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funkyboogaloo posted:That's what I thought. I dunno just looking at the 2009 WRC car vs say a 1998 or 2006 car it looks BIG. Well, you want suspension travel which means long control arms, exacerbated by the drivetrain width on transverse 4wd cars, and large track width for stability in corners. DJ Commie fucked around with this message at 19:19 on Oct 4, 2008 |
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Oct 4, 2008 19:14
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jamal posted:yeah as long as you have the right socket plugs are not too bad. I don't see how anyone could get away with charging more than an hour for labor. Or $50 per plug. I figured out how to do it with just some tips from people and some helpful tools in an hour, including taking them off again to do a compression test and reassemble it.
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Oct 12, 2008 18:32
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The Lamco gauge is in MPa (megapascals) for some reason. Boostin' from 0 to .15 doesn't sound much fun. Its bar but with the decimal in the "wrong" place.
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Oct 13, 2008 17:34
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The more I've been working on the various turbo Subarus, the more I realize the incredible amount of work to make everything even barely accessible, a turbo boxer is a packaging nightmare, even more so with modifications like a larger turbo and under-manifold inlet piping. Also Perrin's FMIC kit cost more than my awd turbo car and its registration. baccaruda posted:Sincerely, we don't do this here 
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Oct 18, 2008 07:21
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Isn't there a door on the cover? There should be, but that old I don't know. There are clips that you can take off and the whole undertray slides off.
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Oct 19, 2008 19:49
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TurboLuvah posted:Echoing this question. I really want a set of good mudflaps, but $130 for a set is kind of steep. A pair of Sparco mudflaps is $20 from SubeSports, they are universal fitment and are actual mudflaps rather than stock Subaru ones which keep grime off the body and nothing else. Rally Armor ones are nice, but the price is a bit steep if you want to just have basic working mudflaps.
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Nov 6, 2008 06:24
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ScaryFast posted:I saw an STI at a light a few nights ago that took off like a rocket in the snow, and it sounded so awesome. I want a WRX but don't want to pay for it and I'm not a manual fan either so a normal Sport with auto will be fine for me. Yes I know I'm an idiot(not really) for preferring auto. The auto is so mindboggling bad and unsuited to the turbo engines that you should just get an Audi A3.
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Dec 12, 2008 17:55
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Lando posted:Man, I got a pretty good hookup today from a local NASIOCer. I've been looking for a decent used downpipe, 200-300 bucks was my budget. Find a guy on NASIOC who is practically giving away a bunch of stuff, as he is about to deploy and it doesnt fit his STi<parts are from a previous wrx>. If its a full hose kit, it takes a HUGE amount of time. Don't forget new clamps, the OE pinch clamps are terrible and might not work well for the silicone hoses. Also TurboXS is pretty much eBay special stuff.
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Dec 28, 2008 03:00
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RealKyleH posted:Do I really need a BOV/BPV for a few weeks? The aftermarket 50MM BOV on my car is leaking (PO installed) and I don't feel like fabbing the parts to repair it ATM. Will the back pressure on the turbo actually be bad for it until I get a stock BPV on there. WHen the throttle plate closes quickly when you are in boost, a pressure wave goes back through the intake tract and back through the compressor of the turbo, ususally stalling it completely. It makes a horrendous noise and causes some more bearing wear on the turbo. I run my GTX without a bypass about half the time, but its not exactly a good thing for it. Also, you'd have to block off the recirc port on the intake. Also the MAF will NOT like it, putting air backwards through one will likely have odd reactions by the ECU. Stock bypass valves so rarely fail (Bosch valves are an exception) even with highly increased pressure that just leaving it alone is the best course. That and if you live in a smog state, not having a stupid bright purple thing that obviously isn't stock sounding like a fart won't attract any more attention. DJ Commie fucked around with this message at 08:29 on Mar 26, 2009 |
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Mar 26, 2009 08:27
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I think the 2004 STi is the least desirable, mostly because of the non bolt-in wheel bearings, different lug spacing (5x100?) and a slightly different differential setup.
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Mar 27, 2009 22:58
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Anyone seen one of these: I got it from a turbo RX Coupe AWD with a high-low range 5 speed and that diff lock. What a crazy trans that must be.
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Jul 6, 2009 04:25
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"[ELP posted:"] The turbo shouldn't be smashing into the bellhousing/block, its supposed to be attached to a bracket that is mounted securely to the engine, do you have some sort of crappy up-pipe or someone remove a bracket they shouldn't have? I remember jamal and I 'massaging" lots of things for fitting big turbos, so maybe try to find some sort of other cooling arrangement or try loosening the up-pipe to block bracketry and see if you can get some space.
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Aug 7, 2009 01:57
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bung posted:My 09 does that too but I don't know why. Drive by wire has all sorts of logic that isn't apparent, stuff like rev-hanging, power steering up-idle, and all sorts of stuff. It sounds pretty normal to me.
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Aug 17, 2009 00:51
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69sofine posted:You don't necessarily have to ditch the turbo timer. Really really easy to steal cars with them, it bypasses all the security and immobilizers.
