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Cat Terrist posted:If you want to drive a automotive whitegood and all you care about is not dropping your latte while facebooking while you cruise at 120kph, a CVT is just for you. IF you in any way shape or form like to hustle, a CVT will actively fight you the whole way with lag and soggy response that sucks your life out of you and deadens the response of the chassis to the throttle And it acts too often in exactly the wrong way if you want to have even the slightest go at a corner. Maybe it's because I've driven nothing but boring 4-cylinder Toyotas with lovely 4-speed automatics until now but I like the CVT in my base 2013 Impreza. Your points are valid and I wish the transmission could be tuned for better performance. Accelerating from 0 to 35 mph, the engine is going at 3500 rpms until it smoothly drops to 1500 rpms. Accelerating to highway speeds and passing speeds exhibit a similar routine but anecdotally appears to be much quicker at shifting to an appropriate ratio. Also, I found the fake gears to be rather useless. Maybe it's because I was using it in an Outback and a Crosstek but it wouldn't let you into higher or lower gears until you were at an appropriate speed and there was a noticeable lag between hitting the shifter paddle and the transmission actually shifting. Slowing down with the transmission is more tricky since the disconnect between the shifter and transmission made timing to downshifts more difficult and was nowhere nearly as effective as slowing down the low gear setting in my Impreza. So yeah, the CVT is pretty bad for anything sporty. But I would very much prefer it over a lovely 4-speed automatic even though that's probably not saying much. Edward IV fucked around with this message at 17:41 on Nov 16, 2013 |
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Nov 16, 2013 03:16
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There's the Levorg except that it's currently only for Japan and only has a CVT as far as I can tell. 
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Jan 23, 2014 04:34
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JDAMS CURE PASHTUN posted:Yeah, that thing doesn't count. Well, I like it.  That's in spite of the uncertainty of if it will make it to North America with a manual. Even though I bought a 2013 Impreza Wagon as my first car last May, I'm still pining for it though I'm more interested in the 1.6L Turbo. Call me lame if you must but the 1.6L Turbo has slightly less power but more torque than the naturally aspirated FB25, supposedly uses regular gas, and supposedly can get the equivalent of 41 MPG highway. What's wrong with having something fun and economical?
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Jan 23, 2014 04:51
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FogHelmut posted:I actually went from a GTP to a 2012 Impreza when my transmission finally kicked it at 192000 miles. First, you lose about 90hp. However, you gain a ton of functionality (in my case I went from a 2 door to a 5 door). I have the 5spd so I can't fully comment on the CVT, but the engine really wakes up above 4k rpm. You really need to get the revs up to go up hills. You can often do better than the advertised highway mpg on the highway, also you can often do worse than the advertised city mpg in the city. FM radio audio quality isn't good, but with Bluetooth or aux you'd think it was a completely different soundsystem. I have the CVT version in my 2013 model and I like it for the most part. Of course, I haven't driven a manual extensively and previous cars I driven were boring Toyotas with a 4-speed auto. The engine will usually run between 2k to 3k RPMs where you can easily make 30-32 MPG in suburban street driving and I've managed 37 MPG on the highway by cruising no more than 70 MPH. Cruising at 80 MPH will put you down to around 34 MPG. During acceleration, it'll open up to 4k RPM during acceleration before dipping back down to 2k-3k except for hard accelerations. It does have throttle lag which is particularly noticeable if you want to make sudden accelerations. Even from a stop, it'll take a second or two for the engine to open up. I've driven loaner cars with the paddle shifters and I think they're useless. It'll refuse to shift until the engine speed permits it and even then the shift isn't immediate (even when downshifting) and there is still noticeable throttle lag. It seems the CVT is better in the new Forrester and WRX but I haven't driven either yet. Still, the next Subaru I'm planning to get will have a turbo and a manual although the latter may not be an option if I end up in a commute with heavy stop and go traffic. Plus, I still need more experience driving a manual. Anyone have any suggestions for learning stick in or around NJ? Preferably in a hot hatch. 
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Apr 29, 2014 03:25
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mariooncrack posted:Do you get a lot of snow in your area? My car has a CVT but it handles awful in the snow and I have to drive it in manual mode if the snow is high enough and I want to go anywhere. Awful in what way? The only real trouble I had with snow (aside from going too fast to stop on short notice at which point the ABS goes into overdrive) was trying to start from a dead stop in 8" of of snow. There was enough snow on the road that my undercarriage was leaving an impression in the snow. I hadn't driven in snow much beforehand let alone know all the tips do drive in it but it took a lot of putting the car in forward and reverse (which was hampered by how slowly it shifts between the two modes) and messing with the steering wheel before I got enough momentum to keep moving. Fortunately, it was on the side streets and my home was less than a mile away. Plus, I was purposefully fooling around to test the limits of the car (within reason of course) and I now know not to stop in that much snow if I can avoid it. Otherwise, the car, CVT, and AWD system performed well in the snow. I never felt like I was losing control and I was able to remain in control at or slightly below the posted speed limits when the traffic permitted it. Obviously, my fuel economy tanked to about 25 MPG but the CVT performed about as normally as it does on dry road. I never felt like I wished I could take control of it because it wasn't running optimally.
