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Jack the Smack posted:You can literally grab both the positive and the negative parts with wet fingers and you wont get anything more than a tingling sensation. Can somebody confirm or deny this?
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Feb 19, 2009 04:18
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Captain Apollo posted:Can somebody confirm or deny this? http://tinyurl.com/cajw3w first result. quote:If a normal healthy person (without a pacemaker) touches the two terminals of a 12 volt car battery while this battery is disconnected and away from the car there is absolutely no chance that you will be injured. If there is a particularly good connection and your hands are wet you might feel a tingle. So if the bike is turned on you may wanna be careful. Charles 1998 fucked around with this message at 07:05 on Feb 19, 2009 |
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Feb 19, 2009 07:03
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Jack the Smack posted:You can literally grab both the positive and the negative parts with wet fingers and you wont get anything more than a tingling sensation. Just be careful if you're wearing anything conductive. If you short the terminals, the battery can deliver huge amounts of current (since it has to do this to run the starter), which will heat or even melt the conductor. And burn whatever it's touching. People have lost fingers wearing rings, for example.
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Feb 21, 2009 18:49
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So it looks like Suzuki won't be selling the 650S in the States for 2009. I really like the V-Twin and the bikini fairing. Suzuki still offers this combo in the V-Strom, a bike I know nothing about. Same engine. It looks like it has a pretty upright profile, too. Anybody ever ridden one?
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Feb 24, 2009 19:43
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It's a big, comfy bike, that is nicely suited to touring around, and some light off-road (fire roads ahoy!). It has brilliant ergos, and with fuel injection, it's a doddle to ride around. It also makes a pretty nice noise. Go test ride one if you can find one.
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Feb 24, 2009 20:07
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elsanto posted:So it looks like Suzuki won't be selling the 650S in the States for 2009. I really like the V-Twin and the bikini fairing. Suzuki still offers this combo in the V-Strom, a bike I know nothing about. Same engine. It looks like it has a pretty upright profile, too. Anybody ever ridden one? The SV650N is being discontinued in the US (replaced by the gladius) but the SV650S will continue. I'm not quite sure which bike you're refering to.
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Feb 24, 2009 20:14
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Z3n posted:The SV650N is being discontinued in the US (replaced by the gladius) but the SV650S will continue. I'm not quite sure which bike you're refering to. Looks like the internet agrees with you. Suzuki's website doesn't have a 2009 SV650S up yet, which threw me. I was under the impression that both the naked and the S were going away.
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Feb 24, 2009 21:00
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elsanto posted:Looks like the internet agrees with you. Suzuki's website doesn't have a 2009 SV650S up yet, which threw me. I was under the impression that both the naked and the S were going away. That was my initial impression as well, but I recall checking into it a while back and realizing that only the SV650N was going. The 2009 SV650 will likely just be exactly the same as all of the previous models.
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Feb 24, 2009 22:59
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Hey dudes. Need some help. Whenever I get my bike up to a constant 85mph, which is around 6 grand rpm, it'll go for a minute or two and then lose power all of a sudden. Then when my heart is good and racing it lets out this HUGE backfire and then goes right back to having all throttle control. Ideas? Seems to happen with the bike around 6grand in any gear.
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Mar 4, 2009 18:08
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Sounds like a "high speed miss." You lose spark for a while and fuel is allowed to accumulate in the cylinder. When the spark comes back it all ignites as it goes out the exhaust, backfiring. You can do the same thing revving the engine up, hitting the kill switch, and holding it at WOT. When the RPMs have dropped significantly, turn the kill switch back to run. Ypu'll get a nice pop. Check out your ignition system, starting with the spark plugs and working to the CDI and coils.
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Mar 4, 2009 18:44
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How much should I expect the price to drop on a SV650 naked if the bike has less than 10,000 miles over it first year of life? Second year of life as well? I keep seeing bikes that are 07's with 5,000 miles and the owner has them listed for $5,000. These bikes list as $6,000 new on the website. Should I be expecting less than a 20% in value? I thought these bikes would be going for cheaper especially considering the economy right now.
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Mar 6, 2009 21:24
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Some of the higher priced used models are priced that way because the seller is trying to get back what they owe on it. Also, keep in mind that the $6,000 sticker price of a new bike does not include tax, title, registration, dealer fees, shipping, etc. Most of the extra costs could potentially put the final price closer to $8,000.
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Mar 6, 2009 21:52
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Anyone do their own valve adjustments? My SV is going track whore and is going to need it done within the next month and a half. Last interval I checked the clearances and didn't have to do anything, but judging by how they were last time there will almost certainly be some tight ones. If anyone has any advice on special tools I might need, shims, etc it would be appreciated. I have a service manual but the pictures and descriptions could be better, and I think I remember it actually being wrong when it was describing how to point the cams when checking clearance (I think the lobes had to be facing up and away from each other, haynes had them to be pointing down and towards, I'm pretty sure you would never have any valve clearance that way?). Anything else I should do while I'm in there like cam chain tensioner? Probably have to do a throttle body sync? Bleh. This will probably be the last time it needs to be done but it would be nice to save $400+ or whatever a shop would want to do it all. My street bike (tuono) will need a check in a few thou, and while that motor usually doesn't need adjustment I guess it would be nice to have all the tools I need around. Why'd I have to get V-twins ;|
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Mar 9, 2009 00:30
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Hey guys. Whenever I start up my 2001 SV on a hill, it gives me a nice, solid, loud click as the engine turns over. Normal? This seems to coincide with the oil pressure light going off, but it never does this on level ground. Only when pointed uphill.
