|
si posted:Way too much money. You can get a new set for around that. These are not items that retain value well in the second hand market. You don't want someone's rusty bars and worn bushings. From what I could find new sets were around $500. My wife has a 2004 wrx wagon, I have stated before, but I would like the 09 hatch to handle more like the 04. I guess I would like less body roll, a smarter feel to the way the car corners. I am open to other options, I just was told that sway bars were the best bang for the buck.
|
#
¿
Dec 16, 2013 19:00
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 21, 2024 16:48 |
|
|
Thanks again thread for giving me more to chew on. Tires and pressures seem like a good place to start. FWIW, car is just a commuter, no track plans or anything.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 16, 2013 19:56
|
|
|
Sockington posted:For what it's worth, I never touched the sway bars in my 2006 Impreza wagon and everyone who has driven it has never complained. Koni yellows, STI springs, Com-C upper mounts, ALK, and a decent alignment with some camber. My wife and I have an 04 and an 09, as of now both are stock suspension. There is a complete difference in the way the two handle. I imagine that your 06 is more similar to an 04 than a 09, or at least was until you made the changes you mention. My only goal is to make the 09 handle more like the 04. As someone already suggested, I will mess with tire pressures and maybe an alignment before making any other changes. The tires are some generic all seasons on the 09, I'd imagine that some better tires will help a lot as well, but as they are only a little over a year old, I don't want to change them yet.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 17, 2013 15:22
|
|
|
What's a fair price on a 2001 forester engine and auto transmission? Engine has at least a blown head gasket and 155k, but runs/ran when removed. I am kind of dabbling with the idea of learning to do more involved stuff with cars and wanted an engine I could practice on that does not take me to work. Is replacing head gaskets a good starter project?
|
|
#
¿
Jan 2, 2014 22:30
|
|
|
Farking Bastage posted:Yakima makes good stuff. I got the OEM bars off ebay for 160 bucks and these yakima cradles for 99. Dealership wanted 500 bucks for the same setup. That isn't salt water, is it? 
|
|
#
¿
Jan 3, 2014 03:08
|
|
|
Fudgesicko posted:I was wondering if anyone could shed some light on a fuel reading issue I'm having in my 2013 STi. My gas tank was reading around 1/4 filled last night, so I filled it up at the gas station, it took about 9 gallons. This morning, I started the car up, let it idle for a bit before I drove off and noticed that the fuel gauge needle kept on falling. It finally settled at the first notch under Full, than seemed to fall normally after that. Does anyone know if this is a freak incidence or should I take it in for service? If it is under warranty, I don't see why you would not take it in, since if there is an issue, they will fix it, assuming your still under the milage limit.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 7, 2014 15:36
|
|
|
 04 WRX wagon here. I seem to have developed some negative camber on the driver side rear wheel. From what I can tell, this is not adjustable but there are tweaks to adjust it, does that sound right? What could cause this on one side? Bad spring/shock or worn bushing or something? Car is pretty much stock at 97K. Mercury Ballistic fucked around with this message at 22:51 on Jan 26, 2014 |
|
#
¿
Jan 26, 2014 22:47
|
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:I replaced a seriously worn strut that did the same thing on my 03 Impreza wagon. Pick up some KYBs from RockAuto or Amazon. Is is probably best to go and get 4 new ones, or replace just the one. I am thinking as I want to keep the car as long as possible, do all 4?
|
|
#
¿
Jan 26, 2014 22:53
|
|
|
Four it is. Thanks for the replies everyone.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 26, 2014 23:32
|
|
|
Well I ordered 4 new struts from rock auto for my 04 wagon. I got the KYB GR2 ones. I am gonna try to tackle this on my own. Other than a spring tool, is there any weird tool I will need to procure? Is there anything other than the strut itself I should look at replacing? From what I can tell from the service manual, it is pretty simple. The car is 10 years old though, and I have no doubt some fasteners will be a bitch. I am also planning on reusing the springs unless that is a bad idea...
|
|
#
¿
Jan 27, 2014 21:34
|
|
|
Sounds doable. I have an impact, and my dad has a torque wrench, and I was planning on the advanced auto rental for the spring tool. Let's just hope the rust is not too bad. Thanks again thread!
|
|
#
¿
Jan 27, 2014 22:21
|
|
|
InitialDave posted:The only thing I'd recommend that isn't "normal" for a toolkit is if you have a hollow "vortex" socket set, so you can get a hex key down the inside to hold the strut still while you undo the main top nut. It's a good excuse to buy one. This is fantastic. Thank you!
