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WTF, there's laws preventing you from refilling your car yourself? How loving stupid. BTW NMD, if someone fills your WRX with regular or tries to, the correct answer is stop them physically. You do NOT allow that to happen. Redline Heavy shockproof is smurf blood. Suddenly fourth gear is no longer crunching  And foudn out the reason for dodgy brakes, there was no one way valve in the booster line. Feels a lot better.And that was the sum of the STI's first maintenance after a rally. drat thing spanner checked so nicely and literally a month to go before next event it's ready to go. quote:Wait, waht? Looks like an older Impreza stuffed full of later model STI goodness.
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Mar 7, 2009 12:43
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RealKyleH posted:I will read the NASIOC FAQs about tuning more Oh god no, anything but that shithole. Seriosuly, is the worst loving Subaru forum on the planet, even Aust Rexnet is far better. Do yourself a favour and look at Scoobymods
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Mar 11, 2009 03:37
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ab0z posted:I realize that, and buying them isn't for everyone. However, if you plan to own and service your car for a long time, having documentation that you can count on 100% is worth a lot more than the purchase price. There was one linked here earlier for the 2004 STI that is very extensive and probably covers 99% of any MY01 -> MY07. http://ken-gilbert.com/wrx/STi_Manual/index.htm Might be a bit hard to work out how to access what you want, but it's proving well worth the grab.
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Mar 17, 2009 07:35
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ab0z posted:I just talked to my friend that has owned and tuned more STIs than I can remember, he said for the diff you MOST DEFINITELY should use subaru fluid, for the trans use the appropriate weight and viscosity gear oil of decent quality, synthetic not required. Does he actually realise ALL name brand fluids are just some poo poo like Castrol or Valvoline rebranded, depending on who Subary have a deal with for supply? There is no special elf blood injected that makes slapping a Subaru sticker on a container automatically better. If you want smurf blood for a 6mt, Redline Shockproof Heavy is it. Very noticable difference from the Penrite synth that was in it. Fourth gear suddenly likes to behave. Also much better when the gearbox is hot and your going like hell.
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Mar 18, 2009 01:55
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atomicfire posted:If you want the WRX, I would suggest the 4EAT automatic <flamesuit> You need more than a flamesuit, laddie. Driving a auto WRX is a truly awful experience.
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Mar 30, 2009 07:45
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Lando posted:Check ebay. Theres one specific company that is making CF hoods <ugh so tacky> for a pretty good price. They also do a 'you cant destroy it' video that is on their ad. They put some kind of flammable fluid on it, then set it on fire. Smack it with a hammer numerous times, jump up and down on it, and a few other harsh things. Not even a scratch. Most carbon fibre bonnets aren't actually full carbon fibre - the real deal is much more expensive than a standard bonnet for one and two, the EBay ones are in fact a layer of CF over fibreglass, which is why they weigh more than standard. And why they are cheap.
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Apr 2, 2009 22:49
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dayman posted:This. Put a sticker over the standard item, no one will know the difference
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Apr 2, 2009 23:33
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dayman posted:That's essentially what they are anyway, like you mentioned in your post. Oh yes please!
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Apr 3, 2009 00:37
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Does anyone have ANY knowledge of DMS 50mm rally suspension on a Subaru? Yeah sure the diffs and power are great but I'm coming to the conclusion I got some major suspension tuning to do - the ride heights are wrong and the rebound / compression are hosed up too. The last owner had it set up a hell of a lot different to hw I like cars. I be thinking the fantastic diff setups have been hiding a few narky issues that I now need to work out and fix. Actually does anyone know a good setup for dirt at all for these things? I am seeing a range of settings that have me WTF'ed and one or two rear end backwards to what I would think would work. I'm also not entirely convinced I have the front track right, it seems to be too narrow by about 2 cm. What is the best way to get more track without wheel spacers on an STI - change hubs? Different control arms? Also need to increase castor big time. I suppose I could bend over and get a wallet reaming with a set of Proflex and be done with it..... 50 mm DMS doesnt seem to be all that poo poo hot and they have bump stop issues.
