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drat this thread. I'm fairly positive I'm going to be trading in my '06 S2000 for a white '08 Forester XT Sports now. I talked my roommate into buying an '07 WRX TR over a year ago and the Forester Sports caught my eye then. I decided against it at the time, but the more I see awesome pictures of those and the more I realize how small my S2000 is, I really want one (with an STI suspension and wheels package.) This is blasphemy for me though, after having owned an Evo 8 and an Evo 9, along with about 12 other turbo Mitsubishis over the past 8 years. Shame on Mitsubishi for not stuffing a 4G63 and AWD system into every car they make.
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Oct 10, 2008 07:39
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BoostCreep posted:drat this thread. I'm fairly positive I'm going to be trading in my '06 S2000 for a white '08 Forester XT Sports now. Well the "financial crisis" mixed with how much I still owe on my S2000 makes it impossible for me to get the Forester. The blue book on my S2000 4 months ago was $26,000. Now it is barely 19k. Oh well. I guess I can just keep drooling over internet pictures and hating myself for making the wrong decision.
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Oct 11, 2008 01:43
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I just joined the AI Subaru club. I traded in my 06 S2000 for a 2008 Legacy SpecB. I LOVE this car. It is a little bigger, heavier, and a lot slower than my 06 Evo, and obviously completely different than my 06 S2000, but I do love this car. 6 speed, Navigation, leather seats with suede inserts, SI drive, and SO comfortable. The ride is incredibly smooth while being very planted and responsive on the 18" wheels. The best part is the sticker was almost $37k and I got this for $26k. I originally went to the dealership to look at an '09 WRX and saw this on the lot. It was the last 08 model they had on their lot and they really wanted to clear their inventory. I've always had a thing for the Legacy GT, and for this price I couldn't go wrong. Please excuse the cell phone pics, I'll take proper pictures with a decent camera soon and upload interior, engine, etc if there is interest. I will say it feels VERY weird being in a Subaru after owning 7 turbo Mitsubishis, but it's pretty clear Mitsu doesn't offer anything like this in their lineup. The Lancer Ralliart is as close as it gets, but the amount of luxury the Legacy offers for the price seems unmatched right now.   
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Jun 23, 2009 19:51
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I have an issue with my 2008 Legacy 2.5GT Spec.B and I am in the process of trying to figure out what to do about it. Figured this would be a good place as any to ask. This will be a long post. The problem, which is well documented among turbo Legacy owners, is a hesitation or stutter that the engine produces while accelerating in the lower to mid RPMs. This same problem was very common with the 2007 STi, which Subaru promptly fixed since so many STi owners complained about it. The issue with the Legacy, however, is that Subaru has never officially acknowledged it to be a problem and therefore has never tried to fix it, most likely because there are not nearly as many turbo Legacies on the road compared to STIs and they never felt the need. The problem is quite severe. Nearly every time I accelerate, the engine bogs down and lurches forward, then bogs down and lurches forward again, as if the timing is being drastically pulled or there is a shortage of fuel at intermittent bursts. It is most prominent around 2,000-4,000rpm but can happen really anywhere in the range. It can be pretty dangerous, as I have been nearly rear-ended twice while merging onto a highway with a very short onramp due to the engine cutting out and hitting a wall when I need it to accelerate. But most often it is just extremely annoying. I can see the heads of my passengers in the car whip forward and back when accelerating which also makes it quite embarrassing. I have searched forever through the LegacyGT forums and everywhere I could to find solutions, and there are a few which address the problem, but nothing that actually fixes it. Subaru released a reflash in early 2008 that was supposed to fix this problem, and apparently some of the older cars, 05-07, have seen improvements since getting the new flash. However, my car being an 08 and being built after the release of the reflash, is not a candidate. I know this because I've called around to 4 dealerships in the SoCal area and they all said my VIN did not have any ECU updates and they were not allowed to do any sort of reflash unless there