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TurboLuvah posted:I still change my oil every 3k on the clock no matter what, in any of my cars
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Dec 14, 2008 11:39
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Bud Manstrong posted:There's no question the oil can definitely go longer than that. The problem is that when owners come in for blown turbos from the banjo bolt screen getting clogged, people have been reporting that they're getting denied warranty coverage if they're not following that 3,750 mile TSB. Again, I drive hard, but this is also good oil (pentosin)
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Dec 14, 2008 22:03
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jamal posted:on my n/a 2.2, blackstone said it was fine to go 7500 on semi-synthetic. 
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Dec 14, 2008 23:08
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MMD3 posted:gently caress, they can't be that cheap can they? Les Schwab charged her $85/tire for them.
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Dec 15, 2008 03:09
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MMD3 posted:I've never spun my tires so they can't be that horrible. does anyone actually have any reviews that prove they're the shittiest thing ever or something? Tires are the best modification you can do to your car and can really transform your car.
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Dec 15, 2008 08:44
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jamal posted:it takes a lot of power to spin four wheels. Braking and cornering have a lot less to do with the awd and a lot more to do with the tires.
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Dec 15, 2008 09:29
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BannedForLulz posted:Hey guys, im going to be driving to Florida from Chicago this Saturday. Im running a Cobb AP 93 Octane map and wanted to know if 93 Octane is actually available down where im headed (I should be taking I-75 all the way down and I'll be right outside Port Charlotte.) If there indeed is no 93 Octane down there, can I revert to a 91 Octane map now and run 93 on the 91 map until I fill up with the 91? Even here in minnesota, 93 is hard to find.
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Dec 16, 2008 02:07
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bull3964 posted:6. Slight shudder in steering wheel under high speed braking and slightly at highway speeds (gonna try rotating tires to see if it changes.) My Subaru currently sounds like a turbo prop. Awesome!
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Dec 19, 2008 08:51
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Turbo Car posted:Did you get everything repaired? My car got seriously hosed: The wheel bent (this seems to happen all the time, the LGT wheels seem fragile. One shop has two LGTs that just came in with what looked like 3 perfect wheels each, but once they put them on teh spinner, all 6 were bent. Finally got a decent used wheel). The control arm bent The tie rods bent And now it seems like the wheel bearing was damaged too. poo poo and I was like 10mph or less when I hit too. Rally heritage my rear end. Need to find me parking lots sans curbs  I should try to get subaru to replace the wheel bearing under warranty (I ahve 500 miles left) as they haven't fixed anything but recalls under warranty, but somehow I think the sight of a new CA and tie rods would make them wonder. Regarding ABS. I had that happen as well. At least on the LGTs, there is a small space between the wheel hub and the sensor ring, just perfect for getting rocks caught in them. At a particularly rocky autocross site (canterbury), it seems a rock got in there and just tore up the sensor ring. ABS failed. I spun twice that weekend (legacys don't spin easy), flat spotted my RE-01Rs, but won ESP both days taht weekend. At least on the LGT, the sensor ring is part of the wheel bearing making it a bicth to repalce. Seems a design defect too as the sensor ring is insanely weak and the space is just perfect for trapping rocks.
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Dec 19, 2008 09:35
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bull3964 posted:I'm not so sure that my shudder is a wheel bearing as there are no other symptoms. I've had the car up on jacks and grabbed the wheel and tried pulling it in all directions and there's zero play in it. So, while possible, I'm not convinced.
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Dec 19, 2008 20:57
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bull3964 posted:So, what's the latest word in brake pads that will see mostly street and about 10 or so autocrosses a year? Looks like my front brakes are just about shot. HPS is probably better for autox as I think they deal with less heat better though. I've actually been thinking bobcats for my next set as apparently they'll play nicer with my track pads (XP-10).
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Dec 28, 2008 01:28
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Me-262 posted:No, go with the HP+ and you'll be fine. They take so little time to warm up that usually its only a "first thing in the morning" issue and even then you just press a little harder at the first stop sign. Not like you'll run through it. I've never had HP+ (as they don't make them for the LGT), but I've always thought that first run capablity (the reason Z1s are so popular) was pretty important for auto-x. I've never gotten anything resembling fade in auto-x. For track days I'll agree, but that is a very very differnet situtation.
