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ab0z posted:I kind of agree with you on this, I've never had to read the instructions to use manual hvac controls, but the auto system in the saab I got recently is mystifying. How confusing is the auto system in the regular STi? Climate Control is great, setting it to 70something year round beats constantly adjusting the dial as the weather changes, or as the car warms up.
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Dec 12, 2009 02:43
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Black88GTA posted:So I just looked at it again, after it had cooled down all the way. I think I'm hosed. You should really try the thermostat, if it's stuck completely closed it could explain why your overflow tank is full? If it's not that you're only out $15 or so.
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Mar 8, 2010 19:24
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I blew through the hose connecting the overflow tank to the radiator - seemed a bit tough to blow through at first, but it's fine now. I sniffed the radiator fill neck with the cap off, and it smells like exhaust. As far as I know, the only thing that can make your coolant smell like exhaust is either a bad HG or cracked head / block - right? So, I think it's done.
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bull3964 posted:I would kill to find someone competent for nearly anything I can't or won't do myself. There is a good shop around here, a father and son team with a few other guys. They're not really cheap, but not expensive either and are totally honest. I'd drive a long way if we ever moved to bring a car to them.
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Jun 16, 2010 18:40
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You should visit something like truecar.com, put in your numbers/options and at least get a reasonable idea of what you should be paying. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110575753225&viewitem=&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26its%3DI%26otn%3D1&category=31870 Or email those guys and see what they can do. sanchez fucked around with this message at 17:13 on Aug 22, 2010 |
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Aug 22, 2010 17:09
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Cmdr Will Riker posted:My wife and I just moved to the Washington DC area and I understand that frozen water sometimes falls to the ground (like from the sky!). Something to note here is, if the snow gets bad enough to require AWD, the entire city will close down and you will probably be off work. It's always nice to be able to leave your house if you have to however. I'd probably go insane driving a stick around here too, but that very much depends on your route to work and your tolerance for stop and go crawling.
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Oct 22, 2010 20:39
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Cmdr Will Riker posted:So if there's really no problem with snow, should I even bother with snow tires? Or is that still pretty much a necessity regardless of how a city deals with it? At a rough guess you'll be driving on actual snow of any depth at most 10 days a year, probably 5. The rest of the time it's clear pavement with patches of ice/slush in shaded spots, driveways etc. Goons with snow tires will know if they're any better on ice, I have no idea. I don't know anyone that has them here. (It's why nobody goes to work when it snows)
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Oct 22, 2010 22:12
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I foolishly sold my Jeep last week thinking I could wander into a Subaru dealership within 100 miles of DC and drive/buy a base 2011 WRX. This seems to be impossible, if they have any at all, they're loaded with so much crap they sell for more than 30k. Was visiting my parents in a small town in Iowa over new years and the dealership there had 3. What gives? If this keeps up I'll have to fly there and pick one up from them. My decision to test one before getting something more ordinary (accord) was vindicated though. The stereo sucked, it's loud inside, the stock tires were terrifying in snow and things are a little cramped. None of that mattered after it spooled up in 2nd and 3rd though  Seats and steering wheel were perfect.
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Jan 4, 2011 15:19
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Jared592 posted:I know this is automotive insanity, but please think of the person behind you before you run catless. Being stuck behind a catless car in traffic sucks. I think this is more catless cars that are running very rich.
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Jan 7, 2011 21:30
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I put a deposit down on a base silver 5 door wrx yesterday, the dealer is promising 5-7 weeks as they (apparently) ordered it for their normal inventory several weeks ago. We'll see. It'd actually be nice if it came in March, I don't want to drive on anything resembling snow with those tires. Will get a good set of all seasons on it for next winter.
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Jan 12, 2011 20:21
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Tatrakrad posted:
I posted earlier on about this, but I test drove a 11 on packed snow/deep slush with the factory tires. It was awful, the ABS got a huge workout, the car would go sideways with very little prompting as well. If I had to drive that car in conditions like that for long, I'd be genuinely scared.
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Jan 14, 2011 17:25
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Seat Safety Switch posted:The stock map is still terrible according to my tuner's dyno, at least. You should absolutely seek an AP, or better yet, a decent open source tune by someone with some experience. Is there a solid answer somewhere on if Subaru can tell if the car has been flashed? Assuming you flash back to stock before taking the car to the dealer. I'm wondering if there are timestamps somewhere...
