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Wrar
Sep 9, 2002


Soiled Meat
Is there any reason to buy an aftermarket up-pipe instead of just gutting the one I have?

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Wrar
Sep 9, 2002


Soiled Meat

toplitzin posted:

All the parts are ordered. Exeddy Clutch, mechanical boost gauge and pod, and piping too. Scheduled for Tuesday afternoon, clutch/exhaust replacement and stage two dyno tune for about $1500 parts and labor. :w00t:
Let me know how it goes, I might drive up and give my car some mod love.

Wrar
Sep 9, 2002


Soiled Meat

toplitzin posted:

Baseline dyno, then the wagon goes stage two today/tomorrow. I'm so excited!

You guys don't want to see the dyno slips before and after do you?
Very much so, since I don't trust anyone in the Miami area to do anything right.

Wrar
Sep 9, 2002


Soiled Meat

Blaise posted:

Installed my AEM UEGO wideband tonight in my '02 WRX.

Good news: I'm definitely not running lean, even near redline my A/F is showing steady ~10.5:1. Time to lean it out!! :dance:

Bad news: Managed to kink my boost gauge line while installing the 2nd gauge in the cluster pod. Gotta take it back apart! :argh:

What A/F Do you tune to? 11.5-12:1, right?
That's what I've been reading. I just got my uppipe, LC-2 and AEM intake. I'm waiting on the downpipe so I can install my wideband and all the associated naughty bits. I also got an Openport 2.0.

Wrar
Sep 9, 2002


Soiled Meat
I can't get the damned intercooler back onto the turbo. Any tips?

Wrar
Sep 9, 2002


Soiled Meat
So I had the car pretty much back together after doing my up/downpipes and intake (AEM), but as I posted, I couldn't get the intercooler back on. Well, I woke up and figured out a trick.

Have a friend take a length of wire and loop it around the end that goes to the turbo, and stand in front of the car. You push the intercooler and have them pull up and out on the wire. The hose of damnation should finally get onto the turbo, and now you can match up to the throttle body, or whatever it is.

Also, flashed the ECU to an opensource 91 octane map for most of my mods, barring intake. I have 93 since I'm in South Florida. No knock so far, but I need to wire in the wideband. Too tired to do it, too much other crap to take care of at the moment. Still, victory!

Wrar fucked around with this message at 19:59 on Mar 6, 2011

Wrar
Sep 9, 2002


Soiled Meat
Do not turbo a 2.5 RS motor, just buy a WRX or STI engine and put it in.

Wrar
Sep 9, 2002


Soiled Meat

jamal posted:

We were at the track this weekend. Our car has some new stuff.















The car looks badass. Did it run well?

Wrar
Sep 9, 2002


Soiled Meat
I modded mine simply because I found the turbo response lacking. With the new tubing bits, it's like a different car. I actually have some low end power, which makes the car much more driveable. If I had the 2.5T instead of the 2.0 I might not have bothered with anything more than a reflash.

Wrar
Sep 9, 2002


Soiled Meat

Cat Terrist posted:

I actually found the lack of response to be in fact an issue with the 2.5. Unless you kept the revs up on two slow corners, there just was nothing

The big reason why I aint modding is that when I really DO get the most out of it, I'll truly know what is lacking (rather than reading spew on NASOIC) and will instead of getting 1:12 with mods I'll go 1:09 as the mods I do will go further AS WELL as I'll be not starting from 1:14 but 1:12 - If I make myself a better driver by two seconds, that frankly that is the best modification of all AND it gets the most out of the car mods I'll do in the future.

Plus there is a factor of modding to overcome driving deficenices as alluded to. Who's the better driver, the person cutting 1:14 consistent laps in the bog stocker, or the person doing 1:12's with 100 more hp, suspension mods, bigger brakes, stickier tyres etc? The person with the quicker car doesnt have to drive as well, do they, so they never learn to wring every single drop of performance and never really understand how much they actually have in resernve. When do you learn to hold it flat if you have hp to cover up a liftoff?
I understand your point fully, but from a daily driver standpoint the 2.5T and 2.0T is night and day in terms of low-end power. It's just not close, and it's a pain in the rear end sometimes. I drive my car almost every day. I'm really glad I did the mods, if only so my turbo didn't feed on the up-pipe precat. I figured if I was going to take off all that piping I may as well do a downpipe too.

Frankly I don't give a gently caress about track time right now or getting the most from me as a driver since I have no time or money to spend on track time.

Wrar
Sep 9, 2002


Soiled Meat
Yeah gently caress that I'll come up and we'll make a weekend of it.

