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it takes a lot of power to spin four wheels. Braking and cornering have a lot less to do with the awd and a lot more to do with the tires.
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Dec 15, 2008 09:27
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sounds like it has a lovely tune, is hitting boost cut, and goes into limp mode. Have a compression and leak down test done before you even consider buying the car. That will tell you if there are actual mechanical problems with the motor, like a cracked piston caused by detonation.
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Dec 15, 2008 19:52
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Lando posted:Evidently using realtime flash instead of a complete reflash has shittier settings or something, so the rumor on nasioc goes. Just start the AP before you start pumping gas, by the time its done at the pump, you should be done on the AP. it's no different at all. But if you reset the ecu/disconnect the battery it goes back to the base map.
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Dec 18, 2008 08:23
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"[ELP posted:"] yeah that will definitely do it. But hey you can sell that thing online for like $75. Or keep it for a tune or bigger turbo.
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Dec 19, 2008 10:54
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well that was quite the trip home:   
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Jan 2, 2009 07:31
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yeah they ditched dohc n/a motors in 99. Well, in the us anyway.
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Jan 5, 2009 08:41
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put it through the pcv. the brake booster line will only seafoam cylinder 4.
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Jan 10, 2009 09:28
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Beerios posted:Is there any difference between the Outback XT and Legacy GT wagon besides the taller springs and a few bits of plastic? That's mostly right, but the suspension differences are more than just springs. The control arms and subframes are spaced downward to compensate for the added ride height. So you can't just throw on some legacy suspension to drop the car down without seriously loving up suspension geometry. You could maybe take the spacers out but I think even the steering column and shift linkages are different to account for the change.
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Jan 13, 2009 07:33
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The stock dbw mapping kind of sucks. We usually change it pretty significantly when we tune cars. Although I feel like it helps you rev-match for some reason.
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Jan 14, 2009 10:23
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MMD3 posted:...So I took my 9-2x aero into the dealer in early December with this clicking/slipping in reverse issue. I think I posted about it back then. They looked at it and said they need to either take the transmission apart to figure out what parts they'll need or just order an all new transmission. I guess after waiting on a response from Saab for about a week they finally got the ok to order a brand new transmission and replace the whole thing. wow. Someone who knows what they're doing can do it in less than 3 hours. Mr. Powers posted:There might be OpenECU related software. there certainly is. If someone felt inclined to put some cams and an exhaust on their 2.5i some tuning could probably be done to take advantage of that, and some higher octane fuel. You could make, like, 150whp. oh, so we finished up a rotated 30R sti tonight, and on a fuel mixture that worked out to around 97 octane it made 460whp before the clutch started to slip. We slowed down the spool a bit so he can get by. jamal fucked around with this message at 06:24 on Jan 15, 2009 |
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Jan 15, 2009 06:19
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it will certainly help. We recently tuned an sti with a cutout off the downpipe and an external wastegate, and it made about the most power anyone has ever seen on the stock turbo. 365whp on about 95 octane (stock reads 230ish). Replacing the header and up-pipe will see more gains than just the up-pipe as well. I really like the gt-spec/mad dad/tomei EL parts. They do make a slightly different sound though. jamal fucked around with this message at 08:35 on Jan 15, 2009 |
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Jan 15, 2009 08:31
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no way did a saab dealership crack open a subaru gearbox. If I had to guess they broke one of the spring pins on the axle and rounded off a nut on the bellhousing or something. Those bottom ones are pretty easy to gently caress up if you don't have a really short wobbly socket. I think it bugs the snap-on guy when I buy individual sockets. jamal fucked around with this message at 09:29 on Jan 15, 2009 |
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Jan 15, 2009 09:23
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TeamIce posted:Primary issue I have with replacing the header is that all the equal length ones make the car sound really gross. Are there any decent unequal length ones out there? these are really good. They come with an up-pipe, so you'd have to sell that perrin. rallysportdirect has good prices, although I might be able to get them for a bit less.
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Jan 15, 2009 10:23
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MMD3 posted:loving sigh... talked to the service duder again, yeah, they replaced the whole thing. He kept repeating how they haven't had to do one of these before so they want to make sure they do it right... okay, I get that but, 3 days? really? uh, you said it was a manual, right? There aren't any lines he would have to bleed. Call surgeline tuning. If they don't do service stuff they'll be able to direct you to a good place that does.
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Jan 16, 2009 08:24
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oh yeah. not like it takes more than 2 minutes though.
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Jan 16, 2009 09:35
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well I had a fun day today:  although I could have sworn I took more pictures. Too bad I spent most of the day doing other poo poo and digging around for missing stuff.
