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Thanks, Subaru, for making the easiest wheel bearing removal I've ever done. Now I just need Fedex to deliver my new assembly, as well as my pads and rotors. Ugh.
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Apr 5, 2013 21:56
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chrisgt posted:The unit bearing is nice. But two things with that job really piss me off. The loving bolts for the caliper bracket... WHAT THE gently caress SUBARU!! They're completely inaccessible (at least on the 00-04). horrible design. Mine's an '05 LGT, and yea the caliper bracket bolts are poo poo for accessibility. Not really THAT bad, but I had to play with a few different extensions to get a decent range of ratchet motion. Reassembly wasn't bad, though. I stuck all 4 bolts in the holes, put the shield on, then started the bearing one bolt at a time, just a few turns each. Dinner time came before I finished, I'm going to bolt the caliper brackets on now, then reinstall the calipers and bleed the brakes.
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Apr 6, 2013 15:37
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chrisgt posted:It probably helps that yours isn't a complete ball of rust like what I work with in Maine.. Hey, I'm in MN. We definitely do "balls of rust" as well as anyone. Not sure how many winters this one has seen, though. Definitely not driven every winter like I'm planning on doing.
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Apr 6, 2013 22:27
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What's the cross-reference like on the rear differential assembly for a 2005 Legacy GT base manual? I've got what sounds and feels like a bad pinion bearing in mine, and I'd rather just grab a used one to toss in until I feel like rebuilding the old one.
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Apr 18, 2013 21:49
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I seem to think this was already a recall from a while back? At least I thought it was. edit: Yea, looks like they're expanding it to cover more models. But it was out for the Legacy/Outback models a few months back. http://wheels.blogs.nytimes.com/201...type=blogs&_r=0 PitViper fucked around with this message at 15:43 on Jul 3, 2014 |
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Jul 3, 2014 15:40
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bull3964 posted:Really wish that was the case, but it doesn't seem to be. There's an overwhelming number of people who have done regular maintenance and kept things completely stock that still develop major engine issues. I mean, hell, we've had like 2 or 3 in this thread alone and that doesn't seem like it should be statistically likely due to the sample size. FWIW, my '05 LGT munched an exhaust valve on #4 a year into my ownership. I was the third owner however, and the car did have some warning signs of prior owner nonsense (vac line for boost gauge, audio system hookups, crappy HIDs). If I hadn't gotten it for a few grand under the average market rate here in the frozen Midwest tundra, I would probably have passed. I'm planning on it getting an OEM shortblock with forged pistons sometime in the next couple years, because I'm sure it's just a matter of time until I get a cracked ringland. Hoping it makes it to 200k before that happens. I mostly recommend non-turbo Subarus to people who ask, and warn them or steer them away from the early 2.5 NAs.
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Dec 2, 2014 18:47
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Front LCA bushings on an '05-09 Legacy GT. Are they as big of a pain as I'm expecting them to be? Any must-have tools to make them easier? I do have a 20 ton press, and an assortment of materials and cups to press things like bearings. I'm looking into doing Whiteline bushings in mine, and a buddy wants me to put stock-type bushings in his. I'm just looking to save myself some time and hassle and make sure I grab anything I might possibly need before the day comes.
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Dec 20, 2014 03:51
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Front left is the front corner, left side as you are sitting in the driver's seat. Likewise with front right. Has nothing to do with LHD/RHD, it's simply because the struts are different on each side on the front of the car 
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Feb 18, 2015 19:55
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For filling the rear diff, just buy a gear oil bottle pump. Its around $10, you can get it at any parts store, and other than sucking (because of all the pumping) it's the easiest way to fill any rear diff. Also handy for FWD gearboxes where the fill plug is only partially accessible.
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Mar 14, 2015 16:46
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'05 LGT, rebuilt the heads two years ago because it burned an exhaust valve. Still got a fantastic deal on the car, and it was an easy enough DIY job.
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Jun 23, 2015 02:54
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BloodBag posted:What would make the steering wheel want to judder back and forth ever so slightly when gently applying the brakes on an 08 impreza? I've felt warped rotors before and that felt like the whole car shuddering, this feels... like the car wants to wander all over the place. I test drove an older outback that did the same thing. What do? Check the ball joints too. I had this issue on my Legacy recently, what I thought was just warped rotors was a ball joint that was failing. When I lifted it to check the brakes, I had probably a half cm or more of play in the ball joint on one side.
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Sep 23, 2015 22:33
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Discount tire (at least here) doesn't shave tires. I just had a unrepairable puncture on my LGT, and even with the Discount Tire warranty, I just ordered a replacement from Tire Rack. I'm still kind of bitter about it, because I think the guy at DT was jerking me around (wanted to replace my DWS's with some Yokohama tire for $400/4, and said it'd be $80/tire more for the DWS). I paid $140 for a single DWS shaved from Tire Rack, and I'll just order from them and mount/balance myself from now on.