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Apr 13, 2009 12:27
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Whoa jamal, is that a real 22B? I didn't realize there were any in North America. a) No LHD ones were built as far as I know - a few were converted b) This is a real 22b -     It's not *quite* as wide and a few things are different. There is a bodykit that looks like that one. I can still be a 22B - but a dead stocker is worth considerably more than one that's been changed and modified.
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May 9, 2009 01:04
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Does anyone know engine / turbo specs of the 07 Spec C?
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May 9, 2009 10:28
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jamal posted:I think it has a twin scroll VF37, and possibly dual avcs. Also a one piece intake manifold, semi-closed deck, forged pistons etc. What specifically did you want to know about it? The manifold is probably the biggest special thing over the regular ver8 sti. On the other hand I'm not really familiar with the non-us models. I'm specifically looking for specs on the N12 homologation. Around about August my car is about to get a rather major pull down and conversion job done - unfortunately for Group N you need to have everything exactly right.
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May 10, 2009 00:29
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Eugene Debs posted:I just found out that Tirerack has H&R Coilovers for sale. Are they any good? Why do you want coil overs for? You can do a lot with normal struts. And I would point out that cheap coil overs are NOT better than say a simple Bilstein insert with uprated springs. You need to view entry level coil overs as something like DMS 50mm - then you really do get something you cant really do with a Bilstein insert. Yes that is $$$$$$$ but then again, coilovers are only really for getting the absolute most out of your suspension. And you really should be not wastign your time or money on cheaper poo poo - a set of good King Springs and Bilsteins, you'll love the real gains.
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May 12, 2009 23:11
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RealKyleH posted:You people wanting to disable ABS is pretty Yeah, and? Even the 06 ABS loving sucks and tried to kill me. I've had instances of the 04 Forester's ABS literally spit me through an intersection all because it was some light gravel on the road - and on a shitbox Excel without ABS, no problem stopping. Oh and there was the time that the ABS spat the 06 mega sideways when a wheel lifted. AND the guy I know who was thrown off the track when his ABS freaked out. Blow the ABS fuse, call it a day. Okay, just need a fact check. Did the 02 / 03 STI's come with mechanical front / rear diffs?
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May 27, 2009 00:46
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jamal posted:hellaflush yo: Who was the dickhead who thought that was a good idea?
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Jun 10, 2009 09:52
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 My brakes breaked 
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Jun 23, 2009 12:09
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TurboLuvah posted:Well it's either his STI or the 06 Impreza, at first I thought it was the STI as it looks like it's been through some dirt rally stage, but they're not Brembos, so I don't know. It's four pot WRX brakes on the STI as the Brembos dont fit under rally wheels. The next picture I'll post will explain it all - but basically aluminium control arms have a finite rally service life and fail unexpectantly and at the worst time -_-
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Jun 24, 2009 00:59
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Does anyone have a list of the diff ratios availible of the GD series STI's? Wouldnt mind the LSD types as well
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Jun 30, 2009 12:13
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Anyone have a good tech document on the Suretrak LSDs? I'm trying to work out if my handling issues are to do with the diffs beign snatchy or I have some other issue.
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Jul 5, 2009 12:19
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The Goon posted:I'm a little torn here. I really want a new model style Impreza, but don't have the cash to drop the $25k you'd need on a base sedan or hatchback (up in Canada). Rental? VERY dubious I would be. Shitheads like to hire cars and not give a gently caress for them.
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Jul 7, 2009 04:20
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beastathon posted:Well I think I've got something a little different. Sure it's not as powerful as a WRX, but a 655c motor is big enough. There's still a Sherpa on the road?. I used to drive one years ago as an office runabout. Sorry to be a h0rrible jerk, but the Sherpa is one FOUL piece of poo poo - That's one Subaru you couldnt pay me to drive. Runs on the smell of an oily rag is true... but gently caress me drunk, what an appalling handling car with the most ridiculous brakes, foul gearbox and gutless motor. Good thing the first Liberty RS was just around the corner and Subaru leaned how to make good cars. Still, would be amusing to do a back to back test vs a WRX.