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Jan 17, 2009 10:51
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to make the e-bay "bellmouth" downpipes, they take a piece of pipe and hammer it out to fit the exhaust flange. This is a pretty crappy way to do it and they will crack eventually. A good downpipe, on the other hand, has a cast bellmouth that tapers to the rest of the downpipe. Invidia and Cobb are both like this. I would highly recommend getting one of those two, depending on the rest of your exhaust. The invidia has a 3" flat flange while the cobb tapers to the stock donut gasket. They are also both available in catted or catless. You can get a brand new invidia catless downpipe for like $230 on ebay, which is about cost. Headers, well, they'll pretty much all crack eventually, but some are better than others. We've had really good results with gt-spec, which are identical to tomei and mad-dad and probably a few others. The equal length headers also produce noticeable gains over un-equal length. A gt-spec header and up-pipe combo retails for about $650 so if you shop around you can get it for less than that. Or you could spend $3k on full-race parts. I put some on a build I did awhile back and there's a car in the shop with a set. Oh my loving god they are amazing. jamal fucked around with this message at 12:57 on Jan 18, 2009 |
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Jan 18, 2009 11:04
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Chunderbuss posted:New car, new problems... My 01 STI is only boosting 8.5 pounds, far less than it should be stock. No CEL and aside from the lack of power (first turbo car, I really didn't notice!) it drives fine, any ideas or quick fixes that might work before it goes in to the dealer to get them to check it out? check the boost control solenoid on the right strut tower and make sure the lines are going to a T and to the intake. There should be a restrictor pill on the compressor side of the T. You'll be able to see/feel a little bump. Or, the wastegate actuator could have popped off the arm, or the car could have overboosted and gone into limp mode where it only boosts wastegate spring pressure. What mods are on the car?
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Jan 20, 2009 05:08
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We put some suspension an an 08 sti the other day with Robispec. Basically, KW clubsports and most of the whiteline catalog:     Those plates are pretty badass and combined with the motorsport ALK the car has something like 10 degrees of caster. It's nice that subaru finally got around to putting caster in these cars. My Legacy has maybe 4 degrees with an ALK, but the new legacies and imprezas have almost 6 stock. Tonight we put on some robispec swaybars, cusco rear control arms, and gave the car a corner balance and alignment. We're thinking of trying to use the car for street class time attack next season since it already has 390whp and a cosworth long block on the way. jamal fucked around with this message at 09:58 on Jan 21, 2009 |
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Jan 21, 2009 08:26
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VERTiG0 posted:I'm looking at an '06 WRX wagon, but it has 136,000km (about 85,000 miles). Should this be scaring me? It's only $16k and has a clear title. Not sure on the price, especially in Canada land. I will say that you should try to find an 06-07 over the older models because it has a 2.5l, which is much, much better than the 2.0. It also gets fixed, opposed piston calipers and bigger rear brakes than every other wrx.
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Jan 23, 2009 06:54
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oh god no not mobil 1 5-30. seriously, I've seen a lot of spun bearings where the mobil 1 5-30 was one of the leading suspects in the cause. There are even claims that the oil doesn't meet apl/gli/whatever certifications. When I do an oil change, I can tell when it's mobil 1 5-30 because it comes out like water. jamal fucked around with this message at 08:07 on Jan 23, 2009 |
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Jan 23, 2009 07:54
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Lando posted:The tranny might be the only real goodie worth the difference. that, and all the other stuff that comes with it. DCCD, helical diffs everywhere, better hubs and wheel bearings, brembos. Then there's the wider track, wider wheels, more aluminum suspension parts, better struts, dual avcs, bigger intercooler etc.
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Jan 26, 2009 22:24
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Just Another XY posted:Conversely, if I were to purchase an '08 wrx, and wish to get it up to par with an '09's performance, what would I need to spend/buy? A VF52 (09 turbo) and a good tune. Add a downpipe and you're at around 280whp on pump gas for less than $2000. A stock 08 sti makes 230whp on our dyno, for comparison. jamal fucked around with this message at 08:21 on Jan 28, 2009 |
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Jan 28, 2009 08:14
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yeah the struts springs and swaybars are all a bit stiffer. And it has summer tires instead of the RE92s. So maybe you are better off going with the 09, unless you were going to replace all that stuff anyway.