was an official SoA approved flash in their systems. I have gone to two dealers in person and talked with their service department about the issue. Each time the person rolled his eyes while trying to tell me I am experiencing a magical thing called "turbo lag". To which I then explain that I've owned 13 turbocharged cars in my life, two being late model Lancer Evolutions, and that I am very well versed in the principles behind turbo lag. This is not turbo lag, this is a poorly tuned or otherwise loving terrible car that needs to be fixed or blown up. So, as I see it, these are my options from what I have read, please feel free to give advice where I am stupid: 1. Sell the car, buy something better. - I've looked into this, and right now it seems to be my best option. The biggest problem is I will lose about 5k in negative equity. I should have just bought the drat 09 WRX I wanted rather than being drawn into the alcantra, NAV, 6spd, and sunroof of the Spec.B. (also that it was priced almost 6k under invoice, brand new, and cheaper than the WRX. 2. Try to get the car fixed. - I can try, and dealers are willing to look at the car, but from what I've read about other people's experiences there isn't anything that can be done. Some people went as far as having the regional rep from SoA drive their car and be told that it is operating normally and have the warranty claim denied. I will be taking it to the dealer to have them look at it as soon as my schedule frees up anyway. 3. Modify it and hope the modifications fix the problem. - Tried this to an extent. I bought the COBB AccessPort hoping since the problem is a tuning issue that a brand new ECU map would fix it. While this did improve some of the problem, there was still hesitation and stuttering happening. Granted it isn't as severe, but it is still there and drives me crazy. People have said that once you get a FMIC and turbo-back and bigger turbo that the problem goes away, but I am not about to go through all of that just to fix a problem that shouldn't exist in the first place. 4. Get the car lemoned. - This is my last resort, but also ties in with fix #2. I was looking into it, and in CA I need to get a lawyer and basically sue SoA to get them to take the car back. This sounds like a huge pain and will probably be a lengthy and possibly expensive venture. So do any of the Subaru pros here have any advice? Has anyone heard of this problem? Really I'd just like to get a little conversation going about it to see what, if anything, people have heard and if there are possibly any fixes that I am unaware of.
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Oct 15, 2009 04:15
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jamal posted:you're in socal and have an accessport? That's a good idea, though it's ridiculous that Subaru can't tune their own cars from the factory. Will hbspeed tune for partial throttle though? Most of the problems happen cruising at highway speeds with barely any throttle at all, then trying to accelerate even the tiniest bit and having the car buck and surge. The problem happens in WOT between 2k-4krpm, and at every rpm or speed with partial throttle. It seems to me that the engine has problems reacting when it goes from negative to positive pressure.
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Oct 15, 2009 18:36
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I just wanted to update my earlier post about the troubles I was having with my Legacy Spec.B. I found a way to fix it... Last '09 STi at South Coast and it had some killer incentives as a result. I LOVE this car. I've only driven it 60 miles so far but it is light years better than the Legacy, as you'd expect. The interior is amazing, the shifter clicks smoothly but tightly into gear, and it is exactly what I'd expect from a proper Subaru. Every single thing that upset me about the Legacy is fixed here, from the sloppy shifter to the mushy suspenion to the poo poo NAV, and most importantly, the hesitation and stutter is gone from the engine. I'm in love.
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Oct 25, 2009 21:31
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Will the 17" wheels from the 05-07 STi fit the 08-09 STi? I'm looking for a set of wheels for my '09 STi for dirt and snow and I'd love to use a set of gold wheels from an '07 if possible. I know the bolt pattern is the same and the offset seems to be in range, but I'm concerned the 17x8's might not clear the brakes on the '09 which come with 18x8" wheels. I've done a bunch of searching and I've heard both yes and no, and all of the "wheel threads" I've seen are for adding 19x10 or something ridiculous wheels rather than going down to 17s. So anyone with practical experience?
