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I may be buying a 2004 Impreza wagon, 2.5 5spd, 190k km. Timing belt, water pump and head gaskets done at 150k (not sure if the updated gasket was used, doubtful). Anything I should look for? It's in great shape and is owned by a "car people" couple, no rust, good rubber and winters on spare wheels.
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May 6, 2012 02:07
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Just how noisy is the EJ25? A friend of mine is selling an impreza, 2004 2.5ts, but upon driving it I've found it has a tick that's audible from inside the car at idle, and it doesn't go away once it's hot Since it goes away I think that mostly rules out piston slap, so that leaves either valvetrain noise or a knock? It also has a sporadic transmission or front/center diff whine under acceleration. My friend has told me that all of this has happened since they got it (2010) and the PO mentioned the whine as being almost normal, but it seems loud to be normal. I've looked around online and mostly at NASIOC I'm getting everything from center diff bearings, to transmission on its last legs, needs a fluid a change, or that it's actually totally normal. Does this sound out of the realm of the ordinary?
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Oct 29, 2012 10:55
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Update: I took it to a dealer and got one of their lead techs to have a listen, he told me that the engine sounds great for 200k km and the ticking is probably minor piston slap, still not nearly as bad as some he's seen and he figures it'll last a long while yet. As for the drivetrain whine, there is a TSB regarding the rear bearing in the center diff. Apparently if the car spends time travelling downhill at highway speeds (Nova Scotia is hilly as gently caress, and so is British Columbia, where the car spent most of its life) the rear bearing can slowly cook due to oil starvation. Sounds like bullshit but the fix is to replace it with a beefier bearing and some shims, depending on wear and fitment. He figures it's probably a 5-6 hour job, so I'll be buying the car this week hopefully and dealing with that sometime in the near future. This thread talks about the problem and how he fixed it, I think it's the top right bearing in the lovely picture he uploaded - part number G33008.
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Oct 30, 2012 00:55
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I got this 2004 Impreza 2.5TS about a week ago, since then I have fixed an exhaust leak, had the car MVI'd and today I vacuumed all the dog hair left in it by the PO and washed it. Because I'm stupid and didn't take a picture of it outside in the daylight, have this dark cell phone picture of my car in my poorly lit parking garage! Click for bigger.  Next weekend's project: Headlight polishing, and maybe a transmission fluid change if I pick up some oil.
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Nov 13, 2012 01:27
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Sudo Echo posted:Meanwhile on my 174k mile EJ25 My 04 EJ25 at about 200,000km has some slap too, it doesn't sound quite as bad as yours but it also doesn't go away. I'm not sure what to think.
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Dec 18, 2012 01:33
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daslog posted:Does it burn lots of Oil? Bad gas mileage? It doesn't burn much oil, if any, and I probably get mid-low 20s for mileage.
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Dec 18, 2012 03:50
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Would using a heavier oil be a good idea to calm down piston slap? Band-aid, I know.
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Dec 19, 2012 04:45
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Seat Safety Switch posted:5w40 in my '97 sure made a difference to piston slap. Now it's just noticeable instead of terrifying. Alright, I'll change to 5w40 and see if it makes a difference, and I'll have a jug of STP on hand for next change if it doesn't help enough. Those LGT wheels look great, I like them better lighter on the white Legacy wagon. Dayum.
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Dec 20, 2012 05:38
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I picked up some Rotella 5w40 and a bottle of Lucas oil stabiliser, and if there's room in the shop tomorrow at lunch I'm going to change my oil and see if this poo poo will quiet my horrifyingly loud piston slap. I'd like for it to be as quiet at cold start as it currently is when hot, but we'll see. 
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Jan 10, 2013 04:52
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Trip report: 5w40 and Lucas goo made my piston slap almost disappear when hot, but made little difference when cold. I'm still happy because it's better than it was before 
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Jan 12, 2013 15:07
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Well in that case, I hope it lasts until spring because then I'll just ride my bike all the time until I replace them/engine swap.
