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skypunk
Apr 26, 2007

MY SMILE IS GONE FOR GOOD!
Two questions.

One:

Gnomad posted:

HARDCORE MFing winter riding in the 907

Tell me about winter riding! I'm heading home to Eagle River in December and I'd much rather ride something 2-wheeled for 12 months of the year rather than three! The commute into Anchorage would be far more bearable.

Is it completely batshit crazy to do this?

Two:
I have an 86 Kawa. Vulcan 750 that had a bum stator. Took it to the only shop in town (Eureka, CA) and the guy quoted parts at over $300 and labor at the same. Labor I get - to replace the stator on a Vulcan 750 of that year you have to take out the whole engine - but parts? The total bill is $788 and change and I'm wondering just how screwed I got.

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Coredump
Dec 1, 2002

Captain Apollo posted:

Well I'm financially ready to buy a motorcycle.

89 Kawasaki Ninja

$1300.


Here's the craiglist
http://odessa.craigslist.org/mcy/835574617.html

Any thoughts?

The whole time I was negotiating I thought it was a Ninja 250. Turns out its a Ninja 600....is this okay?

???

There is a whole thread for this type of question here:
http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2973065

Captain Apollo
Jun 24, 2003

King of the Pilots, CFI
Oh what the gently caress when did they ....sigh.


Thanks :)

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

AlaskaGrpwn posted:

Two questions.
Is it completely batshit crazy to do this?
Not batshit. But, a little. :-) if the streets STAY snowy, I'd say you're completely sane. Homogenous surfaces are easy to ride on. It's when things start going from slush, to tarmac, to ice, to snow, to slush that things get hairy.

quote:

Two:*stator replacement
$700 is WAY high. Then again, Im' one of those fools who will rewind their own stator.

skypunk
Apr 26, 2007

MY SMILE IS GONE FOR GOOD!

Nerobro posted:

$700 is WAY high. Then again, Im' one of those fools who will rewind their own stator.

Yeah, if I had tools or a garage I would've attempted it myself. Now what, though? Do I try and argue the point with anecdotal evidence that I got screwed or suck it up and fork it over?

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!
if they have your bike, they have you by the balls. You need to suck it up and pay. if you want the bike back that is.

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




I know its not a question, but this isnt worth its own thread.

Holy gently caress this is a steal if you dont mind doing some wrenching.

http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/mcy/872904041.html

Thats a fuckload of bike for not much dough.

Gnomad
Aug 12, 2008

AlaskaGrpwn posted:

Two questions.

One:


Tell me about winter riding! I'm heading home to Eagle River in December and I'd much rather ride something 2-wheeled for 12 months of the year rather than three! The commute into Anchorage would be far more bearable.

Is it completely batshit crazy to do this?



Yeah it's batshit crazy but not riding makes me even crazier.

Seriously, I've never had a down in the winter, although I came close once coming home from the local Brown Jug and grabbed way too much front brake...saved it though, thank goodness. That would have shook the beer up.

I'm sure you remember how the highway is in the winter. Right after it snows it isn't fit for man or beast, I wouldn't attempt riding those days due to the cages rolling about like so many carnivorous billiard balls. After say 3 days to a week, the snow is mostly gone due to sublimation from the passage of many car tires-we stud you up some tires and you could make a go of it. I live in Palinville and have made the trip into town on the bike in the winter, I wouldn't want to do it as a commute though.

The bigger trouble is finding suitable tires to fit a cruiser type bike. You need knobbies or very agressive 80/20's, one local studded up his Saber and rode it all winter but he lives in town. Check in over at advrider/alaska forum, we're getting together for a studding party and there will surely be leftover studs. You find the tires, we'll get you going.

waptang
Nov 30, 2003

Phat_Albert posted:

I know its not a question, but this isnt worth its own thread.

Holy gently caress this is a steal if you dont mind doing some wrenching.

http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/mcy/872904041.html

Thats a fuckload of bike for not much dough.

Similarly, a fuckload of bikes...

http://indianapolis.craigslist.org/mcy/872994627.html

Chris Knight
Jun 5, 2002

me @ ur posts


Fun Shoe

waptang posted:

Similarly, a fuckload of bikes...

http://indianapolis.craigslist.org/mcy/872994627.html
Oh to live in Indiana and have a garage...

mr.belowaverage
Aug 16, 2004

we have an irc channel at #SA_MeetingWomen
I know the feeling. Once, I came very close to buying two container-loads of mid-70s to 82 era Fiat Spiders.

