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Cat Terrist posted:An RS 2.5 really is a drat good thing. I want one so bad. The closest one is that $5000 I posted ealier.
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# ¿ Oct 31, 2009 02:20 |
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# ¿ May 21, 2024 01:54 |
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Make sure your spare is in good shape, bring a 1 foot square plywood board to stabilize your emergency jack, should you need to use it. Maybe buy a tow strap.
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# ¿ Nov 2, 2009 21:13 |
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scradley posted:It has some minor mods, fartcan exhaust, blow off and intake. I plan to take off the fartcan and BOV. Be careful if the car seems to have been treated poorly: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2973186&pagenumber=20&perpage=40#post353675851 That car cost ELP a lot to get right, though it seemed to be have been modded even more shittily.
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# ¿ Nov 22, 2009 03:33 |
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dayman posted:The GC body style remains one of my favorite Japanese car designs ever. It's just going to be difficult with me starting a job soon to spend so much time performing repairs and tuning. I thought it was pretty broken in? What happened with it?
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# ¿ Dec 7, 2009 22:49 |
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bull3964 posted:Yet, I drove to work this morning in torrential rain with 60 degree temps (it was 30 by the time I left work.) A snow tire would have gotten me killed this morning quote:I'm also going to be making a 120 mile highway round trip on Saturday where it isn't going to get out of the 20s but 'should' be dry. an hour on the highway at 70mph on dedicated snows in the dry?
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# ¿ Dec 10, 2009 08:08 |
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bull3964 posted:I'm sorry, but no. A tire optimized for snow clearing and has siping to get grip on ice is not going to be as optimal for water clearing as a good wet weather all seaason, they are completely different use profiles. One major difference between snow tires and all seasons and summer tires is tread depth. People frequently let all seasons and especially summers run down and have shallow tread, radically making it easier to hydroplane. While snow tires tend to give up contact patch for the sake of their tread blocks, they resist hydroplaning because of how irregular their surface is. I know the comparison test was a bit of an ambush by using a crappy all season, but even assuming some awesome all season could beat the snow by dozens of feet in wet braking distance, that isn't the whole story to driving safety. People still have to drive more carefully and within the limits dictated by the weather. The only easy conclusion to draw from the comparison is don't run summers in the snow. 8ender posted:Thats when I want the most grip I can get. Dry and wet driving is a cakewalk compared to a good snowstorm. Yeah, completely agree. Beyond the context of a skidpad test, it is so much harder to see and read road conditions while it's snowing than even when it's pouring rain. When you're the first car out, you have to look pretty sharp just to see where the edges of the road are.
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# ¿ Dec 10, 2009 22:29 |
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bull3964 posted:It doesn't really matter what kind of tires you are running if you are running them beyond their useful life and aren't paying attention to them. In that sense, the comparo is appropriate, cuz tons of people run lovely Chinese "all-season" "tires." That said, I'm sure the RE960 will work out just fine.
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# ¿ Dec 10, 2009 23:49 |
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Slow is Fast posted:If you are in New England and want to learn to drive better and safer in the snow, I highly suggest you look into taking the winter driving course at Team O'Neil School. It's money well spent. It's a good class, but it's easy to get sucked into the full 4-day school (or more, depending on who you are) because you're right along everyone else there for the rally school. After the first day, you have to leave while everyone stays to keep learning other stuff. People who are serious about it should sign up for their mailing list, as they occasionally have really good discounts for classes. The only Subaru they have in their trainer fleet is an old GC coupe, with a ridiculously hard to get into 3rd seat in the back. But damned if that isn't the fastest and easiest car to drive by far.
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# ¿ Dec 11, 2009 05:03 |
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Just Another XY posted:drat, why is it so expensive. $4k+ for 4 days, as an ex-student already in debt, haha. The insurance and maintaining the cars, I imagine. I ploughed in a radiator and broke the brake lines on 2 separate cars on the 4th day. That wasn't even the worst damage that day. Last year one of the sessions was discounted 40%, you just have to decide to up and do it when the chance arises. Possibly one of the few really unique motorsports things in our area.
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# ¿ Dec 11, 2009 10:00 |
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If the clutch is slipping as you accelerate from the stop, then yeah, that could cause your symptoms. Do you notice if your RPMs stay the same when you'r shuddering?slowspeedracer posted:i will go back and "hopefully" wrx swap.