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Nov 11, 2009 02:33
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I'm installing a boost gauge in my 2009 STi and cannot for the life of me find reliable info about wiring. It's a mechanical boost gauge with different daytime and nighttime lighting configurations, so I need power (always on) and power when just the headlights are on. Does anyone know a good resource for wiring diagrams? The closest I found is a Picasa web album from a 2008 STi, but the fuse boxes are amazingly different between 2008 and 2009 STIs. Link to the 08 info: http://picasaweb.google.com.au/rgv250/GaugeInstall2008WRXSTI I'd love to be pointed in the right direction. Thanks Edit: I figured it out. I used some of the info from the 2008 link above and some guessing and it worked out. The directions posted on scoobymods.com were absolutely worthless and very misleading, so I took pictures of the whole process which I'm putting into a vFAQ type walkthrough. Hopefully other people will get some use out of it. BoostCreep fucked around with this message at 03:37 on Jan 4, 2010 |
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Jan 3, 2010 23:33
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jamal posted:there was a big evo meet yesterday that I went to. Pulling into the parking lot to set up our vendor area I got a lot of nasty looks and even heard someone yell "get the gently caress out of here." It was pretty funny. Which is why I had no problem getting out of the Evo crowd. The Mitsubishi fanboys were very cool and down to earth when it was just DSMs, but once the Evo came out everyone grew an ego and became instant assholes. I've met more Subaru guys on the road just waving and talking at stoplights in the past 3 months that I've owned my STi than I have since buying an Evo 8 in 2003. So far the Suby fanboys have been great. I'm very happy with the switch.
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Jan 27, 2010 01:18
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Cuntpunch posted:Getting a slightly weird, but minor, electrical quirk in my '09 2.5i: I thought the same thing was happening with my '09 STi. I realized it only happens when you shift in reverse and that it is a feature. I felt kinda stupid. It happens when you shift into reverse, not just when you are actually reversing, so you could be sitting in the car with your brakes on and it will be wiping all the time as long as the shifter is in reverse.
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Feb 11, 2010 22:49
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get out posted:c/n: You will not be happy with any of the Cobb OTS maps for very long and you'll want more power. That's an opinion. I've had the Cobb OTS stage 1 in my '09 STi for 5 months and I think it's great. I'm still not bored with it and while I am going to get a downpipe and flash to stage 2, I don't think I NEED more power. (and I spent the last decade driving a 12 second 400hp Talon and two Lancer Evolutions). It's just so cheap and easy to go stage 2, I might as well. Plus remember that Cobb comes with stage 1 and 2. So yes, you are paying $600, but you can flash to stage 1 and then go stage 2 without needing another custom tune (two for the price of 1, plus the hardware and monitoring ability). If you spent $500 for your one custom tune, what happens if you want to change it? Another $500? I completely support Cobb AP and while it will be beneficial to get a custom tune, if you don't want to spend that kind of money and want the ability to flash back to stock, valet, etc, it is a great way to go. I spent years driving my Talon and tuning on the fly with an SAFC. After having to deal with that for so long (I kinda miss it), I love the ease and drivability of the Cobb.
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Mar 18, 2010 19:43
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I have a stupid question. I want to buy a downpipe for my 09 STi. I have been looking at the Cobb and Invidia catted versions in an attempt to stay somewhat legal as far as having the same amount of cats on the car as it did from the factory. However, living in California, any aftermarket downpipe is not CARB approved regardless of how many cats it has. So, does it make sense just to get a much cheaper catless downpipe instead? Either way if a cop notices the aftermarket downpipe I assume I would get sent to a ref anyway right? It sounds really dumb, but I've held off on buying this stupid thing for months while trying to make this decision. I really miss modifying cars in MD where I just ripped all of the emissions equipment, vacuum lines, charcoal canister, and cat off the car and still passed with flying colors.
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Apr 28, 2010 06:56
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Seat Safety Switch posted:If I had to guess, the catless downpipe might need to be tuned for; they do have a potential for boost creep (ha!) or spikes. The price of the tuning may eliminate any cost advantage you gain from the catless pipe. Then again, it doesn't really make sense to me to have an upgraded downpipe unless you're planning on tuning for it anyway. I should have mentioned that I already have the Cobb AP so tuning isn't a problem. I can flash to stage 2 any time (currently at stage 1), so there is no added cost. This supposedly takes care of the boost creep problems and stage 2 is designed for a downpipe, so all good there. And the price difference between catted and catless is about $300, so even with an extra tuning session it would be cheaper with the catless. And yes, in California police officers check cars that they suspect to be modified all the time. They are trained to look for bright colors under the hood and shiny pipes. I guess I'm asking because I probably won't get pulled over and inspected, but in the event that I did, either pipe would not be CARB approved. So does it matter which one is on the car? I'm interested in the catless one because of the money savings, extra performance, and the fact that new cars don't get smogged for 6 years, so I wouldn't even have to worry about it actually passing emissions for a long time.