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Apr 30, 2014 03:15
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It's been over a year since I got my 2012 Impreza with the CVT and, while I love it, I feel like it could use some more power and power response. However, I want the practicality of a wagon and the fuel economy of the newer engines. So neither the old or new model WRX is an option unless I forgo one of those requirements or hold out for Subaru to come out with a WRX wagon. The other, more outlandish, option is to get a 2014+ Forrester XT and throw on WRX, STI, or aftermarket running gear for a lower, stiffer ride, equivalent or better handling than my Impreza, and a manual transmission. The problem is that I have no experience or tools to pull off that kind of endeavor so I'll need to hire a mechanic or shop that is capable of such work. Also, while these mods have been done before on older models, it doesn't seem like anyone has done any significant modding to the new Forresters. Are they too just too new to the market for anyone to have done any significant work on them yet? I don't plan on doing anything for at least another year so right now it's a waiting game. I just like to know what my options are, recommended shops or goons in or around NJ that can perform the modifications if necessary, and if I'm crazy. Or I could just get and live with the Forrester XT as is until the modding scene becomes more mature. Still need to drive one and see how I like it as it's the only Subaru aside from the WRX, STI, and BRZ that I've driven during a test drive or as a loaner car. Edward IV fucked around with this message at 05:56 on Jul 8, 2014 |
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Jul 8, 2014 05:01
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mariooncrack posted:I am pretty sure you can only get a manual in the lower trims for the forester. The amount of money you'd spend on the car and then doing all of that swapping, supposing it's possible, you're better off buying an older wrx. I know it's silly to nitpick about fuel economy in a sport car but I'm used to getting 31 mpg and paying for 87 octane fuel. Going down to low 20s mpg and paying for 91 octane is a little difficult for me to swallow. Still, I'm only looking at a 2-3 mpg improvement in fuel economy when comparing the old and new WRX so perhaps I am a bit silly. Then again, rcman50166 managed to get 33 mpg out of his new WRX which is more what I'm looking for. Also, what I like about the new Forrester XT is that it doesn't have the hood scoop making it a more understated car. Yes, I like a car that performs well but isn't too flashy. However, I don't know how much more power can be wringed out of the engine since the intercooler seems to be mounted above the engine as usual. Again, I don't plan on doing anything for at least another year. Maybe by then, Subaru will announce a new WRX wagon with a manual transmission. One can only hope. Edward IV fucked around with this message at 16:41 on Jul 8, 2014 |
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Jul 8, 2014 16:24
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Filthy Monkey posted:Bought a 2015 Forester XT Touring today. My first subaru, and it seems pretty sweet. I was mainly looking for something I could use as a general purpose car, that had a little pickup to make it fun. I also needed a car with good headroom, as I bang my head into the ceiling of a lot of cars. How well does that high torque CVT work? Is the manual shifting worth a drat? I've driven an Impreza, Crosstek, and Outback with the paddle shifters and I never found them that useful. I found that it takes a second or two for the new ratio to settle in which is too slow. In automatic mode, I find that it takes roughly the same amount of time for the transmission to kick down if I wanted more power.
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Jul 25, 2014 01:55
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While we're talking about diffs, is it normal for my Impreza to make odd vibrating sounds (though with no noticeable vibrations felt) when making sharp turns at relatively high speed? Usually it happens when I accelerate quickly from a stop while making a sharp turn and the sound seems to come from the front outside turning wheel. It sort of sounds similar to when the ABS or break-actuated traction control kicks in. I suppose I could test it by disabling the traction control and seeing if I get wheel spin instead. Although my front tires are already more worn out than the rears. Is that normal? Particularly since I think the CVT models have a front wheel bias. Or have I been driving it too hard. I've only had the car for over a year and the front tires have maybe 1/8" to 3/16" of tread left on the outer races. In any case, I should probably get them rotated.