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Jul 14, 2009 01:26
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Removing the front sway bar for gravel had rather unexpected results. HOLY gently caress WHY THE HELL DIDNT I DO THIS SOONER?????? That just turned a car I've been wrestling with into a real handling weapon. Beautiful turn in, beautiful balance, lots of good weight shift.... perfect. How easy and how goddamn good! Also, RS GC's with the 2.5 in rally trim really are quite amazingly quick and good handling. Also looking to reduce the rear sway bar as well after that. Is there such a thing as a 17mm sway bar that will fit to the rear of a GDE?
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Jul 19, 2009 12:45
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jamal posted:only sti rear swaybars fit because of the lateral links. Piece of piss for us to fit then. We can engineer ANYTHING   Im now seriously considering doing a vinyl wrap to replicate the mess cause it looks brilliant
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Jul 21, 2009 10:18
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nm posted:So why do the aussies like subaru so much? Because they dont suck and are decent to drive?
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Aug 9, 2009 12:26
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Cuntpunch posted:Today was the first day since I bought my 2009 5-door Impreza 2.5i that it rained hard enough for me to consider the road at least somewhat tricky. So I took the long way home and attempted to get VDC to turn on, even for a second, because I really didn't believe it even possible. Throw me the keys for a few minutes. The VDC wont know WTF hit it. Neither will your lunch.
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Aug 19, 2009 12:19
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"[ELP posted:"] Dont waste your time - if you want an extingusher, grab a 2 or 3 kg handheld, not a 1 kg. Pity Halon is banned tho, they are extremely effective. A firebomb is more to give you time to GTFO of a burning car in a crash and to slow a fire right down, they dont put fires out real well unless the nozzles do actually cover the area of the fire and even then, they may not be effective. Also, a good kill switch will be very effective in guarentteeing the electricals stay off and the pumps are cut. Me, I have a firebomb in the rally car, but I also mount 2 * 1 kg handhelds, soon to become 2*2kg handhelds. If you notice videos of buring rally cars, they all had firebombs. Oh yes, and I have been the victim of a fire extingusher failure to work - ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS maintain your extingushers - tested every year, every three months give them a good shake, replace or full test every two years. And also, make sure you actually know how to use the extingusher, there's more to it than point, shoot and hope. I recommend buy a 1kg as they are cheap, go to a open space at night and use it as if there was a fire there.
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Aug 26, 2009 23:46
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Qapf posted:5 speed. With 11k on the clock. They have decided to blame it on "leaving my hand on the gearshift after changing into gear". So what they are doing is saying the gearbox is capable of being overshifted, a problem Mazda gearboxes used to have ..... 20 years ago. The gates just shouldnt allow the forks to be overshifted and put pressure on the bearings / synchos. If this can happen... guess who's really at fault? So, it used to be true. It shouldnt be anymore. I smell BS and frankly Subaru like blaming drivers for issues the driver has nothign to do with.
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Aug 28, 2009 00:12
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69sofine posted:How easy is really easy? I thought stealing any car was just a matter of hotwiring it. No. Not with modern immobilisers and key recognisers. A good security system will probably mean that at the least you do an ECU change. Frankly most cars are stolen by flatbeds by pros. A turbo timer does indeed bypass every singe bit of security and makes the car a piece of piss to take by hotwiring. A Turbo timer is one of the most loving stupid ricer bits of bullshit, especially with Subarus as they have a top tank that keeps water circulating in the turbo and cooling it even with the engine off. At the most after hard run, you might need to idle down for a minute or just do an idle down. And frankly if you cant stay in your car for a minute....... what, rushing for sex with Denise Milani and she wont put out if you dont run through the door???? The best way to cool down hot parts is to keep airflow going, so drive at a slow speed for a minute or so for the edge of the temperature to be removed. Turbo timers are simply smart people seperating money from dumb people. And the other point would be,.... what on earth would you be doing driving that hard of the street you would need a turbo timer for?????