Not bikes, but oh the pain of letting that go over storage. :smith:

Z3n
Jul 21, 2007

I think the point is Z3n is a space cowboy on the edge of a frontier unknown to man, he's out there pushing the limits, trail braking into the abyss. Finding out where the edge of the razor is, turning to face the darkness and revving his 690 into it's vast gaze. You gotta live this to learn it bro.

Phat_Albert posted:

I know its not a question, but this isnt worth its own thread.

Holy gently caress this is a steal if you dont mind doing some wrenching.

http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/mcy/872904041.html

Thats a fuckload of bike for not much dough.

drat, if that out here...:(

skypunk
Apr 26, 2007

MY SMILE IS GONE FOR GOOD!

Gnomad posted:

Yeah it's batshit crazy but not riding makes me even crazier.

Seriously, I've never had a down in the winter, although I came close once coming home from the local Brown Jug and grabbed way too much front brake...saved it though, thank goodness. That would have shook the beer up.

I'm sure you remember how the highway is in the winter. Right after it snows it isn't fit for man or beast, I wouldn't attempt riding those days due to the cages rolling about like so many carnivorous billiard balls. After say 3 days to a week, the snow is mostly gone due to sublimation from the passage of many car tires-we stud you up some tires and you could make a go of it. I live in Palinville and have made the trip into town on the bike in the winter, I wouldn't want to do it as a commute though.

The bigger trouble is finding suitable tires to fit a cruiser type bike. You need knobbies or very agressive 80/20's, one local studded up his Saber and rode it all winter but he lives in town. Check in over at advrider/alaska forum, we're getting together for a studding party and there will surely be leftover studs. You find the tires, we'll get you going.

My girlfriend's uncle lives out in Palmer and rides a custom cruiser into the docks 365 days a year. You may have seen his crazy long red hair on the Glenn.

I'll see what happens when I get back up there.

kcer
May 28, 2004

Today is good weather
for an airstrike.
Leaving work today, I hopped on the bike and was a bit too eager to get the kick stand up, and knocked the bike into gear, stalling it. On it's own I thought nothing of it, and the following may just be coincidence, but on the ride home the gears felt a lot harder than usual to change. I've not changed my foot position that I know and while on a quiet road, I had a look down while changing gear to make sure I wasn't resting on the rod connecting to rubber - I thought I might be pressing down the on the lever arm. That's problem 1.

Problem 2 I noticed while adjusting my right trouser leg while at a red light. I'm sitting in 1st with the clutch held and right foot on the brake. When I go to adjust my trousers the bike starts pulling forward. Not very strongly, but enough to make me grab the front brake in super quick time. This was on a perfectly level road, and I double checked when I got home - same thing. I knocked it into neutral and back to 1st and tried again - just to satiate my admittedly lackluster knowledge - with the same results. Now I should mention here that since buying the bike, the clutch lever has always had a lot of play. So much so that it's worn a small nook into the left side fairing while locked. Of the approx. 3.5 - 4 inches the clutch lever moves through, only the last inch and a half is tight. So yeah, lots of play.

To me it just seems like the clutch cable has reached it's life. I called a lad at work, and he concurred, but also suggested the rev limiter is set too high but admitted it didn't sound like it when he sees it. He gave me the number of a guy he trusts to work on his bike so I'll call him tomorrow morning, but I was wondering what AI think too.

The bike's a 2002 YZF600R with 25k on the clock. I was told that it's never had any major work done, and it passed it's major service 4 months before I bought it.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

kcer posted:

suggested the rev limiter is set too high but admitted it didn't sound like it when he sees it.
Idle?

kcer
May 28, 2004

Today is good weather
for an airstrike.
D'oh, yes I meant idle, not limit.

Atomic Hotdog
Aug 23, 2007
I've never seen such confident, powerful strokes of the ass!
I'm a bit scared. So my dad called me today and told me he just realized that he put a bit of the wrong brake fluid in my bike before I came up to college. He said before I left, he noticed the level was a bit low, so he added just a wee bit to top it off. He told me it couldn't of been more than an ounce. My SV650 takes DOT4, and he put in DOT3. He's got me a bit paranoid because he's telling me some serious damage could happen.
I called a local dealership about bleeding my brakes and replaced all the fluid and such, but I can't get it done til next week.

