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It's a pretty simple job. I was surprised how easy it was to remove the crank pulley, but I'm sure that has something to do with my car having 250,000 miles and it being off a couple times before. 1. get a copy of the factory service manual! Haynes/chilton SUCK in comparison. The little booklet of directions that was included with the timing kit (Gates brand) was better than my stupid chilton manual that supposedly covers EVERY model subaru from 1985-1996. 2. for a DOHC engine, a tool like this will probably be super handy to keep the cams from rotating. 3. if your timing kit doesn't include the tensioner/tensioner adjuster, buy one. that part is $130-150, a new engine is how much? I talked to a guy that runs a subaru performance shop, he said definitely replace it, don't try to compress it back (even though it says you can in the service manual). 4. if you can afford it, definitely go OEM for all parts. Check with your local dealer parts department, see if they have any discounts for clubs etc. Tell them you can get the stuff wholesale from your friend that works at [parts department in some other state] but you just don't want to wait, can they give you wholesale pricing? That worked for me to get $25 off the $150 tensioner adjuster from my local dealer.
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May 20, 2010 15:09
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| # ¿ May 12, 2024 17:49 |
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bull3964 posted:My biggest concern, as always, is snapping a bolt off which tends to ruin days. for the timing service the only fasteners you should have any problems with are the ones for the cover, the captive nuts on mine all broke out of the plastic rear cover.
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May 20, 2010 23:12
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bull3964 posted:Then how did you get the cover back on? "all" was a slight exaggeration, there are 3 or 4 of them left. the captive nut still kinda jams in the spot where it was supposed to stay so I guess the covers stay on ok. edit - you could also order new rear timing covers, and then try to remember to loosen and retorque the timing cover fasteners when you do oil changes etc. then you won't break out all the captive nuts next time. Also maybe this issue is less severe in states that have milder climates. ab0z fucked around with this message at 14:43 on May 21, 2010 |
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May 21, 2010 14:33
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jamal posted:Timing belt is pretty easy. I put a video up on you tube of me installing one here although I don't know if that link will work http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D1PunROR3VU Also, I just got back from the garage, I started up my impreza after doing timing service and other things, it didn't even blow up at all! Timing service, engine and wrx trans mounts, valve cover gaskets, water pump and thermostat, WRX seats, tie rods and boots. What a pain but I like the car again. ab0z fucked around with this message at 04:54 on May 22, 2010 |
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May 22, 2010 04:52
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Where can I find high res versions of previous year model subaru pictures? I want to put a nice walpaper on this PC I just built for my buddy, and he is getting an 06 impreza wagon, in that darker silver color. Ideally I would have that exact car, but a really nice professional picture of it.
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May 25, 2010 19:44
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No I'm looking for the original subaru press photos, I know there's a set of this exact car, but I can't find good high res versions of it.
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May 25, 2010 23:22
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Captain Crabsticks posted:
You should get the eco badge.
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Jun 2, 2010 14:15
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Has anyone seen a water pump fail ever? My buddy has 261k on his WRX, all under "harsh" driving conditions and with the most relaxed of maintenance schedules. He has not replaced the pump ever.
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Jun 9, 2010 21:06
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Yeah I did the same when I did my timing service, but the old one looked fine and of all the subaru people I know in person, I've never heard of one failing.
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Jun 10, 2010 06:06
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jamal posted:The waterpump on my first legacy failed at around 130-140k. It also took out the timing belt. While I was on a ski trip at lake tahoe. What year was that car?
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Jun 10, 2010 14:53
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The problem starts with the unwillingness of people to know anything about how a car works. Then when a shop tells them they need something, they have no idea if that's true, and any explanation of the problem just sounds like BS from a scammer. Some shops ARE intentionally dishonest, but the vast majority of them are not. What most problem shops are is just crappy. They're not trying to do a bad job, it just comes naturally. The huge combined number of intentionally dishonest and unintentionally crappy shops make it really hard for the good shops to gain the trust of customers.
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Jun 16, 2010 14:44
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subaru posted:CAUTION: As long as you have snap ring pliers and half a brain, this is the hardest part about rebuilding a CV. Also, people I know have used rebuilt assemblies from chain auto parts stores and ended up doing the job repeatedly due to low quality parts failing.
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Jun 17, 2010 18:03
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ZombiesAhead posted:I guess I could struggle through this the long way (which would be fun) but I just don't have the time now. You really think the remanufacture parts are garbage? not necessarily as a rule, but frequently yes. If it's just the boot that's bad, get a boot and some of the magical special grease from subaru. You'll save a bunch of money and learn something useful. The actual dis assembly of the axle isn't that hard, and you have to completely remove it whether you replace the boot or the whole thing.
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Jun 17, 2010 18:53
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ZombiesAhead posted:I wasn't sure how long it's been torn - probably only a month or two but I drive on some pretty gnarly, dirty roads. well gently caress. Unless you have a nice drill press setup and some good taps, probably get on car-part.com immediately and find a whole knuckle at a nearby yard. Sorry to hear of your misfortune.
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Jun 18, 2010 04:37
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| # ¿ May 12, 2024 17:49 |
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jamal posted:Drill it out from the ther side. If you're lucky it will spin out before you trash the threads or balljoint. Even if you do drill out the threads you can just put a bolt and nut through it. Oh crap I didn't think of that. That's a great idea! You can access both sides so it would work fine aside from looking a little ghetto.
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Jun 18, 2010 06:15
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