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BannedForLulz
Feb 19, 2008

8ender posted:

This is fantastic thanks. One question though. I have an automatic. Where would I find this access hole?

While I cant help you with this, I can tell you that even the shittiest of impacts (electric or air) will get that crank pulley bolt off if you have access to it. I used an AutoZone brand electric impact to get the crank pulley off on my Corolla (torqued to ~250lb/ft)

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BannedForLulz
Feb 19, 2008
Quick Subaru related question: I noticed that in my 04MY WRX when I get anywhere above 4k RPM in first, when I clutch in to shift, the engine and transmission seem to lurch...like move more than they should and I can actually "feel" them moving, when I shift into second and let the clutch out, everything is smooth again. This seems to be slightly more aggressive when I am shifting closer to redline and the speed with which I operate the clutch doesnt seem to make them move any less. I was thinking the mounts might be going but this happens only in first gear and only above 4k rpms. Is this just normal Subaru "stuff" or...what? Help me goons!

BannedForLulz
Feb 19, 2008

Lando posted:

Ugh..called the dealer about 30K mile maintenance. They wanted close to $500 just for factory recommended items. Called All Aspects, a local Subaru specialty garage and they said $220. Hmm..

Oh god, dealers. Im used to changing spark plugs on small I4s, which take all of 15 minutes. At first glance the boxer looked much more tedious. I decided to ask the local Subaru dealer during an oil change how much they charge for changing the spark plugs, "The spark plug change is $300." My jaw literally dropped infront of him. "Oh, its because the WRX uses SPECIAL PLATINUM spark plugs, theyre advanced." I was really fighting back telling him I wasnt retarded.

BannedForLulz
Feb 19, 2008

Cat Terrist posted:

The worst thing about driving a worked WRX for a DD right now is that I get home and look at my car and get dirty thoughts :( I suspect it wont stay standard now for long.

The worst thing for me is god forbid I take it up anywhere near 3k rpm from a stop in first gear (with a TBE so the revs are more pronounced). Everyone from taxis to soccer moms in minivans smash the go pedal because they think im racing them. It is however slowly getting more and more amusing than it is annoying.

And by standard I am assuming you mean "stock"? If so, then you should know that my Cobb "Stage 2" WRX gets rather squirrely in first, even with an audible leak of somekind somewhere no doubt robbing some power. Its scary now that I think of it.

BannedForLulz
Feb 19, 2008
I have a 04MY Impreza WRX 5-Speed that just hit 56,000 miles. As far as I know the PO just did the oil changes. Is there anything that I should be setting aside money for in the forseeable future as far as replacing parts should go?

BannedForLulz
Feb 19, 2008

FecalFajita posted:

I'm thinking about picking up a 2002-2005 WRX with around 50k miles. It seems like everyone just beats the poo poo out of these cars though...Are there any tell tale signs that these cars have been beat/neglected?

I bought what is considered to be the absolute biggest no-no in WRX purchases, an 04MY with 52,000 miles, modded with a full exhaust and a loud rear end blow-off value, and with an Accessport tune, and the PO was a 23 year old college student which flat out told me, "I was going to transform it into a rally/drag car."

It did however, have receipts for all the modifications installed by AMS. It had the stock transmission and clutch and the clutch grabs perfectly. Everything checked out great and it had an idle smooth as butter. Was it the best purchase? No. But I havent regretted it at all, and I got it for ~$3,000 cheaper than anything else on the market at the time (plus two sets of wheels and tires!)

Moral of the story, dont let a modded WRX scare you away, BUT, shop smart and have a mechanic look it over. If it doesnt feel right, let it go and see another car.

BannedForLulz
Feb 19, 2008
Any recommendations for an all season tire for an 04MY WRX? I have a set of Pilot Sport A/S on there right now and theyre great in the dry, but they seem horrible bad in the wet. Last night they lost all traction on a moderate stop and I slid halfway out into an intersection (with almost sliding into an intersection twice before.) I dont need the best per se, but something that I wont kill me.

BannedForLulz
Feb 19, 2008

Registered Loser posted:

Thanks for clearing that up man. Everything on this car seems to be bone stock and that was the only thing I noticed.

If this is a dealer, it might not have been bone stock during most of its life. The Subaru dealer here swaps parts back and forth between their trade-ins to get the cars as stock as possible. So the reason that the intake tract might be missing is because that STi could have had an actual aftermarket intake on it at one point. I didnt let poo poo like that stop me from buying my WRX, but just letting you know.