How worried should I be? :(

Simkin
May 18, 2007

"He says he's going to be number one!"
DOT 3 and 4 play nice together, no need to worry. Silicon based DOT5 would be problematic, if it were mixed in, but unless he happened to have that lying around, you should be golden. Just thank your dad for being awesome and making sure your brakes don't fail, causing you to die.

Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester
Oct 3, 2000
i'd be concerned but i'm not sure how much. the wrong kind of fluid could eat the seals in the brake system couldn't it? and if so then the brakes would probably just be gone. however if that's true, you're probably gonna see it leaking brake fluid somewhere before it all blows out, so you might get some warning. i think.

Z3n
Jul 21, 2007

I think the point is Z3n is a space cowboy on the edge of a frontier unknown to man, he's out there pushing the limits, trail braking into the abyss. Finding out where the edge of the razor is, turning to face the darkness and revving his 690 into it's vast gaze. You gotta live this to learn it bro.

kcer posted:

Leaving work today, I hopped on the bike and was a bit too eager to get the kick stand up, and knocked the bike into gear, stalling it. On it's own I thought nothing of it, and the following may just be coincidence, but on the ride home the gears felt a lot harder than usual to change. I've not changed my foot position that I know and while on a quiet road, I had a look down while changing gear to make sure I wasn't resting on the rod connecting to rubber - I thought I might be pressing down the on the lever arm. That's problem 1.

Problem 2 I noticed while adjusting my right trouser leg while at a red light. I'm sitting in 1st with the clutch held and right foot on the brake. When I go to adjust my trousers the bike starts pulling forward. Not very strongly, but enough to make me grab the front brake in super quick time. This was on a perfectly level road, and I double checked when I got home - same thing. I knocked it into neutral and back to 1st and tried again - just to satiate my admittedly lackluster knowledge - with the same results. Now I should mention here that since buying the bike, the clutch lever has always had a lot of play. So much so that it's worn a small nook into the left side fairing while locked. Of the approx. 3.5 - 4 inches the clutch lever moves through, only the last inch and a half is tight. So yeah, lots of play.

To me it just seems like the clutch cable has reached it's life. I called a lad at work, and he concurred, but also suggested the rev limiter is set too high but admitted it didn't sound like it when he sees it. He gave me the number of a guy he trusts to work on his bike so I'll call him tomorrow morning, but I was wondering what AI think too.

The bike's a 2002 YZF600R with 25k on the clock. I was told that it's never had any major work done, and it passed it's major service 4 months before I bought it.

You just need to adjust the clutch. If the adjustment is all out at the top, then adjust it from where the cable goes into the clutch cover...there should be another adjuster down there. If both of those are adjusted, you may need a new cable, or it may be time to do the clutch. If it wasn't abused, though, the clutch should be fine.

I'm going to bet :10bux: that you just need to adjust it.

quote:

DOT 3 and 4 play nice together, no need to worry. Silicon based DOT5 would be problematic, if it were mixed in, but unless he happened to have that lying around, you should be golden. Just thank your dad for being awesome and making sure your brakes don't fail, causing you to die.

That's my understanding of it as well.

Gnomad
Aug 12, 2008

AlaskaGrpwn posted:

My girlfriend's uncle lives out in Palmer and rides a custom cruiser into the docks 365 days a year. You may have seen his crazy long red hair on the Glenn.

I'll see what happens when I get back up there.

I'm pretty sure I know that guy, (James?) and he's absolutely hardcore to a degree that would make normal superheros weep in shame. He has this CB350 that he burned down, on the flats......on New Year Eve. At -10ºF.

I don't know about you, but after working on the docks in the middle of winter with the wind and water turning the docks into a fairy wonderland, the last thing I want ot do is get on the bike for a trip home. And yet he does that very thing.

Gnomad
Aug 12, 2008
I wouldn't worry about mixing DOT 3 and 4, and since DOT 5 is about the hardest stuff to actually buy (I needed some for my Buell) it's very unlikely that he picked up DOT5 off the shelf. You would want to get the fluid changed and that should be done every year, ideally.

