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RealKyleH posted:That's what mercury sable and impreza/saabaru wagons are for. I'm not sure I like what you're implying.
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Mar 31, 2009 02:25
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| # ¿ May 13, 2024 12:15 |
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That is true, many aftermarket hoods weigh more than the stock, especially if you have a WRX. (aluminium, correct?) Also, PLEASE paint your CF hood when you get it, it looks tacky and riced out if you don't.
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Apr 2, 2009 15:29
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bull3964 posted:So, I finally decided to replace my front o2 sensor since my inspection and emissions is in June and I want to make sure I don't cut it too close as far as the car making it through all its cycles before the time comes. That's their plan. "From A to
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Apr 14, 2009 05:24
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GravityDaemon posted:I guess this is more of a general question, but does anybody know if you get your odometer reset for something like this? I dug around NASIOC but I couldn't find anything there. No. The odometer is never reset. Even if you get a new odometer, the odometer is not adjusted. What usually happens there is a plate/label is affixed to the car detailing the mileage of the car when the odometer was replaced. The best you can do if you're looking to document it is note it in the service records - if possible get a printout of the official subaru history showing the service.
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Apr 21, 2009 01:24
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GravityDaemon posted:Got an update from my dealership - the engine will have to be replaced, and they've ordered a long block (Im not sure what they meant by that, anyone care to elaborate?) and it should be put in by next week. I'll be picking up a loaner tomorrow night for my troubles. When I actually talk to them face to face I'd like to get a real run down of what actually happened. "Longblock" means the block, rotating assembly, and heads. They will move all your accessories (alternator, AC, PS, etc) over to the new engine.
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Apr 21, 2009 18:03
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I don't even know what to say to that.
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Apr 24, 2009 14:19
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dayman posted:that's just insane. Congratulations, you just figured out the 2.5RS market. Those cars used to be a great way for someone with some mechanical skill to cheaply get into a performance car, by doing a swap, etc. Now everyone is doing it including lots of people that have no idea what they're doing in a garage. this means that they're all either really expensive, really broken, or just generally thrashed.
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May 5, 2009 14:37
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Parthenogenocide posted:What's a reasonable final sale price to buy one with 85-100k miles on it. KBB: 2003 WRX 85,000 miles Good $9,570 Fair $8,645 (I'll drive to your house and give you a dollar if you find one in "excellent" condition) Given your description of the condition of your 4runner: Fair $2,075
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May 6, 2009 15:03
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Febtober posted:I'm having an issue related to the headgasket on my 2001 Forester (as I gather many people are...) I should go ahead and get the fact that I know precious little about cars out of the way... well, if it's a warped head a shortblock won't do anything for you. Probably the cheapest option is to find a used motor and replace the headgaskets with the updated parts from subaru before installing it in your car. It could be even cheaper if you can find just heads, but who knows why the seller might have taken apart the motor so be wary.
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May 12, 2009 03:27
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TurboLuvah posted:3qts Redline Lightweight Shockproof with 1 qt of Motul Gear300 synthetic should do nicely You're uncle scotty, aren't you.
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May 12, 2009 20:37
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Cat Terrist posted:Why do you want coil overs for? You can do a lot with normal struts. And I would point out that cheap coil overs are NOT better than say a simple Bilstein insert with uprated springs. You need to view entry level coil overs as something like DMS 50mm - then you really do get something you cant really do with a Bilstein insert. poo poo dawg my coilovers ride so rough that's how I know my suspension is so badass (what I'm saying is, you're correct)
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May 12, 2009 23:26
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jamal posted:doooooooood Que?
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May 13, 2009 05:44
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Holy poo poo that thing is loving huge
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May 27, 2009 15:16
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Bob Sapp Please posted:I hope the fine example of humanity that did this breaks his knees. Vincent: What's more chickenshit than loving with a man's automobile? I mean, don't gently caress with another man's vehicle. Lance: You don't do it. Vincent: It's just against the rules.
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Jun 1, 2009 01:26
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Dr JonboyG posted:So, speaking of clutches, I've noticed that when you depress the clutch in the 9-2x, there's a noise, a bit like a much quieter gear whine like you'd get in reverse. I'm quite sure it didn't used to make that noise. Does anyone else know what I'm talking about? It could be your throwout bearing maybe?
