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Is this a bad idea? How much does poo poo tend to fall apart on these after 200,000? http://nh.craigslist.org/cto/4382529583.html Edit for when this expires: 2005 Outback XT, 5-speed, 198K, $3900 
i own every Bionicle fucked around with this message at 21:11 on Mar 19, 2014 |
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Mar 19, 2014 21:08
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Regarding the Outback XT: Thanks. I am really looking for a WRX wagon and will save for a while until I can afford what I want at lower miles but this caught my eye.
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Mar 19, 2014 21:20
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UhgMEi5aqmY
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Mar 21, 2014 15:29
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2000 Legacy Wagon, 5MT, 141K. I am getting a whirring noise that sounds like it is coming from the back of the car at speeds above ~20 mph. It sounds a lot like tire noise from big blocky offroad tires. It does not change with load; putting in the clutch or pulsing the throttle has no effect. I am thinking wheel bearing? It just doesn't sound like any bad wheel bearing I have heard before, those usually go womwomwom and this is like rrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr.
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Apr 10, 2014 13:21
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Yakattak posted:Sounds like my transfer case/center diff bearing destruction. Can you get under the car while it's going with a stethoscope?  I could probably put it up on jackstands and do that. What should I listen for? The same noise coming from the transfer case?
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Apr 10, 2014 21:04
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8ender posted:I'm dealing with a wheel bearing that got smoked by a pothole on my Audi right now and it sounds just like that. I found that while hooning hard to the right the noise gets quite a bit quieter, so it must be a wheel bearing. Thanks! Glad it's not the center diff.
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Apr 11, 2014 02:27
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I think just bulbs. They have just gotten dangerously dim, I didn't realize how bad they were until I had to go up into the mountains a couple nights ago. It sounds like they are glazed over, my Legacy needs them buffed about once a year. You can get a kit from any auto parts store that has sandpaper and a compound in it...you wet sand the glaze away and then use the compound to buff it out. It makes a huge difference. i own every Bionicle fucked around with this message at 18:55 on Jan 10, 2015 |
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Jan 10, 2015 18:52
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Greetings sisters, I looked at a 2004 WRX wagon today. It's very low mileage (~76,000) and the body is in great shape and the price is very good. However, there were a few things that seemed like red flags to me, and I'd love a little bit of input before I pull the trigger. At the price I don't mind putting a bit of money into it to fix stuff, but if it's been modified I want to run away. Unfortunately this is the first WRX I've driven so I wasn't totally prepared for what to expect. If it makes any difference, I am currently driving a 2000 Liberty. -Rough idle. The throttle response is fine and it's smooth at speed, but the idle is very rough and shaky. -Low beams don't work...when you are out of high beam, the lights shut off. Not sure if this is something stupid or a disaster. Here are the things that I don't know if they are normal or red flags: -The ride is very stiff. Not like bump stops stiff, but stiffer than any other Impreza I've been in. -It seems a bit lower than normal. I'm not sure if my eyes are playing tricks on me because of the side skirts and the snow. -There is some clunking from the back when going over bumps which is surprising for the low mileage. Combined with the stiff ride and the stance, I was concerned that it might have been lowered. -The clutch is very stiff and short compared to most other things I have driven. It was very drivable and I don't mind it at all, but I don't know if the stock one feels like that. An aftermarket clutch seems like a red flag to me. -The shifter throw is also very short and tight, which I liked, but I'm not sure if it's that's normal at all or a red flag. Unfortunately I could only drive it in the snow so I couldn't get a feel for the handling or the power. Picture for reference:  This thing won't last long; someone else is probably going to buy it tomorrow morning unless I can snatch it up. Any input I could get would be awesome. Edit: goddamn tables
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Feb 22, 2015 00:56
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Thanks for the advice guys. WRT to my other questions: is it normal to have the really short and stiff clutch? Does it seem like it has been lowered to other people as well?
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Feb 22, 2015 05:06
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Thanks for the advice on the WRX guys. If it was still for sale today, I would have lowballed the guy for it a bit, then fixed it for a while until spring and made it my DD. As it turns out, somebody else bought it, so I'll keep looking or wait until I can buy a new one (if they ever make a WRX hatch again).
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Feb 22, 2015 21:27
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I'm going to look at this tonight: http://nh.craigslist.org/cto/4911066784.html I see the red flags (exhaust, boost gauge, younger owner) but it's an 07 and the price is very good. I have a somewhat reliable daily and a place to do some work on it (small repairs and likely different exhaust). Is there anything in particular I should look for?