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Jan 12, 2013 18:52
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I loving love when it snows now, because the province runs the plows and in typical government fashion they take forever to get moving. My 8-minute commute turned into almost half an hour today. Business parks are lots of fun after-hours edit: Not because of traffic, but because of wicked sick doriftu. stevobob fucked around with this message at 01:39 on Jan 17, 2013 |
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Jan 17, 2013 01:33
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If I can't get into first after declutching a couple of times, I hit reverse then it slides right in. This is probably anecdotal bullshit.
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Feb 19, 2013 00:10
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blk posted:
I also drive a Subaru and like Rolling Rock. 
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May 8, 2013 03:08
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2004 Impreza TS, 5spd. There has been a whirring/whining noise from somewhere below/behind my shifter for the past 25k km, always between 60-80kph, pitch varying with wheel speed (not engine rpm). It made the same sound for the ~30k km the PO put on it, and the entire time I've owned it. What could it be? edit: also hilariously/terrifyingly loud piston slap. It's loving loud, especially in -30ºC, to the point of being afraid to move the car for fear the pistons may escape.
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Oct 21, 2014 01:27
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I was wondering too, does the newest gen 2.0L still think it's a diesel, or is it quieter? edit: Never thought of the driveshaft or bearing. I just assumed it was probably something inside the transmission. Thanks for the ideas.
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Oct 21, 2014 02:07
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When I start my 04 Impreza, sometimes I have to jiggle the key to get power to the clock/wipers/other poo poo that gets power on Key On. As far as I know, you have to drill that bitch out to replace it. Am I right? Add it to the list, I guess. Can't really do anything on the car for another year, at least (unless I get a shop to do it).
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Nov 19, 2014 01:59
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I broke the stupid loving alternator tension bolt while trying to change the belt today, and can't order a new one until Monday. Presumably the dealer should stock them since according to the internet, the same part was used in Outbacks, Foresters and Imprezas for a solid 10 years at least - basically anything with the 2.5 SOHC. Stupid stupid stupid. 
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Dec 13, 2014 23:55
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daslog posted:Hardware store? Would have, but the tension bolt broke off in the tension nut which is a little block of metal with two bolt holes 90º offset each other, and it's seized in so I can't get it out. One of these:  The threaded hole is where I broke the bolt off, and the other hole is unthreaded; another bolt goes through it and a slotted bracket into the alternator. edit: Like so, #1 is the broken bolt, #2 is the "nut"/block in the other pic. 
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Dec 14, 2014 18:40
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I have the part numbers, and have submitted a request to parts at the local dealer. I'll hopefully find out Monday, and if they have it then I'll get a couple of the nut/block pieces because it's bound to happen again some day. The nut is 34436AA001, the bolt is 34435AA030.
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Dec 14, 2014 18:47
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Wow, I didn't even realise the picture's caption was wrong. I just grabbed the first one I could find on google. I changed the a/c belt too, and it has a similar lock bolt/tension bolt setup, but I took it back off in case I needed to move it (the untensioned alternator drops down and sits against the a/c belt). I have a solar charger in the windshield hooked up to the battery to top it off over the next couple of days just in case.
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Dec 14, 2014 19:30
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Welp, my 04 TS wouldn't start on a return trip today, crank but no fire. Poked around and I figure it's the fuel pump; I had RPM register on Torque on my phone, and I had spark. I pulled out the back seat and opened the access cover, and just out of curiousity I turned the key to on - and lo! whirring from the rear! Cranked and started no problem. That basically tells me that it was the pump, since I was banging around back there getting everything out I figure the vibration nudged the motor enough to let it spin. I have a new one on order to arrive tomorrow midday.