Wrar
Sep 9, 2002


Soiled Meat
A regular Impreza/Legacy does just fine in Sand/Dirt. As for your question, I have no idea. However, in either case I do recommend a manual transmission as your generally get Subaru's 2nd best AWD system (behind the STI).

Wrar
Sep 9, 2002


Soiled Meat
Why would you do that?

Also the stock struts on my car are about done (95k miles). Any suggestions?

Wrar
Sep 9, 2002


Soiled Meat
Dyne, I meant for the previous owner. Welding the DP to the rest of the exhaust is just weird.

Cat Terrist posted:

Swap for 02 STI suspension

(It's what the 06 WRX in reality has. Shhhh, dont tell anyone :) )
Yes, but I have a wagon and the different rear track complicates things. Also, no 02 STI in the States, we didn't get the STi until 04. Unless you know a way around these issues...

Wrar
Sep 9, 2002


Soiled Meat

darkcaps posted:

Sorry I'm nub to this.

Pro tune or COBB access port tune? Is it safe just to use the AP without a pro tune?
You can get a OpenPort 2.0 for $200 and flash it yourself to a free map and then tweak. You'll also need a wideband O2 sensor, though.

Wrar
Sep 9, 2002


Soiled Meat

dyne posted:

The GC8 style is still the best looking :colbert:
Yup. They really got it right the first time.

Wrar
Sep 9, 2002


Soiled Meat
I've got a 2096 CEL code. It's related to the front O2 sensor. I have nearly 100k miles on the car. Should I replace the sensor? I've also heard about cleaning the MAF might help.

Any ideas/tips?

Wrar
Sep 9, 2002


Soiled Meat
Any ideas why my car might be throwing that 2096 lean bank 1 CEL? 05 WRX, ~100k miles.

I guess I should replace the oxygen sensor, but I'd like some input before I run out and spend the money.

Wrar
Sep 9, 2002


Soiled Meat
The GR-2s are what the car has on stock. You can also get them from Rockauto.

Wrar
Sep 9, 2002


Soiled Meat
Get a Tactrix and do some real logging?

Wrar
Sep 9, 2002


Soiled Meat
I've suddenly under less financial burden!

My KYB GR-2s have shipped and will be here next week. The car desperately needs it. After I get them installed, I will do a track day.

Wrar
Sep 9, 2002


Soiled Meat
Ugh, I'm thinking about getting a Legacy GT instead of my 9-2x Aero and saving $70 a month on insurance.

Part of me wants to do it, but my car has been incredibly reliable. Only time it's left me stranded was because someone hit it or because I did a dumb thing and left the lights on.

Cat, don't you already have an STi for racing?

Wrar
Sep 9, 2002


Soiled Meat
I can only afford an 05, whats wrong with them?

Wrar
Sep 9, 2002


Soiled Meat
It's in the same place, I had to remove it to get the stock up-pipe out.

You'll be ok with the sensor for a few days. It shouldn't take more than 30 minutes.

quote:

What year WRX's get the blues? 06-07?
06-07 for sure. You can get 4 injectors from RockAuto for $250.

Wrar
Sep 9, 2002


Soiled Meat

THE BLACK NINJA posted:

So this article seems to show that an AEM intake can add power and smooth the output curve without costly tuning.

http://www.importtuner.com/powerpages/impp_1102_2011_subaru_impreza_wrx_sti/index.html

Should I put any faith in this article? Is Subaru going to be pissed about an intake?
The AEM intake and the AQ Motorsports intakes are the only ones worth putting on a Subaru that I know of. I have the AEM on mine with an off the shelf opensource tune, my AFR is very safe.

Wrar
Sep 9, 2002


Soiled Meat
Haha yeah, I hardly got any of my information at all on what to do from NASIOC, I actually talked to some of the better regarded tuners and then did a bunch of verification on my own. Jamal convinced me that the AEM CAI was a good idea (I verified it with logs), I'd heard too many issues with intakes on WRXes, but I didn't understand why. A lot of the rest of it was logic.

DSM guys are the epitome of "I have no money but will find a way to go faster anyway." They're pretty awesome like that.

I still need to get my Openport replaced and my right strut taken apart. I couldn't defeat the drat thing with hand tools.

Wrar
Sep 9, 2002


Soiled Meat
Despite Cat Terrist being an rear end and sort of having a point, the generally accepted notions are this:

Stage 1: tune

Stage 2: downpipe, better air filter, tune

After that it's all nonsense.

Wrar
Sep 9, 2002


Soiled Meat
Did a track day :D

The car chewed the rear rotors into oblivion, and I can only assume it would be a good idea to replace the fronts, since they are also original as well.

I have to drive the car mostly on the street, so I need a compromise pad and rotor. I don't care at all about noise. Any recommendations?