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Dec 5, 2015 05:01
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Yea, Subaru wants the same brand/model all around, and same tread depth within 2/32" or so. The old DWS is discontinued, so maybe Discount just isn't getting them anymore. That's why I had Tire Rack shave and ship one, its wintertime in MN and I didn't want to keep loving around with DT over $140, especially when I'm working 50-60 hours/week with their competitor across the street.
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Dec 5, 2015 15:49
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Yeah, as long as it's a plug/patch combo that gets pulled through from the inside, they should last the life of the tire. I've done hundreds of them, and only had a couple that didn't hold (and I knew those probably wouldn't, but the customer wanted me to try anyway)
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Mar 28, 2016 03:38
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Sadi posted:So I had a nail go through my sidewall and gently caress a tire. Should I get a new tire shaved or just rock it? New tire should have 9/32 tread depth. Just measured my other 3, they are 7.5/32, 8/32, and about 7.25/32. Eh, I'd probably have it shaved. I believe Subaru says no more than 2/32 difference between the highest and lowest wear tire, so you're right on the edge of that. I'm sure plenty of people have done it, we have people coming in all the time who want one or two tires on their Outback/Forester, and don't understand why we'll only install sets of 4 on AWD vehicles.
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Apr 10, 2016 19:51
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BloodBag posted:E: I still have the vestigial mounting points for the AC tensioner pulley on mine even though they moved to a stretch belt on the GH. gently caress stretch belts. I hate doing work on newer Subarus just because of the stretch belt and the PITA of removing and installing it. Should have just redesigned the old tensioner to be auto tensioning instead of manually adjusted.
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Dec 7, 2016 19:52
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gently caress nonseviceable TPMS stems. They're always lovely corroded aluminum, and they always break. We tell people up front that we'll try to replace a leaking service pack on a nonreplaceable aluminum stem, but also quote them and get approval for a new sensor. Luckily we stock a few dozen of the Schrader 33500 sensors, which cover almost every vehicle we see. Just need to run the programming sequence for the vehicle. We also never use the aluminum service packs for the replacements, we just use the standard rubber stem. No corrosion, and easy to replace in the future if need be. Win-win!
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Jan 9, 2017 15:44
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Do you want performance winters, or standard studless winter tires? I'm running Continental WinterContact SIs on my Legacy GT, and they've been excellent in the Minnesota winter so far. I shopped these and the XI3s, but the Continentals were less expensive, and should still last me 3-4 seasons at least. I'd probably run the XI3s, unless you have very mild winters. We regularly dip in the -10° to -20° range, and have lots of slushy, sleety, snowy weather, so I opted for something less performance oriented. The WinterContacts had the correct load index, and were still an H-rated tire. Edit: If you only see snow and sub-freezing temps sporadically, and never have deep snow, the SZ3 or Pilot Alpins will be better than a normal all season without compromising your dry handling too much. They are softer than an all season, so temps above 45° will wear them faster than something like a Pilot Sport AS3+. PitViper fucked around with this message at 22:04 on Jan 13, 2017 |
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Jan 13, 2017 22:01
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All of my most frustrating Craigslist experiences have been trying to give things away. No, I don't want to ship it to you. No, I won't hold it for a week. No, I don't have some other random item you're looking for. Just this one.
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Jan 25, 2017 15:18
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jamal posted:Which downpipe? I think those connect to the stock 2.4" donut gasket so if you have a 3" downpipe it would cause a slight flow restriction. And you have a catless up-pipe, right? I can confirm the Magnaflow exhaust on the '05-09 LGT is loud as poo poo. Was on the car when I bought it. Liked it for the first couple years, but the droning on the highway is starting to bother me. Plus my wife tells me my dog can hear me coming about a minute before I pull into the driveway.
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Mar 3, 2017 23:42
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fwiw, I just replaced an OEM axle on my wife's Crosstrek with a Masterpro from O'Reillys, and it doesn't exhibit any weird shudder or shake at idle when in drive/reverse. $50 plus $5 core. The old axle looked fine, but its had a clicking when turning sharp under throttle since we bought it in July (also two bad rear wheel bearings, but those are basically consumables in our house). I also used the EMPI axles from Rockauto in my LGT 5spd, since both my fronts had ripped inner boots. For the price, it's worth it not to dick around replacing the boots and regreasing the joint.
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Sep 17, 2017 21:30
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Or try something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DHQ6K7Q You can get them in Bluetooth or standard corded versions. I'm planning to try the BT one in my '05 Legacy in the next month or two, once I finish remodeling two bathrooms and a basement.