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Aug 30, 2009 04:47
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ab0z posted:It looks like the bearings don't actually touch the hub. Am I reading this wrong? Well, the theory is that the inner race that is pressed onto the hub seizes partially and starts galling the surface of the hub itself. The axle fits into the inner splines of the hub, and the bearings resides on the oustide of the splined shaft on it, with a small gap in order to torque up the bearings so it won't fall apart the moment it gets some lateral force.
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Oct 28, 2009 09:54
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I have one of the key switches for the Speed Alarm with a key if you want it. I've had it for years and never used it for anything.
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Nov 9, 2009 02:13
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jamal posted:my friend matt just got his new turbo kit finished up: Now post how many gearboxes he's gone through...
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Dec 19, 2009 20:41
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Seat Safety Switch posted:This 2006 WRX was posted on the local Subaru forum, and I'm thinking of making an offer on it. The seller posted this picture of his engine bay: Its a horn for an alarm.
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Jan 6, 2010 19:48
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Seat Safety Switch posted:this qualifies them as "bushed" endlinks (as opposed to spherical?) Yeah, once you swap to rose-joints/spherical setup, the NVH increases significantly. As the hardness rises (from soft rubber to urethane to metal), it transmits more high frequency vibrations.
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Apr 27, 2010 20:59
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jamal posted:unless you want this to happen: Miss that driveway. Don't miss that weekend.
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Apr 29, 2010 01:53
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Amandyke posted:I'm thinking it might just be the seafoam degrading the octane rating of my fuel. So I filled it up yesterday and put some octane booster into the tank this morning. Seafoam has various types of oil in it, which immensely lower octane ratings of fuel. I expect that contributes to it, maybe you have a bad coilpack too?
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Jul 18, 2010 20:48
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"Bottom of the tank" Doesn't exist as people think, since the pump-sock/inlet of the pump resides at the bottom.
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Aug 12, 2010 06:40
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Cat Terrist posted:There's VERY good reason for that - Japan has 100 RON and ECUs are tuned to suit. You can -just- run a JDM car on Aussie fuel but it's not recommended. 100 RON is extremely good fuel to say the least so even 93 octane from the USA would be unsuitible immediatly. Totally different octane ratings. here its (RON+MON)/2. quote:Depending on the composition of the fuel, the MON of a modern gasoline will be about 8 to 10 points lower than the RON, Because of the 8 to 10 point difference noted above, the octane rating shown in the United States is 4 to 5 points lower than the rating shown elsewhere in the world for the same fuel. See the table in the following section for a comparison.
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Sep 20, 2010 04:14
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Just Another XY posted:Hm. My '09 WRX needs new tires. After having made a great idea to move from San Diego to Chicago, looks like I'm going to be buying two sets of tires very soon. I went from DZ101s on my race car to Star Specs and gained nearly 20 seconds at Thunderhill, although 50% power increase and other things probably helped, thats a gigantic change in time on a 3.0mi course. The traction available was immense, and went from a car with lots of crappy tire to a car with lots of great tire, and they barely wore with ~16 hours of racing with aggressive suspension setup.
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Oct 5, 2010 19:24
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Looks like an overbuilt engine with an awful lot of stupid and useless ricer poo poo stuck on there (JDM headlights point completely the wrong way (left and up) and their reflector designs probably aren't able to be changed to down and right). Grounding kit? lovely brand FMIC? O2 displays are of pretty limited usefulness since I would hope you wouldn't be staring at it doing 40-140 pulls on the freeway. Dynos use their own widebands usually so its some weird sense of security wow look at me blinky light regardless of whose name is on it. Otherwise you'd buy a half good car with a rated power output. Why does it have all those STi parts added on the list, is it not an STi? 04s are the worst STi.
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Oct 9, 2010 02:04
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burtonos posted:I had an exhaust leak somewhere, so I went to Chicago and got it fixed! With that big of a blow off valve, it should be!
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Nov 17, 2010 18:58
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Amandyke posted:Well I suppose that might depend on your LSD. But as subaru has a symetrical drive train you *shouldn't* get single wheel spin fests like you might with a transversely mounted engine. The way power is distributed has absolutely nothing to do with the direction the engine is laid out. Hell, even generational and continental differences exist between cars. My Mazda has 3 open diffs with the option to pres butan to lock the center diff, the later gen adds 35/65 center bias and a rear LSD but no butan to push. Evos go from full mechanical to more advanced setups to individual yaw/wheel rate control in a few generations. BMW went from rear-biasing center diff with rear LSD to open diffs with computer controlled individual wheel braking to slow wheelspin. It just goes on and on. DJ Commie fucked around with this message at 05:25 on Dec 9, 2010 |
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Dec 9, 2010 05:22
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Amandyke posted:Except that it's easier to spin a shorter axle, so that wheel will always spin free in an open diff when there is a limited traction situation with both wheels on that axle. But way to bring in irrelevant information there. VDC is a replacement for LSD's when the car manufacturer wants to cheap out and achieve a similar result. Except everything has equal length driveshafts. My 22 year old AWD Mazda does, Subaru does by virtue of drivetrain design. Evos have for a billions years, Audis get by on the same longitudinal rule. I suppose 1G DSMs and therefore Evo 1-3 and MK1 Galant VR4 might have not, but they didn't really have torque steer with rear bias anyway.
