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So my son has decided to go to tech school to be a mechanic, and being a supportive dad and all that, I've decided to buy a used Subaru block for his 1998 Subaru Impreza RS. The idea is that he can rebuild this one as he figures poo poo out and swap it with the one in his car now. So here is my problem: 2.5 DOHC engines are hard to find. Anyone ever swap a 2.5 DOHC for a newer 2.5 SOHC? Bad idea?
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Jan 21, 2010 05:27
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jamal posted:the swap from phase 1 to 2 happened in 99. So the 98 RS has a phase 1 dohc motor, and the 99 has a phase 2 sohc motor. That's a good start for me, thanks. What if I wanted to add a turbo? 
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Jan 21, 2010 13:12
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I'm looking for some ideas. I have excellent connections (my spouse) into the regional Subaru dealerships. If I wanted to pick up a an 8 to 15 year old Subaru to fix up, what should I pick? Something like a 1998 RS?
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Mar 26, 2011 15:51
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c355n4 posted:If you want one in that bodystyle, I'd only get a '00 or '01. Mainly due to the engine. The '99 is nice but it was a weird year and the '98 was a DOHC motor. What's wrong with their DOHC?
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Mar 27, 2011 03:46
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dyne posted:The DOHC engine was the major offender for the headgasket problem Is that that only reason? It's pretty easy to fix...
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Mar 27, 2011 19:10
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Why is it so hard to find a manual transmission for a 98 RS?
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Apr 4, 2011 13:06
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Amandyke posted:I just find that baffling. When I bought my 2007 Dodge Caliber R/T AWD back in 2006 (shut up I know) I basically walked into the closest dealer said I want it in this color, with these options, and I want to order it. They said OK, how's $100 under invoice sound? My wife is the office manager for the local Subaru dealer. Due to what's happening in Japan, it's becoming very difficult to get inventory to sell. They are being resupplied with 60% of the new cars that they sell. (if they sell 100, they get 60 new car in) She's thinking it's only going to get worse until the end of the summer. daslog fucked around with this message at 18:47 on May 6, 2011 |
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May 6, 2011 18:43
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sanchez posted:I have read on NASIOC (yeah yeah) that dealers are unable to order any more 11 WRXes due to the earthquake and will simply stop selling them until the 2012 is available. I ran this by my wife. They are only able to order a Subaru made in America. (Outback, Legacy, and Tribeca) If a customer wants any other model, they have to do a dealer swap to get one, but no dealer will do swaps for the stuff made in Japan anymore. Edit: The Parts shortage, if it happens, won't be for a few months.
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May 7, 2011 12:16
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My 2001 Forester failed safety inspection because it's "pissing oil from the head gasket on to the exhaust." My son and I will attempt a head gasket job with the engine in the car. I'll take lots of pictures and will post them for all of you who wonder if you can do this on your own.
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May 20, 2011 02:28
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Well, the 01 Forester was dripping Oil from the head gaskets and generally running like crap, so it was time to bit the bullet. My son and I took the plunge and decided to do them in the garage. He's going to college to be a mechanic, and convinced me that he could take on the job. First need to get the land yacht out of the way.  The parts: Intake Gaskets, Valve Cover Gaskets, Exhaust Manifold Gaskets, Hose Clamps, Valve Cover Bolt Gaskets, Radiator Hose Clamps, Exhaust Bolts and springs, Head Gaskets, Timing Belt, Spark Plug gaskets things, Timing Belt Tensioner, O-ring that goes behind it, a thermostat. Total Cost: I have no idea, and will probably never know since my wife is the office manager at the local Subaru dealer and she deals with these things somehow. In the background is a weedwacker that died a smoking death on Saturday, (they don't like start fluid) Some old tires, and a dented fender that is now an experimenting board for my Cut and Buffing experiments. Also, some old tires that my son uses to bring home Subaru engines that he collects. Not pictured because they were forgotten on the first parts run, Antifreeze, spark plugs, and some 1 inch clamps.  Tools! Stuff we used: Bungie Cords (3), Coffee, Snap On deep sockets, and a fancy tool for getting the crank pully off that we borrowed. Stuff we forget on the first run, a fancy funnel for antifreeze, the breaker bar is around somewhere, a scotchbrite pad for the heads, and a whizz wheel to to clean off the intake and exhaust manifold gaskets.  You don't need this crank pulley tool, but it's pretty handy and makes it easier.  I'm not normally a Subaru guy as old Cadillacs are my thing. I thought this was a neat trick to prop the hood up higher. I'm sure 99 out of 100 people know this, but here it is: You can put the prop on the strut tower to move the hood out of your way.  Airbox removed. My son explained to me that the long penis looking thing at the end (not pictured) reduces the noise from the intake.  I had drained the oil before my son (pictured) got there. He wasn't happy with the mess I left on the cardboard.  Draining the coolant into a cheapo walmart storage container.  