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Feb 9, 2015 23:43
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I replaced the fuel pump in my Impreza last night, took about 3 leisurely hours from starting to take the seats out until everything was back in. That was EASY.  After working on mostly domestics for a while and having to drop the tank, an access hatch under the rear seat makes the most incredible amount of sense.edit: tools used were a small socket set and a pair of slip joint pliers, and some Fluid Film to help coax the lines off. That was EASY. Easy. drat. stevobob fucked around with this message at 17:27 on Feb 11, 2015 |
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Feb 11, 2015 17:18
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I got four General Altimax Arctics yesterday and three of them were made in 2014, and one in 2011. The chain I got them from is out of stock province wide for the season on that tire. I'm a bit sour about it but what can you do. I'll be putting them on this afternoon, and also replacing the o-ring on the inlet of the power steering pump, since it makes the Chrysler Moan when it's started now.
stevobob fucked around with this message at 18:15 on Feb 21, 2015 |
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Feb 21, 2015 17:53
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My 04 2.5TS's power steering pump was sucking air and wailing on cold start so I replaced the inlet line o-ring. It doesn't wail on startup anymore but now it has had air trapped in it for a week and a half and stutters/whines like fluid is low whenever the wheel is turned. I figure it should have bled itself by now; on Monday to try and assist it I unfastened the reservoir and put it above the pump and turned the wheel a bunch to try and burp it but it didn't help. What gives? Fluid has never been low,, either before I changed the o-ring or now, I check fluids regularly. Is my pump dying because I waited too long to replace the o-ring?
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Mar 4, 2015 22:11
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Update on my power steering pump's continual wailing: the new, OEM, diagram-matched part number, replacement o-ring has substantially less material than the old one. Luckily I got two new ones with the expectation I would lose one, so I just put both on and now after being bled through normal driving the pump is quiet and normal. I know it's probably a Bad Thing to use two o-rings but gently caress it it works.
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Mar 28, 2015 15:58
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X-posting from the PYOR thread:quote:Driver's lower control arm broke. I found out that it was covered under recall WVX-34 which had never been completed (I got the car about 2.5 years ago, the recall was from 2011). I got it back from the dealer today, after they installed two new control arms+ball joints+aligned it. The driver's sway bar endlink broke while the tow truck dude was strapping it down, so I put a new one on in the driveway after I got back. I have new front struts+mounts on order, which will make 75% of the front end fressshhhh.
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Apr 21, 2015 02:19
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Anyone had their center diff bearings start going bad and cause a whine that increases in pitch with speed?
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May 24, 2015 19:57
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SomethingOrAnother posted:Specific speed range? Any recent repairs/changes? Intensity of sound getting higher as miles rack up? 60kph is where it starts, and it quiets again at around 80kph. It's been more or less the same for about 20k km. I only learned about the bearings potentially being the cause recently on NASIOC, I found this thread, specifically this guy's posts: http://goo.gl/JZns4R He documents his whole remove+replace and his bearings are pretty chewed up. I have access to an auto club shop with a press so I think I should be able to handle it? Maybe? edit: All four center diff bearing part numbers, also from NASIOC: http://goo.gl/Zv8Hch and a pic of them, click to embiggen  another edit: Should I order these through the dealer or online somewhere? stevobob fucked around with this message at 23:57 on May 24, 2015 |
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May 24, 2015 23:51
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That looks excellent. edit: Looks like a new Focus, but better!
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Sep 3, 2015 20:55
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I'm in the middle of a job with the intended result of having my center differential bearings replaced. I've posted before about having a winning/whirring noise from approximately beneath the console whose pitch is speed-dependant and is only audible between 60-85kph. Well, I've finally gathered my balls (and bearings) and am undertaking it. At the current state, midpipe is out, drive shaft is out and the rear transmission mount crossmember is out. This took me a couple of hours because everything is rusted to gently caress and I'm laying on the ground with the car on ramps. This morning I will take off the case extension and remove the diff and see about pressing off the old and on the new. I expect (and hope) that the bearings are chewed up and show some very definitive evidence that this was all worth it! I broke both spring bolts holding the midpipe to the cat pipe, any reason I can't just throw regular hardware on there until I get new ones?
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Sep 12, 2015 13:34
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Minor update: Car sits broken and unuseable because yours truly ordered the wrong loving bearings. Commence forced beer induction. I did notice that only one of the bearings (the smaller roller bearing at the front of the output shaft) had any visible wear on it; some pretty bad pitting which I will post a pic of at some point.
