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Aforementioned turbo Diamond Gray Metallic with 6-speed, checking in. Nothing but AP with dyno-tune (and a tiny trunk lip and chin spoiler) at the moment. Exhaust or new wheels/tires is up next, haven't decided which. Winter shoes are on in this pic. 
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Oct 4, 2008 16:40
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| # ¿ Apr 30, 2024 14:30 |
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That's likely what I'll do, as the sound of my STi is now about the only thing I miss, after the tune. Where'd you get yours, and how much did they run you? Also, install them yourself?
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Oct 4, 2008 16:55
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TurboLuvah posted:I just bought the most stock WRX ever. It's an 2002 Bugeye Wagon, silver, 5MT, bone stock, 65,000 original miles. The guy I'm buying it off of is the 56 year old original owner with all records and maint history Lloyd: Welcome back, Mr. Torrence. It's good to see you. Jack: It's good to be back, Lloyd!
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Oct 7, 2008 00:48
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littlehulkster posted:Exactly what does my OBS need to handle better? I've already planned for springs, new struts, strut towers and a rear sway bar, is there anything else I'd need? My understanding is that 17" wheels are your best weight/performance trade off. 18" wheels usually weigh more, though they would have less tire roll, and 16" wheels weigh less, but have more sidewall roll.
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Nov 6, 2008 00:53
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littlehulkster posted:I already have some stock 03 WRX wheels on it, which I managed to pick up for free. I'll look at some new ones though if I don't like how it handles with the suspension bits. I'm trying to keep this as low budget as possible because an OBS really isn't worth putting much into. I was thinking of salvaging the swaybar from a WRX or 2.5RS. Generally speaking, better tires is one of the first things you can do to increase handling.
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Nov 7, 2008 01:33
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LordOfThePants posted:Anyone have an 09 Forester XT? I'm seriously considering one and would like to hear some opinions. Motor Trend liked it apparently and didn't mind the four-speed transmission. I haven't driven it, so I can't speak to how the transmission feels, per se, but riding in it is plenty fine. loving deals. Stupid STi's. I love my Legacy dammit, stop making me question my faith!
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Nov 27, 2008 16:05
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CharlesM posted:The Forester (one 'R') is a different car than the Outback. The Forester is Impreza based and smaller. The Outback is based on a Legacy and larger. The size difference is probably not as great with the '09 Forester. I don't really know about the different trim levels. The rest out what you said is correct there though, you're looking at two different cars there. The Forester is a smallish SUV, and the Outback is a wagon with a lot of ground height. The Outback is a little more expensive because, for the most part, the interior is 'nicer'. The Outback has the gauges, stereo and HVAC controls from the Legacy, and the Forester shares with the Impreza. Ultimately this means you have to really work to upgrade the stereo in the Legacy/Outback, as it's all a shared unit with the HVAC, and thusly costs a small fortune to replace. My fiancée just picks up a 5sp '08 Outback wagon on Friday, and she is thrilled with it. Edit: 
Fantastipotamus fucked around with this message at 15:36 on Nov 30, 2008 |
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Nov 30, 2008 15:07
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Mr. Powers posted:No go on the STi deal. The reason my friend was able to get such a good price was because they lowballed the gently caress out of him on the trade to make up for it. They started $3k higher than my upper limit and I got them down to $2k higher before I just told them that it sounded like I wanted a much better deal than they could give right now. Also, I would have had to buy new wheels and tires for winter. It was a great car, though. Got to test drive it. The shifter can't even be considered notchy, there are no notches, it's just either in gear or not in gear. The SI drive in I mode is pretty wierd, it feels like it just cuts the car's power in half, but I think all it does is adjust how your throttle input maps to throttle output, or it is at least a big factor. The brakes are also insane. When we were picking up the new Outback, took a quick look at the pair of STi's they have locally and uhh.. yeah, $30k sticker was not to be seen anywhere. In fact, the two they had were closer to $40k than they were to even 35k. She's got condensation in the lenses of her OB though already, so I think if it's still there in the spring, we'll be pulling her lights and baking them to remove the condensation, then sealing around the edges. The dealership gave us the "they're an open headlight and theres nothing we can do yadda yadda", so I'll resign myself to getting it out later.
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Dec 2, 2008 00:20
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Mr. Powers posted:I drove it in I and S. I was just commenting on how weird I(drive) felt. I didn't really get to stretch it's legs as it only had 20 miles on it, and I also wanted to keep a good relationship with the guy, since if the STi deal fell through (and it did) he was still the one selling me my 09. I've baked mine a few times, once to black them out, and then once to *ahem* remove some condensation and reseal.. So yeah, if you need help, I'm somewhat familiar. I just posted about it on Nasioc, too. Still have my phone #? I think the key to not stripping chrome off is to let the lights cool completely before taping them. I think a lot of people are in a hurry, and don't let them cool completely before starting taping them up.