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# ¿ Dec 24, 2009 20:34 |
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slowspeedracer posted:Clutch is not slipping when starting from a stop, just when overtaking on the highway. If the clutch isn't slipping, it can't be the source of any shuddering, since the rest of your driveline is connected as normal.
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# ¿ Dec 26, 2009 20:48 |
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Tiny Faye posted:People rallycross in outbacks? Now this is something I gotta see. I've seen plenty of them at rallycross. Not hard when about 75% of the field is Subarus.
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# ¿ Dec 27, 2009 17:55 |
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If I were a prospective buyer, I might prefer to do those things myself after having owned the car for a while. Seems unlikely that you'd be able to get your money's worth by making the car more appealing to the buyer.
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# ¿ Jan 21, 2010 22:41 |
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bull3964 posted:I don't think he was talking about his '02, he was talking about what to do to the '10 right off the bat. Oh dooiiii. Explains the tail light comment. ab0z posted:I just want to thank all of you like kimbo and jamal
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# ¿ Jan 22, 2010 00:00 |
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Cuntpunch posted:I don't keep up with auto news very closely so perhaps my info is outdated or incorrect: My understanding is that Toyota and Subaru are working together on a RWD coupe - to be badged a Toyota in Japan and a Subaru elsewhere. If this is the case, can someone explain to me the marketing logic that would put a non-AWD Subaru into the US market? It seems like they've spent what, 15 years, building up their reputation for being The All Wheel Drive Brand and they're going to toss that away? you can read a bunch of discussion about it here: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3208427 I don't see how it would throw away Subaru's reputation. They don't have to market it that hard to get some sales to Initial D fanboys. Liz and Sally are not gonna get all mad at Subaru for putting out a small sporty coupe that isn't AWD.
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# ¿ Jan 24, 2010 06:30 |
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Just Another XY posted:I think I'm just going to play more DiRT2 quote:and save up for some swaybars in the future.
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# ¿ Feb 8, 2010 23:06 |
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Cat Terrist posted:Soften the front up, reducing grip on the rear is simply covering the real problem. Your car is not weight shifting right Isn't that how the torsion bar VWs handle naturally? e: gently caress I thought this was the rally thread.
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# ¿ Feb 9, 2010 04:58 |
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toplitzin posted:Hmmm, The Dunlop Direzza Sport Z1 Star Spec is $105 per tire with a $50 rebate. this could be the win. How are your HTR Z III's with wet handling since we love out rains here?
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# ¿ Mar 22, 2010 23:07 |
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8ender posted:Really the strangest gap in their lineup right now is the massive difference between the NA models and the WRX. Its a huge chasm right now. I'm not sure if a weak sauce mid market WRX is the answer or that Subaru would even be able to build one cheap enough to fit there. Maybe the Toyobaru is the missing piece. Maybe they could cripple a WRX motor with weaker internals and put on a smaller turbo and call it an Impreza Turbo or something. The price gap isn't insurmountable, so I dunno if they necessarily need to do that model speciation.
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# ¿ Mar 23, 2010 12:05 |
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Zsbaug24 posted:I have an STI. And I never felt like the sidewalls were particularly soft. I've never had them roll on me even when I was autoxing. I dunno, perhaps I'm just extra easy on my tires. I think the major problem I find with subarus and tire life is the stock alignment. The 0 camber on the fronts will burn them up faster than anything. I had serious issues with the tire life until I had some negative camber put on the front. I ran my car with decent negative camber up front and got plenty of rollover at 40 psi at the track: Did you guys who were getting good wear rotating very frequently, and benefiting from opposite wear front to back or side to side?
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# ¿ Mar 30, 2010 05:15 |
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Lowered and even stiffer spring rates. Doesn't that mean more work for rally guys who're doing production class to set the cars back appropriately for rally?
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# ¿ Apr 1, 2010 17:46 |
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This is kinda neat: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110527740468 If only it were street legal for MA...
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# ¿ May 5, 2010 22:02 |
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I dunno why he is including a Legacy trans but didn't swap it in in the first place over the 1.8L tranny.
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# ¿ May 6, 2010 17:41 |
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warwick5s posted:The DWS wear indicator on those Contis is such a good idea that I have no idea how it wasn't thought of earlier. I bet because most tires don't do that well in as wide a range of conditions, and aren't advertised as such. Also, if there's only set of indicators, that's asking a lot of the average car driver to check on them once in a while.