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Nov 19, 2017 20:42
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Fifty Three posted:
Are you taking pictures of my car right now? I've got spots like that starting in the exact same spot in front of both rear wheels. Since the clear coat is peeling off the hood, bumper, spoiler, and both front fenders, I'm probably gonna clean it up and hit it with some touchup paint eventually, once winter finally ends in MN.
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Apr 7, 2018 03:39
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Internet Explorer posted:What do you call this type of connector? I've always seen it referenced as an SAE extension cable or connector. I'm sure it has a spec number, but I've never bothered to learn it. Here's a 25' extension, but I'm sure you can find a shorter one if need be http://a.co/1baMhzO
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Jun 25, 2018 05:01
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nwin posted:Suggestions on headlight replacements? Original bulbs? I've been a fan of the GE Nighthawk bulbs. Not too pricey, bright without being super white/blue tinted, but relatively short lived (16-18 months between replacements judging by my Amazon purchase history).
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Feb 19, 2019 16:31
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They should pivot on the ball inside the link, but if it's not smooth or feels gritty, it's time to replace them. Which reminds me that I need to replace both my rear links...
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Mar 3, 2019 14:42
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My wife's '13 Crosstrek with 170k on it merges into 70mph traffic just fine. Not on stupid short onramps obviously, but given a normal ramp it's fine. I'm holding out for a '20 Outback with the 2.4 turbo to replace my '05 LGT. No manual is a bummer, but it's just a daily driver anyway.
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Mar 20, 2019 17:39
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incogneato posted:Are there any rumors or best guesses when the '20 OB details will be released? I've been tempted by a 2019 Forester lately, but I'd like to see what's coming to the OB first. I've only heard "by fall". And I definitely won't be buying new, but maybe picking up an off-lease after a couple years.
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Mar 21, 2019 20:41
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So my wife has a 2013 Crosstrek, 2.0 with the CVT, 175k miles. Under light accell, it'll buck/surge. Moderate to hard accell is fine, maybe a sporadic hiccup when accelerating past 2500rpm. Most noticeable is causing at 60, coast down to ~30-35mph and ~1500rpm, and then pressing the fast to accelerate back to 60 will often cause it to surge/buck, almost like the torque converter is locking/unlocking repeatedly. We bought the car a couple years ago, and have done just standard maintenance to it. Oil changes and filters every 5k, new shocks/struts on all 4 corners and new diff oils when we bought it. I have not changed the CVT oil, but that's probably my next item to try. Any ideas where to start? I tried to replicate the issue today with limited success, but I certainly hear about it when it happens while she's driving without me.
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Aug 11, 2019 21:41
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Ugh. CVTs!  If that's the case, it'll probably get a low mile used CVT thrown in if it starts getting worse. I've got a few locally for $500-700 with 60-80k on them. Doesn't help that the '13 was apparently a unique CVT vs the '14+ models. Drove it around for around 100 miles yesterday, could only infrequently make it act up. I'll probably try changing the fluid next weekend, and put in the spark plugs I've had for it since last summer. Too bad the extended warranty on the CVT was up last July. I should note that it drives perfectly in "manual" mode. But that's not terribly acceptable to the wife, unfortunately.
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Aug 12, 2019 14:40
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Any recommendations on where I can buy a remanufactured head for an EJ255? My '05 LGT is starting to act up, misfires on cyl 2 consistently enough to set the CEL a couple times a week. Last time it was a burned valve, but I don't have time to redo it myself and have the car down for a week. I suppose 217k miles on an EJ is pretty good for only eating two exhaust valves.
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Oct 3, 2019 15:24
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daslog posted:I usually buy a spare set of heads and bring them to a machine shop to rebuild. That's my backup plan. But that involves finding a used set of heads, which apparently aren't easy to come by in MN. Hopefully I can find a pair in the next month or two.
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Oct 4, 2019 00:05
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Well, this was not the way I wanted my day yesterday to go... Looks like my 222k mile LGT popped a head gasket. Now I'm trying to convince my wife that I should just toss a motor in instead of spending $10k we really shouldn't spend on a newer car. If I hadn't just done all the suspension bits, the steering rack, and new summer tires last spring, I might be more apt to get rid of it. But other than a little rust starting above the rear wheels and all the clear coat peeling off the hood, it's a solid car. edit: excuse the probably crappy photo. Phone posting. PitViper fucked around with this message at 03:28 on Feb 3, 2020 |
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Jan 29, 2020 15:45
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I just fixed it! Progress during my kid's nap today after spending a 40° MN day at the zoo... The motor will turn over about 320 degrees, then gets stuck on..... Something. Something that's probably not good at all. Hopefully the motor is out tonight or tomorrow night, then I can tear it down on my day off Weds and plan out what I'm gonna do.