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Dec 2, 2008 02:13
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It's amazing to me the number of people that I know around here who drive Subarus who don't know that you can't just tow it by lifting the front wheels. I was talking with a friend of mine at work with an early 2000's Outback that up and died on her the other day, and I'm almost positive that they towed it via lifting the front wheels.  If that hosed up her diffs, would the car even be driveable? They wouldn't have towed it more than a mile or so (it was from our work to the closest shop). Would the damage be minimal due to the light distance?jamal posted:A co-worker used to work on the ESX drag cars. They ran bone stock used 4eats with a high stall torque converter. At ~950hp they'd go through two or so per season. If I've been tuned already, would I need to be retuned if I bought an exhaust? The tune I have is pretty aggressive (thank god for SI-drive, never thought I'd say that), and I just wouldn't want it screwing up anything by running the same tune.
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Dec 13, 2008 16:01
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LordOfThePants posted:Anyone on this? I'm thinking about calling the guy to see it tomorrow at lunch and I don't want to waste my time if the automatic in the WRX is a ticking time bomb or something.
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Dec 15, 2008 23:51
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Did you get those online somewhere? I'll need to replace my winters next year, I think, and those sound like they offer decent grip at a good price. Also provided they're offered in 17" sizes.
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Jan 1, 2009 20:27
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TurboLuvah posted:I got them off of TireRack, but after looking again it looks like they only have 235/45/17s and they're like $105 a pop.
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Jan 2, 2009 02:26
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It's the STi 6-speed, so it'll run lower RPM at highways too. I'm just below 3k rpm at 80mph, and my fiancee's Outback w/ the 5-speed is at 3500rpm at like 72 or so. Also, the nav system, and 18" wheels are some of the other additions the Spec B has. Oh, and a moonroof, and the two-tone interior with the leather bits.
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Jan 3, 2009 02:03
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nm posted:OBs have a different final drive than the LGT
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Jan 3, 2009 15:59
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I would say that you want to be sure you're okay with the stereo in the 05/06 Legacy, as it's not really upgradable (there are options, but there few/far between and expensive). If you've got an ipod/other mp3 player and you're okay listening to it through an FM transmitter, then you're fine. If not, the '07's came with an Aux-in, which is much better quality, and an mp3 CD changer. The stereo in the 05/06 was the reason I didn't buy one instead of my STi back in 2004.
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Jan 7, 2009 23:29
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nm posted:True, though there is a cheaper aux-in option in the "jazzy" aux-in mod for the 05-06 radio. However, I do wish i had one. Also, I'm pretty sure the 07+ stereos are a direct fit into the 05-06 ones? So, in theory, if you were to find one in a junkyard with an intact stereo/hvac system, it'd be a plug-n-play, though the actual Aux jack itself may require some effort. And I'll agree with the 'something right' about the Legacy, I've been in a bunch of other Subarus (and others, obviously), but my car just fits like a glove. <3
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Jan 8, 2009 02:15
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When I had my STi, I had a double-DIN setup, got a single-DIN stereo with the cubby underneath and drilled a tiny hole in the back so the aux cord fed through. It wasn't show quality, but the cords were hidden, and my iPod had a place where it didn't slide around.
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Jan 9, 2009 02:57
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Anyone else with an '07+ and the Subaru "traction control" feel like it's hinderance? When you're going at slow speeds, and you turn, you tend to understeer, so you gas it to bring the back end around and pull the front in line.. Well the car then realizes your tires are spinning and puts the brakes back on for you  effectively helping you continue to understeer. Oops.Previously, i'd been ambivalent about it, but tonight in this storm I really found it obnoxious. Thankfully I'm just a buttons-click away from turning it off.
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Jan 28, 2009 23:48
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I thought some states have (had?) laws about pumping your own gas. Jersey, perhaps? That being said, if you watched the idiot start filling it with regular, you get out and shut off the pump, don't just sit there and take it, and then deal with 13 gallons of regular. I'm quite glad we have very few full serve stations here in NH.
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Mar 6, 2009 23:46
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Mr. Powers posted:The spool in the '09 is pretty jarring, and you can see it on that chart. The tune didn't really do much to smooth out the wall of torque you hit from 2500-3000. That is what I was hoping to smooth out. That range is right where most driving is (2000-3000) and being right on the slope of that curve makes driving interesting when it comes to passing. Short of a new turbo or slowing down the spool and reducing torque from 3000-4000, I really doubt there's anything that can be done to smooth it. The wall of torque will be even worse when (if) you get a tune. After my LGT was tuned, it made the S# mode almost undrivable in stop and go traffic. The throttle is super-aggressive and will enter "make you look like a clutch nub" mode with no provocation.