If you're terribly worried, you could use a clean, not ever used for any other purpose big horse syringe or turkey baster, suck the old fluid from your resovoir and add DOT FREAKIN 4, but while doing this DO NOT DO NOT DO NOT so much as touch the brake lever or you will get the crash course in brake bleeding.

What you never want in the brake system is any kind of petroleum product, grease, oil, hydraulic fluid, etc. Petroleum products eat the rubber seals and will have instant brake failure.

huplescat
Jun 8, 2005

Phat_Albert posted:

Heres a question. The Bandit doesnt have a clock, and this bugs me. I see plenty of stick-on battery operated clocks. Those are all well and good, but I do a significant amount of night riding.

What I want, and I know this is asking alot, is a clock with a backlight powered by the bike that would go on and off with the ignition.

Does such an animal exist?

Yep, it's called a wrist watch strapped to the handlebar :) Doesn't turn off with the ignition, but it doesn't really matter.

Backlit, waterproof and it ain't falling off in a hurry. Bonus is that if it gets pinched it costs less than $20 to replace. I spent ages searching for a clock for my bike until someone suggested a watch.


I've been told that quite a few bikes aren't being made with centrestands these days (CBR's for one) and can't for the life of me figure out why this is other than maybe the design not allowing for it. Seems like it'd be a gigantic pain in the arse not having one as I use mine quite a lot.

ail
Jul 8, 2003

by The Finn
Why does my f4i's front brake lever seem to become progressively 'softer' over time? It seems like I have to apply a greater amount of pressure to get a full, thick grip on the disc than I did previously. This is a repeated occurrence; last time, I cycled out some fluid and added some more, and it helped for a while, but has returned. I have the washer out to fullest extension.

It happens on my brother's year-later (but same EBC pads) model F4i as well.

Vidaeus
Jan 27, 2007

Cats are gonna cat.
I have a 2006 Honda VTR250 and want to be able to jack the bike up so chain maintenance etc is easier. I bought a rear wheel paddock stand similar to this and the matching knob thingies that you screw into your swingarm. However, when I got home, I realised that there is no place for me to screw the little knob things in. I have since returned the rear wheel jack and the knobs.

I'd really like for some way to jack the bike up, whether its the whole bike or just the rear wheel but I'm not sure what my options are. I am new to bikes so I don't have much of an idea what I can do. Any thoughts?

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




Vidaeus posted:

I have a 2006 Honda VTR250 and want to be able to jack the bike up so chain maintenance etc is easier. I bought a rear wheel paddock stand similar to this and the matching knob thingies that you screw into your swingarm. However, when I got home, I realised that there is no place for me to screw the little knob things in. I have since returned the rear wheel jack and the knobs.

I'd really like for some way to jack the bike up, whether its the whole bike or just the rear wheel but I'm not sure what my options are. I am new to bikes so I don't have much of an idea what I can do. Any thoughts?

You can actually use the stand you linked without the bobbins (the knob thingies). It just supports the bottom of the swingarm.

Uthor
Jul 9, 2006

Gummy Bear Heaven ... It's where I go when the world is too mean.

Vidaeus posted:

I have a 2006 Honda VTR250 and want to be able to jack the bike up so chain maintenance etc is easier. I bought a rear wheel paddock stand similar to this and the matching knob thingies that you screw into your swingarm. However, when I got home, I realised that there is no place for me to screw the little knob things in. I have since returned the rear wheel jack and the knobs.

I'd really like for some way to jack the bike up, whether its the whole bike or just the rear wheel but I'm not sure what my options are. I am new to bikes so I don't have much of an idea what I can do. Any thoughts?

It's not the most useful thing in the world as it doesn't lift the wheel off the ground, but I use a Rollastand to help me with cleaning my chain. It works wonders for me because I live in an apartment and carrying a jack or a stand up and down stairs is not much of an option.

You can get a motorcycle jack at any autoparts store for $80-$90.

Vidaeus
Jan 27, 2007

Cats are gonna cat.
Thanks for the replies. The stand I linked to isn't exactly the same as the one I bought; I'm not sure if it had the padded plates that go under the swingarm. The guy at the shop told me I needed those bobbins with it so I'm guessing I probably couldn't use that particular model.