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Apr 28, 2010 19:37
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I started the first round of real mods to my 09 STi last week (not including the AP stage 1, boost gauge, or Rally Armor flaps installed previously). I installed an Invidia catted downpipe and flashed the AccessPort to stage 2 with the 91 octane AZ/CA/NV map. I took it for a drive and immediately noticed the engine was overboosting to 21psi. (actually 21.8 according to the datalogs.) Stage 2 is designed to run 18psi, so I backed off the throttle and installed the LWG map (low wastegate duty cycle). This lowered the boost to 16psi, which was around stage 1 boost targets. So regular stage 2 overboosts by almost 4psi and LWG is 2psi under the target. Annoying. However, I think I may have not giving the ECU enough time to adjust itself and learn after being rebooted, so I might go back to the regular Stage 2 map and see if the boost lowers to 18psi. I did notice, though, that the stage 2 LWG map increased my timing advance from 10 to 16 at WOT over the regular stage 2 map, which was very noticeable on the butt dyno, and the car feels very solid and fast. The increase in torque is especially nice, both off boost and when the pedal is on the floor. The Invidia downpipe bolted right up perfectly to the factory cat-back as though it came that way from Subaru. Quality is top notch and the welds are perfect. The only thing I noticed was some rust in the bellmouth right at the divider. You can see it in the pictures below. I'm not really going to worry about it since that area is now covered in soot and carbon, but it was kind of weird seeing rust on an otherwise perfect new downpipe. Pics:  Click here for the full 800x600 image.  Click here for the full 800x600 image.  Click here for the full 800x600 image.  Click here for the full 800x600 image.  Click here for the full 800x600 image.  Click here for the full 600x800 image. I really want to throw in a better panel filter, but Cobb's manual states the following: Cobb Tuning posted:"MUST USE FACTORY INTAKE SYSTEM & FACTORY INTAKE FILTER. NO OTHER AFTERMARKET INTAKES, So, I'm going to wait until I get some more parts before doing a full tune somewhere. I just can't justify spending the money on a tune for the car for just a panel filter. Which is frustrating, because Cobb has over 120 OTS tunes for Evos including tunes for panel filters, injector sizes, fuel types, etc., while they only have 16 for the STi, which consist of stage 1, stage 1 ACN, stage 2, stage 2 ACN, valet, etc. Hopefully they decide to make a map that allows just a panel filter as that is a pretty common first mod. Though I made a post about that on their forums and didn't really get any feedback. I really miss the days of tuning my '91 Talon on backwoods country roads with an S-AFC and a palm pilot.
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May 19, 2010 23:14
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LordOfThePants posted:Pull off your intercooler and check for oil in it. What will this tell you? All subaru intercoolers have oil in them unless you specifically install a catch can or separator. My '09 with 7k miles on it has oil in the intercooler.
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May 21, 2010 23:58
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bung posted:So I backed up and drug the front fascia over a curb. One of the two tabs right under the radiator that hold it in place has broken. What type of material is the front fascia made from (09 WRX)? I'd like to get the correct type of epoxy to make the repair. Front fascias on modern cars are generally made of urethane.
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Jun 4, 2010 02:24
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Walked posted:Engine's toast; 300miles post-purchase, rad. Dealership said theyre doing a full teardown and having the Regional Manager review the claim, and said it'd be a week before I know what the story is. They already asked about abuse, and refused a loaner. Check out these threads if you haven't yet.... http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1648372 http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1695936 Early 2009 WRX's have a bearing problem or something similar that cause them to blow their engines with very low mileage. Check the build date on your car and see if it falls into the known timeframe for the issue. You can find all the info you need in those threads. By this time, SoA and most dealerships who aren't crooks know of the problem.