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Mar 1, 2015 18:08
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nm posted:Do a leak down. A compression test is not a leak down. Ringland failure can be hidden. The car can run fine and even have OK compression. Awesome, thanks.
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Mar 1, 2015 21:39
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I looked at this today: http://www.aeromotorcars.com/2007_Subaru_Forester_Norwell_MA_253725137.veh It's below book value and the seller knows what it is and is not flexible on price at all, which is fair. There was some road and wind noise, the brake pedal felt soft and stopping power in general wasn't great. Is that normal? Besides that I loved the way it drove, good power and it handled well for a CUV. It has just had head gaskets and valve guides done, coolant lines all replaced, and turbo checked (CARFAX says it's been checked, dealer said it was replaced). All other maintenance is up to date for the mileage (timing belt, etc). Is it totally stupid to buy this without a compression and leakdown test performed, or is that something that's only a necessity for a tuned car or for years prone to lovely factory tunes? I am a bit worried that the headgaskets and turbo maintenance were the PO throwing money at an oil use problem that could have been ringlands. I checked for other signs like oily gunk on the tail pipe (there was some black exhaust soot only) and smoke coming out of oil filler after driving it and didn't see anything. I know the mileage is high and I don't mind putting some money into it to keep it running well and have the car I want. Comedy option: https://nh.craigslist.org/cto/4996797918.html
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Apr 26, 2015 19:35
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Thanks for the info guys, I was wondering why there was so much wind noise on my Legacy. Any opinions on the leakdown test on the Forester?
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Apr 27, 2015 14:15
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22 Eargesplitten posted:The issues are minimal on those things. You want to keep up on oil changes, because they spray small amounts of oil on the timing chain to keep it lubricated. There are no head gasket problems like the 2.5s, though. I remember one semi-common problem, but I can't remember what it was, somebody else might be able to fill in for me. I remember it being outside of the engine though, so it doesn't require tear-down like the head gaskets on the 2.5. I was planning on getting one, and might still at some point, when I'm looking for a new car. I haven't ridden in one, so the AC might be completely different, but my AC is great in my '99 Outback Sport. We don't get 110 days like Houston does, but it can make me uncomfortably cool when it's 90 out. And that's after going on 6 years of owning it with no recharge, and I have no idea how long it was since the PO recharged it. Just make sure to have it on recirculate, obviously. My mom has one of those and the engine in it has been pretty drat rock solid. It has been somewhat plagued with weird electrical bullshit though...locks not working, lights staying on, etc. It has gone through some rear suspension bits and also gone through brakes quickly. It hasn't been anything heartbraking, but not a perfect car. As far as I can remember, timing chains and timing chain guides can be compromised if the oil is not kept fresh and topped off, so keep up with that. Also, gas mileage is going to kind of suck with it. It's a big engine in a big wagon with an automatic. It's a great feeling engine though. Torquey and just silky electric smooth. It makes the 2.5 feel like a tractor. i own every Bionicle fucked around with this message at 13:14 on Jun 14, 2015 |
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Jun 14, 2015 13:12
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si posted:As someone with a 2009 spec.B with a bad bearing sitting in the garage, I concur. 05 LGT Wagon in the shop, having the heads/valves done. Oh well, I got it cheap enough that I can put some money into it.
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Jun 23, 2015 02:35
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Spicy Guacamole posted:It's still a WRX. I think you're lowballing yourself by a wide margin by aiming for $5k, regardless of the condition. Take a look at what others are asking near you on Craigslist, eBay, etc. The auto probably really hurts the price but I think you are right based on everything I have seen. I worked at a place right next to a guy who sold specialty used cars and talked with him about used WRX prices all the time...he said that any running WRX, no matter how hosed up, will always bring at least $5,000.
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Jul 11, 2015 18:27
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So I am at a bit of a crossroads with my 05 LGT wagon with 130,000. I bought it for a song due to a misfire and took a chance on it, as it did not use oil and had no oil in the exhaust, I guessed that the ring lands were OK. It turned out they were and it needed a valve job (after trying injectors, coils, and plugs). With that done, the car is now running pretty well and I really enjoy it. However, it has a KN typhoon stupid rear end intake on it. It sounds nice but since the car isn't tuned for it it stumbles sometimes on acceleration. I'm concerned that the PO put the intake on, ran it for a while and it was lean, and that burnt the valve. Now, I'm looking for suggestions on where to go from here. Should I just get a stock intake and be done with it? I didn't see Cobb maps anywhere for this intake, so would I be wasting my time getting an accessport and trying OTS maps? Should I go hog wild and get a different intake, AP, and maybe a downpipe? Get an AP and have it pro tuned? Get a tactrix cable and have it pro tuned with that? I do plan on getting a vf46 for improved reliability (the vf40 has had the filter removed). I'd also like a What I'm looking for is a somewhat reliable DD that is fun and a little quicker than stock, if possible. Not planning on doing track or autocross, just the occasional blast on an on-ramp and some backroads fun.