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Sep 12, 2015 22:37
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My car is better than it was before I started loving with it! The short version is that the annoying loud whining whose pitch was RPM-dependent and only audible between 60 and 85 kph was caused by lovely bearings in the center diff. I changed the bearings and now the whining noise is gone! The long version with pics will come eventually.
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Sep 19, 2015 19:55
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OK SO here are some pics and words elucidating my experience changing my 2004 Impreza 2.5ts's center differential bearings, including the reason I took two days off the job and drank a lot. Here's the total list of parts I bought for the job:code:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vDShiHP8GHA The CEL is not the subject of discussion! All of the removal/install procedures can be found in these posts at NASIOC by user llamsn, with a shitload of pics, which I used as a guide and I recommend you do too. I did this whole job on ramps in my driveway and I recommend you do not do this. I did not take pictures of the removal of everything like the driveshaft and poo poo because I was cursing too much to operate my camera but he did so here you go: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=32390784&postcount=53 http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=32390791&postcount=54 http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=32390795&postcount=55 http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=32390801&postcount=56 THE PROCEDURE Drain the transmission first. If you can't, who cares, it happens anyway later on. Exhaust midpipe: Two 14mm nut and bolt at the front, I was able to reuse the gasket. Two 12mm spring bolts at rear. Both spring bolts broke, of course, and the donut gasket crumbled. You will also need to disconnect both O2 sensors. I also removed the exhaust hanger plate on the side of the transmission case with two 12mm bolts. Driveshaft heat shield: Four 12mm bolts Driveshaft rear cover: Six 14mm bolts, this is the big heavy plate cover thing by the rear diff Driveshaft: Four 12mm nut at rear diff, two 14mm bolt holding up the steady bearing, front slides right out of the transmission when you get the rest off. I jacked one rear corner and spun the wheel to rotate the driveshaft, you with limited slip diffs may have to do raise both rears. Shifter rods: There are two of these, one you remove from the rear of the transmission case with three 12mm bolts. The second is a total whore and you will curse a lot. There is a 12mm bolt holding the rod onto the shifter u-joint, that bolt is in a couple of plastic bushings and was a bastard to remove on mine. You then need to punch out the roll pin (two, actually; a smaller one inside a larger one) and then the u-joint slides off the shaft, allowing you to remove the rear case extension cover. When you pull the driveshaft out of the transmission it will probably start peeing stinky old gear oil onto your face. Case extension cover: Nine (I think) 14mm (I think) bolts. This is the fun part, because I didn't drain my transmission; once you pull the bottom bolts out they will probably start leaking gear oil. Use something like narrow chisels, flat screwdrivers or something you can wedge in between the case extension and case, to break the silicone seal. Try not to mar the mating surface (I hosed it right up but it doesn't leak so whatever). Once you finally break the goddamn silicone seal, the rest of the oil will pour into your mouth and the case extension should come out with the drive gear, differential, and driven gear. At this point I had my roommate drive me over to the base auto hobby club so I could use their hydraulic press. As soon as I pressed the old bearing off the output shaft and compared it to the new one, I was so immediately certain that I had hosed up ordering that I walked away from the job for a couple of days. They were so obviously mismatched, and I totally had my confidence crushed because I done a ton of research about this and confirmed with many posts on many forums, and on Subaru's parts diagrams, that I had got the right bearings. I threw everything back in my bin and called my roommate to come pick me up. Two days later after more halfassed research I decided to actually use my loving head and got out my cheap caliper to measure how far off the bearings actually were. The replacement roller bearing #806322080 (the first one in my parts list, above) is different than the one on the car. This is shown below, with the original on the left, new bearing on the right.  Old outer race outer diameter first. Hmm...    Old inner race diameter first.    Ok so they are the same and I am a big idiot for not doing this sooner. No big deal I'll get my roommate to drive me back to the shop and DO THIS poo poo. Output shaft, with forward roller bearings next to it on the bench: old on top, new on bottom. The roller bearing next to the gear I had to cut off as I had no puller jaws or anything that could fit between it and the gear.  New bearing pressed on with the old one held up for comparison. Jesus.  