BannedForLulz
Feb 19, 2008

Qapf posted:

Thanks for the opinion, I hate to piss off the entirety of Subaru owners but I like the look of the new 08 Wagon compared to the previous incarnation, the redesign is what caught my eye. As for the performance, my test drive is tomorrow and I'll see what it feels like. My previous cars will be a Toyota Camry and a Honda Element, so I am not exactly coming from a horribly high end car family to this thing. Maybe lowered expectations will help here.

I came from a Toyota Corolla to my WRX and it felt like a goddamn rocket. Granted mine was already a Cobb Stage 2 (yeah, yeah, I know about the "stage" stuff AI), but you should still feel like the WRX is invincible in a drag race when you drive it.

BannedForLulz
Feb 19, 2008

Argon posted:

I've heard references to "stage" but I have not learned what it means. Have a link or a 30 second explanation for me by any chance? I'm still learning about my WRX.

Also, when I first got my WRX after selling my Honda Civic, it did feel like a rocket. An incredibly fast, almost out of control rocket. It is awesome. :D

Well, when most companies out there release their products in "stages" its meant as a kind of "level of modification", where the Stage 0 - 1 type product would be a very mild modification (air intake upgrade, muffler, etc.), and the Stage 2 - 3+ would be a more extreme modification (bigger turbo, injectors, etc.), but in reality its very vauge and most companies love to throw the term around to help push product, which is why AI hates it (and why you find "Stage 9 Blow-off values and mufflers on eBay.)

Pertaining to the Cobb Accessport (which is hugely popular among the WRX crowd, please google this further if you havent heard of it), Cobb has a "Stage 1" and a "Stage 2" "off the shelf map." Its basically a little handheld programmer that is plugged into the ODB-II port, and through this handheld programmer you can now update the fuel/spark map thats in the car. The "Stage 1" map is made for a stock WRX and it modulates the fuel trim to get more horsepower and torque. The "Stage 2" map is for a person that has a full turbo-back exhaust on their WRX, so that this map can modulate the fuel trim more aggressively without risk of ping or detination, which in turn results in even more horsepower/torque gains that the "Stage 1" map. These "off the shelf" maps means you pretty much buy the programmer, plug it into the car, press some buttons, and you have now updated the fuel information for an improptu dyno tune. Pretty neat stuff. So what I have is the "Stage 2" of that off the shelf map. According to Cobb, this is good for +53 HP and +68 lb-ft (93 octane - typical gain).

EDIT: I should also note that both these "Stage" packages also increase boost slightly. Stage 1 to 14.5 peak psi and Stage 2 to 16.5 peak psi.

BannedForLulz fucked around with this message at 00:59 on Dec 4, 2008

BannedForLulz
Feb 19, 2008

bull3964 posted:

I agree 100% with this. I've had RE960as on my car since November '06 and they have been amazing. They have seen two (going on 3) PA winters and all the bits inbetween. Snow, ice, torrential rain, cold, anything. They feel the same nearly all the time. They've also lasted the longest out of any tire's I've had before. I probably have close to 30k miles on them at this point.

I will probably have to replace them before the winter is out though since they are getting closer to the wear bars, but so far I haven't noticed any decrease in foul weather performance though they are getting a bit more squealy when pushed as of late though.

I'm probably going to replace them with the same thing. Nothing else on the market seems to stack up even after 2 years.

Hmmm. Theyre a little pricey for me at ~$150 a pop, I like to go for around the ~$100 area. But I see people are singing their praises, and the tires I have on there now are honestly scary in anything but bone dry so I guess I will be purchasing a set of these come spring. Thanks for the heads up guys.

BannedForLulz
Feb 19, 2008

Ultimate Pal posted:

Hello AI. I picked up this practically brand new 05 this spring with less than 3k miles on it. It’s been nothing but awesome so far.



How is this possible? Did someone buy it and forget about it? I put that much on my car in a month and I dont even drive much, poo poo.

Im immensely jealous because this is what I wanted to purchase, but I couldnt afford the extra ~5-6k "STi" tax. I instead grabbed an 04 WRX but it came with some goodies on it so I am content. Congrats on joining the Subaru family.

BannedForLulz
Feb 19, 2008

Qapf posted:

Thanks for the advice in this thread guys, A week ago I went ahead and purchased my 2008 Impreza WRX. I would post pictures but shortly thereafter some dickhead decided my front bumper needed a nice sized scrape, so less than 300 miles into a new car I get to go to the body shop.