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Jun 10, 2009 05:27
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toplitzin posted:I'm now due for my 90k service, should I take it to the dealer with a 10% off coupon, or one of my 2 normal mechanics around the corner from the house? well if you don't care about the price, take it to the dealer (subaru dealer that is). If you do care about the price, and the family mechanic is way cheaper, and he'll use genuine parts, and you trust him, then go there. What model car do you have? For most models the 90,000 mile service doesn't require much mechanical work, mostly fluid and filter changes. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=995498 and https://www.subaru.com/my-subaru/maintenance-schedule2009.html in particular. I'd recommend doing the service yourself, it's enlightening and you'll save money.
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Jun 10, 2009 20:07
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Some stores carry that stuff, you'll have to check. However, unless you have some special requirements or good technical reason to go aftermarket, I'd just use the original type fluids. How much is your dealer quoting you for the service? Remember to ask for a breakdown on what's included, and compare it to what's listed on the service schedule at that second link. Line by line what they say should match, as it's the official subaru schedule. If they omit anything, ask about it. If they add anything, ask why.
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Jun 10, 2009 20:22
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toplitzin posted:I tired calling them, they seem to be a bit swamped. I just got the coupon from my MySubaru account. According to my service manual, the only replace items are air filter, coolant, transmission, brake, and diff fluids. An additional thing to do would be bleed the clutch hydraulic system. Not so much for performance reasons, but to prevent premature failure of the slave cylinder. Debris can collect there and wear out the seals. This of course is if you have the manual, if you have an auto then this doesn't apply.
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Jun 10, 2009 20:44
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My friend had some prodrive wheels on his wrx and was told they were hella flush. He promptly traded them for enkei RPF or something that were significantly lighter and less flush.
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Jun 11, 2009 01:42
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69sofine posted:Dang the 02-04s have glass transmissions? I learned to drive stick on my bugeye and I stalled a good number of times. I hope that's not true. I love that bugeye. If it's a subaru 5 speed, it's a "glass transmission". My friend that has rebuilt a few of them says the probable common cause of failure is when you shockload the unit with a hard 1-2 shift, the input shaft flexes and the resulting incomplete gear engagement causes the ensuing gear tooth salad. The 6-speed is an entirely different transmission, and shares nothing with the 5. If you look at the 6 you will see the adapter plate between the trans and the subaru bellhousing. The solution to the problem with a subaru 5 speed is: Get an STi, and never worry about it, or get an aftermarket gearset, they're hard to break, or just don't shockload the transmission by launching hard (drag racing, etc).
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Jun 19, 2009 16:23
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ssjonizuka posted:I don't feel like that is true of the later year model 5spds. Though not as indestructible as the STi, they're far from being "glass" in the LGT. I know people that were pushing 3-400 WHP through the stock 5spd. Yes, I'm sure how you drive can affect any transmission, including the STi, but I think the 5spds can still hold a reasonable amount of power. Yeah they can hold a lot of power, but you'll still break them launching hard enough, whereas the STi trans is unbreakable pretty much at all. The 5mts have been improved slightly throughout their life, but the basic design still has the same flaws. It just comes down to how you drive it. Edit: at the shootout last weekend a 2004 blew the trans, and that was the year they made the gears stronger. A whole bunch of GC/GM/GF cars (many turbo swapped) and any number of 02+ cars all ran without breaking transmissions. The thing to break was actually axles - the GRD car I think broke 2 or more, and I helped change one on a 98 impreza. ab0z fucked around with this message at 20:10 on Jun 19, 2009 |
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Jun 19, 2009 19:54
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Cat Terrist posted:
how exactly did you manage that? Which vehicle is this?
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Jun 23, 2009 14:38
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8ender posted:Looks like the two pot brakes on my MY2002 NA Impreza. Thats some impressive damage. They're twin piston, but with both pistons on one side?
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Jun 23, 2009 14:43
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Dreadite posted:Guys, what is the opinion on higher mileage subarus? https://www.subaru.com/my-subaru/maintenance-schedule2002.html Ask about the timing service - has it been done? If not, it is overdue (scheduled for 105,000). Check that link (scroll down for PDF of service schedule) for other things to look for.
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Jul 13, 2009 20:24
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bung posted:Got the WRX back with a new longblock and now i have to take it easy for the next 1000 miles for break in. Subaru gave me a 100k mile extended warranty as a goodwill gesture. That's good to hear. It's not as much about making a product that never fails as much as it is properly dealing with a failure if it occurs, and it seems subaru has done the latter.