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Dec 28, 2008 05:52
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You just need a cloth seated legacy. Only Subaru car I've ever felt completely comfortable in (6'4") How much is money an issue. Really tall people get seat rails modified -- go to a junk yard and see how they're mounted up. If you're in luck, you can just relocate the holes in the rail. Then you can even use the OEM Seat (meaning you get to keep the airbag).
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Dec 31, 2008 22:41
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DONT DO IT posted:Sorry if this isn't the place for this (doesn't really seem thread worthy), but what do you guys think about the 06/07 Legacy GT? Is the spec.B worth the extra effort to find? FYI 05 will give you a wagon with a manual and the option to not have a sunroof or leather. The 06 spec B is only worth it if you don't plan on touching the suspension. (That is thie rmain improvement). The stock base LGT handles notibly worse than the spec B, but with an upgraded suspension an LGT will be better than a Spec B (and spec B with the same suspension will be basically the same except for the lighter CAs). The 07 spec Bs get a 6-speed which is nicer than the 5 in the base LGT. It is hard to say if it is worth it or not though.
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Jan 2, 2009 21:41
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Fantastipotamus posted:It's the STi 6-speed, so it'll run lower RPM at highways too. I'm just below 3k rpm at 80mph, and my fiancee's Outback w/ the 5-speed is at 3500rpm at like 72 or so. The 05-06 LGts also have a different final drive than the 07+. (The 05-06s are quicker, the 07+s get better economy) As for the other stuff, that is extra weight. The transmission, suspension, and r diff are the main differences.
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Jan 3, 2009 06:19
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Sabotaged posted:I'm taking my '05 LGT in on Monday for them to take a look at my squeaky clutch pedal. Not so coincidentally, the warranty on the car expires the day after. Is there anything in particular I should get them to take a look at before it expires? Oh and the clutch seak is likely just a switch.
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Jan 3, 2009 06:33
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Fantastipotamus posted:I would say that you want to be sure you're okay with the stereo in the 05/06 Legacy, as it's not really upgradable (there are options, but there few/far between and expensive). If you've got an ipod/other mp3 player and you're okay listening to it through an FM transmitter, then you're fine. Also, if you see one, sit in a non-limited 05. I find the cloth in the non-limited better than the leather. (And the sunroof eats a shocking amount of headroom) Also, replace the goddamn tires if it stiull has the stockers. I've been without my car for a month (I'm out of town). I've driven an RX-8 around the track, I get to drive an Infiniti M35x (whgich is very nice), but drat do I miss my car. These's just something "right" about the Legacy GT. nm fucked around with this message at 00:55 on Jan 8, 2009 |
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Jan 8, 2009 00:52
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MMD3 posted:ahhhh, that's right... forgot about that. I was looking at LGT's and was thinking about how much that would suck.
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Jan 8, 2009 07:53
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ssjonizuka posted:What's up DGM LGT buddy? The only reason i don't have one is that the PO's 30k mi tore up the front end already. The paint sucks.
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Jan 12, 2009 11:53
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5spd? Either way, you'll love it. I highly recommend getting a clear-bra on that ASAP.
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Beerios posted:Is there any difference between the Outback XT and Legacy GT wagon besides the taller springs and a few bits of plastic? I desperately want a wagon with a turbo and a stick, and I've been looking at getting an LGT sometime this year if finances allow, but manual LGT wagons are like hen's teeth, whereas Outbacks with the same configuration are much more common (and were made for more than one goddamn year). I don't really mind the looks of the Outback (plus the two-tone finish looks less likely to suffer the death of a thousand stone chips), and whichever wagon I got would be getting new struts and springs pretty soon anyway, so is there any good reason not to expand my search? Also, am I likely to get a better deal if I hold off till spring/summer, when fewer people will care about AWD, much like the way convertibles get cheaper in the winter? Also, the suspension setup is a bit more than just springs. People have to buy different suspension setups for them and good ones are rare.
