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What's it from?
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Oct 15, 2016 21:17
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| # ? May 4, 2024 19:16 |
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:What's it from? Zx14r 2011. From what I can tell I actually won't have to cut the battery box at all. However I keep reading "adjust it as much as you can beforehand" but then reading very contradictory things as to what to adjust it to. I chose that one because with gear im probably ~230lbs , and also they are readily available. It was $80 shipped
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Oct 16, 2016 01:10
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I got it in, was really quite easy.  When I was looking up how other people did this I noticed that every single person had trouble unscrewing the battery box bracket. A lot were making cobbled together tools and saying it actually took longer than the rest of the install. I too hit that problem, but found this to work:   It was an extension, swivel joint, and a Phillips socket all from a cheap rear end harbor freight tool kit. It was able to access every screw, in case anybody else here is going to do this. Also its pretty important to have the rear swingarm supported throughout this to get the bolts in and out. I used a swingarm stand to lift the rear pegs onto jack stands (which are flipped over so they don't bend in). Then I moved the stand closer in to support the swingarm but not put any tension on the suspension. Especially for one dogbone bolt, you can wiggle the stand up and down to line up all the holes easily. I only rode for a short while but the rear suspension is extremely different. Probably better, though I can't say that yet until I really test it and mess with the settings. Far stiffer for sure and no longer sags when I sit on it Edit: definitely better. It doesn't dump down when I shift hard anymore. Now I'm dying to fix the front end diving penus penus penus fucked around with this message at 02:54 on Oct 24, 2016 |
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Oct 23, 2016 02:29
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Flipping the pegs was clever as gently caress. Good work. On my fzr I inserted a pipe into the frame and put stands on wooden boxes to swap my suspension... Flipping the pegs would have been way easier.
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Oct 24, 2016 21:46
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XYLOPAGUS posted:Flipping the pegs was clever as gently caress. Good work. I cant take credit for that one though I do recommend it. I saw how a lot of people were explaining how to use ladders and tie downs and I thought it was all pretty wonky and I saw someone say something like "or you can just flip the footpegs". Turns out it really is that easy and elegant and its dead stable cause they fit right into the U portion of the jackstand. I zip tied the front brake as well which was a big part of it but it was more stable than being on a rear stand alone.
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Oct 24, 2016 23:10
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My bike has a LSL handlebar conversion on it (this one). I figured it'd be a plus for a first bike but after 6 months or so I'm more and more convinced I just want the factory clip ons. I know, I'm weird. I actually taped some rods on at the factory height and it fits like a glove, though I can understand the complaints between the two heights. Also I want to move the rearsets higher. This goes against the grain from what I've read for people in my height range (6'2") but everytime I really exaggerate my foot position on my tippy toes I am more comfortable overall on the whole bike. Basically my legs get closer to the grooves and it feels like it "fits" and its easier to lean and stuff. Fortunately the handlebar looks like it has some value ... if I can even sell it, but I may be able to convert back to stock clip ons without losing much if anything, if I buy salvaged parts. I have no factory parts though. I just want to fact check about the parts I'd need. So far I believe I'd need the upper triple tree and new brake lines. Is there anything else I'm missing? Is there a good reason to look to aftermarket parts for this? Also there appear to be tons of cheap clip ons on ebay, should I just avoid these altogether? It doesn't seem to be a technically advanced part in any way but being as its critical to my survival I dont want to chance it if they explode or something. Unless its solvable with loctite. For the rearsets, is there any issue with just getting rearset offset plates? Hard to believe that the brake lines by far are the most expensive component here as well.
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Nov 11, 2016 00:18
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Alright so the bike is running great, but there's one thing: it's getting an average of 30 mpg. I got gas yesterday with 120 miles on the clock and filled up 4 gallons. That's worse than the civic. Bike is an 05 with m4 full exhaust, tank spacers and a power commander III. I did notice a 47 tooth rear sprocket, but I'm not feeling like a chain and sprocket job any time soon if I can avoid it. Could a "tune for power" really make it do that poorly on fuel economy? My plan was to load the default map from dynojet for a bike with full exhaust and see how it improves... Tbh I wish the exhaust was quieter and that I had provisions for a passenger so we'll see how long I keep this exhaust.