I saw a "Dirt bike jack" at my local auto shop that looks like it goes under the centre of the bike, but I'm not sure if my VTR250 is designed to be jacked up at that point as its the bottom of the engine block. Anyone have any more experience?

Fantastipotamus
Nov 19, 2002

Nothing's wrong. Nothing is wrong. Everything is on track.
Well, after the first time out on some trails, and her crashing a bunch of times, we've determined that we need to make some adjustments to my fiances KL250 Sherpa. She seems convinced that she needs to sell it, but a dirtbike with a really low seat height, and legalize it for the road, and I'm more of the mind that we need to modify the already legal Sherpa to suit her needs.

Basically, it's ALL seat height at this point, as when she comes to a stop, she is on the very tip-toes. And after crashing a few times on the trails we were on (enough to bend the stock bars), her confidence is basically shot, so much so that even riding on some dirt roads, she was exceptionally nervous.

Here's what we've got for options:
a) I found some lowering links online, which should lower the back about an inch and a half, but she needs new tires, which will cut into that (the current tires are moderately worn) by .75" or so (estimate). I'm of the opinion that lowering links plus shaving the seat should get her where she needs to be, but she's not sure. So, our other option:

b) Sell the Sherpa for basically what we've got into it (we replaced the bars, and it's still basically perfect), pick up a new or used small dirtbike (this would depend entirely on seat height, not displacement, though I think a 2-stroke would be out), and then get it legal on the road. Lights, horn, blinkers, etc. Is this as big of a fuckin' pain as I think it's going to be?

c) find a lower seat-height, dual-sport option? I thought we'd basically found the lowest-seat-height option in the Sherpa, but frankly, I'm not entirely convinced as we kinda had to move on it pretty quick.

To give you an idea what we're after seat-height wise, her road bike is a Ninja 250 with a shaved seat that she can pretty much flat foot on. So, maybe.. 26" seat height or so? We're basically looking at those ~85cc learner dirtbikes for the young moto-x-er. Given that they don't seem to be wired for much in terms of electronics, I'm assuming it would be a loving drag to legalize one of these for the road.

Or I guess we pick up a trailer. :(

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




Vidaeus posted:

Thanks for the replies. The stand I linked to isn't exactly the same as the one I bought; I'm not sure if it had the padded plates that go under the swingarm. The guy at the shop told me I needed those bobbins with it so I'm guessing I probably couldn't use that particular model.

I saw a "Dirt bike jack" at my local auto shop that looks like it goes under the centre of the bike, but I'm not sure if my VTR250 is designed to be jacked up at that point as its the bottom of the engine block. Anyone have any more experience?

As long as the exhaust isnt under there, you'll probably be fine.

Bugdrvr
Mar 7, 2003

How do you guys clean your motorcycle gear?

My Joe Rocket jacket is about three years old now and kinda smells like it's been ridden by a sweaty motorcyclist for three years without being washed. I read the little label and it says, "No dry cleaning, no machine wash, don't soak in water.".

How am I supposed to clean the drat thing? I can't imagine rubbing it with a damp cloth is going to do much more than make it smell worse.

Z3n
Jul 21, 2007

I think the point is Z3n is a space cowboy on the edge of a frontier unknown to man, he's out there pushing the limits, trail braking into the abyss. Finding out where the edge of the razor is, turning to face the darkness and revving his 690 into it's vast gaze. You gotta live this to learn it bro.

Bugdrvr posted:

How do you guys clean your motorcycle gear?

My Joe Rocket jacket is about three years old now and kinda smells like it's been ridden by a sweaty motorcyclist for three years without being washed. I read the little label and it says, "No dry cleaning, no machine wash, don't soak in water.".

How am I supposed to clean the drat thing? I can't imagine rubbing it with a damp cloth is going to do much more than make it smell worse.

Leather cleaner and conditioner.

Bugdrvr
Mar 7, 2003

Z3n posted:

Leather cleaner and conditioner.

I should have mentioned it's textile with suede or something shoulder and elbow patches.
I'm mostly concerned with the inside though. I've kept up on bug removal on the outside so it still looks presentable.

WHEEZY KISS A DUDE
Dec 28, 2000

ASK ME HOW TO GET FREE BEER!
(THE ANSWER IS "CHEATING GOONS OUT OF IT")

Fantastipotamus posted:

HALP THE BIEK IS TOO TALL!