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Jan 13, 2009 01:41
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TeamIce posted:So I've decided to put some serious power into my Legacy GT - I've already got a Perrin catless uppipe, Perrin catted downpipe, and Perrin top mount intercooler sitting in my garage (Haven't installed any of these yet). I figure that since I'm going to have the install professionally done, I might as well go whole hog, and just replace the turbo while I've at it - I've got a Deadbolt 18G on order. I figure with all this and a proper tune, I should be pushing around 320 horsepower at the wheels. However, there was some guy with a pretty heavily modified LGT wagon here running to stock cans (though I believe the rest was replaced). There is some value in it as it runs quiet as hell, pretty sleepy.
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Jan 16, 2009 07:22
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I would opt for the Outback XT or Legacy GT wagon over the Outback H6; not necessarily because the H6 is worse, but because I suspect it's hard to go back from forced induction to free breathing. Additionally, once you do get the urge to go and tune it (you will) it will probably be easier. You may want to consider the same generation legacy GT if you don't need the clearance. Those are the same 2.5L NA as the others, but comes with some different handling equipment. However, I've heard that until 05, the 2.5 NA may have headgasket issues, but I'm no expert.
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Jan 28, 2009 17:37
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If you can pad a few more bucks, get a 2006, with the 2.5L turbo Torks! Oh and also don't forget the 9-2x, which is a WRX trying to look like a SAAB. They tend to be really cheap. They also had the STi steering rack and some extra options.
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Feb 3, 2009 05:51
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MMD3 posted:I'm sure this is pretty common-sense stuff for you guys but it helps me understand it quite a bit. I'm sure the tires and my speed were definite factors but I certainly slammed on the breaks quite a ways back in anticipation of the corner. I think I figured the ABS would do everything for me and most likely panicked and over steered. I distinctly remember seeing the other car in the ditch and thinking "oshit, brake brake brake" before sliding a good 10 yards. You MIGHT have been able to do a bit of a scandinavian flick (mad tyte drifto), but if you're lacking some real skill (espcially given the tires), it likely would have just resulted in your car wrapping around that tree. tires are everything in the snow.
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Feb 3, 2009 17:58
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kimbo305 posted:For the better. In the accelerate after straightening out scenario, if you didn't nail it and get grip you woulda slammed into the back of that Mazday thing. Given your tires and the stuff around you, two feet in really was the best choice. Any other, you might have svaed it or you might be shopping for a new car.
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Feb 3, 2009 21:46
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Nerds. I press pedal and car goes!
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Feb 4, 2009 15:51
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TurboLuvah posted:There should be an absolute poo poo ton of Subarus in Pennsylvania as well, they're all over the North East. Any questions about shops in Pitssburgh seem to be unanswered or answered with dealers. This surprises me.
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Feb 6, 2009 07:30
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dreggory posted:That's fine. I really didn't have any frame of reference when I started looking so that 'budget' was just a shot in the dark. If $150/tire is what will get me some nice rubber then I'm perfectly happy paying it. They're treated me right and gone well above the call of duty. This season I killed my Dunlops (Z1s) within 7 autocrosses and 7000mi (yay heavy AWD cars). I had another autcorss in late august and everyone was out of Z1s due to nationals. Discount tire said the could get them. They hosed up and got DZ101s. One day before the next autocross. They order up some RE-01Rs and mount some 615s for free. I inform the guy that they would be coming back destroyed (2-3 autcorss events before the RE-01Rs showed). He didn't care. They mounted $400+ worth of tires (probably only $200ish to them, but still, they didn't have to do anything) at no charge to me to save my next two weekends. That is loving sweet and earned a customer. They also use torque wrenches and the employees generally seem more with it than lube moneys (though i still watch em) Know the tire you want before hand and know what tirerack charges. They'll price match it (plus no shipping and mounting fees) nm fucked around with this message at 07:56 on Feb 7, 2009 |
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Feb 7, 2009 07:49
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Slow is Fast posted:How do you like your RE-01R's? I have some on my 2.5RS and love the poo poo outta them. I got new tire time coming up soon so I was wondering what others had to say. Way better then the Dunlops I had before and they poo poo all over the RE92's. The Z1s are a better dry autocross tire, they heat up sooner. The RE-01Rs are better on the track IMHO (they hold up to heat better) and are easier to live with on a daily basis and the rain performace is great (2 days are blackhawk in the rain, awesome). They also seem to resist rolling better than the Z1s. They're also discontinued though (I've heard good rumors about the new tire, but nothing solid) the Z1s are also, much cheaper.