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Aug 8, 2014 02:25
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Miskatonic posted:Hey guys, I'm in the market for something all terrain and with good gas mileage. From your collective experiences, is the XV a solid Subaru? I like that it's a light crossover and has good ground clearance. My current jalopy is an '01 Isuzu Rodeo that's in the shop for the 2nd time this year. I had a Crosstrek as a loner once and I couldn't wait to get my Impreza back from the dealership. It was nowhere nearly as nimble as my Impreza as the steering felt more vague and the ride was not as firm. It was even less forthcoming when it came to power though both were equipped with CVTs. The Outback I was once given as a loner had a better ride but was too big and not as maneuverable. If the Forrester handled as well as the Outback, I'd out for that over the Crosstrek in spite of the higher cost. Besides, there is the option of the 250 hp Forrester XT if you want something with more power. I'd still do a test drive first. I heard the new model year Crosstreks had received steering and suspension improvements so the ride may be better. Plus, I haven't driven or ridden in a Forrester so I don't know how it handles.
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Aug 27, 2014 14:55
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I'm excited and confused. http://wot.motortrend.com/1409_spied_subaru_wrx_hatchback_lives_on_after_all.html It looks like the front body panels of the WRX was slapped onto Impreza hatchback with modifications to conform to the new front end. Hence, the inset gas cap since they probably didn't have the opportunity to modify the fuel system. The apparent lack of a tailpipe and blocked off hood scoop is more likely because it is a very early prototype that doesn't have a complete exhaust system or the WRX's fully tuned engine. Far more likely than this being an electric Impreza. This, however, wreaks of a rush job. It's as if Subaru underestimated the backlash from not offering the WRX as a hatchback and needed a solution much sooner than they could deliver a proper WRX hatchback successor if at all. So, they decided that modifying the Impreza to fit in the WRX's new clothes and muscles was more economical than fast tracking the design of the successor or bringing the Levorg over from Japan. Still, I love my 2012 Impreza hatchback so if it handles just as well I'll be satisfied. However, I haven't driven the 2015 WRX or its predecessors so I don't know how they compare to my Impreza. The bodywork needs to be improved as well but that goes without saying. 
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Sep 2, 2014 23:14
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The more that I look at the WRX hatchback prototype, the more I pine for the Levorg or a slammed Forester XT. Particularly since I have not been completely satisfied with my Impreza's cargo capacity and it doesn't look like there will be major changes to the interior dimensions in the new hatchback. There was barely enough room in my Impreza to take four occupants, their luggage, and a guitar on a road trip. We eventually managed by stacking everything high enough to block the rear window and using whatever space was left in the rear passenger seat for additional cargo. I wanted a WRX station wagon so much that I decided to see how a 2" drop would look on the new Forester XT.  If I had the money, tools, experience, and training to do this and swap the CVT for the WRX's 6-speed, I would in a heart beat.
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Sep 4, 2014 01:29
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Unless you become crazy rich and buy from these Vanagon conversion guys. http://boxeer.com/ This is giving me really bad and potentially awesome ideas; hunt for a third- or fourth-gen Legacy GT or Outback XT, swap in the diesel engine, and use the leftover engine, transmission, and whatever else needs to be swapped towards a FFR 818 build. Unless I'm misunderstanding terms, underestimating the weight of the 818 and trailer, or am completely getting the wrong idea about towing a trailer, the Legacy or Outback should make for good towing vehicle with an apparent maximum trailer weight rating of 2700 lbs. Probably even more so with the diesel. Plus, I can get the fuel efficient and fun daily driver I always wanted and an even more fun car to throw about. Probably a better idea than performing a tranny swap on a brand new car. However, I'm not sure how registrations, regulations, and emissions will work in New Jersey. And I'm not sure if it's worthwhile to hunt for a manual Legacy GT or Outback XT when I'm going to be swapping it out with the diesel-specific manual transmission. It would save me the trouble of selling or trading the automatic for a manual to use in the 818. I did already find a 2005 Outback XT with a manual and 73k miles on the engine for $11k that's not too far away although in another state. And it seems to be the only one to match that criteria.
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Sep 10, 2014 02:33
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BraveUlysses posted:Have you seen an 818 in person? I was excited about it until I saw them in person for the first time at SEMA last year. So would I be better off looking for a cheaper, regular high mileage Legacy or Outback (which would save me a few thousand dollars) for a diesel swap if at all and save up for a Miata instead?