This is what you see on the case extension after you remove the differential (slides right off the input shaft) and the output shaft (seated in the extension in its bearing race). This picture contains one of the four bearings; the smaller roller bearing, which is hidden beneath the gear in the picture.  Make sure to replace the bearing race in the case with your new one.  Remove the four allen bolts and you can slide the shaft right out.  The bottom end of the input shaft that was just removed in the previous pic.  Remove the snap ring, then press the bearing off. The four ears with the bolt holes and the bearing are all one piece:  On the differential side of the input shaft gear, there is a spacer washer. Mine was stuck to the gear with gear oil, but when I pressed off the bearing it fell off. I did not notice this until later.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HQGXDov7ZXc The last bearing to be replaced was on the differential itself, which you can see in the above video. I used a bearing puller to remove it and (VERY CAREFULLY AND SLOWLY) a vise to install it, but I don't have any pics because the shop was going to close and I was rushing. This shows the old output shaft forward roller bearing. This is the only bearing with visible wear on it, and apparently the cause of my whining problem. The pitting is deep and I can feel it easily with my finger, not even my fingernail.  Before reinstalling the case extension and shafts and poo poo, REPLACE THE OUTER BEARING RACE FOR THE OUTPUT SHAFT. It is in the rear of the transmission, still in the car. I used an angled pick to pull it out with barely any force at all. Clean up both mating surfaces with brake clean or something and apply some silicone, install the case extension loosely and snug up the bolts until some silicone squishes out the side. I let it sit for an hour, tightened all the bolts and dumped in some gear oil and it didn't leak, and let it sit 24 hours before driving it. No whine! No problem! I probably left poo poo out so ask questions if you need clarification. stevobob fucked around with this message at 01:03 on Sep 22, 2015 |
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Sep 21, 2015 22:19
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SilentW posted:gently caress. I think my new-to-me WRX that I just bought has the same problem. I think I'll be posting a video here later today I drove for almost 30,000km with it and all it did was get slightly louder. I have a roommate with a car who works at the same place as me so I figured I'd tackle it now. It was really a piece of cake, I can't guarantee a WRX would need the same part numbers for the bearings though. The hardest part was breaking rusty bits free.
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Sep 21, 2015 22:34
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SilentW posted:I'm sure it's not a fatal problem, but I definitely notice the sound, and it's already kind of irritating to me. Maybe it's just the turbo, I've never had a car with one before. That should be pretty easy to determine between: if you're rolling along at speed and hear the whine, and you downshift/upshift to a different RPM but the same wheelspeed and the whine is the same pitch, it's either in or after the transmission. The turbo would change pitch relative to engine RPM, not wheelspeed (I do not own a turbo car so I am not 100% sure on when the turbo spools, but this seems logical to me).
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Sep 22, 2015 01:42
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blk posted:
I seem to recall that L to F is exactly one quart.
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Sep 28, 2015 03:37
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Anyone tried this before? DIY smoke machine with 3psi regulated air and mineral oil smoke. http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/forum/general-chat/topic35820.html I have a "large leak" and don't want to pay a shop $100+ to do the same thing with fancier hoses and gauges. stevobob fucked around with this message at 17:21 on Oct 25, 2015 |
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Oct 25, 2015 17:16
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I still wonder if you can do this with an e-cigarette or a dollar store fog machine. Are you referring to the large ones beside the charcoal canister, connected to (presumably) the vent valve? edit: Also I don't see why not actually, using your lungs, the only limit would be how long you can do it until you pass out.
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Oct 26, 2015 01:32
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| # ¿ May 9, 2024 21:20 |
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blk posted:The beep on my remote unlock went away. I miss it. Followed the instructions in the manual to restore it but no dice. Everything else in the car seems to be working so I'm guessing it's not a fuse. Any ideas? Beeper is dicked. It's a little plastic rectangular piece next to your horn, mine is bad too.
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Oct 26, 2015 03:10
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