The spark plug seals were pretty bad, as you can see.  Radiator has to come out. Look at all that space!   My son assures me that this is how the pros do it at the dealer. 4 Bungie cords hold everything out of the way.  Looks like I'm not the only one who likes my Forester. Acorns and a mice nest.  If you don't have that fancy tool, just setup a breaker bar and give the engine a couple of quick clicks to losing the bolt. The engine spins the bolt loose. Make sure you cut off the fuel first though. We didn't have to do this since we had fancy dealer tools, but it's a good tip I thought I would pass along.  The old timing belt. SOHC is a lot easier! Just get some leverage on that that tensioner and stick in a nail or a grenade ping to hold it up.  Exhaust out.  Now this is where we take the nuts off the motor mounts. Then we jack up the engine Just high enough to stick a socket under one side. This sets the engine aa nice angle so we can remove the head bolts. If you jack up the engine too high you can pop the boots off the CV joints, but you just slip them back on if that happens.  See how it's higher on the right side? You can fit a torque wrench in no problem.  First head off.  Scotchbrite pad where the headgasket goes, Whizz wheel the intake and exhaust manifold gaskets.  Here is a picture of me doing something almost useful. Probably spark plugs.  Both head gaskets replaced, and the new timing belt in. We made sure all three marks are lined up, then we screwed it up, then we fixed it.  Then it's just put poo poo back together, add oil and coolant. We borrowed this funnel from one of the techs. You just overfill the coolant so its halfway up and let the engine run for 30 minutes to get the bubbles out. Once it's done, just stick the stopper in and take it out. It's pretty neat.   And that's the adventure. This was the first time my son or I had ever done anything involving taking off heads and putting them back on. He's just finished his first year at tech school, and he's already working at the dealership learning all kinds of stuff. Best of of the whole day was that moment when I realized that my son has surpassed my automotive skills, and that made be a very proud parent. Maybe I'll buy him an SA account or something...
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May 31, 2011 02:08
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Lowclock posted:Shoot you already had an impact gun sitting right there. That would have zipped that crank bolt right off without spinning the engine or anything. That always seems to be the safest and easiest way of removing those as long as you can get it on there somehow. Not enough space unfortunately, but yea that's the best way to do it if you pull the engine.
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May 31, 2011 02:25
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I used a strap wrench around the pulleys to get them off. The strap piece fits between the the two pulleys with a little effort. http://www.harborfreight.com/2-piece-rubber-strap-wrench-set-94119.html 
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Jun 7, 2011 11:09
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Rontalvos posted:So I pulled the accessory belts off my 2000 outback with the 2.5L and took it for a spin around the block, even with nothing running it still has the above-4k-only-under-load squeal that I'm now thinking is the timing belt? or a timing belt idler? Could be the Water pump or the Tensioner. Either way, after 20k miles since belt neither is going to be under warranty.
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Jun 12, 2011 12:31
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Wamsutta posted:How much of a concern is 93k miles on this car? You should just assume that any Subaru at 100,000 miles needs Head Gaskets and a timing belt. 
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Jun 17, 2011 15:59
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 Isn't this how most folks to it?
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Jun 17, 2011 19:51
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blargle posted:Is the new subaru synthetic oil garbage? I switched to Rotella T6 this weekend and the engine practically purrs now. Maybe the heavier weight smooths out some of the weird noises these engines make. The only motors that require the Subaru synthetic are the FB motors. (2011 Forester) The oil is 0W-20 full synthetic. Technically you void your warranty using any other oil if you have one of these engines. They also require a special filter with a bypass valve.
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Jun 20, 2011 03:39
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bull3964 posted:Incorrect. All 11+ turbos require 5w30 synthetic. I'll have to tell the Subaru tech. Edit: I just gave him some poo poo about his answer. He claims that he meant you have to use Subaru brand oil for the Foresters because you can't find the Subaru Forester oil anywhere else. At any rate, the oil filter is more important so you don't dry sump your engine or something. daslog fucked around with this message at 11:54 on Jun 20, 2011 |
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Jun 20, 2011 11:45
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Cat Terrist posted:There is nothing special about Subaru oil - it's just another brand with a dealer markup Must be something to do with "the idiot who brought her 2011 Forester in and it had a Valvoline sticker with Synth-Blend. With the wrong Filter."
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Jun 21, 2011 01:25
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I've been tossing around the idea of picking up an Impreazza and doing a 22B body kit. Anyone here ever tried this? What am I looking at for a budget for the Body kit, wheels and tires? I can source the rest though my wife (Subaru Dealer employee). It looks like a doable and fun project.