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Sep 10, 2014 16:16
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Seat Safety Switch posted:gently caress that. Diesel swap the 818. I will admit that was the first thing I thought of when I saw the kits. Apparently they can be tuned to make 200 HP and 300 ft-lb or more. That in the 818 would be awesome. I haven't done thorough research and pricing but it would be more interesting and different. While I believe the diesel kit and hunting for the remaining parts would cost me more than parting out a WRX, the diesel would probably have far less mileage than any reasonably priced WRX donors. I believe swapping a diesel into both a Legacy and 818 is only a few thousand dollars more than swapping the diesel into only the Legacy GT and transplanting the gas engine into the 818. Either way I probably need to hunt for the same parts for the 818. I'm still quite certain on a diesel swap first for the Legacy Wagon or Outback as a fun workhorse and for something to cut my teeth on first since I haven't done a ton of work on cars before. I also would imagine it would be something easier to start with as it shouldn't need nearly as much fabrication and modification as the 818. Edward IV fucked around with this message at 20:08 on Sep 10, 2014 |
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Sep 10, 2014 19:36
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So I have yet another (bad?) idea. Since I'm looking for Legacy wagons and Outbacks for the diesel swap, instead of getting rid of the NA H4 or using the turbo H4 for the 818, I could also get the H6 Legacy or Outback instead for the engine swap. However, the H6 models don't seem to be a whole lot cheaper than the turbo models of similar model years and mileage. So what should I do? A turbo 818, H6 818, diesel 818, or save the money for something else? Also, what are some good resources and communities for performing these kinds of modifications? This is really uncharted rates for me.
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Sep 12, 2014 18:34
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What is everyone's thought of this 2006 Outback 3.0 for $3990 as a fixer-upper, a candidate for an eventual diesel swap, and using the leftover engine for an 818 build? http://newyork.craigslist.org/brk/cto/4688358348.html I'm not sure what's going on with the driver's headrest or the center elbow rest but the rest of the interior doesn't look too bad. The exterior damage seems to be limited to the body cladding, bumpers, and hood. How much should I expect to have those fixed, replaced, or cleaned up? Also, what would be my best option for making the hood work with the top mounted intercooler on the diesel engine? Replace it with a Legacy GT or Outback XT hood or fix and mod the hood with an air scoop? Then again, it's from Brooklyn so who knows what kind of hell it's been through. Could I do better? Edward IV fucked around with this message at 20:03 on Oct 2, 2014 |
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Oct 2, 2014 19:58
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So that discounted 2006 Outback 3.0R is back on CL for about $3600 and it's starting to look tempting even if I hold off or forgo the diesel swap. Another few hundred dollars less and I might go check it out. http://newyork.craigslist.org/brk/cto/4702228412.html The only other 6-cylinder Outbacks of that generation on CL go for over $12k. Barring any other issues that the seller hasn't disclosed, (I'm guessing) the costs to get it back into reasonable shape shouldn't get that close to that price particularly if I DIY. However, less money spent on repairs would go a long way towards a 5-speed manual swap or diesel swap. It's also probably a better way for me to cut my teeth on working on cars than going straight into a diesel swap or building an 818. So how exactly is the body cladding mounted to the body and where should I look for the missing pieces of cladding around the right rear wheel well? Any opinions on a two tone paint job by repainting the cladding and bumpers? (Which happen to have the most visible damage.) Color options? Is there anything I should look out for when querying the seller and inspecting the car? Particularly since the seller is in Brooklyn.
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Oct 14, 2014 03:46
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Yeah, I had a feeling that the listing is as seedy as I had assumed but I've never looked for a used car before so I don't know what to look out for. Back to trawling Craigslist or whatever for a 2006-2009 Outback or a 2003-2008 Forester that's cheap but not beat to hell. Or patiently wait for Subaru to bring a WRX hatchback or the 1.6L DIT with a manual transmission in the Impreza or Forester and trade in the "old" Impreza. Hell if I need a second car like a hole in the head right now. In the meantime, is there anything I can do, short of trading in for a manual model, to make my Impreza's CVT suck less? I know I've had a like/hate relationship with the CVT but it doesn't inspire much confidence in accelerating or overtaking. I can live with it for a while but the novelty has worn off.
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Oct 14, 2014 06:19
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FogHelmut posted:You have a 13 Impreza, right? Use the shift paddles? I mean, the 0-60 on these things is like 9 seconds, that's not morbidly slow. There's an Australian guy on NASIOC selling tunes, which would probably void your warranty, and who knows how much it would do in the real world. I don't even have cruise control let alone paddle shifters. That's what I get for buying the base model (and not having any friend or family members who are into cars) but I'll know better for the next car I get and at least this car is completely paid off. I'm barely halfway through the powertrain warranty and by the time or before it is up (hopefully) something to my liking and preferences will be available.
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Oct 14, 2014 15:07
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Amnomia posted:What do you guys think of Subie CVTs? Outside of it not being manual. As someone who has a 2013 Impreza with the first gen CVT sans paddle shifters and previously drove boring automatic Toyota's, I find the CVT serviceable but that's the best I can say about it. I don't mind the discrepancy between engine speed/noise and road speed when accelerating but the slow throttle response can be irritating when you're trying to accelerate quickly. It feels like it takes more than one second going deep on the accelerator before the engine opens up. Still, it works well enough that I'll keep the car for another year or two. Hopefully by then, Subaru will have a new WRX wagon for sale.