|
|
#
¿
Jan 27, 2014 22:34
|
|
|
Well the best lessons are learned in blood or some other valuable commodity.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 27, 2014 22:47
|
|
|
Slow is Fast posted:Other things to note, you can get away with using an impact socket and vice grips with a hex wrench instead of a capless socket like pictured above. I watched some videos, this was advised to prevent going nuts getting them to line up. I'll let the thread know how it goes when I find the time to make this happen. Two working parents and a 6 month old make it tough to get time to even fix the car.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 27, 2014 22:53
|
|
|
Mercury Ballistic posted:Well I ordered 4 new struts from rock auto for my 04 wagon. I got the KYB GR2 ones. I am gonna try to tackle this on my own. Other than a spring tool, is there any weird tool I will need to procure? Is there anything other than the strut itself I should look at replacing? From what I can tell from the service manual, it is pretty simple. The car is 10 years old though, and I have no doubt some fasteners will be a bitch. I am also planning on reusing the springs unless that is a bad idea... Rock auto does not gently caress around. Basic shipping and 4 struts are delivered in 28 hrs. Must be a local warehouse.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 28, 2014 18:44
|
|
|
defiantgiant posted:So, I'm a flannel-wearing New England-living possibly-soon-to-be Subaru owner. I had an '04 Forester XT for several years and loved the poo poo out of it, and tomorrow I'm going to look at an '04 WRX wagon. It looks pretty good so far: all stock, appears essentially rust-free, 117,000 miles, water pump and timing belt done at 100k, and the head gasket was done at some point (which is strange, since I didn't think the 2-liters were known for head gasket problems.) People tell me the uppipe cat can fail on the 02-04 or 05s and murder the turbo. People tend to swap in a catless uppipe at some point. In other news, I have swapped out my rear struts. I was amazed that I got the bolts out with just some PB and some grunting after 10 years. Tomorrow morning, the fronts! Monday, an alignment. Mercury Ballistic fucked around with this message at 02:31 on Feb 1, 2014 |
|
#
¿
Feb 1, 2014 02:29
|
|
|
I got all 4 new struts on my 04 wrx wagon. It was pretty straightforward. My impact helped a lot getting the old struts off the springs. I had some issues figuring out if the spring compressors I borrowed were compressing the spring enough to let me remove the tophat. I got it all off, no issues in the end though. I still have the same negative camber on the rears though, with the left wheel much more than the right. I know some negative is correct, but at this point I am hoping the guy doing my alignment on monday will know a trick or two. At least the car should handle a little better now. Thanks thread for the help and advice.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 2, 2014 00:42
|
|
|
Next project, timing belt replacement. Is the Gates TCK328 kit on amazon with the Gates 43513 water pump the standard people get for a 04 WRX? My understanding is to get a proper gasket from the dealer for the pump, and use the rest of the Gates stuff, sound right?
|
|
#
¿
Feb 6, 2014 01:54
|
|
|
Terrible Robot posted:Don't forget to do the idler pulleys while you are in there, it's cheap insurance against your new timing belt being taken out by a bearing grenade like what happened to me (thanks, PO). Yeah, the kit should come with pulleys and a new tensioner.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 6, 2014 02:01
|
|
|
How do you know if there is an oil cooler present? Order both and return the one you do not use?
|
|
#
¿
Feb 6, 2014 10:27
|
|
|
I just picked up a (used 2006 wrx OEM) uppipe as well, and was wondering if I need to keep on the heat shield or not? All the aftermarket ones like here seem to come sans heat shield. I don't want a fire or melted stuff under the hood.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 11, 2014 22:16
|
|
|
http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Gates-TCKWP328-Timing-Belt-Kit-w-Water-Pump Getting ready to attempt the timing belt on my 04 wrx. Is this the kit I need? I looked under the car as instructed in this thread and saw three hoses all about the same size going into the water pump. Two on one side, and one one the other. I searched for the same kit by part number on amazon, but their pic has only two fittings on the water pump pic. The price on the one in this link is like $100 higher, so I would rather go with amazon if I can, but I don't want to be elbow deep in the job and find out I have the wrong part.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 16, 2014 23:53
|
|
|
At least you know who did it and hopefully their insurance will be taking care of it.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 18, 2014 21:57
|
|
|
I am about to attempt the timing belt and water pump jon on my 04 wrx. I have new Subaru Coolant, a Subaru water pump gasket, and the Gates kit on hand. Gonna have the wife park the car tonite, and after work tomorrow get started. I printed out the meatys guide off NASIOC and I not afraid to admit am more than a little nervous. Any last words of wisdom from anyone? Do I use the gasket with any sealant or just dry?