Anyone know if they can sand down and just repaint these plastic panels from scrapes, or they just going to tell me to buy another? This poo poo isn't cheap.

If its THAT new, I have seen some dealers buff it out for their customers real quick (if you can buff it out that is.)

poo poo like this pisses me off to no end. Im glad mine has folding mirrors, for not two days after I bought mine I come out of the store and and drivers side mirror is completely bent outwards toward the front of the car, and scratched. It means someone hit the drat thing while parking, went into the store, shopped, and then got back into their car and left as if nothing ever happened.

BannedForLulz
Feb 19, 2008

"[ELP posted:

"]
I'm going to repost this from the AI stupid questions thread because I think that it might get some more accurate responses here.


Some things I didn't note is that the Check engine light was on at the end of the test drive, I don't think it was on when I started. Someone suggested that it could be a "Safe Mode" issue but I believe that fact that it will rev to 6k+ at idle and in first makes that a moot point I think?

I think that the TB Coupler or IC Y-pipe could also be causing this issue? Governor chip malfunction maybe? Could it also be giving issues like this if the ECU is tuned to modified parts no longer on the vehicle? Anyone have any thoughts?

I cant tell you what is wrong with it, but I can tell you that I wouldnt touch that car with a 10 foot pole.

BannedForLulz
Feb 19, 2008
Hey guys, im going to be driving to Florida from Chicago this Saturday. Im running a Cobb AP 93 Octane map and wanted to know if 93 Octane is actually available down where im headed (I should be taking I-75 all the way down and I'll be right outside Port Charlotte.) If there indeed is no 93 Octane down there, can I revert to a 91 Octane map now and run 93 on the 91 map until I fill up with the 91?

BannedForLulz
Feb 19, 2008

Roast Beef posted:

do you have the AP V2.0 that does real time maps? If for some reason on the way there you couldn't get 93 you could use a real-time economy map and you should be OK I think. It runs wastegate boost iirc.

I do have the V2.0 (as best as I can tell), I didnt know that it did real-time maps. I thought that it had to be in test mode with all those connectors hooked up. Hmm.

Well, my plan was to run the 93 octane map until I run into a row of stations without 93 octane, at which point it should take me but 10 minutes to pull out the AP and its needed clips, etc. and upload a 91 octane map right there at the station. Or is this not going to work how I am seeing it working in my head?

BannedForLulz
Feb 19, 2008

TurboLuvah posted:

10 minutes after this was taken a woman driving a Toyota Avalon spun out, and some guy in a Silverado (the one you can barely see in that photo) flying down the left lane panic braked, and just plowed into her front end, spinning her, and someone else in the other lane then nailed her.

Then on another on-ramp, an 80 year old man in a Prius almost creamed me from behind, but I saw him skidding and got the hell over out of the way just in time for him to slide up onto the curb, and look at me all surprised. Slow the gently caress down you retard it wasn't my fault!

Everyone in Massachusetts stay off the roads! There are so many shitheads out driving right now it's not even funny.

My plan is to chill out and wait until about 1am when no one is out driving, then go and find some empty parking lots :q:

Edit: These Nokians were worth every penny. I forgot how awesome they are in the snow, especially when it comes to braking.

Oh god, I feel your pain. We just had a minor snowstorm here in Chicago. Seeing as the roads werent plowed yet outside the city (where my dealer is) I decided to go get an oil change and have some fun on the way there. On my way back an older lady in a Galant hits a larger lump of snow in the road (which is already snow covered mind you), freaks out, and smashes her car off the road into a giant snow bank and slides out into the middle of one lane of a two lane road. So shes stuck there and im behind her still going 40mph. Thank god the garbage truck next to me saw what was happening and moved over to let me change lanes otherwise I would have totalled right into her.

Then I took a left turn into another two lane road (which had only one lane driveable, the other was covered in a good foot of snow) and I took it just a tiny bit too fast and skidded deep into the snow covered lane. Some nice guy pulls over and goes, "Do you need help getting out of there." I tell him, "No, I think I'll be all right" and do a first gear "burnout" right the hell out of there and was on my way. I love Subarus.

BannedForLulz
Feb 19, 2008

Bampalo posted:

I've got the high speed braking shudder going on, and since my rotors have been resurfaced once before I'm told its a no-no to do it again.


Ugh, I have this too on my WRX. PO said he had the rotors turned and put new pads on. After doing some high speed braking after I purchased it I noticed the shudder. I figured it was time for new rotors and pads since whats on there now brakes like poo poo. Any recommendations for a good set of rotors? Im already going to put purchasing HPS pads since I have had good results with them in the past.