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Mar 9, 2009 01:59
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TheUltimateCool posted:Hey guys. Whenever I start up my 2001 SV on a hill, it gives me a nice, solid, loud click as the engine turns over. Normal? This seems to coincide with the oil pressure light going off, but it never does this on level ground. Only when pointed uphill. Clarify? The light turns on, or the light turns off?
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Mar 9, 2009 05:38
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Posted this in the other bike thread but since this is the sv650 related one, what is the average cost of replacing the broken bits on this bike? eBay didnt have much of what I was looking for on either the headlight or instrument cluster. http://cincinnati.craigslist.org/mcy/1064084180.html Few other bikes in the 07 range that are about 4000-4500, but if it costs under a grand to make it pretty again it might be a decent deal. If it is the same area I am in it should only be about a minute or 2 away to get a full inspection of the bike.
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Mar 9, 2009 07:21
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Ahahaha, just got an email back, damage is a bit more than I had expected. Handlebar is bent, tank is smashed in, cluster LCD is hosed. Unless I find parts for that super cheap it just went over the average used price for my area. http://home.fuse.net/edge/racersedge/bike41.htm EDIT: Salvage title too, weeee
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Mar 9, 2009 07:26
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What do you have right now? Nothing? I like sv's. I do not like that bike. Honestly though, those things mentioned would probably be the only thing wrong with it. Replacing that stuff could be fun with the help of a motorcycle buddy! real edit: but salvage??? how hard is that going to be to gently caress with?
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Mar 9, 2009 09:03
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Captain Apollo posted:What do you have right now? Nothing? I have an 88 zx600. Ohio isnt the best for dealing with salvage titles, and it would basically destroy all resale value. I just want a 2nd bike so when I am tearing apart one for something (carbs, fork seals, tires, breaking 20 year old bolt on instrument panel) I have something else I can ride. 
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Mar 9, 2009 14:37
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Infinotize posted:Anyone do their own valve adjustments? My SV is going track whore and is going to need it done within the next month and a half. Last interval I checked the clearances and didn't have to do anything, but judging by how they were last time there will almost certainly be some tight ones. Find a cheap set of small screwdrivers, break the handles off, and then bend them so that you can retract the cam chain tensioners without removing them from the bike. Hold them in place with vice grips and you're good to go. Unless you have the special 'zook tool, which I've never had, it's pretty absurdly difficult to get the cam chain tensioner in while still holding the tensioned rod back via the slot in the back. Buy or borrow a complete set of shims. You're welcome to borrow mine if you'd like (e-mail me, PM), I think it may be missing a single size range from last time I loaned it out. Either way, the SV uses 7.48mm shims, which are used in a shitload of bikes. They're gonna be expensive at the shop (around 8$ a pop, usually), so if you have to adjust a number of them or plan on ever owning another bike that will use 7.48 shims, it's worth it. Plus the ease of just grabbing a shim out of the box, and tossing it in, rather than having to pull everything, measure them, see if you can swap shims anywhere, and then going to the dealership with a list of sizes, getting reamed on price, and then having to put it all back together. Plus, if you have the shims on hand, you don't have to rotate the engine while you've got the cams out, making getting them back into the correct location much, much easier. Rotax uses 10mm shims, which are apparently only shared by some KTMs and the V-Rod, so unfortunantly you can't double up there. I've always used Clymers manuals, and have been led wrong occasionally (no, you can't shove your finger down the CCT hole to prevent the chain from skipping links while you turn it over), but their diagrams are dead on (probably lifted directly from the factory manual). If you're paranoid about getting them back in dead on, turn the bike over till the timing mark for the front cylinder, check the clearences, and then if you have to pull them, take a picture of the location of the cams, dead on from the side. Then you can swap everything, and realign them according to the picture. If you're really desperate for accurate diagrams, I can take a picture out of my repair manual which I know is correct. Diet, that bike is worth maybe 2k at most. Scratch on the frame, damaged gauge cluster (expensive), tank (expensive). I personally wouldn't buy it unless I got it for 1500$ or less. Preferably less. Edit: UltimateCool, that click is probably your starter solenoid. I wouldn't be too concerned about it unless your bike stops starting on uphills. It's probably just a little sticky when it's tilted like that, so it's snapping shut loud enough to give you a click. Z3n fucked around with this message at 18:26 on Mar 9, 2009 |
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Mar 9, 2009 18:18
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Z3n posted:
Shot this over to him, can't wait for a reply back  "Since the bike has a salvage title and would need considerable repairs to register and make road worthy, would you consider anything lower (1500-2000)?"What is a reasonable price for an 07 in good condition?
