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Disclaimer: my wife threw away all my flannel. 1995 Subaru Impreza Wagon 1.8 Paid $850 for it 2 years ago with 190k miles. Here's the day after I bought it:  and 40k miles later, here's a trip from this summer: 
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Oct 3, 2008 01:38
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VideoTapir posted:FWD or AWD? All Wheel Drive, High five!
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Oct 3, 2008 05:14
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To clarify, whose car was having the replacement motor installed? Another customer?
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Oct 4, 2008 01:36
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funkyboogaloo posted:Also a question, I want to change my diff/trans oil soon, what kind of oil have you guys put in your Subaru's that you were happy with? OEM or OEM equivalent grade and weight. I've used Valvoline synthetic gear oils without incident.
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Oct 4, 2008 01:51
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For those asking about the XT: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_XT Seems to be a fairly informative entry.
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Oct 6, 2008 17:47
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cmorrow001 posted:Any suggestions? I've used winterforce with good results, and they're the cheapest thing firestone has listed right now by about $40 a tire. Blizzaks are badass also, I have a friend that uses them on a couple cars; Unfortunately they're much more expensive.
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Oct 15, 2008 06:07
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Tell him $4k sounds good, but you'll need to take the cost of that upcoming repair off the price.
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Oct 17, 2008 20:37
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One trick I've seen work is show up with a wad of cash. If you show up with $3850 in hand, they'll have a hard time saying "no". (and by cash I mean ready money, not "I'll talk to my bank and see about financing'.) I saw a friend show up to buy an STi for 23k at this guy's place. He walked around the car and started ticking off things on a clip board and hacking off the price. Then he was like "well, I don't think it's worth more than 19. but really I'd rather pay 18.5. Should I write the check?" and they took it. (he later sold the car for 23k after fixing 2-3 minor cosmetic items).
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Oct 17, 2008 22:47
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kimbo305 posted:Suckers take 18.5k personal checks. Anything past 2k people should ask for a money order or bank check. Well he didn't actually say "should I write the check", it was more like "do you want this stack of money and cashiers checks?". The point is that money talks and if the seller knows you're serious and sees money they're more likely to sell immediately at a lower price.
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Oct 18, 2008 02:42
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Mr. Powers posted:Two halves that split down the middle, with the oil pan on bottom (where else?). I really have no idea how they are stuck together, though. They're held together with love. It's part of what makes a subaru, a subaru. 
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Oct 29, 2008 05:30
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Call and ask the guy if it's AWD? Or, get the VIN and you can find out that way. If either of those methods fail, get the seller to take a picture under the car in the back. If there's no differential then it's FWD.
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Oct 31, 2008 05:16
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What is the actual code that it is throwing? I'll ask my friend tonight about the problem and post again if he has any ideas.
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Nov 22, 2008 00:49
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Qapf posted:Hey Guys. I am thinking of getting an 08 WRX, as the local dealership here in Santa Cruz seems to be knocking about 5,000 off their 08 stock and I was wondering a few things. First, beyond NASIOC which seems to be filled to the brim with retards, is there any descent Subaru forum on the internet? What I am mainly interested in finding right now are simply the prices others are getting on 08's in the current climate of "Oh crap, we still have 08 stock sitting on the lot" that seems to be going on. As far as I know, the only reason they're going for so little is nobody wants them. The styling is considered by many subaru enthusiasts to be bland and the performance to be uninspiring. The cars are capable, and certainly nice, but (in many enthusiasts' opinions) they lack the character of the previous generation. Also the sticker prices were pretty high for what you get. Drop the price by 4k and it's pretty good deal. Keep in mind most of this is just opinion, but opinion that I've heard firsthand from many of my friends that have had various previous incarnations of the Impreza WRX. If you like the car, and the price is low enough, then there's probably no reason not to get it.
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Dec 3, 2008 22:41
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Qapf posted:Thanks for the opinion, I hate to piss off the entirety of Subaru owners but I like the look of the new 08 Wagon compared to the previous incarnation, the redesign is what caught my eye. As for the performance, my test drive is tomorrow and I'll see what it feels like. My previous cars will be a Toyota Camry and a Honda Element, so I am not exactly coming from a horribly high end car family to this thing. Maybe lowered expectations will help here. It doesn't matter what nastycock thinks as long as you like the car. Besides, every single time the release a new version everyone makes a huge stink on the internet, then a year later it's all forgotten. The 08 redesign was a little different, mainly due to the handling differences and price point. Bottom line, we'll still love you if you get an 08, and you can still come to parties.