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Oct 5, 2015 18:15
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If super glue doesn't work: Left hand drill bit Or JB weld a cheap rear end screwdriver on, let it cure, back the ho out
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Oct 20, 2015 14:41
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Guinness posted:Hey Subaru thread, what's the lowdown on the EZ30? Generally pretty bulletproof? My mom has an 04 Outback with the EZ30 and it's a cool engine. They are generally very reliable but not keeping up with oil changes will gently caress up the timing chain tensioner. Other people complain about the belt tensioner as well (hers went too) but that's pretty minor. Don't expect great mileage on it but it has good power and is silky smooth. Very nice engine.
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Nov 30, 2015 02:44
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magnificent7 posted:Forester woes Yes, head gaskets are a common problem on that car. Read the OP for full details. Really, read the OP. An oil leak from the filter is not inconceivable but super easy to fix if it's the case. A head gasket probably won't cause an oil leak like that but it could certainly cause a coolant leak. Another likely cause of an oil leak is the valve cover gaskets...are you sure they didn't say that? That's a much easier fix than head gaskets. Unless the car is super rare (it's not a manual turbo right?) or in stellar mechanical/cosmetic shape with no rust otherwise then putting 4 grand into a 12 year old car with 200k on it sounds like a bad idea. Honestly buying one of those used in great condition with that mileage around here should be about 3-4k tops.
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Jan 7, 2016 20:10
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Someone posted that lawsuit on a Subaru facebook page I am part of and the response was generally "people should know how to check their oil! If you can't check your oil you shouldn't own a car!  "I think they said that consumption of less than 1 qt per 1000 miles was normal. gently caress that, on brand new a commuter car in 2016 that's unacceptable.
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Jan 14, 2016 12:59
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Huh, It didn't occur to me that it could be caused or exacerbated by the thin oil.
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Jan 14, 2016 15:26
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Larrymer posted:Subaru nutters will pay top dollar for your car. I'd guess around 8-10k easily. I'd probably start it at 12k and see what offers you get. That seems very realistic to me. I was looking for a manual WRX wagon, FXT, or LGT wagon a while back and searched for about 6 months. A good FXT with a manual with less than 130,000 would bring at least 9k all day long. I test drove an 07 with 135 and wound up passing on it, but the seller would not budge from 10k. Post some pictures of it all cleaned up on CL and tumescent weirdos like me will flock to it from all over the place with cash in hand.
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Jan 26, 2016 03:31
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Your choices for fun, new, AWD cars with three pedals and some room are: 1. Overpriced 2014 WRX 2. Golf R 3. Focus RS 4. Convince yourself that you don't need a hatch like other posters are suggesting. Maybe find new hobbies that don't require a roomy car. Or cut off your balls and buy a minivan or crossover
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Feb 3, 2016 14:54
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Because they can't keep what they make in stock so why would they give a gently caress
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Feb 26, 2016 16:03
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Regarding EJ255 legacy chat: I currently have a 2005 LGT wagon that I love. It's at 140,000 and the body and interior are in great shape. I bought it for a song at 130,000 due to a burnt exhaust valve. I had that fixed, they said the pistons and cylinder walls looked great. Not sure how much I believe that but  As far as I can tell it is still on the original VF40 turbo which everybody says should have blown up by now. In order to prevent turbo failure I'd like to either replace the original turbo or have it rebuilt. Does anybody have experience with having one rebuilt, and if so, can you recommend somewhere I can send it?
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Mar 10, 2016 15:35
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McSpatula posted:Have you inspected the turbo for wear/play? Unfortunately those RHF5 turbos weren't really designed to be rebuilt, so the few specialty shops that you find with the capabilities are going to charge $texas to have the service done. I would consider having it replaced, but if you can't find one, try sixstarspeed as they've been rebuilding similar turbos for years. Thank you very much, exactly the info I was looking for. I haven't yet inspected it. I'm just looking for radial movement in the turbo shaft right? It sounds like if I want to do something about it, my options are: Have it rebuilt at 6SS for ~500 Find a used one for ~500 Buy a new one for ~1200 Buy a rebuilt EBay special for ~350 (not gonna do that) It looks like the rebuild option is the way to go even though it's more involved than a rebuild on a different turbo that was designed for that. I get basically a new turbo for the cost of a used one without having to spend weeks hunting one down.
