the clutch and holy poo poo is that involved. Knowing how they are configured, I shouldn't be surprised but drat. No way I can do that by myself let alone in a parking lot. Hope it doesn't have to come to it.
|
|
#
?
Feb 1, 2024 04:10
|
|
|
I'm not sure how the pedal can feel normal if the clutch isn't releasing. You really need to figure out if the clutch hydraulics are working vs. the fork/release bearing not working. This is a critical difference in the issues and repaird required. Open the hood. Back of the motor on the driver's side. If my kids car was here I'd take a picture, but it's critical to know which issue you have here and don't worry about anything else until you figure it out. But someone needs to push down on the clutch and you need to see what's moving under the hood and take picture. Tell us which parts are moving.
|
|
#
?
Feb 1, 2024 04:23
|
|
|
Had to take a video of the slave cylinder while I pressed the clutch a few times but I do see cylinder actuating and moving. I couldn't actually position my phone easily to get a good angle to see it pushing against the clutch fork but I doubt that's the issue. Not to say that it's impossible but it'll have to wait thanks to the upcoming winter weather. It seems like there is a bunch of under-cladding I need to remove to get access to lower clutch flywheel cover to get a relatively easy view of the clutch and flywheel. That means I'll have to jack the car up onto jack stands which won't be happening soon thanks to the aforementioned weather.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2024 01:12
|
|
|
Edward IV posted:Had to take a video of the slave cylinder while I pressed the clutch a few times but I do see cylinder actuating and moving. I couldn't actually position my phone easily to get a good angle to see it pushing against the clutch fork but I doubt that's the issue. Not to say that it's impossible but it'll have to wait thanks to the upcoming winter weather. If the slave cylinder is moving and the fork is moving chances are pretty good the clutch is moving as well. Maybe the pilot bearing is completely stuck? (the one in the flywheel) But yes, you need to confirm the clutch is disengaging. I guess. Seems like no matter what you're pulling the trans. Or the motor if it needs a timing belt/sealing (easier weay to do the "while you're in there" jobs).
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2024 01:28
|
|
|
The clutch disc sits on splines on the transmission input shaft, not the engine. The flywheel bolts to the crankshaft, the pressure plate bolts to the flywheel, and they squeeze together with springs. The throwout bearing either pushes or pulls on the springs to move the pressure plate disc away from the flywheel and let the clutch disc and transmission spin independently of the engine and flywheel. I can't really think of anything that could rust/seize together so badly and be strong enough to not just break free from the load of the engine/weight of the car when things started moving at different speeds. On push type clutches (most n/a cars, 06+ wrx), it's not uncommon for the stamped steel clutch fork to actually just break where it pivots on a little ball. Happened on my legacy years ago. The pedal will still feel relatively normal, although a bit stiff, but the TOB won't be able to move far enough to fully disengage the clutch. Cheap part, not cheap labor. I think there's a company that makes an aftermarket machined one. You'd want to replace the TOB, check clutch wear, and maybe do a sleeve kit at the same time.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2024 02:17
|
|
|
jamal posted:The clutch disc sits on splines on the transmission input shaft, not the engine. Yeah, my brain wasn't working with the right physics on that one. And I literally just did a clutch in an 08 (with a bad/noisy pilot bearing). jamal posted:On push type clutches (most n/a cars, 06+ wrx), it's not uncommon for the stamped steel clutch fork to actually just break where it pivots on a little ball. Happened on my legacy years ago. The pedal will still feel relatively normal, although a bit stiff, but the TOB won't be able to move far enough to fully disengage the clutch. Cheap part, not cheap labor. I think there's a company that makes an aftermarket machined one. You'd want to replace the TOB, check clutch wear, and maybe do a sleeve kit at the same time. I've changed that underengineered POS clutch fork every time on any of them that I've done. It should be obvious from the engine bay if it's broken. And I was trying to remember where you could see the clutch move from the top - I think I remember a pretty good view if you pull the rubber seal from around the fork.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2024 14:31
|
|
|
Did a bit more research figuring out how the clutch works and why mine isn't and getting mixed up with push-type (which seems to be the most prominent style showing up in my general searches) and pull-type clutches. I think mine is a pull-type because the slave cylinder is behind the clutch fork and pushes towards the front of the car. If that's the case, it looks the throwout bearing separated from clutch assembly because of some kind of failure of the bearing clip that holds the two together. I was concerned that the clip broke since that'll mean needing full access to the clutch to replace it but it turns out that the proper way to release the clip is pressing the throwout bearing into the clutch assembly to compress the clip and then pry the bearing off while the clip is still compressed. I wouldn't be surprised if, when I pressed the clutch in the first time, the clip got caught or dragged on the clutch assembly and stayed compressed while the throwout bearing pulled away from the clutch assembly when it was released. It would explain why vigorously working the clutch didn't do anything and why the clutch felt relatively normal; maybe a little lighter now that I think about it but it was never the nicest feeling clutch or had any nuance that I could feel out. If so, removing the slave cylinder and pushing on the clutch fork towards the back of the car (opposite of its normal motion) to reattach the throwout bearing to the clutch assembly should do the trick. Hopefully, the clip was only briefly snagged and/or worked itself free while I was the engine was idling and I was trying to figure out what went wrong. Slightly worst case scenario, the clip is still snagged and compressed and won't grip onto throwout bearing when forced back on. Hopefully, vigorously pushing on the fork will work it free and at the very least I should be able to have side access to the clip from the lower clutch cover and use a long screwdriver to poke at it. Absolute worst case scenario, the clip is hosed up which I have no idea is a user serviceable item but regardless means needing full clutch access. Would there be any harm in pushing the clutch fork to get the throwout bearing to reconnect to the clutch assembly and hoping the bearing clip works before inspecting the state of the clip? Either way is a pain in the rear end regardless since I'll have to pull the intercooler and slave cylinder for the former and jack up the car and remove a bunch of cladding for the latter. EDIT: Just realized that I confused the motion of the push-type with the pull-type so my supposition above may not be correct. That said, I definitely did not feel or hear anything break when I first worked the clutch. Also looking back on the PO's sale ad, it has ACT clutch and light steel flywheel that was installed at 220k miles and I think I'm only at a bit over 230k miles. Edward IV fucked around with this message at 01:35 on Feb 14, 2024 |
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2024 16:28
|
|
|
I’m thinking of picking up a $5k shitbox to whip around the woods and learn the basics of rally driving. Wyatt from Team O’Neill suggested a 2006 2.5 NA impreza as a good beginner car. Anything else I should consider? Weren’t first gen Forresters essentially on the impreza platform?
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2024 16:55
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 27, 2024 20:04 |
|
|
Head Bee Guy posted:I’m thinking of picking up a $5k shitbox to whip around the woods and learn the basics of rally driving. Wyatt from Team O’Neill suggested a 2006 2.5 NA impreza as a good beginner car. Anything else I should consider? Weren’t first gen Forresters essentially on the impreza platform? Wyatt is a cool dude and knows his stuff. The GC cars are too hard to find or else I would recommend one of those. On a separate note, Subaru seems to be pulling out of the Rally scene. They are ending their Canadian sponsorship and the new England forest rally is cancelled this year. I wouldn't be surprised if Subaru pulls out from Rally completely in the next few years.
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2024 20:33
|
|