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Jan 28, 2009 08:55
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cars101.com
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Jan 29, 2009 10:22
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CV joint? As for the headgaskets, they went on my 98 2.5gt. Then I replaced them and did a bunch of other service/maintenance and my car is awesome now. I keep hearing that it is more likely than not that it will happen to older 2.5s. All I have to say is that I'm really, really glad I didn't have to pay someone to do it. Oh also I put on a whiteline rear swaybar today. My car doesn't really understeer much anymore. It's set on full soft until I get the right bushings for the front bar. jamal fucked around with this message at 09:30 on Jan 30, 2009 |
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Jan 30, 2009 08:32
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you can technically do it with the motor in the car, but not easily. It doesn't take that long to just pull the motor out, and if you're doing other seals and maintenance at the same time it makes it much easier.
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Jan 30, 2009 18:37
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yeah, when WRX shopping, if at all possible get an 06-07. They got a bunch of nice upgrades over the 02-05 like the extra displacement, avcs, better brakes, more aluminum suspension parts, etc. For 08-09, the GT badge applies to 09 automatics, which I think still have a TD04. For 09 the WRX is the 5-speed with a VF52. The VF52 is basically a VF48 (sti turbo) with a compressor cover to suit the intercooler and plastic intake manifold. We're seeing 300whp with stage 2 mods on the 09, where with an 02-08 you're lucky to get 230. Suspension and swaybars were also stiffened up slightly, it got summer tires instead of RE-92s, and the front seats have red WRX stitching like the old school GCs. Additionally, the 08-09 wrx does not have a rear LSD due to the traction control system or something, and they're back to a steel hood and suspension links. Even so they're a good 200 lb lighter than the GD. MMD3, find one of those alignment places that does free alignment checks. pep-boys, firestone, etc might do it. If there's more than 1.5-2 degrees of negative camber in the rear something may be bent (it looks like the strut) jamal fucked around with this message at 09:20 on Feb 3, 2009 |
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Feb 3, 2009 06:30
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yep. The 5-speed is a purely mechanical awd system, so the front and rear get an equal split of torque until there's a speed difference and the viscous coupling adds resistance. Some of the 5-speeds have a rear transfer reduction ratio of 45:55 to give a bit of rear bias. The older 4eats had a set of transfer clutches that would lock up dependent of throttle position, gear selection, wheel speed, and a few other variables. So cruising around it would be 90% front drive, but could transfer some power rearward. Under extreme conditions, such as the front wheels on ice and the rear on pavement, it can't transfer all the car's power, but it generally works really well. The fact that it locks up the clutches before wheel slip is a great feature, and the awd on my old 93 legacy was way better than what's on my mom's brand new rav-4. Newer automatics have a system called VTD. Instead of the clutch pack it uses a planetary gear system that creates a rear bias and allows more transfer of power to the front or rear. I can't really explain it much better than that because I've had a hard time finding any real technical details about it. The STi 6-speed and some older JDM 5-speeds have DCCD. This starts out with a rear-biased center diff and adds electro-magnetic clutch packs to limit slip. In auto mode, the system will use throttle, steering, wheel speed, a yaw sensor, g-sensors, and probably a few other things I'm forgetting to determine lockup. Generally more throttle and less steering angle means more lockup. Using the manual mode you can move the diff from full open to full lock. How much lock full lock actually means is something I wonder about all the center diffs, but the dccd will create enough to cause hopping and binding in low speed turns on pavement similar to a 4x4. It's recommended in the manual to not use full lock on pavement. For 06 a helical lsd was somehow added to the clutches but I'm not exactly sure how all that works together. jamal fucked around with this message at 10:21 on Feb 3, 2009 |
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Feb 3, 2009 08:47
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subaru awd is fantastic when you've got your foot down. While turning and stopping it doesn't do quite as much. So, if you want to take advantage of it, you need to use the throttle and not the brake. When you do they will go whichever way you point them. It's wonderful. One of the things that all cars will do to some extent is snap oversteer when you lift suddenly or brake in a corner. This is because the weight transfers forward off the rear tires very suddenly. Generally the last thing you want to do is jam on the brakes. When you do this you'll just keep going in whatever direction you were starting to slide, or start spinning, regardless of the car or drivetrain layout. In your case, however, it looks like you just went into the corner too fast for the conditions/your tires, and went right off the road. jamal fucked around with this message at 09:23 on Feb 3, 2009 |
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Feb 3, 2009 09:18
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ssjonizuka posted:Fixed... The 48 is what is on my LGT. The 38 is what came on the STi, IIRC. no. The LGT turbo is the VF40 or VF46. The 08 sti has a VF48. I think other years of 08s had VF39s and VF43s. The VF48 is not some silly turbo based on the LGT. The sti still uses the older style top mount intercooler and compressor outlet, and the turbo is an updated version of the 43. Artemis J Brassnuts posted:Contrast that with an RWD car (or an STI with the DCCD set to sent 80% of the torque to the rear That's not actually technically correct. When you set dccd to "rear," it's actually set to full open. So, for an 04-05, for example, this means a 35:65 rear torque bias. And that is the bias, period, and it doesn't change. However, since you have a rearward bias, the rear tires will spin first, allowing you to do some nice power-oversteering action. With dccd not open, the torque bias will actually change dependant on slip and %lockup. So at full lock you could have almost a 100:0 or 0:100 front:rear bias depending on traction. jamal fucked around with this message at 05:42 on Feb 4, 2009 |
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Feb 4, 2009 05:18
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), where you can stomp the gas to break the rear end loose and change your trajectory.