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Mar 12, 2009 00:28
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This was my mpg on a recent trip up to Sugarloaf mountain in Maine in my Spec B. This included some driving around the mountain, lots of highway, about an hour in stop and go, and mostly backroads on the way home. I was very impressed. It probably would have been around 30 if it weren't for that gridlock.  Also, after verifying it against my own math (miles per tank/fillup gallons), I found this MPG meter in my Legacy to be quite accurate.
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Mar 15, 2009 01:42
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Palicgofueniczekt posted:Why do I only get 16.5~18.8mpg (7~8km/l)? I have had my car tuned though, so it could have something to do with that, considering how much jamal smoothed out that dyno earlier.
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Mar 15, 2009 15:42
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dayman posted:Just do the accelerator wood block mod. Very cheap and proven to increase gas mileage, especially on turbo models. Oh, and my 28mpg wasn't in 'I' either, it was in regular 'S' which is what I use most of the time. *shrug*
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Mar 15, 2009 21:24
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dayman posted:There's no real genius to it. What's probably happening is you have more power available because the car isn't pulling timing which kills both power and fuel economy. The increased power means you don't have to depress the accelerator as much or for as long to get the desired acceleration. It also depends on how conservative your tune was. If he tuned it to 12.5: 1 for boost, then your mileage probably isn't going to take much of a hit under boost. This is pretty likely if he's tuning stock. I specifically requested a conservative tune, because when i start adding power on my own, I'll have more of a buffer to play with. My AFR's are around 11-11.5:1.  Gearing will definitely be a factor, as I've got the STi 6-speed so 75-78 mph is around 2800 rpm.
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Mar 15, 2009 22:25
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jamal posted:hey that plot sure looks a lot like the ones I've been posting... 
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Mar 16, 2009 01:01
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TurboLuvah posted:To be honest I kinda really like the black side skirts. I have strange tastes when it comes to cars, I also like the stock bugeye wheels as well, better than most aftermarket wheels. 
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Mar 21, 2009 14:50
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Decided to get some taillight tint a few weeks ago, and after a runaround actually getting them to deliver it (took over a month), and battling rain and a case of the swine cold, I spent the 45 minutes to put them on today. Before and after; I'm pretty pleased with the results. 
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May 8, 2009 23:21
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corsa posted:I was bored and on youtube watching videos of Forester XTs when I happened to find this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kiNEI5Cv5n8 This one was at the dealership where I bought my Legacy and STi.
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May 16, 2009 14:35
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My LGT appears to reset the stereo/seatbelt chime on some cold starts. I'm thinking it must be losing connection with the battery briefly (it always starts) but I can tell because the CD player returns to disc 1 track 1, and my 'disable seatbelt chime' thing resets itself to 'obnoxious'. I've checked the battery terminals, and they're fastened securely. Does this sound like a wiring issue? The only slight rewiring I'd done was to integrate my sub behind the stereo via a wiring harness. While I could see this causing the stereo to reset, this seems like a bigger issue since it seems like a full return to zero for most customizable options. I had heard the stock batteries in Subies were a little on the weak side, and mines about 3 years old or so now, so I was considering getting a new one. Do you guys think that might help? It doesn't seem like it's a big issue, just more of an annoyance. edit: alright, thoughts on batteries? Diehard North Gold - $105 (w/ exchange) - 640 cold cranking amps (cca) from sears Autocraft Gold - $94 w/ exchange - 640 CCA from Advanced Auto parts Duralast Gold - $93 w/ exchange - 640 CCA from Autozone Traveller Advantage - $65 w/ exchange - 630 CCA from Tractor Supply Traveller Advantage - $80 w/ exchange - 850 CCA from Tractor supply The latter two, I'm not sure on the physical sizes of them, the other three, I put in my car so they're the right physical dimensions. Am I going to "get what I pay for" when it comes to battery quality? The only reason I'm considering the ones from TSC is that I bought my motorcycle battery from there over this summer, and I cranked on the thing forever at the end of the season, when I was having trouble with it, and it didn't give the slightest indication it was getting tired. Fantastipotamus fucked around with this message at 16:47 on Dec 20, 2009 |
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Dec 20, 2009 16:18
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LordOfThePants posted:I have a question though - is it normal for the car to crank more before starting the first time after you've had the battery disconnected?
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Jan 3, 2010 00:03
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I'm not sure if newer cars are the same way, but in my old car, the wheel was just a splined shaft, so you get a steering wheel puller tool, straighten the wheels, pop the steering wheel, center it, and reinstall. My old car didn't have an airbag though, so I'm not sure if that makes a difference in newer cars (it was an '84).
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Feb 4, 2010 00:58
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Here's the grill I finished making. Total cost was $130 or so. $60 for the grill, $30 for the mesh, and $40 for the STi badge (laugh). Parts:  Completed:   No pics of it installed yet, because I just finished it tonight.