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Jan 16, 2011 15:14
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allonblack posted:I've been told that when you divorce your accessport from the ECU it restores the backup it took prior to flashing it which restores the stock ecu checksum along with any and all traces of the ECU having been flashed. Excellent, I somehow managed to miss that on their site. It looks like the opensource stuff is fine too, I like the AP better as it seems like nearly any shop will tune with one.
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Jan 18, 2011 15:23
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Car came  (and is sitting at home because we're getting ice today  )One thing I hadn't noticed before is how good the visibility is (5dr), I can actually see things instead of the enormous C pillars other cars seem to have now. The stereo is not as awful as the internet says, I think it'll do. The car is pretty quick and the speedometer is quite small, going to have to watch that. No regrets so far, I paid 24788+tax/tags for a base hatch with short shifter, probably could have done a little better, but not having to rely on public transport for another month was compelling.
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Feb 1, 2011 15:17
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bull3964 posted:If it's ok to use the smaller filter, that'll make things much nicer since I can buy a six pack of filters and crush washers online. What part # are your smaller filters? I've been reading around intending to buy a bunch in one go as well, people have mentioned that subaru uses a weirdly high bypass valve pressure in its OEM filters and many 3rd party ones don't meet that. The OEM 15208AA12A is cheap enough though, might make sense to just buy those.
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Feb 6, 2011 15:50
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I'm getting a consistent 24mpg, probably a 70/30 mix of highway/stop and go. Still under 1000 miles and therefore under 4000rpm 99% of the time though.
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Feb 15, 2011 15:09
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I flashed Cobb stage 1 (11 wrx) this morning, the drive to work was very interesting. I do a lot of stop and go driving and had been struggling with smooth takeoffs in 1st, the same thing applied at some traffic lights etc. It seemed like the throttle behavior was inconsistent, sometimes I'd be fine, but sometimes the revs would shoot up when I applied a small amount of gas leading to excess clutch slippage. At first I thought I was just out of practice after 2 years of driving an auto, but it persisted for weeks until this morning. The AP seems to have somehow changed the throttle response, it is linear, predictable and somehow seems less sensitive at very slight levels of application. It could be a huge dose of placebo affect, but I'm happy. The extra power is nice too.
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Feb 24, 2011 19:06
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Cat Terrist posted:The person with the quicker car doesnt have to drive as well, do they, I doubt they have as much fun or get as much satisfaction out of posting a quick time either. I think you have the correct approach.
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Mar 22, 2011 14:14
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Somewhat Hairy Ape posted:What sort of gas mileage are people getting on the 09-11 WRXs? I get 20 in traffic, 25 cruising at 55+ It's not cheap when the premium for 93 gas is added on top, but I think it's worth it, although probably not to drive 500 miles a week in. Buy something with really nice seats and sound deadening (LS400?) instead.
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May 2, 2011 20:03
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I have read on NASIOC (yeah yeah) that dealers are unable to order any more 11 WRXes due to the earthquake and will simply stop selling them until the 2012 is available.
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May 6, 2011 18:52
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infrared35 posted:
Those seem like great prices to me, especially the $325 timing belt. Brakes are on the high side perhaps but I'm sure it'll be a miserable job for someone.
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May 11, 2011 14:15
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There are a few intercoolers that feed from the bottom even though they're mounted up top, I think the MR2 was one? Also the turbo nissan bluebirds, which had what looked like a topmount with no hood scoop. I'm sure they don't work very well.
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Jun 10, 2011 13:22
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16 seems like too much to me, after the repair you'd be getting close to the cost of a new one (19-20k?)
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Jun 17, 2011 16:50
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bull3964 posted:Because of the change and the fact that I don't know of any decent 5w30 synthetic oil locally, I'm just going to keep using the subaru synthetic while I'm in the warranty period. I'll probably switch to the Rotella 5w40 once the warranty is done, but for now that would actually give them grounds to deny a warranty claim if I routinely used it since it is not the correct oil according to the maintenance schedule. I'm doing the same thing for the same reason. Subaru oil, filter and 3500 mile changes leave no room for them to argue.
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Jun 20, 2011 17:31
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I'm starting to notice quite a loud chattering noise when using the clutch when the WRX is cold. It goes away after 5 mins of driving. It happens whenever the clutch is not either fully depressed or fully released. Throw out bearing? Is this common? Just hit 5000 miles. There are no dealers nearby, getting it fixed is going to be a pain in the rear end.