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Jul 28, 2011 19:49
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Yakattak posted:Very good idea, if they haven't been done, I imagine it would just be easier to walk away? I know that head gasket replacement is a tough job. I posted a lot of pictures when I did my head gaskets a few pages back in this thread. It's about 12 hours and 300 dollars in parts.
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Jul 29, 2011 17:00
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Just Another XY posted:So girlfriend backed the car into the garage and did this – File an insurance claim and get a new Fender. Is there any reason you can't bring it to a body shop?
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Aug 2, 2011 01:47
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RaoulDuke12 posted:'03 WRX is throwing a CEL code that seems to indicate cylinder 1 is misfiring. When were the spark plug wires last changed?
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Aug 5, 2011 04:18
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RaoulDuke12 posted:Never. They don't look too beat up though and they're all sparking without arcing. I tend to do these type of these part by part if I'm tight on funds.
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Aug 5, 2011 12:33
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Picked up a used Subaru High performance engine this weekend. Was great during the Hurricane.  
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Aug 29, 2011 18:00
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What do folks think of this? http://nh.craigslist.org/pts/2577923999.html
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Sep 2, 2011 22:37
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Flu Roo posted:Now we're getting somewhere. Here is a video that explains it http://youtu.be/K4JhruinbWc
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Sep 4, 2011 03:34
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I have a question: How are people get passed Emissions these days? Are there setups where the ODB2 computer stuff won't kick an check engine light when you have no Cats?
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Sep 9, 2011 02:44
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Blaise posted:If you're in an OBD2-only state (no sniffer) you'll pass with CEL suppression via Open Source or Cobb or whatever flash you use. I'm PA 'legal' with no cats... and soon I won't have TGV or any of that other crap either. I am! Thanks.
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Sep 12, 2011 23:19
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tronik posted:Would I be shooting myself a foot if I went for a 2011 STi rather than waiting for the 2012's to arrive on the lot? The dealers around here are pricing remaining 2011's way below invoice. Just think of it as buying a one year old used car with 100 miles on it, and pay the price accordingly.
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Oct 7, 2011 22:29
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draccio posted:Should these be OK for a 2011 WRX for Winter Tires? I live in Southern NH and it does get cold and we have a fair amount of snow. At what steady temps should I be using these at or on? I'm your neighbor. I've been on Southern NH since 86 and I've never bought snow tires in my life. If you are from here, you can drive in the snow just fine without them.
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Oct 11, 2011 01:38
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Milford. If you really want to track me down, google the local Subaru dealer, and you will find 20% of my household working there Good point on the stock tires, but I would think you could find something a little more "all season" that will last you a little longer. edit: Stoke Hall 1988. Was an awesome year.
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Oct 11, 2011 01:50
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draccio posted:Around, out running cops and such... Just go to Carson city tire in Amherst on 101. They will set you up with a reasonably priced set.
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Oct 11, 2011 02:05
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Rontalvos posted:I lived in central california where at 300 feet above sea level it gets down to 45 degrees in the winter. Now I live in Los Angeles. I don't need snow tires, I just wanted to know if people like the forest service recognize that a subaru has AWD and won't bitch about me not carrying chains when I drive to the ski resort a half dozen times a year. AWD doesn't help your braking.
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Oct 12, 2011 00:59
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Cat Terrist posted:Wrong. This is well known in rallying that AWD has a positive effect in resisting brake lock and it does transfer across to the road and narky conditions. You completely missed the point.
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Oct 12, 2011 12:24
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For my 99 Impreza RS project, I noticed that my starter only has one bolt on the top. There should be be a stud as well, but there is just a hole. Anyone know what size the stud should be? The Subaru parts diagrams don't call it out.
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Dec 10, 2011 18:01
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How much is this 2003 WRX worth? I am considering buying it for a swap into my 99 RS project.  
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Jan 6, 2012 23:54
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Seat Safety Switch posted:It's probably a rollover (note that the B-pillar bar did its job here). The broken ball joint/front suspension parts on the passenger side probably means that a curb was involved at some point. It is cold here this time of day, and it's on Craig's list as a part out car. I'm thinking abut just buying the whole thing. No idea on asking price or the front diff.
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Jan 7, 2012 01:08
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Isn't there a switch in the motor to turn it off if the car is upside down? I thought I read that somewhere. It's in the fuel filler pipe
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Jan 7, 2012 01:38
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Cat Terrist posted:OKay, first I would consider putting that back in the car IF it came of mine. But I would in absolutly NO WAY ever pick up second hand flywheel / clutch components. It is not worth the risk It seems to me that the only people who replace this stuff before it completely breaks are people who beat on their cars.
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Jan 8, 2012 14:32
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chrisgt posted:So my beloved GL is on it's deathbed. Because of loving maine road salt cancer You can fix this. It's just a bit of effort. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3439775&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=3#post396700891
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Jan 10, 2012 00:06
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