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Nov 22, 2016 16:20
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XYLOPAGUS posted:Could a "tune for power" really make it do that poorly on fuel economy? Yes. With a slip on yoshi only, mpg was down to the mid/upper 40s. With a full exhaust, airbox, and a tune to throw fuel at it, I could see it dipping that low. For noise, I agree, the M4 is some loud garbage. People love them, though. I found my yoshimura to be amazing, if a little loud. If I was going to put up with an uncomfortably loud SV650, it would have a SuperTrapp on it. You could stock out, but it's hard to go back after hearing the vtwin glory through a proper exhaust. Brands like yoshi have DB killers you can install. Maybe M4 has one, too. You'd have to change the tune for that, though. Kind of a waste of a full system, too.
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Nov 22, 2016 19:07
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M4 makes exhausts other than the megaphone one 
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Nov 22, 2016 23:24
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BlackMK4 posted:M4 makes exhausts other than the megaphone one Sure, but do they SELL any of them? I've never seen one that wasn't one of those "PHAT SHORTY EM-FOUR BRO LEMME REV IT WITHOUT LOAD SO YOU CAN HEAR HOW GOOD IT IS" types.
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Nov 22, 2016 23:46
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Well, the M4 full exhaust with the normal can is known to make the best power of any SV exhaust off the shelf.... iirc.
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Nov 22, 2016 23:53
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BlackMK4 posted:Well, the M4 full exhaust with the normal can is known to make the best power of any SV exhaust off the shelf.... iirc. Yep and that's what's mounted to the bike right now.
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Nov 23, 2016 03:53
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Put the baffle in. Who tuned it? Sprocket will make a bigger difference mileage wise.
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Nov 23, 2016 05:04
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BlackMK4 posted:Well, the M4 full exhaust with the normal can is known to make the best power of any SV exhaust off the shelf.... iirc. I was not aware of this. Wow that's great to have, then. My view of M4 was just that it's the exhaust you get when you are cheap and want a cheap exhaust because all you want is loud. I'm still getting used to the grand idea that a full exhaust, header specifically, adds power in ways other than making the hole bigger. 
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Nov 23, 2016 07:09
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I wish I had the brackets for the M4 can that came with my SV. It's got a 2bros on there now, but that one has a small dent/crack in it on the leading edge of the can from the PO's crash on it, so it leaks some exhaust out the crack before the baffles. It's a tiny crack, but it's enough to add noticeably to the sound. Anyone know where I can get the front flange and hanger brackets for an old-style M4 slipon for a first gen? 
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Nov 23, 2016 08:20
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Anyone removed the baffle on a stock 2nd gen exhaust? I'd like a bit more throatiness but I don't want to drop like $800 on a PCV, pipe and dyno time (have I mentioned I like FI but miss carb jets?). I see people on YouTube drilling them out and then hammering the gently caress out of them with a pipe and mallet like a caveman, but I figure as long as you can completely separate the baffle from the pipe it should just slide out, no?
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Dec 30, 2016 17:42
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Anyone removed the baffle on a stock 2nd gen exhaust? I'd like a bit more throatiness but I don't want to drop like $800 on a PCV, pipe and dyno time (have I mentioned I like FI but miss carb jets?). Everything I've read involves hammering the poo poo out of them. I put a Yoshi slip-on on the SV I just picked up, and other than some popping (which comes from the air injection, apparently), I haven't noticed any differences in how it runs. I think you're ok not remapping the FI, especially if you leave the dB killer in.
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Dec 30, 2016 19:08
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bump to keep out of archives
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Jan 22, 2017 09:56
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I'm taking my naked 2003 SV to the track, anything I should know before I go? First track day ever by the way Also, I've got one electrical gremlin, my rev counter doesn't work. Everything else on the dash works - is there a quick fix for this? primitive fucked around with this message at 07:42 on Feb 25, 2017 |
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Feb 25, 2017 07:40
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Make sure the connections are good at the speedo end and the ECU end I guess. It would be nice if the SV did a gauge sweep on power on, that way you could know if the stepper motor in the tach was dead or if it's somewhere in the wiring loom
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Feb 25, 2017 14:37
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Swapped out the throttle cables on my SV. The boots that attach to the throttle bodies are so old and stiff. What can I do to help get the throttle body back on them? Heat gun and grease?
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Feb 25, 2017 16:58
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Make sure the connections are good at the speedo end and the ECU end I guess. It would be nice if the SV did a gauge sweep on power on, that way you could know if the stepper motor in the tach was dead or if it's somewhere in the wiring loom No sweep, does that mean it's just the silly motor that's died?? Or are you saying that the SV doesn't do a sweep so you can't tell...