BannedForLulz
Feb 19, 2008
How common are gasket failures on the exhaust manifold for the 04MY WRX? I had a feeling mine has been leaking there for some time and yesterday I noticed smoke coming from the area up through the engine bay long with a strong exhaust smell for a few seconds. How hard is it to get to some of those bolts? Im guessing its a day-long project to change those gaskets?

BannedForLulz
Feb 19, 2008
I know this is more "WRX" specific but I trust AI more than the Subie forums out there, so here it goes:

Would anyone here have any experience with the turbo inlet hoses (2004 WRX)? I was going to grab this Samco knock-off: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/02-0...sQ5fAccessories

It looks like its very high quality for a knock-off. Does anyone have experience with this particular product? Install tips? I know that the stock hose has to be destroyed unless I want to remove the intake manifold, but do all the stock hoses that attach to the inlet hose attach in the same places on this one as well? (If im not mistaken, the APS has you change the hoses a tad.)

BannedForLulz
Feb 19, 2008
I've been getting oil changes at the dealer just using their "bulk" oil basic change. If I were to start changing my own oil what is something comparible? Just any 'ol 5W-30 will do?

BannedForLulz
Feb 19, 2008

VERTiG0 posted:

I'm looking at an '06 WRX wagon, but it has 136,000km (about 85,000 miles). Should this be scaring me? It's only $16k and has a clear title.

Tad on the high side price wise. I picked up my 04 WRX with a Stage 2 setup with receipts from AMS, 52k miles, for $14k even. Came with 2 sets of wheels too.

BannedForLulz
Feb 19, 2008
Thanks for the oil tips guys, looks like I am going to be using Castrol. I had used Mobil 1 5W-30 on my previous boosted Corolla and everything seems to be working fine as far as I can tell. It did start eating some oil though right before I parted it out.

BannedForLulz
Feb 19, 2008

MMD3 posted:

hey guys, what's up in this ditch? what's that, you both work at Nike too? cool, coworker buddies.

Please tell me you were able to redeem yourself and you drove out of that ditch while going, "I dont think I'll be needing a tow after all."

BannedForLulz
Feb 19, 2008

Just Another XY posted:

Conversely, if I were to purchase an '08 wrx, and wish to get it up to par with an '09's performance, what would I need to spend/buy?

Sorry, this vroom vroom car thing is really new to me, I've only ever come from a 2001 Civic with about 2 horsepower.

VROOMVROOM

I came from an 03 Corolla with a slushbox. It doesnt matter if you get the slower 08, it'll feel plenty fast for you. As long as you wont get used to the speed and have it feel "slow" within a few weeks I would probably just grab an 08.

BannedForLulz
Feb 19, 2008

Bud Manstrong posted:

"Wait ... that thing's got four-wheel drive? Can you take it mudding?"

"Is that a Camry?"

"Is that an Altima?"

"I thought those cars were Australian."

"But it doesn't snow down here."

"Why's the radiator on top of the engine?" :smith:

I vacation in Florida every year and I can attest to stuff like this. Just this December I had half a parking lot gawking at my muffler (its the HKS Hi-Power so it is a pretty drat big muffler.) Some lady walked into another car while looking at it and walking. Hilarious.

What really gets me though is, theres absolutely no Subarus down there. At first I thought it was because they were AWD, but theres TONS of raised AWD asphalt queen trucks no matter where you look so that cant be it. I saw one Subaru the past 2-3 years down there. I gave him the "Subaru buddy wave" like we all normally do here in Chicago (yeah, we're cool like that) and the guy gave me a weird look and took off, probably thought I was gay.

Oh well, atleast my car finally turned a lot of heads. Ha.

BannedForLulz
Feb 19, 2008

ssjonizuka posted:

In short, I'm lucky to average 21-22 my commute during winter.

My 04 WRX with an exhaust leak is getting 16 mpg right now. :smug:

BannedForLulz
Feb 19, 2008

kimbo305 posted:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=106147
Techs at this guy's dealership thrash his car. But he had a running inboard camera setup, and caught everything.

This is my greatest fear. Even when I am in for my oil change I watch my car like a hawk. (Yeah, I dont change my own oil. Too lazy.)

BannedForLulz
Feb 19, 2008

RealKyleH posted:

It's a little embarrassing but Ive only driven automatic cars and have maybe 10 minutes and 2 miles of time behind a stick car. I'll certainly try to take it easy on it though. I've replaced a transmission before and don't really want to do it again any time soon.