|
|
#
¿
Apr 23, 2014 20:40
|
|
|
So far so good on the timing belt swap. After work yesterday I got everything off ok, swapped out all the idlers and got off the old water pump. I did not think to get a thermostat, so today I got one, and checked it in a pot of water at about 175-180F it opened up so I guess it is ok. When I install it, do I need to use sealant on it, or just the housing/coolant line bit with the two bolts? After the thermostat, it's install the new belt and put it all back together. Thanks SA so far for the help and advice. The only part I broke so far was one of the air intake bolts. It sheared off with just a screwdriver. Oh well.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 25, 2014 21:48
|
|
|
Well I finished my timing belt job on my wifes 2004 wrx wagon. Water pump gave me some trouble with the hose clamps and I had to go get a thermostat. The gates kit came with a red plastic timing belt guide spacer gauge which was helpful with the timing guides, especially the ones on the bottom. Getting the belt on alone was a little frustrating and counting teeth and checking the timing alignment marks with a dental mirror was interesting. The video of someone (Jamal maybe) doing the install in a minute or so gave me some inspiration. Everything went back together fine and I torqued all the fasteners to the indicated specs. Added coolant with no issues and went for a drive. Car got to temp and stayed there, car ran well with no scary noises either. I will drive it tomorrow to be sure no leaks show up and strand the wife on her commute. Anyway, thanks thread for the motivation and guidance to help make it happen. I saved myself a bunch of cash doing it at home.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 27, 2014 23:39
|
|
|
Thorpe posted:I've done a few things to my car in the past week and would like to catalog them here, mostly for shits and giggles. Also because forums like NASIOC scare me. Sorry to go back here, but what year head unit is this? What year wrx? I have a 2009 wrx and I would love to swap out the base head unit for one like this. I see on ebay lots of 2012 units. Anyone know if they are cross compatible or where I could find out what is?
|
|
#
¿
May 13, 2014 22:16
|
|
|
Guys some people have longer torsos or legs than others, so just cause you have the same overall height, you may still have issues with head clearance or leg room.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 26, 2014 20:52
|
|
|
I am pretty sure it has been asked, but here we go again... My 04 WRX just had the front right CV axle boot tear and fling nasty grease all over the engine bay. It stinks nice and good and I assume the normal course of action is a new CV axle assembly. Is there a preferred brand I should get other than whatever rockauto tells me? OEM? Jamal? Also, I am gonna guess that if I do one/get one done, I should probably do the other while I am at it as the car is at around 101K miles. How hard is this for a novice/intermediate DIY guy? Any special tools other than jack stands and hand tools? I did the timing belt and struts on my own FWIW.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 28, 2014 21:29
|
|
|
Thanks for the replies guys. This car is certainly giving me a good education on diy repairs these last few years.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 29, 2014 01:15
|
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:04 WRX should have a pinned axle with stub shafts coming out of the tranny. I ordered one like you mentioned. I took a look today and both inner boots are shot, so I then ordered a second axle. I started taking off the old one and saw no pin at the transmission side. I gently pried out the cv axle and now I am looking into the transmission. Did I mess up something or are the older CV axles male on both ends? I see no pins to drift out anywhere. Anyway, it's out and nothing else has broken so far. As my wife is having her first root canal today I expect it will be tomorrow at the earliest before I can move ahead any further.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 29, 2014 20:41
|
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:Oh, my bad. Apparently an 04 WRX is male on both ends and therefore not pinned. You're splined with a circlip. The rockauto one was after 9/03 in the description and the image showed it male/male so with luck I am ok. I went to autozone and looked at what they said I needed and it was with the pin, so a no go on that front. I also bought a boot rebuild locally, but I could only find an inner boot. It seems like just doing the inner is asking for trouble in a few months in or when the outer goes. Then this guy showed up to judge my beginner repair skills. 