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Aug 31, 2009 03:19
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RealKyleH posted:If you have a just oiled cooled turbo like almost all of the Chinese turbos and a lot of JY turbos will be and want to get out of your car at the end of driving it then yes absolutely. I think the complaints about them made thus far are rather subaru specific. To imply that they don't have perfectly reasonable uses is sorta ridiculous. I'm not implying. I am saying it straight out and it's not ridculous - useless and dont waste your money. So when exactly was the last oil only turbo on a production car? That would be quite some time ago. And if you do have a oil only turbo, idle it down properly so you dont have to sit. How many times do you have a red hot blast and then shut down? The other thing is there is a real safety issue in a crash. The likelihood of not then being able to shut a fuel pump down in the event of a fire is real. The last time I saw a oil only turbo was on cars older than my VR4 - which already had water cooling and only got an idle down in an event. Unless you are doign some drag racing, why the gently caress would you remove water cooling? So I will say again, dont waste your time and money on a piece of poo poo that does exactly nothing and has a bunch of downslides.
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Aug 31, 2009 10:24
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nm posted:
I'll dispute that, but I'll reply in detail later tonight why.
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Sep 15, 2009 07:56
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nm posted:I won't disagree that it is hard on the car, but with the exception of a (63?) corvette losing a wheel, highly modified cars failing, and random failures (also, DSMs), I've not seen a huge number of auto-x related failures. Even tho the STI doesnt get out anywhere near as often as the VR4 did (yet), I'll report wheel bearing are giving me some grief (not uncommon) and I've had a set of pads and rotors trashed. Now granted I drive a HELL of a lot harder than even the average autocrosser, the WRX on the other hand is showing some accelerated wear issues with - 1) Rear diff has blown a seal 2) Center diff is definatly on the way out 3) Rear diff is also showing some signs of gently caress this I'm outta here - both are VLSD's which arent really that flash for extended hard driving 4) Shocks will be replaced v.soon 5) Front brakes - trashed Enough that I have a three year old car off the road and about to do a major overhaul. This is also a car that literally does 95% of it's kms cruising at 110kph. The other 5% it gets a right belting.... Wear and tear is pretty much as hard as you drive it is true. But racing WILL accelerate wear and tear.
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Sep 15, 2009 10:16
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bull3964 posted:Can someone with greater search fu than me figure out what the part number is for the belt adjusting bolt that attaches to the alternator mounting bracket. This is the bolt you tighten to move the alternator up and down to adjust the belt tension. For the life of me I can't find it. https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/ This might help you out some.
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Sep 29, 2009 10:13
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Does anyone know where I can get a SpecC roof + roof vent from???? I need a load of OEM parts and not reproductions for the assrape that is Group N.
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Sep 29, 2009 12:26
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kimbo305 posted:I can't imagine the 300lbs makes up for the power difference. Maybe it is nimbler. But yeah with some judicious shifting into tighter corners you should be able to keep revs into the 4000s. Not that I can talk; I stalled 3 times on my first runs out. The ONLY Subaru to ever beat me on dirt is an RS 2.5 (and I have never beaten it, despite my best efforts). The throttle response and lack of weight really do make a huge difference - they are very nimble, the 2.5 gives you a handy amount of power, the AWD is 50:50 - which is actually better than the 35:65 or 41:59 of the STI on dirt. And better weight balance, the 20+ kgs less over the nose does make a difference. An RS 2.5 really is a drat good thing.
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Oct 30, 2009 23:02
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Vladimir Putin posted:It's non-turbo, but I read somewhere that you should do your first oil change after you break in your engine at about 3K miles. Is this true? Yes, this is correct.