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Feb 25, 2017 17:24
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primitive posted:No sweep, does that mean it's just the silly motor that's died?? The latter part. No stock SV does a gauge sweep
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Feb 25, 2017 18:28
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I got rid of my Fireblade and have begun the search for a lovely first generation SV. Found one locally for like $500 but it was gone before I could pick it up.
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Apr 7, 2017 21:28
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One of us, one of us!!!
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Apr 7, 2017 23:28
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Any UK gunes interested in a SV 650? I'm getting ready to put it on Autotrader for £1200 but will do it for £800 to a forum member It's a fully functional MY 2003 N, 32k miles, will service and replace front tire before passing it on Selling because I just did my first track day and I want to buy a S with clip ons for track duty Located London SW4
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Apr 8, 2017 21:33
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loving tempting but I wont have my full licence until next month.
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Apr 14, 2017 20:01
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Keket posted:loving tempting but I wont have my full licence until next month. Yea it was / is my first big bike, I won't actually sell it on until I do a service and replace the front tire I melted at the track so you've got time to pass your Mod 2  I'll get pictures up soon, it's a brilliant bike and you really can't go wrong
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Apr 16, 2017 17:36
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So I removed my throttle bodies, swapped out all of the throttle body and airbox boots, added new throttle cables, and now my bike idles at 3500. It's a 2003 sv650. I tried adjusting the idle screw and it doesn't seem to help. Any idea what could have happened? It doesn't seem to have anything to do with the throttle cable adjustment as the throttle is closing completely.
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Apr 16, 2017 18:02
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Partial Octopus posted:So I removed my throttle bodies, swapped out all of the throttle body and airbox boots, added new throttle cables, and now my bike idles at 3500. It's a 2003 sv650. I tried adjusting the idle screw and it doesn't seem to help. Any idea what could have happened? It doesn't seem to have anything to do with the throttle cable adjustment as the throttle is closing completely. Ya done introduced an air leak somewhere
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Apr 16, 2017 19:39
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primitive posted:Yea it was / is my first big bike, I won't actually sell it on until I do a service and replace the front tire I melted at the track so you've got time to pass your Mod 2 Yeah keep me in the loop. Planning on booking my test when my next paycheck comes through so sometime at the end of next month maybe?
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Apr 18, 2017 17:50
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Keket posted:Yeah keep me in the loop. Planning on booking my test when my next paycheck comes through so sometime at the end of next month maybe? No worries, don't need to move it any time soon
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Apr 18, 2017 21:34
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My K8 S seems to be burning oil. I put about 250 miles on it a week and I'm having to top it up quite a lot (after last oil & filter change 3500 miles ago, it's had about 4 additional litres in it). This is my first proper workhorse commuting bike, so I'm not sure if this is normal, or if not, what the deal is? She rides well, but sometimes you're never sure if you're just used to the tiny incremental performance deficits. But she's certainly not running rough. EDIT: oh, and to address the obvious question, no leaking. She has sat for up to a week in the same spot and not a drip of oil. Captain Cancer fucked around with this message at 11:10 on Apr 21, 2017 |
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Apr 21, 2017 10:24
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Does it smoke? Usually you can see or smell when a bike is burning oil.
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Apr 21, 2017 12:49
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Not at all that I've observed, and I've been keeping my eye out, both when out and about and when just sitting there revving it. So if it has, it's not been completely obvious. Certainly doesn't help that I'm largely pig ignorant mechanically, so it's just a mystery to me at the moment. Every time I check it, it seems to be back at the empty line.
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Apr 21, 2017 13:07
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primitive posted:I'm taking my naked 2003 SV to the track, anything I should know before I go? Brands? I've been considering a track day, but need to invest in some leathers. Also doesn't help that my only biking buddy got done recently by a U-turning drunk driving idiot and broke both his knees we had so much planned this summer.
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Apr 21, 2017 13:17
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Turns out, those super expensive rare seat cowl infills that you can never find for SV's? You can just 3D print them now. https://www.dropbox.com/s/96t63dnkz4mits6/Grad%20handle%20infill%20rev2.STL?dl=0 Credit to this guy: https://www.reddit.com/r/SVRiders/comments/6bympl/3d_printed_some_grab_bar_infills/
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May 22, 2017 19:05
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Print that loving cowl and then we'll talk
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May 22, 2017 19:14
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No kidding, to be fair the infills are still nice to get rid of the grab bar
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May 22, 2017 19:22
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M42 posted:Print that loving cowl and then we'll talk There are a bunch of non OEM cowls on eBay these days. Are those trash? MetaJew fucked around with this message at 19:52 on May 22, 2017 |
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May 22, 2017 19:48
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