Everywhere I read that Subarus 5 speed transmissions are a love/hate kind of thing. Theyre notchy (I can vouch for this) and are supposedly one of the hardest transmissions to learn on. I learned on an 04 WRX. It took me a good two hours before I was comfortable to drive home in traffic. I stalled a lot during the first two weeks. It took me roughly a month of daily driving to go from "learning to drive a manual" to "enjoying driving a manual". Now at 5 months of driving manual under my belt, while I still have a lot to learn (need to do a track day or two), I feel very confident in my manual driving abilities. Give it some time, and take it slow. I drove like a grandma at the beginning.


RealKyleH posted:

EDIT2: Ugh the Cobb is $700 :(

Worth every penny in my book. Im pulling these out of my rear end, but isnt it something like +40hp/tq with a stage 2 flash? Yes sir, may I have another.

BannedForLulz
Feb 19, 2008

Bud Manstrong posted:

Good luck finding a WRX around Central Florida, though, especially a wagon. I was originally looking for a WRX wagon before I fell in love with the LGT, and when I brought it up to the salesmen at Palm Subaru here in Gainesville, I basically got laughed at. They're few and far between down here, especially in good/stock condition.

This. Im down in Florida atleast once a year and during the past 2-3 years down there I only saw one other WRX, and it was a sedan at that. Here in Chicago we all wave at each other when we pass (Subaru love bro), I waved at the guy in Florida and he looked at me like I was crazy.

Now if you want to buy a Corvette in Central Florida...

BannedForLulz
Feb 19, 2008

raffie posted:

I'll be getting a catback exhaust (Fujitsubo) and APS CAI for my '08 WRX hatch, would it need a retune with just these items or will the stock ecu be able to compensate?

When it comes to tuning the general opinion here (in singapore) is that Opensource or ecutek reflashes will be worthless as the car will 'relearn' or revert to the original parameters. Is there any truth in this?

If im not mistaken, the consensus among Subaru forums is that you absolutely need a tune with an intake. There are numerous threads of people having issues with their intakes, nearly all of them didnt tune after the install.

And while I cant help you about the ECU problem, I know Toyotas ECUs are notorious for this. I had a piggyback on a boosted Corolla. I would flash a map, and literally by the end of that day the ECU would revert back to some other settings it decided it liked better than my map.

BannedForLulz
Feb 19, 2008

MMD3 posted:

So I'm normally pretty happy with Oregon not having self-serve gas stations. I mean when it's rainy and cold out it's awesome that you don't have to get out of your car. Tonight however I had my first bad experience at a gas pump in my entire driving life.

Gas attendant comes to my window after I'm waiting for like 2 minutes.
me: "fill it with premium please"
attendant takes my card and runs it, comes back with card.
attendant: "did you say regular?"
me: "no, premium"
attendant walks around and hits the regular button and runs off to another car
I'm sitting there looking at the pump thinking wtf?
3 minutes after my car is done filling the attendant finally comes back to take the pump out, walks around and hands me my receipt.
I look at the receipt really quickly, sure enough, price of regular is on it.
me: "hey, I asked for premium, did you fill my car with premium?"
attendant: "yeah" as he's running away to the next car.

rear end in a top hat... I suppose part of it could be attributed to a language barrier or something but dude only really has to have like 3 words memorized and he even asked for clarification and I gave it to him.

Im not trying to be all "Im a big man, I can do it myself" here but I hate gas station attendents. When I was going to Mt. Rushmore, I stopped on a back road in a state which escapes me now, but the guy wouldnt let me pour my own gas. I should be able to pour my own gas. Its not some kind of complicated procedure.

EDIT:

And after not letting me pump my own gas, he asked for a tip.

BannedForLulz
Feb 19, 2008

Menorah on Fire posted:

I ended up looking at it for my area code and got $13,645 for private party, but after looking at the local dealerships and seeing the same car going for almost $20,000, I'd say I'm pretty set. Any major recommendations before I get serious with this guy?

STis are demanding super high prices here in Chicago too. When I was shopping for my WRX 6 months ago I couldnt find a single STi under $20,000, private party of otherwise, that wasnt a rebuilt title.