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Dec 14, 2010 18:23
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EBC Redstuffs are very aggressive and wouldn't work very well on a street driven car with low ambient temperatures (like winter), yellowstuffs are less aggressive than the Reds with more variance in environments they would work in.
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Feb 19, 2011 04:00
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Lord Gaga posted:I am not sure why people would say that Subarus shouldn't have front mounts. Untuned Subarus shouldn't have front mounts because the MAF will read air before it gets to the throttle body (significantly longer than with a top mount), but this can be tuned around pretty easily. Unless it leaks out, air is air, and its been accounted for. The possibility of a large air density increase (cooler air at the same pressure) is what would necessitate a retune, nothing to do with length of intake tract.
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Mar 23, 2011 19:51
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I finally joined the Subaru Crew, I got a 99 Outback Sport (green with 5 speed) from the local Pick N Pull junkyard for $1400 ($1526 with tax) with all the parts to fix the body damage (found the same color OBS!), as well as a 1/3 discount coupon. Not bad for a family car, my 93 Mercury Capri has only the slightest hint of rear seats, whereas the OBS should be fine.
DJ Commie fucked around with this message at 16:46 on Sep 27, 2012 |
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Sep 27, 2012 16:39
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c355n4 posted:Welcome to the fold! How many miles does it have? 187K or so, its definitely a project, but at least its California and I have a matching model to buy parts from.
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Sep 28, 2012 03:17
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Got around to doing a compression test on my 99 OBS 5 spd. 210, 210, 195, 15, done with a fully warm engine, injector plugs disconnected, and throttle wide open. Burned valve or some other internal damage from a bad injector. Changed the injector and the cyl #3 misfire code went away, but its definitely bad. I got a complete engine from a 00 OBS automatic, anyone need any parts? I also have some misc parts from pulling apart other OBS models, I purchased many interior parts and have piles of clips, screws, window and door parts floating around. I have a spare driver's side window glass, window and power window/lock switches. Located south of San Jose, CA.
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Oct 12, 2012 22:11
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Amandyke posted:That's a lot of oil on the fins there. The turbo probably needs to be fully rebuilt. And if they had wended the IWG flange, they should likely throw in a port-n-polish as well since I doubt the seal will be as good as it used to. I don't think that is oil from the CHRA, maybe they sprayed it for rust. Oil would burn or at least very much darken, even at idle speeds.
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Oct 14, 2012 17:15
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Finally got my 99 OBS finished. Its running an originally automatic 2000 OBS engine, put into a California-spec 99 5 speed. Everything seems to work well, I didn't have any issues with the swap. I do have excessive brake travel, which was only slightly mitigated by a full bleed and replacing and adjusting the rear brake shoes. Is there anything else that could make a difference? This is my first ABS car, and I didn't see any sort of bleed ports on the ABS unit itself. Also, I need a few parts like clutch cable, throwout bearing, clutch pedal cover, etc. Is there a good place to get those parts other than RockAuto?
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Nov 4, 2012 00:57
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I did the timing belt/waterpump and valve cover seals on my junkyard 2.2L SOHC, and of course it leaks from the driver side cam seal now. 
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Nov 23, 2012 20:53
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Anyone have a spare Metra 70-8901 (or similar) radio harness for a 93-01 Impreza? I'm changing the radio from the sweet OE Clarion tape deck, and would prefer to not destroy the stock harness.
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Nov 29, 2012 16:26
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Before I have to deal with the bullshit that is eBay and/or NASIOC, I'm hoping to get rid of some parts from my $1400 junkyard 99 OBS engine swap and general repair project. I'm located in San Luis Obispo California, about 3 hours from LA, and 3.5 hours from SF. Everything is from a 99 or 2000 Impreza Outback Sport, probably fits anything from 93-01 complete 2.2L SOHC engine (99's original)(engine mounts and everything) $150 187K miles replaced fuel injectors, previous #3 had a bad injector and leaned out, burning a valve. Other cylinders have 190-210psi compression. Timing belt still attached, A/C bracket is cracked from lifting with it (don't do this). other parts: Driver side Mirror in Subaru Green Driver side mirror in black plastic driver side window motor passenger side window motor Complete 2.2L California airbox, includes new filter and hardware (no snorklet) air temp and crank/cam sensors complete tool kit in bag(lug wrench and screwdriver) tons of interior parts automatic transmission torque converter and flexplate 2 driver side window/power lock switches California MAP sensor 2.2L SOHC timing covers Huge pile of engine bolts/nuts and front suspenion bolts/nuts (California stuff so looks brand new!) idle air motor (iacv) driver window glass
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Dec 1, 2012 18:12
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Every iteration of Subaru Group A cars would be a nice start.
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Dec 5, 2012 18:28
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The Pro-sport knockoff Defi gauges are surprisingly nice. How much Extra S should I buy to do a 99 OBS 5 speed? I also should probably do the diffs, what goes in them?
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Dec 8, 2012 05:17
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