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Mar 11, 2016 14:34
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I think that it's because they often rust to poo poo before they fail catastrophically, or at least EJ22 engined cars did, which made them seem unkillable, despite the fact that other brands with similar miles and years on them probably would have had similar repair costs at best without the rust.
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Mar 17, 2016 23:03
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Hey lesbians. Thank you for your previous sisterhood and support in pointing me in the right direction for a rebuild for the VF40 in my LG(B)T. I'm in the process of pulling it right now and it's about ready to come out (very proud of her atm) but the only thing I haven't gotten disconnected is the oil return line. How the hell do I get to it? Is it just a slip fit, can I just yank the turbo up and it will pop off, or do I need to disconnect it with more precision and subtlety?
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Mar 19, 2016 23:27
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My attempts to contact 6starspeed have been unsuccessful. I went through NASIOC and found a few reports about six months ago of people never getting their turbos back and/or not hearing anything a few months after sending them in, so they are off the table now. I can't find any good reports of other rebuild places. Does anyone have any experience with Midwest turbo connection, xboost, or PRE for turbo rebuilds? Am I wasting my time trying to have this done? Should I just pony up for a new VF40/46 or get a VF52?
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Mar 22, 2016 18:19
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jamal posted:A friend of mine does rebuilds- company is called socal porting. Think his turnaround is fairly quick and he seems to do a good job. Thanks! I'll get in contact with them. Looks like what I need and a referral from you is appreciated.
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Mar 22, 2016 19:54
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Got my VF-40 rebuilt, ported, polished, and ceramic coated by SoCal porting. Thanks for the recommendation jamal! The plan is now to put it back on my legacy with a downpipe and tune. What is a good downpipe to run, and do I need bigger injectors and fuel pump? I'm not looking for anything crazy, just a reliable and fun upgrade over stock power with the stock turbo. Any good recommendations for an open source e-tuner? i own every Bionicle fucked around with this message at 18:10 on Apr 19, 2016 |
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Apr 19, 2016 18:08
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jamal posted:I'd at least do a fuel pump, they're cheap and easy. And then invidia makes a good and reasonably priced downpipe, plus it has a 3" outlet if you end up getting a catback later on. Is the Deatschwerks a good choice, and can I get that and the Invidia DP from you?
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Apr 19, 2016 19:11
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jamal posted:Yeah the 65c, which just clips into the stock housing. When the LGT, and then 08 wrx/sti came out, installing fuel pumps was a huge pain in the rear end. Will send you a pm. Thanks! I'll plan on keeping the stock injectors and upgrading them later if need be, it is easy enough (though I do need to replace the o rings, one is leaking  )I'll look for your PM
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Apr 19, 2016 19:46
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NESguerilla posted:Yeah. I'm in sort of a rush. I should say I don't know if my pricing was too much yet it's only been up for a few hours. I was just shocked to see how low kbb estimated it and I don't want to screw myself by pricing too high. At the same time I'm hesitant to try and get rid of it for 1200 because that seems really low and I don't see any 2000 legacys going for nearly that cheap online that aren't completely trashed. I'd expect that a less than twenty year old Subaru in good running condition with nothing obviously wrong with it that's not rusty as hell would bring at least two grand.
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May 27, 2016 14:07
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the trump tutelage posted:Anything to watch out for with 2008 Subaru Outback's in general? Look for rust around the wheel wells, and that's an engine that's prone to headgasket failure. So see if that's been changed but if the price is low it probably hasn't. Check out the coolant and oil for milkiness and see if there are coolant leaks anywhere as well (which will also be signs of a failing headgasket as the system will be over pressurized. Also, another thing to keep in mind is that the car is due for a timing belt change in another 9,000 km, which is not a super cheap job, so that will also bring the price down a little bit.
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Jun 21, 2016 13:46
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The best snow vehicle is a Subaru of low book value with excellent snow tires on the front and passable snow tires on the rear
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Jun 24, 2016 00:33
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So my LGT has lost compression (60 psi) in cylinder 3 15,000 miles after a head rebuild for a burnt exhaust valve in the same cylinder. I am tingling with anticipation imagining whether the machine shop hosed up or it's pistons. 
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Jul 18, 2016 13:34
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tater_salad posted:Question for all the flannel wearers. That's considered normal by Subaru. They consider consumption under a quart per 1000 miles acceptable. How does the oil light work? Is it a level sensor, or is it the oil pressure warning light? If it's oil pressure, then that's definitely something to worry about.
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Jul 18, 2016 13:56
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