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Jun 22, 2010 23:15
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I sold my 09 STi in March and I've been driving a slow (but cheap and reliable) Jeep since then. I'm itching pretty badly to get back into a quick daily driver Subaru again, only this time not with a 40k price tag. I'm looking to spend less than 20k, preferably around 16k for a reliable daily driver. What I'd really like is an '07-'08 Forester Sports XT 5MT, but apparently every single one is so loved that people just won't let them go. So that means I will most likely be settling on a WRX. I've found plenty '06-'07 WRXs for sale with ~45-50k miles in the $15k range, which is fine I guess. However I've also found some '05-'07 STi's for sale in the same price range with 90,000+ miles. For those who know Subarus better than I, how terrible is the idea of getting a higher mileage STi? Will I be in for a bunch of problems? Synchros on the way out? Headgaskets ready to let loose? I know what to look for when buying these cars as far as mods and signs of abuse, and I would obviously be staying away from even the slightest sign of a modified car. But if I can find a stock '05 STi with like 90k miles, what am I getting myself into? I would be doing simple bolt-ons like downpipe, AP, etc, and the car would likely see track time, but nothing serious. My plan with the Forester/WRX would be to slowly upgrade it with parts scoured from people pawning their stock STi parts until I had something that resembled the performance of an STi. To me it's almost more fun that way, but if I can find an STi for a similar price point, I would go with that instead unless it's a super bad idea.
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Aug 20, 2011 02:07
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Oh god, should I fly across the country and drive 3,000 miles back for this? drat this obsession. They are just so rare and hard to find. Locating a manual one with decent mileage on the west coast is proving insanely difficult. If it were white I would probably already have my plane ticket in hand, but I can probably deal with the grey. I just don't know how long it will be before another pops up for sale in this condition. This is the only manual turbo Forester Sports for sale in the country for under $25k and 60k miles that I've found in the last 2 months. Which is crazy considering they were only $27k new. 2008 Forester Sports 2.5 XT Manual STi appearance package (wheels, front lip) 45,200 miles $21,988 Oh and it's Certified Pre-Owned if that matters. 
BoostCreep fucked around with this message at 23:07 on Aug 22, 2011 |
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Aug 22, 2011 23:02
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Blaise posted:Option 4: Those engines can be a crapshoot. I got lucky with an imported JDM 4G63 for an Eclipse 10 years ago. It had perfect compression and worked like a new engine, but I also was able to see it in person and hand pick the best engine out of a dozen they had. I'd be weary of buying an engine of unknown history without being able to physically check it out yourself first. At the least do your research on this JDM Engine Depot company to ensure they check out.
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Aug 29, 2011 17:46
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BoostCreep posted:
Figures that my work schedule was super light the past 2 months, and then the one day this car pops up for sale I find myself stuck in a never ending project that keeps me pulling all-nighters at work and unable to get myself out of the state. Seriously, this project should have ended a week ago and I'm still at work at 12:36am trying to finish my renders for the day. So what does this all mean? This Forester was sold well before I could even get a chance to go to the bank to start the loan process. I guess I will have to wait another couple years for one to come up for sale. Maybe next time it will only be 2,000 miles away.
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Aug 30, 2011 08:38
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Your stalling, pinging, and low power could possibly be something as simple as a bad o2 sensor. I looked back a couple pages and didn't see anything about this car, but if you just bought a 10 year old turbo car you might just want to look into freshening all the normal wear items. Fuel filter, spark plugs, wires, o2 sensors, etc. Also your fiance's Aero has a 2.5 liter which will give you much more seat of the pants feel than your 2.0.
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Aug 30, 2011 20:59
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daslog posted:What do folks think of this? I have a 4G63 sitting in my garage half assembled that I took apart myself and had machined at a professional machine shop, and I'm even dreading putting it back together. I couldn't even imagine taking someone else's half completed or disassembled project engine and even attempt to put it back together.
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Sep 2, 2011 23:10
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Does anyone happen to know a site that lists the production numbers of cars? I'm trying to find out how many 2008 Forester Sports 2.5XT's were made and can't for the life of me get an accurate number. The closest I can find is some guy on the Forester forums claiming only 500 were made with 200 being manual, but I'd obviously like a slightly more trustworthy source. I tried cars101.com, Wikipedia, and google searches and I'm coming up empty.