|
|
#
¿
Aug 29, 2014 22:50
|
|
|
Finally got the second CV axle from Rock Auto today and got it in with no real issues. I ended up removing the whole strut from the car as the pitman arm tool I bought off amazon was too small to gap the lca. With the strut out of the way the old cv axle came out of the diff with one good yank and the new one went in with a easy shove. Put all back together and drove around the block with some hard stops to reseat the brake pads and some full stop turns and whatnot. No leaks or anything and no noises so I guess this one was a win. I'll drive it to work tomorrow before giving it back to my wife just to be sure. An impact wrench made this much easier, especially with the caliper bracket and strut bolts. Totally unrelated, but the car has 101K on it and is still on the original clutch. I know at this point I can expect it to go at any time and I plan on having a shop do that work, but while they are at it, is having a catless uppipe installed a good idea while they are working on the clutch? I have a used subaru uppipe on hand already.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 4, 2014 01:24
|
|
|
So another quick question on a 2004 wrx wagon with the Cobb Stage 1 map. I hope to get the stock catted uppipe swapped to a used subaru non catted uppipe soon. Do I need to be concerned about the stage 1 being compatable/safe for a car with only the stage 1 map? Anything else I should be concerned about?
|
|
#
¿
Sep 10, 2014 20:46
|
|
|
An update for anyone who cares: I had the clutch serviced at a local shop, they do good service and I can walk there, but they are not the cheapest. Anyway, they put in a new clutch, flywheel, TOB and recommended a new rear main oil seal and something oil baffle related. Then they found the propeller shaft had bad U joints and replaced that. All told that cost "A lot of money" Edit: My mechanic was wrong. I just did some more research and took a good look and found that I do in fact have an uppipe with a temp sensor plugged in. So I guess I am back where I was when I started, but with a new clutch. Mercury Ballistic fucked around with this message at 00:02 on Sep 26, 2014 |
|
#
¿
Sep 25, 2014 20:36
|
|
|
Latest Update, my 04 wrx wagon, 2 days after picking it up after having new clutch/flywheel propeller shaft, rear main seal, etc installed, and there is a puddle of transmission oil under the car. I take a look and I can actively see it dripping. After an hour I have a 6" diameter stain in the driveway. Now I am pissed, the car was being packed for a roadtrip with the family, leaving tomorrow and instead I have to take it back to the shop and wait for them to get back on monday and explain why it is leaking. I do wonder if it could be related to my replacing both front CV axles, but that was 3 weeks ago and there was no leaks at all until I get the car back from the clutch service. Any ideas?
|
|
#
¿
Sep 28, 2014 00:32
|
|
|
Slow is Fast posted:There is a huge difference between leaking from the axle area and leaking from the tailshaft. A night and a piece of cardboard can diag that one. Either way, this is a "poo poo down the throat of whoever did the work" situation. You can continue to drive the car as long as you keep the fluids topped off. Well I did the axles, but I paid someone to do the big work. Guess I'll see who has egg on their face. Either way, it is at the shop, I'll pass on when I hear something next week.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 28, 2014 00:51
|
|
|
I know they put in new oil. Some googling suggests that overfilling can be problematic, but I don't know if that's the case cause I dropped off the car before thinking of checking the dip stick. They also put in a new cylinder, maybe that's the cause and it was fluid from there. I have a hard time telling the two apart as they both smell nasty to me.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 28, 2014 02:42
|
|
|
Mercury Ballistic posted:Latest Update, my 04 wrx wagon, 2 days after picking it up after having new clutch/flywheel propeller shaft, rear main seal, etc installed, and there is a puddle of transmission oil under the car. I take a look and I can actively see it dripping. After an hour I have a 6" diameter stain in the driveway. Now I am pissed, the car was being packed for a roadtrip with the family, leaving tomorrow and instead I have to take it back to the shop and wait for them to get back on monday and explain why it is leaking. Update again: Got back in town today, got the car back as well. It was the axle seals that were leaking. The bill was around $300 to replace the seals but the shop covered it. I fully admit that I am a novice and I replaced the axles about 3 weeks previous which a search of this thread will show. I also did not replace the seals when I did so, but I also know that there was not a drop of leaking oil until the clutch was serviced and I am pretty sure they also had to remove the axles when they were working. I don't know, I guess they fixed it, and it may have been me. Kind of feel weirded out by the whole mess. At least the car seems to be happy.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 2, 2014 20:50
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 21, 2024 16:48 |
|
|
Grumbletron 4000 posted:I don't have a multimeter and the old lady needs her car straightened out quick so she's gonna take it to the shop tonight and let them figure it out. I'm OK with that cause if it is just the bulbs they can deal with the upside down clusterfuck of having to put them in. If its something else, just as well because electrical gremlins suck rear end. Might check the hand brake switch. The low beams cut off if the brake is on.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 11, 2014 21:33
|
|