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Nov 15, 2009 06:31
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This'll be fun - the rear wheel bearing quite suddenly failed. Hey look at the wheels wobble! Anyone got a normal procedure to change these thigns and what else should be exchanged while I'm at it?
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Dec 5, 2009 08:16
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So, standard procedure, nothing special. Just making sure and next weekend looks tl be a messy one.... rallycars are nasty to get under
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Dec 6, 2009 11:27
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OKay, I'm hosed if I can understand this one Took the back end of te STI apart to get quite a surprise - a) There's a R160 there and it appears to not be a VLSD or open. Very odd. Also got a load of bits from other cars like the 04 RS. I'm not sure wether it's a brilliant way to keep costs down or a cock up by previous owner. b) The SO's WRX was used to compare to work out WTF was going on and.... it's a bog standard 07 WRX with a R180 and STI driveshafts. I thought the WRX only came with a R160....???? The 07 has NOT been driveline modified so it did come from the factory like that. I'd like to understand how an R180 got into the WRX from the showroom
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Jan 1, 2010 07:23
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TurboLuvah posted:20 more horsepower than a factory car? Cage, suspension, full race interior? For only $195k? Hate to break it to you but a full blown Group N car at PWRC spec has this... - Six speed dog box made of Prodrive machines unobtainium, worth 30K - BIG PWRC race brake package, worth 20K - Roll cage, which isnt even ones you get from a normal cage builder, material worth is close to 10K, let alone the fabrication time - Carbon fibre interior trims. - SpecC Group N homologation base car - add 20K more to accquisition cost - Wheels are worth 500 each without the rubber - Underbody protection, a mix of urathane, kevlar and aluminium, upwards of 5K (I'm up to 87K worth of equipment so far...) - Horsepower might only be a touch up, but it has a 33mm restrictor so I am staggered they managed that miricle. Torque is closer to 500 Nm and the engine is rebuilt and blueprinted. - Prodrive ECU's / dash and diff control systems. Got a telephone number, that's your price. To develop the tunes for the drivelines and engine costs thousands even with el-cheapo backyarders. This isnt a backyarder,this is the best in the business. So hardware MINIMUM is 10K - Prodrive quality suspension. Think Reiger or Proflex/MCA and then go a step UP. Penske suspensions are piles of poo poo in comparision. This kind of gear begins at 5K a corner, so minimum of 20K - Full Coralba rally computer. 2.5K - And I havent included seats, intercom, harness, hydralic handbrake, spares and tools, jack and stand mount points, painting and the special Group N homologated parts. I'm up to 120K so far and I havent even run into build labor time. If you expect to have Prodrive to build, install and make good all of this for under 20K, you are having yourself on. It is highly unlikely you could build a PWRC car of this level for less than 200K. This is in fact pretty good value for a turnkey car that would be an outright Group N competitor and about right price. CAT INTERCEPTOR fucked around with this message at 23:34 on Jan 23, 2010 |
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Jan 23, 2010 23:30
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kimbo305 posted:You don't necessarily need swaybars to do well in rallycross or rally driving in general. But I don't know that's what you were saying. You dont need sway bars at ALL for gravel. The front on my car waves like a dick in the wind (needs to be there for the rules, but a link is disconnected) and the rear is the smallest bar possible. Despite being not the most powerful car out there, it tends to win. We're batting 4th, 1st, 2nd, 1st, 1st and leading before a driver wrong direction. quote:a bigger rear bar helps for rallyx, especially in a low-power car. I'm turning my rear bar to full stiff before the next event. As it is, a little braking on turn in gets the car to go sideways pretty well, but under power it pushes unless I can get enough wheelspin. Soften the front up, reducing grip on the rear is simply covering the real problem. Your car is not weight shifting right - wheel spin a symtom of it. Either that or if you have coilovers, raise the rear a few mm. And also use the Latvala school of handling thought. Throw it in harder.
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Feb 9, 2010 01:14
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