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jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
An over 30 guy who uses it to commute?

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jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
The parking brake light is also the low brake fluid light.

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
I like to open the bleed valve with a little hose going into a bottle when i push the pistons back. I also use a syringe to pull all the old fluid out of the reservoir.

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
I like the double swivel I got from matco. But sometimes the right size extension to put your wrench between the head and chassis rail works too.



The single joint ones there are 14mm for fa/fbs and stuff.

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
Probably three things adding up

more responsive, higher cr n/a engine in the rs, less weight, and the gear ratio difference isn't nothing

jamal fucked around with this message at 03:04 on Mar 1, 2022

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
I like to hit things with a hammer while prying, the shock helps pop things loose. A big whack on the side of the lca is really good for getting the ball joint out of the taper.

Also I have one of these pullers

https://www.company23.com/532

a nasioc guy made his own version of that and was selling them years ago, i think TiC even was producing them for awhile.

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
IMO a big part of that 1qt/1000mi thing was "what no your ringlands definitely aren't cracked that's totally normal!"

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
Oil pressure switch is right about there. I've seen a couple of them break and leak oil.

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
If a volvo driver assist in a manual emergency stops you will it stall the car if you don't push in the clutch/take it out of gear? That's probably a thing mfgs don't want happening.

hobbesmaster posted:

Idk how it’d be so transmission specific? Trying to game MPG efficiency might have something to do with it, full time 50/50 AWD is a big hit to fuel economy.

Most subaru autos don't do "full time 50/50" awd. There's a clutch pack to the rear prop shaft that engages by varying amounts based on throttle position, wheel speeds, steering angle, etc. So mostly fwdish most of the time. It's kind of weird to think about torque splits with this because they don't rely on speed differences like a traditional LSD and so while under some specific conditions you could have nearly a 0:100 f:r split you'll never have the rear tires spin faster than the fronts. The VTD cars do have an actual center diff kind of similar to dccd though.

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
Yeah I don't think I would remove an injector on a car more than a few years old without having new o-rings for it. And then get them all nice and lubricated as well. It's also pretty easy to bend the lines and rails a little out of shape which can then also cause a leak.

https://www.rallysportdirect.com/part/fuel-injector-components/2-001-4-deatschwerks-top-feed-injector-ring-kit

jamal fucked around with this message at 02:06 on Dec 9, 2022

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
Pretty sure 04-07 sti are 36, 08-17 are 40mm, and brz pp calipers are maybe 38mm pistons. Or so the spreadsheet I made at some point says. I also have a good amount of effective radius info, some from service manuals, some from kind of guessing/drawing circles in cad

jamal fucked around with this message at 05:09 on Jan 21, 2023

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
Generally yeah

https://turninconcepts.com/driveline/tic-06-subaru-shift-linkage-bushings.html

those guys take out a lot of extra play. But are also kind of annoying to get to. You need the right size roll pin punch, have to lower the transmission a bit which puts the exhaust kind of in the way, and you might as well replace the front and rear shift bushings with the kartboy ones while you're at it. You could also replace the shifter but that's another kind of extra process.

jamal fucked around with this message at 19:39 on Mar 16, 2023

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
Seems like probably a vacuum leak? Go over all the little hoses from the intake to the manifold to the turbo boost lines and such. Maybe there's something obvious like a really loose or disconnected or cracked hose.

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
Yeah I mean in the US bicycles and chainsaws and other "mechanized" equipment aren't even allowed in the Wilderness, let alone cars.

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jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
The clutch disc sits on splines on the transmission input shaft, not the engine. The flywheel bolts to the crankshaft, the pressure plate bolts to the flywheel, and they squeeze together with springs. The throwout bearing either pushes or pulls on the springs to move the pressure plate disc away from the flywheel and let the clutch disc and transmission spin independently of the engine and flywheel.

I can't really think of anything that could rust/seize together so badly and be strong enough to not just break free from the load of the engine/weight of the car when things started moving at different speeds.

On push type clutches (most n/a cars, 06+ wrx), it's not uncommon for the stamped steel clutch fork to actually just break where it pivots on a little ball. Happened on my legacy years ago. The pedal will still feel relatively normal, although a bit stiff, but the TOB won't be able to move far enough to fully disengage the clutch. Cheap part, not cheap labor. I think there's a company that makes an aftermarket machined one. You'd want to replace the TOB, check clutch wear, and maybe do a sleeve kit at the same time.

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