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Feb 3, 2020 03:33
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Well I think I found my problem....  And the other bank, just for comparison.  Looks like a rebuild on the cyl heads and shortblock. I'm considering a new OE shortblock as well, but I need to call around to a couple places and see if rebuilding the current one with some better pistons might be cheaper. Plus maybe a tune, since this is the second time it's eaten an exhaust valve in the last 90k miles I've owned it Edit: Part of my problem is likely that all the PCV lines and the inlet tube under the intake, and basically all the rubber intake bits, are rotten as gently caress after 222k miles. The inlet tubes are easy enough, but is there anything special I should use for the PCV lines? I'll be doing some sort of air oil separator setup when I put it together, but I'm looking for something easier for the PCV hoses than tracking down new OEM ones. Are silicone hoses acceptable for the PCV hoses? PitViper fucked around with this message at 00:14 on Feb 6, 2020 |
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Feb 5, 2020 21:16
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gently caress. The running tab on fixing the motor on my LGT is between $3500-4500, depending what the machine shop finds when they split the block open. Or I could just buy another, slightly newer, lower miles one for $7500 that just popped up for sale. One owner, supposedly all stock, summer/winter wheels and tires. The paint on mine is trash on the hood, there's a little rust in both rear quarters, and it's at 223k miles. But I also just put all new struts, bushings, a steering rack, and new Pzero A/S tires on last spring. I was hoping to avoid another car purchase until my kid was out of daycare.
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Feb 12, 2020 22:05
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Lord of Garbagemen posted:Is there a reason you think the bottom end would be trashed? If everything is good just have it checked for warpage, and get another good cross hatching. When I burnt a valve on the sti, I did that, replaced pistons, bearings, and rings and the thing has been humming along for 80k miles . It had a pretty good overheat limping it home, but with 223k on the block I was playing it safe. If I were planning to keep it another 4-5 years I'd spend the cash to have everything checked and done right, but at this point I'm thinking about checking the deck, having the heads done, and throwing it back together and seeing how it goes. If it runs well, I might list it cheap and get something in better shape. Or just grabbing a good used longblock and getting rid of it. And yes, the shop would be doing the machine work and assembly of the shortblock and heads. It's not much more than having them just do the machining, and it saves me the time doing it, which is in short supply with a two year old running the house.
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Feb 13, 2020 02:34
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Oh, that total isn't just the machine shop. That's their labor, new valves and seals, set the valve lash, deck the block, polish and measure the crank and mains, new bearings, and the possibility of any cracked pistons. Plus all the gaskets, hoses, a new radiator, and a new clutch for me to put everything back together and back into the car. I could probably scrape it together for less, but most of the PCV lines split taking them off, the downpipe was apparently cracked off right behind the last cat, and the inlet pipe to the turbo was soft as a sponge at the turbo inlet. I'm using this motor pull as an excuse to try and fix everything I possibly can, so I don't have to repeat the experience again. My wife is hesitant to spend this much fixing a car that's honestly only worth $2500 at best, but replacing it would cost significantly more. Eventually we'll replace mine with an Outback, but I'd like it to be one of the new XTs when they start coming into the used market in 3-4 years.
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Feb 13, 2020 04:46
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If just the rear brakes are worn, no reason to also do the fronts, unless they're close. Depends if you'd rather pay a double bill now, or pay the same bill again later. And I wouldn't call that excessively unreasonable. I bill about that for brake labor as a shadetree, and as long as they're using good quality rotors and pads, that's not awful for "parts here right now". The Centric coated rotors I'd normally use are $28/each at Rockauto, and the ceramic pads are another $25. Usually ends up being 3-4 days and another $15-20 in shipping. Getting brake parts in hand same day is usually significantly more expensive, especially if I want decent parts.
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May 7, 2020 03:05
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My wife has a '13 Crosstrek with the CVT and 183k miles and.... It's ok? I'll probably do a partial fluid change at 200k, but it "shifts" perfectly fine still. We bought it at 150K and other than new struts and a wheel bearing when we bought it, it's only gotten oil changes every 5k. Needs an AC compressor, but since it's been mostly sitting since corona started, it's been low on the list to fix. I certainly don't want to pay to fix it if it breaks, and new/reman CVTs are $buckets, but I certainly would rather drive the Crosstrek than the '09 Sebring I'm currently borrowing while I fix the blown motor in my LGT. I'd much rather drive a manual, but I think the Subaru CVTs are certainly good enough for a daily driver. I'm a little sore about the CVT-only new LGT/OBXT, but my next daily was going to be an auto anyway, so we could switch cars when needed. I'll have to test drive one eventually and see if I'd like one for a daily.
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Aug 9, 2020 20:20
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