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Nov 7, 2014 20:42
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OWLS! posted:Help. I have a real person job, and am in the market for a car (I currently drive a well-worn '03 Impreza RS), and I'm furiously in love with the 2015 Impreza. Depends on what you're looking for. Are you looking for fun? Speed? Fuel economy? Automatic or manual? I have a 2012 base model with the automatic CVT which is basically the same as the 2015 model except for a slightly updated body and interior. While I've ragged on the engine and CVT before for being not very responsive, I will have admit that it is a hoot to drive below 55 mph and is adequately responsive at those speeds. Beyond that the engine takes more convincing to accelerate and the road noise does get rather deafening after a few hours. However, the 2015's upgraded interior does include improved sound dampening. Too bad they didn't improve the drivetrain except for a 1 mpg increase. The 2012 manual model has a 0-to-60 mph time of 8.0 seconds vs the CVT's 9.0 seconds while the manual 2008-2011 models has a time of 7.6 seconds. The fuel economies are 24/33, 27/36, and 22/27 city/highway mpg respectively. As for reliability, I've had my Impreza for about 1 1/2 years and it's been running without incident. While there is a case of these engines consuming more oil than normal, I've never found it to be an issue though I never really looked closely at the invoice for how much oil is getting put in. In short, I'm happy with my Impreza despite the somewhat anemic engine and loud high speed road noise. At least happy enough to drive it for another year and hope by then that a new WRX hatchback will be coming out. Otherwise, my fallback plan is get a 2014 or newer Forester XT and tighten up and lower the suspension, find a 2014 or older WRX hatchback, or wait some more. The upcoming Mazdaspeed 3 with AWD sounds like an interesting option, too.
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Nov 30, 2014 07:35
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Here's to hoping that the Impreza hatchback prototype wearing WRX duds that was spotted last summer is a sign that there is a WRX hatchback in the works and not just an Impreza hatchback refresh. As cool as the RS is, the RS along with the STI and Golf R are quite beyond my budget particularly as a daily driver. I don't intend on breaking traffic laws or taking the car to a track so I world rather have something that's fun on the street, practical, reliable, and affordable. A WRX hatchback would cover those requirements.
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Feb 3, 2015 22:40
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So I lost my right faux fog light panel for my 2012 Impreza some time last night. It's probably in some rut in Jersey City after making a wrong turn into an industrial zone and encountering some really bumpy and icy roads which bounced the car quite a bit. Everything else on the car seems fine, though, including the hub caps. It wasn't the first time those panels came off though. The first time it came off it was right outside my driveway after clipping my front bumper on a snow bank while backing out so I was able to recover it and put it back on. Are they usually that easy to knock off considering it's just plastic push tabs keeping them in? Anyways, there's now a hole in my front right bumper and snow has already collected inside. Aside from the dealer, what are my options for getting a replacement and does anyone have any suggestions on how to better keep them from falling out.
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Mar 7, 2015 18:19
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Totally TWISTED posted:Looks like you need 15 and 18 from here Thanks for that. They're on order now though I just discovered that the bump that claimed the bezel did more damage than I initially thought. Fortunately, it seems to be mostly cosmetic. The right front mud flap got knocked loose. Again and in the same manner as last time. I'm not sure how it happened the first time but i was able to push the plastic rivets back into the bottom panel.  The left front mud flap is completely gone and broke off and damaged the tabs that hold the front bumper to the bottom panel.  The flaps shouldn't be a big issue to fix (are they even necessary?) though getting that front left joint properly fixed looks like a real pain. What are my options now or later if I want to get the most out of the value of the car when I trade it in when I get my next car?
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Mar 9, 2015 18:28
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JudgeJoeBrown posted:I was a little busy this afternoon with my wrx.  Now I'm itching for for Subaru to do the reasonable thing and make a turbocharged Crosstrek.
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Apr 14, 2015 16:11
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Internet Explorer posted:So purely hypothetical from a complete non-car guy, how hard would it be / how much would it cost, to swap the motor from a 2015 WRX to a 2014 WRX? Bajaha's thread should give you an idea on what's involved in swapping engines between two different generation and model Subarus. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3517370 Unless you luck out and come across a wrecked 2015 WRX without significant engine damage (or you're made of money), it wouldn't be worth it. And there is a LOT more work to an engine swap besides physically swapping the engine. From my understanding of it, wiring everything is one of the biggest pains in the rear end with this kind of swap since the wiring harness tends to be very model specific (which makes even transmission swaps not a walk in the park), isn't designed for plug and play and customization without electrical tools, and connects to almost every electrical part in the car including lights, motors, displays, sensors, and switches. Plus, you'll be SOL if there's any significant problems with the engine (being a new engine and all) that can only be feasibly fixed by the manufacturer. For what it's worth, there is an Impreza/Crosstrek mule roaming about with a wider wheelbase and wearing the WRX's front end that's supposedly for the 2017 model year. While some publications say this isn't a WRX hatchback, perhaps I'm reading a little too much into the meaning and that they're saying that this particular mule isn't the WRX hatchback. Anyways, I'm hoping the wider wheelbase and the WRX's front end and hood means that Subaru can more easily fit the WRX's engine and running gear so that they can make a case for selling at least an Impreza and/or Crosstrek for enthusiasts. http://www.caranddriver.com/news/2017-subaru-impreza-spy-photos-news To be honest, I'm not sure why Subaru made the WRX physically different from the Impreza instead of building up from the Impreza. I thought the whole appeal of hot hatches to manufacturers was that the underpinnings of the car is the same or similar enough to the mass produced, general consumer model that the costs of development, testing, and approval would be lower than making a car for enthusiasts almost from the ground up. Did Subaru bet that, by developing the WRX on its own platform separate from the Impreza, the greatly improved handling would make up for the lack of a hatchback?