Im not super knowledgeable on these cars just yet, but I would probably ask to make sure the car was maintained well, had the timing belt and water pump replaced, and ask if that turbo is still stock, as I would imagine its probably not got much life left in it. Althought dont let that deter you, used VF39s are dirt cheap and plentiful, and swapping one out isnt impossible (though I would imagine even with the price of the turbo figured in, your still going to be under $1,000 if your going to have a shop swap it, in which case youve STILL paid a great price for everything in the end.)

Oh yeah, I would get a compression check too, just to be on the safe side.

BannedForLulz
Feb 19, 2008

TurboLuvah posted:

3qts Redline Lightweight Shockproof with 1 qt of Motul Gear300 synthetic should do nicely :)

I have also read that straight Motul Gear300 is good. I plan on doing that in the near future just because I dont feel comfortable mixing fluids.

BannedForLulz
Feb 19, 2008

uc0083 posted:

My abs overreacted to any road imperfection while braking which didnt inspire confidence in it.

This is my only gripe about my 04 WRX. I'll hit a sewer while lightly braking in the rain (slightly slicker than the road) and ABS goes loving nuts and all 4 tires break traction. Its quite frightening. I've actually had this happen in the dry twice, except without breaking traction...but still, ABS goes nuts.

Which actually reminds me, is there a way for me to disable ABS without throwing any CELS/affecting the ECM? My old Corolla had no ABS and I felt much more confident in its braking abilities than I do in the WRX.

BannedForLulz
Feb 19, 2008

8ender posted:

drat, installing a car stereo in an bugeye Impreza is stupid easy. I wish I had done this months ago. Took me a half hour including soldering the wiring harness. I got tired of that stock Clarion unit displaying ERR6 and generally being a piece of poo poo. The new stereo is so much better even with the existing speakers.

Would you be so kind as to link to the dash kit and/or wiring harness that you purchased? Thanks!

Also, in regards to your comment. I remember being told that the WRXs stock speakers aren't really all that horrible, and that replacing the head unit actually makes them sound much better.

BannedForLulz
Feb 19, 2008

TurboLuvah posted:

Just ordered some Redline Lightweight Shockproof and Motul Gear 300 for the tranny, will report back when I change the fluid. I'm hoping it will be butter smooth :)

Im using straight Motul Gear 300 in my transmission and diff and I love it.

BannedForLulz
Feb 19, 2008

TurboLuvah posted:

I'm doing the Redline/Motul mis in my trans/front diff, but I also want to change the rear diff fluid. I don't have enough of the above fluids for the rear diff, but I'm guessing that it doesn't really need any of the special stuff. Would just regular Valvoline 75w90 gear oil be okay for the rear diff? Also, it's a 2002, so no T-70 torx bit, but is it 21mm or a 22mm drain plug?

The drain plug on the rear diff is the exact size of a 1/2" ratchet. Just stick the end of the ratchet on there as if the drain plug were a socket.

BannedForLulz
Feb 19, 2008

Qapf posted:

Mine always had a noticeable change whenever you went off the gas in the lower gears. if you don't want it to chug, don't just let go of the gas but ease off. What is happening is your car is transitioning from the engine pushing the powertrain to your powertrain pushing the engine, if that makes sense to you. You are the throttle control, smooth it out.

This. Also, no matter how smooth I try to make my transition, if I am in 1st the car bucks like a bitch if I dont clutch in when I let off the gas. Any other gear I am fine. It'll take some practice, but you'll get it right.

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BannedForLulz
Feb 19, 2008

MasterOfDemons posted:

I just recently picked up a 2003 WRX in silver. Picked it up at a dealership in Jersey with 54000 miles on it, mint condition. Already had work done to it such as 3inch turbo back exhaust, HKS bov and turbotimer, springs and shocks, ACT clutch, CAI, and some other things. I'm looking into doing a new turbo setup with a FMIC, any recommendations/etc for before I go ahead and do that?

Sure. Unless your going 20G or larger on the turbo and running 25+ psi and/or running a blow-thru tube on the front mount, ditch the BOV. Your going to have people tell you they are for ricers, and your going to have people tell you that they're just fine. Personally, I bought the car with a BOV and switched to the stock bypass valve and there was a night and day difference in driveability and throttle response, especially in the lower gears (for the better with the bypass valve of course.) If you want it just for the sound, you'll be able to hear the stock bypass valve through the cold air intake.

You also dont need the turbo timer unless the turbo your going to upgrade to is oil cooled only. The stock turbos, and almost all of the aftermarket turbos as well, for this car are both coolant and oil cooled.

Also, most cold air intakes will need to be tuned for on this car, so unless your positive this is the case, or are going to upgrade very soon, I would get tuned.

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