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Sep 8, 2011 09:17
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I also vote to just use the old one. Make sure to check for leaks when you start it up, but I highly doubt a drain plug gasket that is only a couple thousand miles old will give you problems.
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Sep 11, 2011 20:52
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Wildtortilla posted:So re-using it wouldn't be too much of an issue? My only apprehension about this is the owner's manual and the dealer both seem adamant about changing it out. It'll make a good seal even though it's already been crushed down on its initial use? If it doesn't seal, which would blow my mind, then just change it out. I think you're blowing this way out of proportion. It's not the rear main seal, it's a drain plug.
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Sep 12, 2011 01:15
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I am selling an Invidia SS Catted Downpipe in the A.I. Marketplace if anyone is interested. 2008+ WRX/STI
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Sep 15, 2011 23:03
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c355n4 posted:No '08s in the junkyard? Buddy got his spoilerless trunk for his LGT at the junkyard. Same exact color for the price he would have paid to get one painted. I wish junkyards around me had late model cars. In CA they all get sold off to shops that strip them of their parts and sell them for premium prices. Every junkyard in at least the Los Angeles area have cars from maybe the early 2000's at the latest. Most are 80's and 90's poo poo boxes that have already been stripped.
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Sep 16, 2011 19:54
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I ran cheap Sumitomo HTR+ all seasons on my Evo in the winters and did perfectly fine. It's really a matter of whether you want dedicated winter tires vs. tires you can drive on dry pavement on warmer days and still have decent performance. Winter tires will wear a lot faster than all seasons on dry pavement, but obviously give you the most security and grip in the snow. I chose all seasons because it didn't snow enough where I was in the winter to require proper winter tires and I still wanted to drive it like an Evo on dry pavement.
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Oct 10, 2011 20:08
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Rontalvos posted:I lived in central california where at 300 feet above sea level it gets down to 45 degrees in the winter. Now I live in Los Angeles. I don't need snow tires, I just wanted to know if people like the forest service recognize that a subaru has AWD and won't bitch about me not carrying chains when I drive to the ski resort a half dozen times a year. There are three "conditions" in CA that require the use of chains: Cal Trans posted:
So basically, you should always carry a set of snow chains for at least one axle at all times when going through snow in CA. Do you HAVE to? Well I've never encountered a situation where I had to have chains, but there have been several times where I was stopped while driving up to Big Bear to make sure I had them. (Though not since I have been driving my lifted Jeep 4x4 on 31" BFG AT's. They just wave me by). But if it does get to the R-3 condition, that usually means they will close the road anyway. I went to Big Bear a few years ago in a huge snow storm and the police and rangers were checking every car for chains. They pulled anyone over that didn't have them, and you either had to buy them on the spot for a LOT of money or turn around and buy them somewhere else or go home. Edit: One thing I did see which was interesting in their FAQ is this: Cal Trans posted:Are “all-weather” or “all-terrain” tires the same as “snow” tires? BoostCreep fucked around with this message at 23:00 on Oct 11, 2011 |
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Oct 11, 2011 22:57
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:Not sure what the point is when they're this easy to remove, so I guess I won't be putting them back on! The same as a Club or locking your doors. You can cut through the steering wheel or smash a window. It's just there to make a thief look for an easier target. Banging a socket onto a wheel lock will make a lot of noise late at night.