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Jul 16, 2009 06:41
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You could have a cracked turbo oil line. First time it happened to my buddy we were here: and it was a 1 hour drive to the nearest dealer, that didn't have the line in stock. (but helpfully used resources in their attached body shop to repair the line so we could get home :3 ) It happened a second time to the replacement oil line (correct oem part, new). He has since replaced it with a flexible line (braided stainless steel something-or-other) and just crossed 230,000 miles at the dragstrip. The part is not super hard to replace, but isn't pleasant if the engine is hot. DEFINITELY CHECK YOUR OIL before you drive it again, and check it again at each stop.
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Jul 20, 2009 23:23
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In case anyone in the area is interested, there is a cruise. If you would like to go send me a PM, or if you're too poor/cheap to have PMs, I guess just reply here.
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Aug 6, 2009 02:13
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Tiny Faye posted:Does anyone have a cargo/privacy curtain they wanna sell me used that will fit a 97 outback? One of the clips on my snapped off and is no where to be found....right now it's "fixed" with an allen wrench duct tapped and acting as a hook. They go for like 130 bucks new for the whole shebang replaced and I am loving broke right now and I have duct tape keeping something together in my car. Oh god I know $100 isn't much cheaper than $130 but is this what you're looking for?
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Aug 16, 2009 21:48
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Tiny Faye posted:Oh man i think I might be able to fix it for realsies! Oh cool I didn't know about that site - thanks for posting!
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Aug 17, 2009 03:31
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slowspeedracer posted:Still looking for a car... Head gaskets of that era on 2.5 NA motors are a common failure. Pretty easy to see if it's happened, just look in the radiator (if it's cool) or the coolant overflow. You should see only coolant, if there's oil then at least one of the headgaskets is blown.
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Aug 21, 2009 17:05
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You could but it would be significantly easier to remove the engine and put it on a stand.
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Aug 24, 2009 05:31
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Spider Crusoe posted:I bought an '07 Impreza 2.5i about a month ago, and it's the first car I've driven that had a manual transmission. When I'm staying a steady speed, such as 25 MPH in 3rd gear, I've noticed that the tachometer stays at 2K or a little above. All the cars I've driven in the past have stayed around 1.5K, but I'm not sure if that's because they're automatics, because the tach on those cars only went up to 7K, or if I'm driving poorly. Can someone explain this to me? The tachometer tells you how fast the engine is turning, and the speedometer tells you how fast the wheels are spinning. The engine speed will vary with your vehicle speed and gear choice. Different cars have different gear ratios to better make use of the powerband, which is the engine speed range that produces the most power.
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Aug 30, 2009 20:40
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Yeah I have WRX wheels of that type on my 95 impreza L wagon. I switched the front brakes for 2003 WRX parts and had a moment of hilarity when I tried to put the american racing 14" wheels back on that I had. Emergency call to my buddy who lived 45 minutes away and I had a set of "gently used" WRX wheels for the low price of $beer. Since then I've run hard on those wheels, in all sorts of rally like conditions (sideways in the snow, sideways in gravel, sideways on pavement), smacked a couple curbs, and run a mile or 2 with a tire totally aired down, they still keep air in the tires and hold the car off the ground.
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Sep 2, 2009 16:50
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It has more horror stories because more people use it.
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Sep 16, 2009 01:11
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The pinch weld jack point is intended for the factory jack, which has a vertical slot that it fits and supports the car on the flat horizontal areas.
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Sep 17, 2009 01:50
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Good post!
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Sep 21, 2009 21:11
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That is awesome! I wonder if it's a subaru motor that is powering the plane too?
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Sep 28, 2009 22:25
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Armyman25 posted:I was looking at buying a 2007 Legacy 4 dr with 77K on it. Any known issues that I should look for? Head gaskets or timing belts/chains? 77,000 miles is kind of amazing for a 2 year old car...
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Oct 8, 2009 01:52
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Armyman25 posted:Yeah, that was bothering me a bit. I looked at the Carfax report online, it was registered in November, 2006 so it's only about 25K per year, which isn't too bad. yeah that doesn't necessarily mean it's an abused car, but at that mileage it better be a hell of a price. What submodel/trim/options?
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Oct 8, 2009 17:02
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| # ¿ May 13, 2024 12:15 |
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Armyman25 posted:http://www.ramsey-urbandale.subaru.com/certified-inventory/2007-Subaru-Legacy+Sedan+AWD/dddc18007f00000101ca695498475bcc.htm Kelly Blue Book value for "Retail" in "Excellent" Condition is $13,250. "Private Party" value in "Excellent" Condition is $11,050, so if that's the car you want I'd try to knock down the price a little bit. It looks like legacies in that price range are scarce in your area, but if you are willing to travel a bit I'm sure you can find a good deal.
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Oct 8, 2009 17:56
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