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May 19, 2015 23:12
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cliffdiver posted:Looking for a '12-14 Forester and I've had an old Grand Cherokee for-loving-ever. I've heard mixed things about Subaru's version of CVT, mainly either "it's bad it doesn't feel right" or "no no Subaru does a really good job with CVT". Right now I've just been sticking to the 4-speed automatics in the '12-13s but haven't test driven a '14 with CVT yet. I'll ultimately try one but I just wanted to get some foresight on it. Is it as loud as some people say? Still worth the increase in fuel efficiency? There's basically two types of CVTs that Subaru uses; the regular CVT used with their naturally aspirated 4-cylinder engines and the high torque CVT used with their 6-cylinder and some of their turbo 4-cylinder engines. I've only driven with the regular CVT in my 2012 Impreza (and a loner Crosstrek) but it generally works well. It's pretty fuel efficient for an AWD car as I generally get around 30 mpg but the EPA ratings of 27/36 mpg are pretty accurate in those conditions. The Forester 2.5i is rated for 24/32 mpg. The AWD system is also plenty capable on the road and in inclement weather. Noise volume is not an issue I've ever come across and most of the noise complaints I heard were more about the transmission holds the engine at a certain speed while accelerating contrary to cars with multiple gear ratio transmissions. I personally never had an issue with that kind of operational noise but then again I didn't get into cars until recently. About the only thing I don't like about the CVT and engine is that the throttle response is noticeably delayed and it takes some time and a little convincing with the gas pedal to the floor (don't have paddle shifters on mine) to get the engine above 4000 RPMs. It's probably why I get such good fuel economy since I don't bother running the car very hard. Apparently, the high torque CVT used in at least the WRX and Forester XT will normally mimic a multiple gear ratio transmission unless driven very hard. Though by virtue of having more powerful and gas hungry engines, fuel economy for the Forester XT isn't as good at 23/28 mpg and it recommends premium gas. I haven't driven anything with this CVT so I can't say much else about it. Basically, Subaru CVTs work well and seem to have a better reputation than those from other manufacturers but it's not really for enthusiasts. Edward IV fucked around with this message at 16:12 on May 28, 2015 |
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May 28, 2015 04:19
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:The Levorg(?) has it's own problems tho. The big one is CVT. There is the Levorg S concept with a 6-speed manual and a handbrake. Supposedly, the running gear is from the WRX instead of the STI. Just needs to be left hand drive and I'd take it.    But hatchback or wagon, can't we all agree that we want a WRX with more junk in the trunk? Well technically it won't be a trunk but you get the idea. Edward IV fucked around with this message at 03:52 on Sep 5, 2015 |
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Sep 4, 2015 15:33
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Slow is Fast posted:Try a CVT XV. Now that's just cruel. I drove one as a loner and I hated it. Even with the paddle shifters, trying to accelerate was painfully slow. It's even slower than my Impreza of the same model year that didn't have the paddle shifters but has an almost 1 second advantage in 0 to 60 mph times at 9 and 9.9 seconds for the Impreza and Crosstrek respectively. Still you really had to plan ahead with power application in the Impreza because the engine's response to stabbing the accelerator has a a second or two of delay before the engine got above 3000 rpm.