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Oct 26, 2011 07:56
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bull3964 posted:Jacking up a car to remove the wheels is going to set off the alarm anyways. 1. Not every car has an alarm. 2. Not every alarm has a motion sensor. 3. Even alarms with a motion sensor don't always get triggered unless there is huge shaking movement (like my Jeep). 4. Having to hammer a socket onto a car with a touchy motion sensor will set the alarm off well before slowly raising the vehicle to remove wheels that didn't have wheel locks. I bet someone would be slightly less inclined to continue hammering all 4 sockets on the car with an alarm blaring in their ears. bull3964 posted:If people are going to ignore an alarm going off, while someone jacks up a car and is in the process of removing wheels, I don't think anyone is going to blink twice if that person pounds on a sacrificial socket. Sure, but it will still be a pain in the rear end. You would need to have 4 sockets, and risk slowly and loudly banging on all four wheels to get them off the car. The whole point here is to make a thief look for an easier target, just like The Club or having locked doors. If two identical cars were side by side, one with locked doors and one without, guess which one is getting ripped off? Same goes if you change the scenario to one car having wheel locks and one not. bull3964 posted:That's not quite the same thing as locking your doors as someone can just causally open a door and do whatever they want inside without arousing any suspicion. How is it not the same? You are adding a minor level of protection that makes it just slightly more annoying and difficult for a thief to get around. Again, the whole point is to make a thief look for an easier target. Plus a car with an alarm is going to make it difficult to allow someone to do whatever they want without arousing suspicion. bull3964 posted:You can also buy a lock removal kit for like $40 from Amazon. And you can find a rock on the side of the road to smash a car window, but I bet you still lock your doors.
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Oct 26, 2011 23:22
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I see your point. But $40 for a set of wheel locks still seems to have more positives than negatives. The only negative I see is having to spend an extra minute per wheel using a key to get the lock off. I guess also the fact that I've had wheel locks on every car with wheels worth stealing over the past 7 years living in LA and I've never had any stolen helps make up my mind. That includes an '06 Evo SE with BBS wheels, '06 S2000, '08 Legacy Spec.B, and '09 STI. Of course I also could have just been really lucky.
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Oct 26, 2011 23:47
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Blaise posted:Got the transmission back in my WRX tonight. As I thought, improperly installed rear main seal which puked oil everywhere. I had oil on an ACT 2600 clutch with a street disc before from a rear main seal leak in a 90 GSX. I just did a couple hard launches and let the clutch slip each time. After normal driving for a few hours the oil was gone and the clutch worked perfectly fine. I don't know if that will work for the Exedy, but may be worth a try.
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Nov 3, 2011 23:19
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Slow is Fast posted:Haven't heard back Glad to see I'm not the only one going through this dilemma.
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Nov 16, 2011 21:07
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My '09 STI bumper cracked in the same place when my girlfriend at the time was driving it and hit a cat going 20mph. I was shocked that it cracked so badly from such a small impact, and it felt extremely brittle and thin even in the summer heat of Socal.
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Nov 21, 2011 23:21
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I don't know, it ran off and I couldn't find it. Hopefully it ran off to its loving kittens and a nice warm bed and not to die alone in the gutter 
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Nov 22, 2011 00:32
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blargle posted:It would be nice to find a cheap place to order some of those lovely plastic clips that hold the whole frontend of the car together. Lowe's has an automotive fastener section that is full of those things. Might get lucky there.
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Nov 22, 2011 05:36
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Does anyone know if Subaru is still having production issues after the earthquake in Japan last year? I've been trying to locate an '11 or '12 WRX in the Los Angeles area and between all 9 dealers within 100 miles of LA, there are 7 total WRXs for sale. Some dealers don't even have a single one on their lot. Plus, it seems because of the shortage, dealers are charging nearly 30 grand for base model WRXs when they should be just north of $25k. I've been lusting after a SWP WRX Limited sedan for a while, but I can't even find a limited to test drive. I guess I could just order one, but I want to take it for a spin and sit in the leather seats before plopping down the $30k. I tried to get a test drive of the base WRX at one dealership and they wouldn't let me without a "financial commitment" since it is their only one in stock. Not the best way to make a sale. I've been going back and forth between a WRX and Evo, and right now the Evo is winning purely because I can find one.
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Jan 19, 2012 03:57
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jamal posted:which dealer? I've never been much of a fan of santa monica or long beach. Friend of mine is the performance parts manager at south coast and they're usually pretty good. The one I went to was Glendale, but that's just because it's the closest and happened to have one WRX on their lot. Right now, according to their website, South Coast as zero WRXs in their inventory. That was where I bought my '09 STI three years ago. But it's the same story everywhere. There's just nothing in stock.
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Jan 19, 2012 04:43
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