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Feb 10, 2010 01:35
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Since I knew I'd just be cutting the guts out of it, I decided to spend $60 on an off-brand replacement instead of a Subaru 'official' one. edit: I also didn't want to use my stock one just in case I made a horrible mess of this one.
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Feb 10, 2010 02:03
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Got my tax return in today.. in the form of four wheels & tires. 4 Drag DR-33 wheels @ $130 each - 18"x7.5" 4 Falken Azenis RT-615 tires @ $114 each (after $20/tire rebate) - 225/40R18 Free shipping! Also included free, one attention-whore cat. And now.. several weeks of them being in storage waiting for spring.
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Feb 23, 2010 01:39
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TeamIce posted:Just got my full Brembo setup swapped on (Well, actually got it done like 3 weeks ago...but just got the pictures from the shop now.) Picked up the front and rear calipers from a 2006 STi for pretty cheap, and they're in good condition. I'm amazed at how much of a difference in pedal feel those plus a set of DBA Rotors and stainless steel lines has made. In the past, if I had to panic brake, I found the car shook and the steering moved around like crazy..now it's very solid and planted.
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Mar 10, 2010 02:11
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Can I get your guys thoughts on something? I put my new summer wheels on this weekend and.. they rub a little? But only under braking and turning to the right (left seems to be okay), and just for a fraction of a second. I can't see any evidence on the tire itself, but I haven't taken the wheel off yet to check. From what I'd read about a Spec B, I would have thought a 225/40R18 tire on an 18x7.5" +45 offset would have been fine (stock was 215/45R18 on 18x7" wheel, +55 offset), but.. it's definitely rubbing a little. I looked and really couldn't see any evidence on any of the suspension/steering, so my hope is that it's hitting the wheelwell liner or the very end of my fiberglass lip but I don't know, I was pretty bummed out when I heard it. Given the lack of fitment issues with the tiresize/wheels size on a Spec B, is it most likely something non-critical? Maybe the offset wasn't enough? I followed a very comprehensive wheel offset guide on the legacygt.com forums, and supposedly I could have run a 235/40R18 without any issues. edit: car is 2007 LGT Spec B, stock everything suspension-wise.
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Mar 24, 2010 00:34
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I miss my Legacy, as I got rearended last thursday. Low speed (30mph or so) and thankfully it was a small car, so it only messed up the rear bumper and bent the driver-side exhaust all outta whack. Unfortunately, the call I got said there was *probably* a little frame damage, so they were going to try to get that straightened out. My rental Chevy Impala is pretty.. bland. It's not bad, better than my prior rental (bottom of the line Buick Lucerne) but I don't think I'll be buying one anytime soon.
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Mar 28, 2010 01:01
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Had a huge loving go-round with a local dealership trying to get my 07 Spec B inspected last week. Earlier in May, my wife bought me NH-legal tint. NH legal tint is rear side windows and rear window at 35%. When the installer got started, he verified with me it would be NH-legal. So, with this assurance, I took my car where I always take it for inspection, the local dealership, with whom I have an established relationship, and they tend to be very trustworthy, and have yet to screw me. Around 1pm I got a call saying that my car failed for the tint, it was reading 32% in the sides and 30% in the back, which is over the limit. I let them know the installer promised me it would be legal, and they said it was probably reading over because most new cars are tinted 2-3% from the factory. I called the installer and let him know it failed, and cited their reading and logic. He said he'd been through this before, and would call the DOT for me and would call me back tomorrow. So, the next day (the last day I could legally drive on an uninspected vehicle) he calls and says the 'fight it' route will take longer than I've got. What he said is that the readers they use for tint (even though they're state approved) can read high by 3-5%, so even though my tint was legal AND the tint manufacturers account for the 2-3% on the (so the tint would actually likely be 38%) I had failed. He asked me to bring my car down, and he would redo the tint at 40% at his cost. So, eventhough I had legal tint, I failed for illegal tint because the readers read high, and the dealership (having more to lose if they get cited for illegally passing vehicles) has no reason to pass it. Good times.
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Jun 13, 2010 15:40
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| # ¿ Apr 30, 2024 14:30 |
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Is there a reason I can't seem to find 17" steel wheels for winter? I have a set of wheels for winter currently, but they have a lot of spokes, and thus allow a lot of snow to become caked on the inside of the wheel. Driving on the highway with this is basically like taking a whole bunch of wheel weights and chucking them haphazardly onto the inside of the wheel. While it's not a huge pain to clean them out (I just use a scraper handle), I'd love a better long-term solution, like ordinary, black steel wheels, which don't seem to be available bigger than 16". Thoughts? It seems really silly not to make them with the prevalence of stock 17"+ wheels on the market these days.
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Feb 20, 2011 16:12
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