You could always take the bike to an offroad shop and tell them you'd like to lower the seat height of the bike to an acceptable level while still maintaining the ride. They might be able to help you out with something.

Also, unless you plan to get her a pitbike and make that street legal (which I would NOT recommend!), she's gonna be out of luck. Even the Yamaha TTR125 (for which you can purchase a full, street-legal DS kit from Baja Designs) is 30.5 inches of seat height, which is only 1.4 inches less than the Sherpa.

Maybe buy her a pair of those platform Alpinestars boots the Moto-hos wear at the AMA Nationals?

Bugdrvr posted:

I should have mentioned it's textile with suede or something shoulder and elbow patches.
I'm mostly concerned with the inside though. I've kept up on bug removal on the outside so it still looks presentable.

Just take it to the dry cleaner's, if you can afford it.

EDIT: WOW, totally missed the No Dry Cleaning thing. I guess I just glossed over it because my Icon jacket is actually Dry Clean Only.

Another edit: I didn't know where to post this, either in the Craigslist Gold thread or in here or in any of the other Motorcycle threads on here, but if there's anyone near Virginia that's looking for a good deal on an exotic litrebike, I just sumbled across this on Craigslist: 2002 Aprilia RSV 12k miles for $6250 http://richmond.craigslist.org/mcy/872828716.html

WHEEZY KISS A DUDE fucked around with this message at 04:51 on Oct 12, 2008

ail
Jul 8, 2003

by The Finn

DOOKIE ROPES YO posted:

Just take it to the dry cleaner's, if you can afford it.

Do not dry clean, right on the label.

My JR 3-year-old mesh smells a bit musty, but not too bad. I just sprayed it with some febreeze and let it out in the windy air for a bit.

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




I rode for 200 miles in the rain in my Joe Rocket textile jacket, then threw it in the dryer. It seems fine to me.

skypunk
Apr 26, 2007

MY SMILE IS GONE FOR GOOD!

Gnomad posted:

I'm pretty sure I know that guy, (James?) and he's absolutely hardcore to a degree that would make normal superheros weep in shame. He has this CB350 that he burned down, on the flats......on New Year Eve. At -10ºF.

I don't know about you, but after working on the docks in the middle of winter with the wind and water turning the docks into a fairy wonderland, the last thing I want ot do is get on the bike for a trip home. And yet he does that very thing.

Sounds like her Uncle James.

Like a really cold Batman...

OrangeFurious
Oct 14, 2005

Ce n'est pas une St. Furious.
My Thruxton intermittently stalls when I coast with the clutch lever in. I haven't been able to pin-point anything, but have noticed it occurs more often when I'm going downhill and when I've been laying on the throttle. I cannot consistently reproduce it, but the most common scenario is cresting the top of a suspension bridge near my home at 80+ mph, pulling in the clutch for the descent, and the needle on the tach dropping to zero at which point it's off.

Any ideas? I'm on a 2007 Triumph Thruxton, air-cooled parallel twin.

shaitan
Mar 8, 2004
g.d.m.f.s.o.b.
whenever I go on rides of 50+ miles (did my first 100 mile day yesterday!), my right hand starts acting funky. I have problems opening it up all the way (extending my fingers) and my pinky gives me the hardest problem. This will go on for hours after the ride has stopped. I suspect it's my grip but I don't know how else I'm supposed to hold onto the throttle unless i'm...well...holding it. Any tips on adjusting my grip?

My bike is a Ninja 250, so it could be partly due to the vibration.

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teknicolor
Jul 18, 2004

I Want to Meet That Dad!
Do Da Doo Doo

shaitan posted:

whenever I go on rides of 50+ miles (did my first 100 mile day yesterday!), my right hand starts acting funky. I have problems opening it up all the way (extending my fingers) and my pinky gives me the hardest problem. This will go on for hours after the ride has stopped. I suspect it's my grip but I don't know how else I'm supposed to hold onto the throttle unless i'm...well...holding it. Any tips on adjusting my grip?

My bike is a Ninja 250, so it could be partly due to the vibration.

Try getting a crampbuster. It helps me out a lot on long trips. Before I had it, I'd have to release the throttle every now and then to shake my hand to get feeling back in my pinky and thumb. This little thing helps a LOT.

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