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Sep 11, 2015 22:02
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So I'm contemplating an alternative to a new WRX hatchback since it looks like it may end up coinciding closely with the Tesla Model 3 in terms of price and release date. Depending on their performance, price, and release date, I may get a Model 3 (maybe an AWD hatchback/CUV model) as a medium range general purpose car instead of the WRX as my only car for the moment. However, I still need something that will get me through long-distance road trips relatively quickly to areas that are under-serviced by the Supercharging network. Particularly for trips between New Jersey, Virginia Beach, and southwestern Virginia. I was thinking of getting a 2006-2009 Legacy wagon or Outback for those road trips. Particularly the 6-cylinder models since it sounds like the 4-cylinder turbo is more trouble than it's worth. I actually wanted to use one as a recipient vehicle for a diesel swap before I decided that such a swap was well beyond my means and abilities. Also, those particular Legacy and Outback models have pretty similar dimensions to my 2013 Impreza except for the Legacy's longer rear end and larger cargo area so I'm already familiar with driving a car of that size. Although their dimensions are similar, does anyone know how differently they handle? Would a Legacy wagon or Outback be ideal for long road trips? A comfortable ride would be great as I start to get uncomfortable in my Impreza after a few hours of constant driving. While it may be more trouble than it's worth, I want to convert the 6-cylinder Legacy to run with a manual transmission. Probably a 5-speed or non-DCCD 6-speed transmission as I don't plan to race with it. While such configurations do exist in Japan, Europe, and Australia, they don't exist in the US. It probably makes more sense to convert a 6-cylinder automatic model to manual than it is to swap the 6-cylinder engine in a manual model. Is there anything I need to look out for when buying a 6-cylinder Legacy or Outback? As for the conversion itself, I'm not sure what to do with the electronics as that's probably the biggest hurdle. Ideally, I want everything to work with little to no fuss including ABS and cruise control and pass NJ inspection. I suppose the ideal solution would be to source an ECU from a 6-cylinder manual model from Japan, Europe, or Australia. The other option is to fool the ECU and TCU into working without the original transmission and re-tune the engine but that may be far from ideal. Actually, I saw an old listing on NASIOC and Legacy GT forums for a JDM transmission and ECU for a 6-cylinder manual Legacy for about $3000 altogether but that was already sold months ago. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/ca-bay-area-used-2005-jdm-subaru-legacy-spec-b-227262.html Still, I may contact that buyer for advice since it looks like we have the same idea. Maybe I should start trawling Australian or European Subaru fan forums for parts.
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Sep 16, 2015 01:58
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si posted:I did 1300 miles in one day in my 09 spec.B bringing it home from Newark, NJ. Very comfortable. The entertainment is kinda craptacular, so plan on bringing some sort of audio hookup or a lot of CDs. Dunno what you mean handling/performance wise - they handle extremely well. The 5th gen from 2010 on are the ones that got all boat-like. The 05-09 Legacy is the same susp platform as the 08+ WRX. Yeah I was worried about how boat-like it would handle. I drove a 6-cylinder 2010 Outback as a loner once and while it handed far better than the Crosstrek loner, it felt and drove like a large car which I was not too comfortable with. My Impreza is a lot more nimble than either of those cars which I have now come to appreciate. But it's good to hear that that generation handles better than the newer generation. As for entertainment, I was thinking of doing a JDM double DIN conversion so I can use a more modern head unit. While the entertainment system in my Impreza isn't terribly fancy, Bluetooth integration is very important to me particularly for hands-free calling. Edward IV fucked around with this message at 15:53 on Sep 16, 2015 |
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Sep 16, 2015 15:48
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Looking at the post history of the guy that bought that JDM 6-speed, it turns out that that transmission is all he bought and he was using it for a different car and project. (Which he wrecked last week.) So while I may not get much useful advice from him, that 6-cylinder manual ECU may still be for sale. It's too bad it doesn't include a wiring harness because it sounds like the ones on the automatic and manual models are noticeably different. Is $500 too much for an ECU for a project that may be more trouble than its with? As for potential vehicles to purchase, there is not a whole lot on Craigslist around New Jersey. It seems that 2006 and newer models seem to start around $8000. I would prefer a 2006 or newer model since according to the IIHS the 2006 and newer models are a noticeably more safe especially for side impacts. I guess I could wait and see for prices to go down as I'm in no big hurry to change cars right this instance. Edward IV fucked around with this message at 21:01 on Sep 16, 2015 |
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Sep 16, 2015 19:26
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So I broke the mount for the driver's side sunvisor such that the visor won't stay on the mount on the ceiling. I broke it from handling it too hard as I have duck my head when I want to move the sunvisor from front to side and vise versa which disrupts my driving so I try to transition it as quickly as I can. Surely there has to be a better way to do that. Anyways, I managed to temporarily fix it by using some 16ga steel wire I had laying around. While it does hold the visor so that it won't fall, the visor will freely swing about when it's not clipped in so it's rather annoying to use to the side especially on even the lightest left turns. I looked for a replacement for the mounting base only to find that the base and sunvisor seems to come as a single part at least from here. (#3) https://www.subarupartsdepot.com/parts/2013/Subaru/Impreza/Base?siteid=215079&vehicleid=387386&diagram=7595410 And the whole sunvisor and mount is $56.53 which is rather steep since the sunvisor is fine aside from the broken base. Also, I wanted to get one for the passenger side as well since I noticed some cracking around where the driver side base broke so it may not have much more time either. So am I missing something or is there somewhere else I can get just the base? I could also probably fix it by adding a liner or bushing made out of rubber or tight fitting plastic so there is enough friction to hold the visor when it's not clipped in but not too much that it can't be easily moved. Also, there now some crap lost in the space between the headliner/ceiling and the roof of the car; part of the plastic mount that broke off and some of the steel wire from an earlier botched fix. I don't suppose there is anyway to get them out, is there. Hopefully, they don't reek too much havoc. The plastic I'm not too concerned about but I am a little worried about that piece of galvanized steel wire as I'm afraid the somewhat sharp ends might abrade something. Don't here anything rattling up there when the car is moving about so that might be a good sign. Edward IV fucked around with this message at 04:56 on Dec 8, 2015 |
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Dec 8, 2015 04:48
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Wojcigitty posted:Your choices for fun, new, AWD cars with three pedals and some room are: 5. Wait for the new WRX hatchback rumored to come out next spring based on leaked manufacturing forecast documents.
