|
I totaled my '08 WRX in January (a series of unfortunate events) and now find myself in the market for another. I don't really want to buy one new again, so I am looking at used ones in similar condition to what I had, and I have some questions for AI. Considering this is a turbocharged engine, is there extra diligence I can/should do before buying one used? My old car had 85k miles on it, and I'm looking at some with 60-70k now because they are close in price to what I got from insurance. Should I be spending more money to get something with 30-40k miles instead? Does it matter if I'm buying used from a dealership, or something like CarMax instead of a private party?
|
#
¿
Mar 19, 2013 00:20
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 12, 2024 22:02 |
|
|
The 2010's and on are barely cheaper than a new one. Is the problem with the '09 because it was the first year with the new turbo? What changed in 2010?
|
|
#
¿
Mar 19, 2013 03:43
|
|
|
So if I don't give a poo poo about the widebody, is there any reason to avoid the '09 other than mileage? And if not, how many miles is too many?
|
|
#
¿
Mar 19, 2013 04:11
|
|
|
Then is there reason to worry with a high mileage 09?
|
|
#
¿
Mar 19, 2013 06:25
|
|
|
Maybe this is more of a "negotiating for a used car" question, but here it goes. Since my 2008 WRX was totaled (grumble) I've found a promising 2010 online. The ad claims it is the Premium edition, but it lacks the main features of that package (no front seat heaters, no audio controls on the wheel, no disc changer in the audio head unit, no sunroof) however it does have fog lights. I pointed this out politely to the owner via email, he sent me some Subaru link which only reinforced my claim. After a couple tame emails back and forth, he is still pretty insistent that it's a Premium package car. This of course is relevant, because if it's not a Premium, that chops about $1100 off the value of the car. I'm headed down to see the car and talk to the guy in person this afternoon. Does anyone have any suggestions for how to drive home the point? I suppose I can just stick firm to a price I think is fair based on what version I know the car to be. But it would be much simpler if we were negotiating with the same assumptions about the vehicle in mind.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 24, 2013 19:11
|
|
|
that link is helpful, thanks. Just got back from checking out the car, and everything looks good though there was one potential issue. The car has 32k miles and is on its third clutch. The first one apparently had to be replaced within 100 miles, which Subaru did for free. The second however was replaced at 21k. The guy had all his service records which showed among other things that Subaru picked up the labor cost on the second clutch job. That does imply they thought it wasn't just burnt out from this guy driving lovely. Should I be concerned about this car going through clutches? Maybe it's the dealer doing crappy work, in which case this new one might die early as well?
|
|
#
¿
Mar 24, 2013 23:42
|
|
|
Cat Terrist posted:Yes. I really doubt it's a mechanical fuckup and I have NEVER heard of a lowish km Subaru trashing clutches without some dickhead driving going on.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 25, 2013 01:00
|
|
|
The other red flag on this car that's gone through two clutches is that it's also on it's second set of tires, which look significantly worn. I'm bummed this one isn't gonna work out, as it's been tough to find one that meets my needs.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 26, 2013 00:59
|
|
|
il serpente cosmico posted:No more hatch Now there will be zero current cars in that niche.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 29, 2013 08:48
|
|
|
il serpente cosmico posted:Dumping the wagon/hatch seems like a bad idea. I haven't looked at the numbers but it does seem pretty popular around here. It's a great mix of performance and utility. Are there any other performance oriented AWD wagons for under $30K? No, there are not, which is why it would suck for the WRX hatch to disappear. I saw another article speculate that the hatch was going away as well, so I'm pessimistic.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 29, 2013 20:27
|
|
|
My 2010 WRX (~170k miles) spends most of it's time these days sitting in the driveway with the battery disconnected. I drive it maybe once a month on average for longer trips, or when I can't drive the Z cause I forgot to charge it. I keep up on oil changes but otherwise the Subaru is a bit neglected. For at least several months (maybe 500 miles) there has been a noticeable vibration coming from what I thought was the front driver side. I figured maybe the wheel bearing went out or something. Every time I'd drive it I'd think, "poo poo, that doesn't feel/sound good, I really need to take a look at that" but then it sits another month and I'd forget. This weekend I finally got around to jacking up the car and taking a look under there. This is what greeted me on the passenger side:  So my question for the thread is, what else might be going on that I should look out for here? Knowing that I drove probably 500+ miles with a torn/non-existent inner CV boot on one side, what else should I confirm isn't hosed before I clean it out, re-grease and replace the boot?
|
|
#
¿
Oct 16, 2023 20:33
|
|
|
When I was looking for cv boot replacement guides online, I found several which warned against using non-oem axel swaps because of quality concerns. Is this overblown? Can I just grab something off Rock Auto and slap it in there?
|
|
#
¿
Oct 17, 2023 04:49
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 12, 2024 22:02 |
|
|
bawfuls posted:When I was looking for cv boot replacement guides online, I found several which warned against using non-oem axel swaps because of quality concerns. Is this overblown? Can I just grab something off Rock Auto and slap it in there? Hopefully I can get the proper one installed more easily some time this week... bawfuls fucked around with this message at 22:05 on Nov 5, 2023 |
|
#
¿
Nov 5, 2023 20:44
|
|