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It’s a DRZ
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Mar 30, 2024 23:44
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Get more DRZs
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Mar 31, 2024 11:28
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I'm pretty sure my Honda NCS 50 scooter's battery is proper dead and that I need to replace my first moto battery. I've read somewhere (probably here) that Yuasa is the goto brand. Vendor information differs, but some state these batteries need to be filled with fluid before use. Some state "dry charged", some "acid included" with a picture of a sixpack of small bottles. Some say "already filled with water", some that I should "go to a mechanic and ask them to add battery acid" (which my nanny state won't let me buy). What's the actual deal with Yuasa batteries? Or should I just get whatever brand is available wet and ready over the counter at a local getting place?
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Mar 31, 2024 11:59
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Yuasa batteries are pretty dependable, other batteries I’ve tried have had shorter lifespans, but at the end of the day a battery is a battery. The main thing is you want a maintenance-free battery, sealed from the factory so there’s no dicking around with acids and distilled water.
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Mar 31, 2024 14:22
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Right-o. It seems there are shipping restrictions for wet lead acid batteries, so if I want a wet and ready Yuasa I'll need to find a local supplier. I'm sure they are around somewhere at a reasonable price but the only one I could find semi-locally with a cursory googling was  . A local big box chain store has a maintenance free gel battery that fits and has the right specs, so that's what's happening. If it was the motorcycle which I road trip I would probably go for quality but this is a rough and ready runabout that never goes far from home. Also I verified that it's just the battery that's messed up by starting the scoot via jumper cables hooked up to an electric wheelbarrow (runs on a small lead acid battery and is highly mobile) which I thought was a little bit funny.
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Mar 31, 2024 15:27
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cursedshitbox posted:Question thread: Assembly is the reverse of disassembly except that you swear in different places.
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Mar 31, 2024 17:31
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Sagebrush posted:Make sure to take apart all your carburetors at the same time so you can clean them together for maximum efficiency. I did this and only had 3 screws leftover Glimpse posted:Yuasa batteries are pretty dependable, other batteries I’ve tried have had shorter lifespans, but at the end of the day a battery is a battery. The Yuasa I bought online came where you had to dump the water in, but it was a non-issue. Plop the water bottle thing on top, wait for it to drain, snap the caps on after and you're done.
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Apr 1, 2024 15:14
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Invalido posted:Right-o. It seems there are shipping restrictions for wet lead acid batteries, so if I want a wet and ready Yuasa I'll need to find a local supplier. I'm sure they are around somewhere at a reasonable price but the only one I could find semi-locally with a cursory googling was Biltema is always the answer. Even when its not.
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Apr 1, 2024 23:06
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Gotta love/hate Biltema. I just wish they weren't such chickenshits and allowed people to review their products on the website like Jula does. One whole year of warranty on that 399kr battery! Is it any good? Probably not very, but it works right now and the scooter is up and running again, long may it last. I took it on a nice long test ride yesterday. It reached 60km/h on flat ground with a strong tailwind.
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Apr 2, 2024 06:40
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i have a fuel injected bike that seems to run fine, but it needs a little bit of throttle to get started. after it starts it idles fine. seems strange for FI to need gas on startup. any ideas?
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Apr 3, 2024 16:41
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I know my VanVan (FI) needs this as well when the weather is just-so.
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Apr 3, 2024 17:41
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Always needed the same on my FI CBR. My understanding of motorcycle FI is that it’s often low pressure manifold injection and that you can expect some carb-like quirks, especially relative to modern auto engines with direct injection and better emissions (combustion ratio) monitoring. Ulf fucked around with this message at 20:23 on Apr 3, 2024 |
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Apr 3, 2024 20:20
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Yeah. The main thing that basic FI gets you over a carburetor, besides fewer moving parts, is an automatic choke. It's still subject to basic laws of physics like "cold gasoline sprayed onto cold metal doesn't vaporize very well."
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Apr 3, 2024 22:07
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2 of my FI bikes will idle higher when cold. The monkey does it automatically. The KX requires me to pull a sort of choke knob
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Apr 3, 2024 22:11
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There were weird in-between bikes that had vestiges of carburetors on their fuel injection. Lots of bikes had FI and manual chokes.
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Apr 4, 2024 00:11
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Lol that KX is 2022.