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Dec 3, 2008 23:02
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Coffee Jones posted:I see 3 of these on CL any given day. Recession. I dunno man: quote:Transmission: 6 Spd Automatic You really want an auto?
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Dec 12, 2008 16:38
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Mr. Powers posted:Higher than normal capacity just means that it will hold a little more oil that normal filters, so as long as you have it up to the proper lines on the dipstick, you're fine. Correct. Just look in your manual, it should list "with filter change" and "without filter change" capacities for oil changes. Just put the correct amount in, let it settle a few minutes, then check your levels. Add oil as needed, allow to settle, then check again. The first time you stop for gas, check your oil level 5 minutes after you turn off the car, while it's still warm.
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Dec 31, 2008 06:40
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idiotsavant posted:So now it looks like the leak may be from the heater core - I was driving to work this morning and noticed steam coming from under the steering column. Turned the heater off, no steam. Heater on, steam. How much of a pain in the rear end is it to replace, and should I get a new one or just a $40 clunker from a pick n pull? It may be just a hose cracked and leaking, or the valve that controls the flow of coolant through the core. Usually it's not super complicated to fix those kinds of issues, just annoying because you're working upside down under the dash, or you have to remove the dash.
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Jan 6, 2009 22:47
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bull3964 posted:My new pads (Hawk HPS) Speaking of which, I believe autohausaz.com is having a sale on them right now, if anyone is interested. autohausaz is a great vendor that I've ordered from several times when I needed misc stuff for my subaru, and their customer service is fantastic.
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Jan 27, 2009 18:07
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jamal posted:the entire internet seems not to understand how dccd works. You think it's bad here, try going to nasioc and starting a discussion about any diff related subject.
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Feb 4, 2009 16:59
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bull3964 posted:Really, what it boils down to, is time. Is this a subaru dealer or independent shop?
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Feb 6, 2009 01:12
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bull3964 posted:Dealership. I haven't been able to find any independent shops that specialize in subarus. Sorry if I missed it, but what year is your car?
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Feb 6, 2009 02:54
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dreggory posted:I may be completely off base here, but I tend to lump them together with all the jiffy-lube type places. Kids running around using air tools on everything, breaking poo poo, denying it, etc. That happens at most places. Firestone broke 3 lugs in one visit on my wife's car, and it had only been like 3 months since the wheels were last off it. Now, I've take about a million wheels off a thousand different cars, and never broke a lug ever not even once. Even when we were standing on a cheater bar 4 feet from the wheel and just bouncing up and down.
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Feb 7, 2009 04:03
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What is the benefit to a rotated mount turbo setup? Just to facilitate routing the charge piping?
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Feb 16, 2009 07:12
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meatpimp posted:The only down side I've found is the loudness. The 3" turbo-back made significantly more power than the stock STi axle-back I'm running now, but it was ridiculously loud. Yeah that's been my issue with the fast subarus that my friends have had. I would love a system like the corvette z06 has where a vacuum controlled butterfly opens up after a certain throttle position is reached to let you enjoy the sound at full throttle, but keep it quiet around town and when cruising.
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Feb 17, 2009 23:45
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3500 sounds like a good starting point. Paint alone starts at $200 at any decent shop (unless you "know a guy", but I'm assuming you don't). This damage requires metalwork, so it'll be more I'd imagine. Perhaps you can take it to a shop of your choice for an estimate?
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Feb 24, 2009 02:11
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For some people it is. It's not too bad if you have realistic expectations going into it, and a big space that you can occupy with wires for a while. Label things profusely when you remove it from the car, lay it all out, unwrap everything identifying and labeling as you go, carefully check, double check, and triple check which wires will be cut/removed/added/merged and label them. Then one wire at a time, perform the surgery, check the connection, and label it. Repeat for all operations on the harness, then wrap the wires, and label wires/connectors as necessary, and test continuity. Then just plug it in. Pretty easy really.  The best advice I've been given on this subject is this: If you think you can't do it, then you can't do it.