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Feb 7, 2009 19:18
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I'd also note that on at least the heavier cars (mine is 3300, whcih isn't that heavy) the 615 suck balls comapred to teh z1s and RE-01Rs (And the Z1s in my size cost about as much as falkens)
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Feb 7, 2009 22:07
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kimbo305 posted:Where in the Northeast? If snow is on the ground for a couple months out of the year, the RE-01Rs won't cut it. You'll have to get a set of winter tires or downgrade to all seansons. RE-01Rs even on dry pavement below about 40F get scary. They're a summer only tire
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Feb 10, 2009 06:12
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wrok posted:This is how they got me -- fell in love with a rental. As of last night, I'm the proud new owner of an 06 Legacy. I had an 2005 Legacy 2.5i sedan rental and though, hey, this would be a sweet car with a turbo, a manual, and a bigger trunk. Thanks Hertz!
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Feb 11, 2009 21:06
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Turbo Car posted:And they tram all over the place. Hit a paint line at 10 mph and you're going where ever it's going.
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Feb 11, 2009 21:58
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BastardAus posted:Guys, I was just going over the pros and cons of an ex-fleet boring as poo poo 2006 Toyota Camry (circa 10-30000 miles) OR an 05 2003 SUBARU LIBERTY 3GEN MY03 RX AWD SPECIAL EDITION which is a wagon with 88000 miles on it. The 2003 N/A 2.5s may have head gasket issues. The 4-speed subaru automatic sucks to drive, but is actually quite durable. edit: Wait, an 05 2003 Subaru Liberty? is that a 2005 or a 2003? ssjonizuka posted:Hey guys, quick question. 08 LGT, CBE - I got a K&N panel filter for my birthday (last july) and have yet to put it in. I know general consensus is any sort of intake mod you need to get tuned. Is that true of the panel filters as well? To be perfectly clear, I have not had the car tuned at all. No AP/UTEC/etc.
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Feb 12, 2009 16:03
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pdavious posted:I was the proud owner of a 2001 WRX (bugeye) for 500 miles, before second gear decided to explode. Does anyone know the cost of a gearbox for one of these, I'm in the UK. The transmission on thsoe are the weak point of the car.
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Feb 15, 2009 04:16
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ssjonizuka posted:In short, I'm lucky to average 21-22 my commute during winter.
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Feb 19, 2009 20:00
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ssjonizuka posted:The extra bloat of the GT doesn't help. I also just changed out my air filter (17k miles on it), so I'm hoping that will help a bit as well. Though the 05s are quite a bit lighter than the 08s.
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Feb 19, 2009 20:43
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Eugene Debs posted:So I've decided to trade in my 99 Impreza OBS. It also needs outback specific suspension, of which there is a very small amount. Don't buy the Megan racing coilovers unless you like your coilover becoming 2 pieces. Itherwise pretty much everything engine wise works (not cat backs) Eugene Debs posted:The thing is I wanted to go with a used Outback XT so I could get the current gen Legacy platform. I even found an 05 locally with a manual. If I was to get a used Forester, I'd be getting the older platform, which I don't like as much, and I've never even seen one with a manual transmission, which is a must. If handling matters and you want a wagon, i'd recommend holding out for a 2005 Legacy GT wagon. You mayt have to travel for it, and they cost more. The Older FXTs did come in manual. nm fucked around with this message at 02:46 on Feb 21, 2009 |
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Feb 21, 2009 02:43
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Eugene Debs posted:I looked at Legacy GT wagons, but I do a lot of driving on rural roads with sporadic at best plow service and even borderline offroading, so the added clearance of an Outback is a big deal. (Note that the stock LGT wagon does have 6in of ground clearance, the OB has something like 8-9in) Go drive one They're pretty good handling for something with more ground clearance than many (if not most ) SUVs.
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Feb 21, 2009 03:50
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TurboLuvah posted:From what I've seen 9-2xs have been selling for less than comparable WRXs for some reason, it's very strange.
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Feb 23, 2009 04:24
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