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Apr 4, 2024 00:26
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EFI bikes can come with a few throttle that automatically increases idle when cold, an idle air speed bypass system like a car, a mechanical idle speed control system, a manual idle speed increase device, or fucken nothing at all
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Apr 4, 2024 02:54
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The WR had this wax thermobulb much like you'd find in a thermostat that operated its cold start advance. The one on my bike was poo poo broken and I wasn't buying another entire loving throttle body. So it'd idle low and stall out if you tried to brap off immediately after starting. The broken TE510 in the bay next to mine has a choke despite being efi. It also has a hot start(decomp) lever.
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Apr 4, 2024 04:57
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cursedshitbox posted:The WR had this wax thermobulb much like you'd find in a thermostat that operated its cold start advance. This is a very common contrivance on Yamahas of a certain era
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Apr 4, 2024 05:03
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the ninja will idle at like 2k for a few seconds the rev itself to like 4.5k for like a second then drop back down to 2k just after a cold start its very unusual.
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Apr 4, 2024 21:09
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What up CA Goons. I rode for years, almost entirely Harleys. Mostly overbuilt Sportys that I would race, and Dynas for cruising. After a back injury 6? Years ago I stopped riding entirely. Recently I found myself in a situation where I'm living about 2 miles from work and want to get back on a tiny bike. I've been looking at the Honda Navi because it's dumb cheap, and I hate to admit this, because it's an automatic. I put my left hand through a table saw when I was a kid, and they put most of my fingers back on. But the arthritis and poo poo is getting worse and worse as I get older. I recently rode a coworkers Monkey around downtown and I was almost in tears when I got back because of how much pain my clutch hand was in. What are y'all's thoughts on the Honda Navi for a cheap little commuter bike, running about two miles one way.
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Apr 5, 2024 06:08
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You cannot go wrong with a Honda!
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Apr 5, 2024 06:43
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I think that sounds great. You could also look at scooters since they don’t have a clutch and are frickin’ ideal for short trips like that. I get going for the Navi if you’re feeling the motorcycle itch, though. I’d also say anything electric that catches your fancy, but they’re just not cheap yet. Even electric scooters are a pretty penny.
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Apr 5, 2024 09:12
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Navi is a great option. Also what about just a bicycle for getting to work? 2 miles is perfect distance for that, get an ebike if you want to make it even more fun.
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Apr 6, 2024 04:23
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The Navi is very cute, if OP wants something bigger eventually Honda has multiple options for bikes with DCT transmissions. I think there's a 750 in there.
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Apr 6, 2024 05:30
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anyone have a camera on their bike? it might be fun to record some of my rides. i've seen gimballed videos that look really sweet too
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Apr 7, 2024 00:39
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I occasionally put a GoPro on my bike. I got a gopro adapter for the RAM mount I already use for my phone. But like vacation photos, the only people interested in watching your riding ride video is going to be you. 
Collateral Damage fucked around with this message at 10:28 on Apr 7, 2024 |
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Apr 7, 2024 01:22
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The newer GoPros have auto horizon leveling and stabilization built in. You can get that gimballed look for much less $ with them
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Apr 7, 2024 03:03
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This might be a silly question... I have these old Cobra F1R mufflers for a Ninja 250 that I want to take apart so I can repack them, but they won't budge (the center is supposed to be knocked out of the body of it from the exit, I think), so I'm wondering how I can loosen everything. Can I just sumberge these in chemdip or something? They're really light aluminum, and I know nothing, so I'm worried about applying fire.
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Apr 7, 2024 18:10
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Beve Stuscemi posted:The newer GoPros have auto horizon leveling and stabilization built in. You can get that gimballed look for much less $ with them sweet, i impulse bought one of the go pros, and a suction mount? hopefully it works
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Apr 7, 2024 18:15
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Slavvy posted:Yeah leaving the tap on by itself shouldn't immediately cause that, it's likely got a tired or sticky float valve Finally got around to opening up my carb and I'm not seeing anything immediately problematic. I have the parts so I can replace the float valve anyway but is there something obvious that I'm missing that would point to the problem? Seems pretty clean in there. 