Wrar
Sep 9, 2002


Soiled Meat

jamal posted:

For actual track pads you have to spend money- CLs, PF01s, DTC60, DS3000 etc are all about $400 a set.
I am too poor for this poo poo :(

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d2X2LXqWQTw

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4a2eRLQX9vk

I am very rusty. It was just good to be on the track again.

Wrar fucked around with this message at 02:37 on Jul 10, 2011

Wrar
Sep 9, 2002


Soiled Meat
I just spent 2 hours researching brake fluid. I excluded Castrol SRF due to cost. I mean, it's awesome and all, but I'm not spending ~$80 on brake fluid. It's simply not in the budget. However, I did discover US Brake Ultra HTX. It looks to be 80% of the performance for 25% of the cost.

I am that sort of guy that is very happy with that sort of trade off. I bought NAPA blanks and pads, but I will get a set of track pads. Probably not the super-awesome ones because I flat out can't afford it, but something decent. I would have to track the car a lot for it to make sense to use something other than regular blanks.

Wrar
Sep 9, 2002


Soiled Meat
SafeRacer has the Ultra for $11/.5L. You're in California (dry, mostly) and I'm in South Florida, which is incredibly humid year around. I'd be more inclined to do it every 6 months/bleed before a track day due to laziness. Super Blue/TYP200 would probably do the trick though. With shipping the Ultra is $5 more from SafeRacer, heh.

Wrar fucked around with this message at 23:40 on Jul 10, 2011

Wrar
Sep 9, 2002


Soiled Meat
Buy an Openport for much less money and get the whatever is appropriate tune for free and tweak from there. http://www.osecuroms.org/

Wrar
Sep 9, 2002


Soiled Meat

Cat Terrist posted:

Swap you the LSD for the prices you lot pay.
Fair point.

Wrar
Sep 9, 2002


Soiled Meat

Seat Safety Switch posted:

I wonder if you'd have to reprogram the VDC for something like that.
My guess might be less than you think. It's based off ABS sensor readings mostly right?

Wrar
Sep 9, 2002


Soiled Meat
My WRX hasn't needed anything other than regular maintenance and premium gasoline. You really do need premium. The most important things to look for are modifications by the previous owner and general signs of abuse and neglect. You'll want to change the oil more often and run synthetic since the turbo generates so much heat. A stock 2 liter WRX gets about 20 in the city and 26-29 (depending on speed and other conditions) on the highway.

Insurance on a WRX is expensive! I'd save almost $1000 a year if I got a Legacy GT instead.

I get 20-22 mixed driving, but my current tune throws entirely too much boost in low throttle conditions.

The 06 is the best WRX. It has aluminum rear control arms, the 2.5 turbo, and other little things that make it awesome. The 02-05 have the 2 liter, which is a good motor, but can be annoying to drive due to the lack of low-end torque. This can be fixed with $600 (more if you need to stay catted) in mods and a reflash. Any car with more than 60k miles will need new struts.

I'm sure others will chime in with some other details I've forgotten, but that's the general gist of it.

Wrar
Sep 9, 2002


Soiled Meat

Bob Log posted:

Search my posts for my rant about trying to get my 2011 WRX fixed by a dealer.

The Dealer is not required to honor warranty work on your car for any reason per their discretion and according to SOA they have no power to make them do any warranty work on your car as long as they deem it not an immediate safety hazard.

Electrical gremlins, ground faults and a headlight/blinker that doesn't work. TOTALLY SAFE CAUSE IT'S PASSENGER SIDE. :downs:

I will never buy another new subaru after this as long as I live.
Sorry you have a lovely dealer, but headlight/blinkers are required to work correctly by law. I would have raked those bastards over the coals.

Wrar
Sep 9, 2002


Soiled Meat
Are you talking a full STI swap or just the 2.5 turbo? Pretty much everything (meaning stuff that isn't the motor/directly related bits) is the same except for the front brakes and the fuel pump, I think.

While your at it, get the STI steering rack. It's fantastic.

Wrar
Sep 9, 2002


Soiled Meat

Terminus Est posted:

I need some wheels for my new to me 08 LGT limited. The retarded previous owner put some horrific chrome rimzzzzz on it that need to go. I can get stock wheels from the dealer at cost, don't know how much that is going to actually cost though. Anyone got some recommendations?
Buy a used set from a Subaru enthusiast site for a song.

Wrar
Sep 9, 2002


Soiled Meat
Actually this is loving awesome because the current Impreza's wheel base is too long for dirt.

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Wrar
Sep 9, 2002


Soiled Meat
I had that happen and I thought I had blown the turbo.

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