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I just picked up a 2001 Legacy GT Limited so this thread is wonderful to see. I was wondering if anyone could help guide me towards what brake pads I should be getting, as mine are just about shot. As much as I would like to try it, I don't really see any track time in the near future, but I would like to get some decent performance out of them. I believe I've seen people mention the HPS series as being being excellent for cars that see the track, but I think I'm looking for more of a daily use price performer. Any suggestions?
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Oct 14, 2008 18:54
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OK, I feel like a total idiot to have to ask, but I am lost trying to change the oil in my 01 Legacy. I have the chiltons which says I need to remove a plastic cover, but the one they have pictured which looks nice and easy to slide out of the way does not seem to be on my car at all. I don't see any clips to remove and I have no loving idea what to do now. Help?
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Oct 19, 2008 18:44
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ok,i figured it out. there are three big fat plastic screws that do not actually seem to tighten or loosen when spun, but can be easily popped out of their respective holes and when they are out, the panel can be pushed forward to remove. So, with that done I managed to complete the relatively painless oil change. Next step: Pads/rotors. I was just poking around the trunk and found the little jack for the car, but I couldn't locate the lug nut wrench... I assume it is supposed to be next to the jack, yes? If not, where would I find it. And assuming for a moment I do not have one - what size wrench should I go purchase for this?
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Oct 19, 2008 20:56
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Oh, I already have stands/jacks ready, I was just looking for the lug wrench to pull the wheels off. Why do you suggest a full flush? I expected to have to bleed them when I finished with the change but if a full flush is really needed then I'll do it. What all is involved in a full on flush?
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Oct 20, 2008 01:40
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Hopefully someone will be able to shed some light on the issue I'm having with my newly purchased 01 LGT limited. I live in Minnesota, and it is starting to get colder out. I've had it happen a few times in the summer that when I first started the car, for a minute or so the idle would be high, and when I would put the clutch in to shift from 1-2 or 2-3 the revs wouldn't drop. What I found worked best when this happened was to clutch down - shift to neutral - clutch up - Clutch down - Shift to gear. This would make the revs behave. After about 3-5 minutes of driving the revs would start to drop at the proper points and I wouldn't need to continue this procedure. Now that things are getting cooler I've noticed that this is happening every morning when I first head to work, and when I leave the office at the end of the day. Does anyone know what could cause this?
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Nov 13, 2008 21:24
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azflyboy posted:I believe the high idle is related to the engine being cold, and the idle comes down to normal as the engine gets up to temperature. I can understand the idle being a bit higher as it warms up, but is it really normal to have the revs go up to 2500-3000 when putting the clutch in? This is my first Manual Transmission car, so I am picking this up as I go. I also found that the engine is a fair bit louder at first in the AM, sounds like it may be a clicking/ticking as I give it gas. Again, after three or five minutes it seems to go away....
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Nov 14, 2008 10:52
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I know I saw a recommendation for a replacement MTF and Diff fluid in this thread somewhere, but I can't seem to find where. I've got an 01 Legacy GT Ltd with a LSD in the rear and I'd like to do the fluids. The handy Chilton manual says I need 75w90 for both the Gearbox and Diff. If I remember right the recommendation was Shockproof brand, but not sure if I should get the heavy, light, or superlightweight versions? Also, do I need any special additive for the LSD?
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Jul 8, 2010 20:13
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I am running fifty-fifty MT90 and (I think heavy) Shockproof. I think you have to get the kind without the friction modifier, as well. So 50304 and 58204?
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Jul 8, 2010 21:46
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So more like This? Do I need to get some of the LSD additive they sell as well, or is that not needed?
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Jul 8, 2010 22:13
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Wait, I think I'm getting more confused...Amazon.com posted:Red Line 75W90 NS - a GL-5 which does not contain the friction modifiers for limited-slip hypoid differentials. This makes the transmission synchronizers come to equal speeds more quickly This seems to say the GL-5 is the oil without friction modifiers and I thought I needed those...
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Jul 8, 2010 22:30
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I never would have guessed gear oil got as complicated as that. OK - Am I correct in thinking that options are as follows? Transmission Fluid - RedLine 75w90NS? Or a 50/50 of 75w90NS and Shockproof Heavy? Rear LS Diff - Redline 75w90NS + LSD additive?