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Jun 21, 2011 15:25
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Airbone Operation posted:Gas and insurance don't bother me too much. I am more concerned with just out of warranty parts making GBS threads and costly maintenance. If you own one from new and look after it you'll be fine. Used is a crapshoot because people like to install downpipes and drive around for months with no tune. If you live somewhere with a good independent Subaru shop, even better. Probably not as cheap to own for 100k than a Camry, but the cost will be in no way high.
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Jun 28, 2011 13:41
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I'm not sure an intake on the later cars is even really worth it, the power difference on a cobb stage 1 vs cobb stage 1 AEM map is minimal. http://www.smyclustermaker.com/ Those clusters are great if you want to add something without doing any permanent damage.
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Jul 5, 2011 18:25
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slidebite posted:So, honest and somewhat embarrassing question: Stage 1 is traditionally a reflash on a stock car, stage 2 is reflash with downpipe. Beyond that there is no consistency.
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Jul 7, 2011 14:15
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:Any other input on the near redline experience in a 260 mile old STi? I just did this and regret it, but don't really feel like a warm engine moving at high speed could really be bad for the car. I would think if i do that every shift during the break in that wouldn't be good though. Most of the breakin happens in the first few miles when the port and dealership employees along with any test drivers are beating the poo poo out of it anyway. (I find it weird that in the US cars can be sold as new that have been test driven) It's fine and was probably redlined cold before you bought it. sanchez fucked around with this message at 14:00 on Jul 13, 2011 |
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Jul 13, 2011 13:58
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blargle posted:Even on a new car with a good, safe stage 2 protune, it generally only takes one bad tank of gas to blow the engine. This recently happened to a guy near me with an '09 WRX.. rod knock (already had the '09 WRX engine problem corrected). On the other hand, I've seen guys go 60k without a problem. Isn't that what knock sensors are supposed to prevent?
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Jul 13, 2011 15:25
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That must be irritating. I'd have IAM not at 1 or 16 triggering a check engine light if I could, it'd be nice if the AP or opensource roms could allow it somehow.
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Aug 17, 2011 17:30
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One thing on the oil, I would strongly urge you not to run it to the 7500 miles the owners manual states. 5w-30 loses viscosity pretty quickly, based on the uoa's I've done even 5000 is pushing it. I'm planning on doing 4000 mile changes until I switch from using the official Subaru oil once the warranty is up (same reasons as bull3964)
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Aug 19, 2011 16:47
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Saabarus are very bland looking cars, I can't imagine it's anything to do with the vehicle itself. Is it red?
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Aug 23, 2011 19:29
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Lazor posted:I think I'm going to run synthetic in the new engine since the new ones require it from the factory so I figured it would be a good idea. What were you running before? Conventional oil in a turbocharged engine seems insane to me, it's not like the cost difference is that great.
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Aug 24, 2011 13:17
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Once you have that map and the intake on there, make sure you do some 2nd and 3rd gear pulls to redline with the AP logging anything knock related (IAM, feedback knock, fine knock lean) right away. Don't rely on any canned map to be right for the car, it'll probably be fine, but better safe than sorry.
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Aug 31, 2011 15:29
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I'd shoot for a 2.5 (eg the 06) if you can. I think the 06/07 is one of the best looking WRX models too, that's just personal preference though.
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Sep 3, 2011 20:57
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I am pretty sure an aftermarket ecu flash will disable the check engine light for some emissions stuff as well.
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Sep 10, 2011 23:07
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Just use the old one, as long as you didn't mangle it I doubt it'll leak. My jeep had a similar sort of drain plug, I never replaced the gasket over 80,000 miles and it was fine.
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Sep 11, 2011 20:43
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:I think I lost some lovely heat wrap/tape or something from my 2011 STi. I didn't notice so many wires and colors until the other day. Am I crazy? Anyone with a 2011 care to look under their hood and see if these wires are exposed or clothed? From the front of the car looking at the engine bay these wires are on the very top and left of the intercooler/turbo near the firewall (passenger side). I have a 2011 not-STi, those wires are all exposed and kind of wrong looking as well.
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Sep 20, 2011 13:40
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It makes me wonder how much money people who don't like cars waste on them. If I wanted a transportation appliance I'd buy a late 90's accord and drive it into the ground rather than buying new every 4-5 years like most people seem to.
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Sep 20, 2011 21:00
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$500 for a days labor seems pretty drat good to me, those parts are expensive though.
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Sep 22, 2011 13:50
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