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Went to change the oil for the second time ever on my new to me 99 Forester. Guess I wasn't really thinking, didn't take off the splash shield, and got the drat front diff plug. I put nice new synthetic gear oil in there when I first got the car, it was pretty much pristine. "Hrrrrmmmm, 21mm, that seems a bit big. No worries. Oh man, that oil is way too clean for 7000 miles... gently caress" - An idiot.
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Oct 13, 2015 19:44
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| # ¿ May 6, 2024 14:03 |
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Sudo Echo posted:Hey at least you figured it out before driving the car off with the oil coming out the dipstick tube and no gear oil, right? Yup, I took the guard off to grab the filter more easily and saw the actual oil pan. My brother kindly picked up some more gear oil for me on his way home from work. It's all buttoned up and making happy tractor/Subaru noises. Edit- It sure seems to be leaking a lot of oil around the front of the engine. The oil filter pedestal was absolutely caked in grime. It looks like a cam sender of some sort is the culprit on the drivers side, but the passenger is less obvious. Probably the cam seals, I would think, despite the magic marker on the radiator support claiming they were both done when the timing belt was about 50k ago. I guess it's about time for a timing belt job anyway, right? Commodore_64 fucked around with this message at 15:52 on Oct 14, 2015 |
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Oct 14, 2015 15:44
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I think I have a nice air bubble in my crossover tube. The temperature gauge is pegged at the bottom for like 5 minutes into my drive. I'm sure its not doing wonders for my fuel economy, as most of my trips are in the 5-7 mile range mutiple times a day with lots of cooldown time now rather than the 20 plus twice a day they used to be. Does this put me in any danger for fuel washdown or anything bad, or should I jump on this full force? Edit- 99 Forester Edit Deuce - Why would I get a random bubble in there? That seems... unlikely. Cripes. Commodore_64 fucked around with this message at 17:06 on Nov 18, 2015 |
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Nov 18, 2015 17:02
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Welp. WELP.  Screw you, FEBEST. You said these fit a 99 Forester. Guess what, your splines are too drat small. Augh. Anyway, my axles seemed about ready to fall out based on the amount of slop they had, the hideous shaking at speed, and the massive slurry of oozy, sandy fluid puking all over my engine bay and cat. Scathing reviews left, time to order some OEM parts.
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Feb 26, 2018 04:53
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Whoops! Turns out that OE inner balljoint kits OMIT the boots. New trunnions / gorgeous heat treated cups showed up, look gorgeous. For 400 smackers they should. I just missed that the tree oflines pointing to the contents of the kit in the fiche happened to skip one when the boot showed up.
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Mar 4, 2018 05:35
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| # ¿ May 6, 2024 14:03 |
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Hi Subaruists. I have a question I'd like a little help with. I daily my 99 Forester, it has a multitude of problems, but a new one just popped up. My transmission just started throwing a duty - c solenoid code on the blinky AT Temp light. Locks up hard when going into park / chirps and lurches like it is locked up in the parking lot. I've got all the parts specced out for the solenoid/valve assembly, seals, valve body plate, tailshaft seal, and tail housing gasket. What I've not got figured out are the transfer clutch steels and friction materials. I thought that I would like to replace them while I have it torn apart. I've only driven maybe 6 miles with this code and have temporarily placed the FWD fuse in place, so I doubt they are worn out excessively, but my time is limited and I want to do this once. As I understand it for my year this just pegs solenoid at full on to bleed fluid from the clutch piston and disengage it. The subaru oem parts engine my dealership uses shows my transmission taking 31523AA120 or 31523AA250, both of which are NLA. There is a supersession with pn 31523AA410, but of course the oldest trans it reports fitting is from 2002. Does anyone here know if those will work, I can call the dealership of course, but I was hoping someone here knew my pain and might be able to help.
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Apr 2, 2024 16:44
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