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Feb 25, 2009 00:50
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nwin posted:Brought the car into the dealership today. He said both cats needed replaced. Luckily, it's all covered so no charge to me. He said I need to get the 60k maintenance done ASAP because that could have helped cause the cats going out. My car has 67k on it, and when I checked what the 60k maintenance is...I'm a little skeptical it needs it, especially for the pricetag of 500 bucks. It is basically a full fluid flush and replacement of spark plugs...all which I can do on my own for WAY less than 500 bucks. This link has the full service schedule: http://scom-qa.subaru.com/owners/schedules/schedules.jsp?schedulepage=2004myfed.html Summary of 60,000 mile service: Inspect timing belt and accessory belts, adjust/replace if necessary (not mandatory till 105,000 mile service) Oil change with filter Replace fuel filter Replace air filter Replace spark plugs Inspect Differential and AT (if applicable) fluids. Full flush of brake fluid (do this to maintain brake performance, and extend the life of the pistons in the calipers) Inspect all brake components, adjust parking brake Inspect clutch, steering, etc. systems. One thing I would recommend is also flushing the fluid in your hydraulic clutch system if equipped. The fluid degradation is not nearly as noticeable in the clutch performance, but if not flushed occasionally debris will collect in the slave cylinder and accelerate wear causing eventual failure. I'm not saying that it will happen right away, but if you just take 10 minutes to do it you might save yourself an inconvenient parking lot repair down the road a ways(ask me how I know).
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Feb 25, 2009 07:21
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Personally that's at least $5000 more than I would pay for the car. If it's 110% perfect inside and out, with dealer performed oil changes documented, no aftermarket parts on the vehicle currently or ever, and they fix the exhaust rattle, it might be worth it if there are no clean private party STIs within 200 miles of you. If it were me I'd start with 2k off the asking price, then drop the price to cover the new tires. Also look into the warranty coverage, and confirm that it's still in effect. Check to see if any service bulletins apply to the car and confirm that they were performed. If they're saying only $5700 for the truck because of tires and the windshield, go buy tires and get your insurance to replace the windshield.
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Feb 25, 2009 15:44
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atomicfire posted:I got an absolutely immaculate 2005 STi with 15k on the clock for 27k. This car had NO mods, NO issues, NO problems carfax or w/e. Yeah, 12 months ago my buddy bought exactly what you just described for 17.5k
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Feb 27, 2009 05:13
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I'm guessing nothing corresponds to the AFR scale on that graph, as a 33:1 AFR at 3500 rpm probably would have undesirable consequences.
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Mar 11, 2009 14:10
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CharlesM posted:It's the green line. You're right. I looked at it and thought I was seeing stock vs modded power. Excuse me for a moment, I need to get another cup of coffee.
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Mar 11, 2009 16:25
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The only thing that will fix what you're talking about is an H6.
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Mar 11, 2009 16:45
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The factory service manual is fantastic.
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Mar 16, 2009 16:06
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I realize that, and buying them isn't for everyone. However, if you plan to own and service your car for a long time, having documentation that you can count on 100% is worth a lot more than the purchase price.
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Mar 16, 2009 17:46
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Yeah, but I didn't want to get banned for 
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Mar 16, 2009 18:53
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That's what O'Hagen was talking about.
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Mar 17, 2009 14:31
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There is a lot of opinion on the internet about fluids, but you are guaranteed good results with OEM fluids. They are more expensive, but the quality is guaranteed and there are some sites that may save you money over the dealer. (subaruparts.com, subarugenuineparts.com, etc.) The link a few posts up will have sections that tell you quantities, etc.
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Mar 17, 2009 17:56
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https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/index.php?cPath=33_92 They have your gear and diff fluids, but as mentioned, the gear oil comes in a large container. Have you checked with your local dealer to see what service costs there to have this stuff done? I always advocate doing things yourself, but if they have a good price then you could save yourself an afternoon under your car, plus the assurance that it's done right. Maybe you could pay them to do just the transmission and differential service, and do the rest yourself?
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Mar 17, 2009 18:41
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I just talked to my friend that has owned and tuned more STIs than I can remember, he said for the diff you MOST DEFINITELY should use subaru fluid, for the trans use the appropriate weight and viscosity gear oil of decent quality, synthetic not required. *keep in mind this is for the STi, and its 6mt, not the regular wrx with the 5mt*
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Mar 18, 2009 00:18
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| # ¿ Apr 28, 2024 11:04 |
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Like I said, there is a lot of opinion on the internet about what to use, but the oem brands are guaranteed to work correctly. One of our friends has run high 10s in his STi, with oem fluids in the drivetrain.
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Mar 18, 2009 03:50
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