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# ¿ Jun 4, 2010 19:52 |
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My friend's 1996 2.2L Impreza needed new plugs and wires. While it was in shop, he asked the mechanic to check on the timing belt. The mechanic said it was a bit cracked and he'd recommend replacing it and the water pump. The car has 49k miles on it. Do most people change their belts at 60k or so instead of the advertised 105k?
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# ¿ Jun 9, 2010 20:57 |
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RealKyleH posted:If you care at all about sporty driving why didnt you get a WRX? I think he's said before he couldn't afford it and the insurance.
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# ¿ Jun 11, 2010 17:12 |
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How did your paint hold up?
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# ¿ Jun 28, 2010 01:00 |
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My friend says the power loss he feels when the A/C is on in his 2010 STi is extremely noticeable. Is that par for the course?
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# ¿ Jul 21, 2010 19:42 |
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Seat Safety Switch posted:If my 06 is any indication, yes. It's a four banger after all. I suspect you can reduce it with a replacement underdrive(?) pulley but I don't know what the consequences of that are (if any). That's what I brought up with him, but what about a tune? Is there enough wiggle room to get some extra torque from a tune with no other mods?
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# ¿ Jul 21, 2010 22:45 |
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Sockington posted:Just throw two on each side of the bed, plop a piece of glass over top and call them bedside tables. Bonus storage in the middle. I've heard that tires slowly give off some chemical used in their manufacture, which isn't good for breathing. Is that true?
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# ¿ Oct 21, 2010 06:07 |
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JayKay posted:Tell me why this car is a bad idea Is that really the price that Imprezas carry in DC?
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# ¿ Dec 5, 2010 16:09 |
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Blaise posted:Act of God. Insurance should cover ya What coverage do you have to get to cover those things?
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# ¿ Dec 19, 2010 20:29 |
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Zap Branigan posted:I was told that you cant replace just 2 tires on an AWD system because it would gently caress my transfer case or something. Is this true? quote:Also I got some Nitto All Seasons stuck on there... Does Nitto make a decent tire or should I look into getting some extremecontact allseasons next time? Well you already got it, so ride them out. By the time they need replacing, there're probably be a new ecosystem of tire models that will need consideration.
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# ¿ Dec 20, 2010 18:44 |
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8ender posted:I've played with the AWD in a Rav4 (the slip and grip type) and it was the worst. Like this bad:
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# ¿ Dec 31, 2010 01:40 |
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This single picture has had me poking around for red hawkeyes. Cat Terrist posted:SHE'S BACK! And I guess a 2006 given CT's compliments on the specific suspension setup. Did those suspension vagaries happen with US WRXes?
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# ¿ Jan 12, 2011 23:46 |
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jamal posted:Generally they'll just start clunking due to stiction between the inverted strut insert and housing. Is stiction the reason you hear clunking from any strut, other than strut mount problems, I mean. Or is the clunking particular to those STi struts?
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# ¿ Jan 18, 2011 21:29 |
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infrared35 posted:Roger that. I wasn't wondering whether it was a good buy so much as I was wondering what the heck could be so badly damaged on a $12000 car that the insurance company would total it, when to my layman's eye the damage appears all cosmetic and doesn't even seem to reach the wheels. The C-pillar near the start of the trunk looks tweaked. I could never trust a car with that kind of damage.
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# ¿ Feb 12, 2011 06:44 |
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As DJ Commie said long ago, there's no way they could keep those proportions and run an AWD transmission behind a boxer motor; it'd have to be RWD. Subaru in the US doesn't seem to be as vocal about talking to its community/fanbase outside of official channels, but it is weird that they haven't floated the idea of expanding the brand with a small car that ditches AWD for sportiness.
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# ¿ Feb 23, 2011 19:22 |
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nm posted:Well you could, a la Nissan, but it would be a complete rework of the way Subaru has done AWD for decades You certainly could do it the normal RWD->AWD way. I don't think the Subaru engineers (or accountants) would lay down for such a corporate demand, though.
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# ¿ Feb 23, 2011 20:39 |
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# ¿ May 21, 2024 01:54 |
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allonblack posted:http://jalopnik.com/#!5772305/this-is-the-subieyota-is-it-awd Despite Jalopnik trying to diss the placard at the show, the mockup shows packaging that doesn't rule out possible AWD. From this angle: http://www.autoguide.com/gallery/gallery.php/?g2_view=largephotos.Largephotos&g2_itemId=338990 it seems like the engine is just barely ahead of the front wheel axis. I can see the platform being one suitable for Subaru AWD, which maybe is what the placard was saying.
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# ¿ Feb 28, 2011 22:27 |