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An open differential has a 50:50 torque split all the time (barring some reduction ratio). A locked differential has a torque split that is dependent on traction. Think about it this way. You set the dccd to full lock, and the front tires are on a surface with 0 traction, and the rear tires are on pavement. With the locked differential, all the torque goes to the rear wheels. The torque bias is dependant on the traction, since the motor cannot produce torque without an equal amount of resistance from the tires. So, all the resistance is done by the rear tires, none is done by the front, and so the torque split is 0:100. jamal fucked around with this message at 07:48 on Feb 4, 2009 |
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Feb 4, 2009 07:44
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notice how in my example the diff is at full lock? And yes, with a completely locked diff the torque is sent to the wheels with traction. you guys seem not to understand how differentials work.
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Feb 4, 2009 08:14
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they would turn the same speed. except there is no resistance between the ground and the front wheels, so there is 0 torque going to the front wheels. If the engine produces, for example, 50 lb-ft of torque, and the differential is locked, and the front tires have 0 traction, that 50 lb-ft of torque must all go to the rear wheels to move the car forward.
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Feb 4, 2009 08:24
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ok, sure. I was ignoring drivetrain loss. But only the torque required to turn the actual mechanical components in front of the differential is applied. so I guess the torque bias is actually only something like 0.5:99.5 jamal fucked around with this message at 08:36 on Feb 4, 2009 |
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Feb 4, 2009 08:33
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Cat Terrist posted:
sorry, that is not correct. You can't have "wasted" torque. The motor can only generate as much torque as the driveline and wheels can transfer to the ground. That's physics: for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction. So say we have a 50:50 open diff. If the rear wheels have 50 lb-ft of traction, and the fronts have 20 lb-ft of traction, the motor can only produce 20 lb-ft of torque at the front wheels to move the car. Because the diff is open and biased 50:50, it means that only 20 lb-ft can go to the rear for a total of 40 lb-ft to the wheels. As soon as the motor produces 41 lb-ft, the front wheels spin. After that the motor can not produce any more torque because there is no additional load. The horsepower generated will depend on rpm. If, given the same 20 lb-ft of front traction and 50 lb-ft of rear traction, with a totally locked diff the motor would be able to produce 70 lb-ft of useful torque, and the differential torque split would be 20:50 (or 28:72). jamal fucked around with this message at 12:15 on Feb 4, 2009 |
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Feb 4, 2009 10:04
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Artemis J Brassnuts posted:A locked diff means that equal torque is being sent to all wheels and there's what everyone keeps getting completely wrong. An OPEN diff means equal torque is getting sent to all wheels. Just because one wheel is spinning does not mean it's getting more torque. Torque is simply a twisting force that has nothing to do with rpm. One spinning wheel will be getting slightly more power, but no more torque than the wheel sitting there on pavement that can't move the car forward. jamal fucked around with this message at 09:07 on Feb 5, 2009 |
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Feb 5, 2009 08:07
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for 8 hours of dealer labor you can buy an entire used 5-speed and have a competent shop swap it in. Call Andretech in Gaithersburg, MD. They're possibly the best subaru transmission shop in the country.
jamal fucked around with this message at 07:31 on Feb 6, 2009 |
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Feb 6, 2009 07:27
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haha. It's a subaru thread, not an argue about differentials thread. I explained how they work clearly and accurately. If people want to go on not believing me they can, or just go look it up themselves. There used to be a fantastic write-up online about dccd and differentials, but it was on some guy's university hosting and apparantly doesn't exist anymore.
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Feb 6, 2009 07:33
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so the car is completely undriveable? I would at least call them and ask if they can suggest somewhere in your area.
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Feb 6, 2009 07:40
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