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Jul 8, 2010 22:42
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Harbor Freight has little rubber caps for their jackstands, I put those on and it seems to help with the whole not crushing the pinch welds. Not sure if there's a better way, but it works well enough for me. If I may keep pestering about Trans/Diff fluids, I did some more looking around and was recommended this kit http://www.grimmspeed.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=31&products_id=76 It contains - 1 Pennzoil Synchromesh Quart 2 Castrol Hypoy C 80w90 1 Redline Lightweight Shockproof apparently its gotten a few good reviews, and is actually fairly inexpensive for the whole kit. Anyone think it is a bad idea? As it stands I am looking at picking this up tonight after work.
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Jul 9, 2010 19:08
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Any chance you could link me to what you're referring to? I've been dicking about a bit at NASIOC but haven't come across it yet. I really figured it would be easy to find a standard "4qts of x or 2qts x plus 2qts y" that people had luck with.
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Jul 9, 2010 20:13
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nm posted:
Honestly I just picked them because they are less than 2 miles from my place. I was able to stop in in person, grab what I needed, and get out. Probably not how most people do it, but hey, it worked for me.
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Jul 13, 2010 21:47
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As I was replacing the rear brake pads last night I saw to my dismay that my rear swaybar was not, in fact, connected to the endlink. Lovely. Anyone have a recommendation for replacement endlinks for an 01 Legacy? Second, is it safe to drive in the current state? Third, is there anything else I should be doing while I'm at it replacing the endlinks?
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Aug 18, 2010 20:26
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Can someone remind me of the alignment settings I should ask for if I'm getting one done? I'm having the rack replaced and if I have to do an alignment I'd just as soon get a little better than stock. For reference - 2001 Legacy GT Ltd.
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Dec 28, 2011 21:07
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So... just how difficult is doing an engine replacement in one of these? I lent my winter car to a friend to use for the summer and it now has a nice new inspection window in the engine block. Not 100% sure on the how, but thats not important here anyway. What is important is that i have an 01 Legacy GT Limited with a 5 speed and an LSD in the back that was the best snow car I've ever owned, and I'm torn between giving the car up or getting a new motor. I can't think that the car is realistically worth too much, but I've taken good care of it in the 7ish years I had it, and I just did about a grand worth of work to replace the exhaust, and quite a bit of other major work in the last couple years. The body is in meh to decent shape, no major cancer rust yet, which is impressive considering its done a decade of Minnesota winters. I am moderately mechanically inclined, I've done a fair share of basic maintanance stuff on vehicles in the past, but never anything like pulling a engine. So that leaves me with a few questions: Is it worth throwing another motor into a 14/15 year old car? Is it something I could manage myself in a weekend or so? Where would I even look to find another engine that would cost me more than the car is worth?
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Oct 25, 2015 21:15
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So I guess the question then is how do I go about finding another motor? As much as the idea of dropping something with some more oomph and a turbo sounds awesome, I think I have to be realistic and get another NA 2.5. I saw RockAuto had them at something like 2800-3000 which would seem to be... high. Is there a reputable source of used/rebuilt motors? Sorry for dumb questions like this, but its all new to me. Can I just go rip one out of a junkyard? How would I know if the donor motor is any good? etc. EDIT - I have either an awesome wife or a terrible one. She's asking about the feasibility of a turbo'd engine swap. Can I get some clarification on just how much more work would be involved if I were to say I wanted to go in that direction? Altimeter fucked around with this message at 01:49 on Oct 26, 2015 |
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Oct 26, 2015 01:21
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So my 01 LGT is too drat expensive to resurrect for a second time. I'm looking at newish outbacks, and the dearth of manuals is forcing me to take a consider alternatives - cvts are magic and I don't know much about them. How do the cvt and traditional auto compare in these? Equally reliable, anything to steer clear from? Any major areas of worry on the 2011-2015 era of outback?
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Oct 8, 2016 17:42
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mariooncrack posted:There's a class action lawsuit against subaru for excessive oil consumption. My 2014 has 31k miles and they're replacing the short block next week. That a '14 specific thing? Cause I actually found a 14 with a 6speed and 55k that I could definitely live with ... Edit: see the link - anyone know if that extended warranty would apply to CPO and/or used cars sold private party? Altimeter fucked around with this message at 00:35 on Oct 9, 2016 |
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Oct 9, 2016 00:30
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Mutar posted:That a '14 specific thing? Cause I actually found a 14 with a 6speed and 55k that I could definitely live with ... Dealer didn't want to budge on anything so I'm looking at doing a fly and drive home option now. Anyone know of a reputable shop to do a thorough PPI reasonably near Arlington Heights in Chicago? I hear six star is good but they're booked out a couple weeks so that makes things tricky.
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Oct 10, 2016 21:24
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