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Apr 7, 2024 18:23
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hit the bricks pal! posted:Finally got around to opening up my carb and I'm not seeing anything immediately problematic. I have the parts so I can replace the float valve anyway but is there something obvious that I'm missing that would point to the problem? Seems pretty clean in there. In my experience, carb blockages have been microscopic. Not to say that problems themselves are microscopic, just that, you can't see them. I would take apart my bike's carb, poke and lightly scrub appropriately-sized wires through every orifice, look for residues, find nothing, put it back together, and it would run better than before.
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Apr 7, 2024 18:36
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I have a GoPro mounted to my helmet. The real question to ask is whether I know where my battery is, or whether it works 
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Apr 7, 2024 19:44
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hit the bricks pal! posted:Finally got around to opening up my carb and I'm not seeing anything immediately problematic. I have the parts so I can replace the float valve anyway but is there something obvious that I'm missing that would point to the problem? Seems pretty clean in there. It might be that the oring on the valve seat isn't really fully sealing anymore, it looks pretty square in that pic
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Apr 7, 2024 19:46
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Any ideas where this oil could have come from? Honda CB300R. It's at the very bottom of the frame, the flange that connects to the rear of the crankcase. I cannot find any signs of oil anywhere else, and the oil level is normal. The only thing I noticed is the airbox breather looks kind of gross and is slightly bent to the from the reservoir hose of the shock I installed, but I am assuming that is incidental.   Additional pictures fwiw: https://ibb.co/album/3f2TFb
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Apr 7, 2024 21:06
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I'm getting around to replacing my starter, now that it's less frigid in my garage, and I have a question the little clip that holds 3 hoses coming out of my oil tank. On the stock starter, on the top there's a long bolt, and on the bottom there's a slightly longer bolt that protrudes enough to show extra threads, and that's what the clip attaches to. On the aftermarker starter (it's the Alls Balls 1.4kw), on the bottom there's a long bolt, and on the top there's a slightly longer bolt that protrudes enough to show extra threads. What do these bolts actually do, and am I meant to swap them around if necessary? Maybe I should just turn the clip upside down?   Here's the clip:  PS getting the a starter out of a Sportster sucks. The rear exhaust had to come off, fine, but the FSM doesn't say that due to the aforementioned clip, the clip needs to be removed, which means so does the plate in front of the front belt pulley, which means the front exhaust had to also come off 
epswing fucked around with this message at 21:39 on Apr 7, 2024 |
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Apr 7, 2024 21:30
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Bonus question, here are my exhaust ports. One of these things doesn't look like the other one. What's going on with my rear exhaust, it looks... toasty? 
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Apr 7, 2024 21:35
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Toe rag drain your airbox and see what comes outepswing posted:I'm getting around to replacing my starter, now that it's less frigid in my garage, and I have a question the little clip that holds 3 hoses coming out of my oil tank. On the stock starter, on the top there's a long bolt, and on the bottom there's a slightly longer bolt that protrudes enough to show extra threads, and that's what the clip attaches to. On the aftermarker starter (it's the Alls Balls 1.4kw), on the bottom there's a long bolt, and on the top there's a slightly longer bolt that protrudes enough to show extra threads. You could probably swap the bolts over, they hold the motor body to the casting. You could probably also just turn the clip upside down Your exhausts look pretty normal, the rear looks leaner because it runs hotter. In the absence of individual carbs per cylinder there will always be a compromise on the jetting between the two. That's just Harley life. You need to replace those gaskets btw.
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Apr 7, 2024 21:50
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Bleh, doesn't quite reach. I'll find a small nut+bolt to hold the clip together, I'm not too worried about it. Here's some bonus footage of the little plastic stairs (meant to keep the chain/sprockets from turning) exploding under pressure while applying a couple hundred ft-lb of torque to the engine sprocket nut. I'm a dummy, I should have just bought the proper tool (metal bar that jams in between the sprockets). https://i.imgur.com/HACmVHV.mp4
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Apr 8, 2024 03:57
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Slavvy posted:It might be that the oring on the valve seat isn't really fully sealing anymore, it looks pretty square in that pic I replaced it and got everything back together. Definitely don't like the oil change process compared to my SV... Seemed to run ok once it started. Hopefully it won't have any more issues right away so I can stop thinking I should have got a KLX instead!
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Apr 8, 2024 20:33
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