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Feb 3, 2016 16:58
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Three-Phase posted:Gotcha. Am I correct that the Crosstrek probably is a bit lighter and less rugged than a Forester? I did notice that it has similar ground clearance of >8". My current vehicle only has 5" of clearance and I'd prefer a vehicle that wasn't quite that low. They're practically the same in terms of ruggedness. They're tough enough to get through inclement weather and dirt roads but you're not going to be rock crawling with them. Three-Phase posted:I didn't notice a drat thing in the test drive! It was a 2016 automatic, so I'd assume it had the CVT. I mean "Spooling up"? All new Subarus with automatics are CVTs. As for the spooling up, it basically means that there is about a one second delay between pushing down the accelerator any amount from any position and the car actually moving in response in the change in the accelerator position. Between that delay and the engine taking time to get above 4000 rpm where all the torque and power is (since the car loves to hang between 1500 and 3000 rpm), it can be pretty frustrating if you suddenly need to go faster. I've never driven fast cars before but it's quite noticeable to me in my 2013 Impreza. You can kind of get around it (or at least not get annoyed with it) by planning and anticipating your throttle inputs and applying them smoothly and avoiding the need the accelerate quickly. My Impreza doesn't have paddle shifters so I don't know if using manual mode and down shifting can mitigate that issue but I could always shift into low gear and then accelerate before shifting back to drive. I don't really do it that way since I don't know what kind of additional wear that would add to the transmission and it doesn't feel like it makes me accelerate any faster than just jabbing the accelerator like normal. Edward IV fucked around with this message at 03:21 on Jul 13, 2016 |
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Jul 13, 2016 03:16
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Three-Phase posted:One more question for the Subaru gurus: The engine should still be the FB25 in the non-XT models. The 2017 model year will be mostly the same as the 2013 model year. It won't be a completely new car like the 2017 Impreza.
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Jul 25, 2016 03:28
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Got some potential trouble with my 2012 Impreza. Really poor timing as I'm unemployed and have two interviews later this week that are each over 100 mile round trip. I noticed the Check Engine and Traction Control light was shortly after leaving my home. I didn't notice anything too particular about the way it drove but I decided to turn back just in case. I fortunately have an OBD reader (thanks to my brother having an old lovely car that was barely passing inspection) which returned the codes U0073 and P1449. U0073 seems to indicate a communication wiring issue or control module malfunction and P1149 seems to indicate an issue with the fuel tank vent. I don't know if the two occurring together means anything since everything I've read online is asking about one or the other. I'm due for an oil change soon anyways so I'll have the dealer look at it when I go in. I hope this doesn't take my car out of commission for too long while it's being serviced. Gonna have to change my evening plans to do something a little closer to here out of caution but it should be fine to drive as long as I take care of this soon, right?
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Sep 11, 2016 01:14
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Just checked. First I tightened it and then took the cap off and on twice. Unless I need to clear the codes or drive it some way, CEL and TCS lights are still on.
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Sep 11, 2016 01:22
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Looks like clearing the codes did the trick for now though I only drove it for about two miles afterwords. The problem being the gas cap kind of makes sense since I filled up yesterday but didn't pay attention to hear if the attendant closed the cap completely. :nj: Odd that it took until now for the CEL light to come on now since I drove over 100 miles right after filling up yesterday. Also odd that you would have to have an OBD reader or take the car in somewhere to clear an issue caused by a lapse in judgement. (I don't know how likely that is because I live in NJ and rarely pump my own gas) That is unless it is because not having a secured cap results in a false positive for more serious issues.
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Sep 11, 2016 03:07
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