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Mar 9, 2009 18:35
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dietcokefiend posted:Shot this over to him, can't wait for a reply back 4-5k.
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Mar 9, 2009 18:40
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Z3n posted:4-5k. Nice, that means this area is on par. A few spotless 07 sv650s are around here for about 4k. Since 07 was the first year to go dual spark plug with the different head, was there any problems associated with that? Also what sort of cylinder liners are on the sv650 models? Is it iron or the newer nickle plating that is seen on almost every other Suzuki bike?
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Mar 9, 2009 18:48
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dietcokefiend posted:Nice, that means this area is on par. A few spotless 07 sv650s are around here for about 4k. Since 07 was the first year to go dual spark plug with the different head, was there any problems associated with that? Also what sort of cylinder liners are on the sv650 models? Is it iron or the newer nickle plating that is seen on almost every other Suzuki bike? No problems with the dual spark heads as far as I'm aware. I'm 90% sure that they're iron.
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Mar 9, 2009 18:53
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Z3n posted:No problems with the dual spark heads as far as I'm aware. I'm 90% sure that they're iron. That new Gladius engine has that newer coating instead of liners. They dont mention that on the sv650sf, wonky.
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Mar 9, 2009 18:56
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dietcokefiend posted:That new Gladius engine has that newer coating instead of liners. They dont mention that on the sv650sf, wonky. Yeah. I'm pretty sure they're iron because I know people have done bores on the SV650, but it looks like that may be out on the gladius engine? It looks like it should fit the same mounts, so I wonder how long it'll be before some racer (or Zoran) ends up with a gladius engine and will see how much power it can take...
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Mar 9, 2009 19:05
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Z3n posted:Yeah. I'm pretty sure they're iron because I know people have done bores on the SV650, but it looks like that may be out on the gladius engine? It looks like it should fit the same mounts, so I wonder how long it'll be before some racer (or Zoran) ends up with a gladius engine and will see how much power it can take... Was the new engine supposed to be better (stronger) or just cheaper to make?
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Mar 9, 2009 19:11
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dietcokefiend posted:Was the new engine supposed to be better (stronger) or just cheaper to make? Who knows. The 2nd gen engine was supposed to be better (FI, blah blah blah) but it turns out that it'll snap the crank if you push over 80rwhp with mods. Gladius could have fixed that, could have not fixed that, but with the coating you can't hone to fit busa pistons (increased compression) and who knows if the cam swap will work anymore... Gen one bike is a lot more upgradable, gen 2 has some of those upgrades done...it's a mixed bag. I'm curious to see what happens with the gladius, though.
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Mar 9, 2009 19:54
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Z3n posted:Who knows. The 2nd gen engine was supposed to be better (FI, blah blah blah) but it turns out that it'll snap the crank if you push over 80rwhp with mods. Gladius could have fixed that, could have not fixed that, but with the coating you can't hone to fit busa pistons (increased compression) and who knows if the cam swap will work anymore... In stock engine configurations are there any problems or is it just when you start pushing it?
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Mar 9, 2009 20:27
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LOL. Have you looked at first gens?
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Mar 9, 2009 20:47
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dietcokefiend posted:In stock engine configurations are there any problems or is it just when you start pushing it? No, zero problems. 80hp is with a cam swap, flatslides, and a good full system on the bike, to get over that you're looking at some kind of engine work. I've heard that over 90 they start to run into transmission issues, but it'd take a lot of work to get an SV over 90, you'd have a time bomb anyways, so it's just a race to see if the engine goes or the transmission goes first.
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Mar 9, 2009 21:02
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dietcokefiend posted:In stock engine configurations are there any problems or is it just when you start pushing it? There is a reason so many people race sv's. I had full throttle for 2 HOURS yesterday and it's still rocking  . (107mph indicated LOLZ)
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Mar 9, 2009 22:26
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Captain Apollo posted:There is a reason so many people race sv's. I had full throttle for 2 HOURS yesterday and it's still rocking Full throttle, even indicated, should be quite a bit better than 107. Were you loaded to the brim with weight?
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Mar 10, 2009 05:47
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Yeah was rocking some saddlebags like in the sa relay posts. Okay well that opened up a whole can of worms about how well my SV is doing. I'm taking it to a guy my friends recommended to have my fork seals done, maybe I'll have him do an entire inspection here. My bike needs a LOT of love to get back to stock working condition, poor thing.
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Mar 10, 2009 06:30
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Got an email back from the guy with the salvage sv650quote:it doesn't need that much So he appears to be all 
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Mar 10, 2009 14:42
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dietcokefiend posted:Got an email back from the guy with the salvage sv650 Ask him about the damage to the frame and the cost to replace that. Also, gauges...that's for a broken set. A decent condition tank will be 200$+. So yeah, he's an idiot/full of poo poo. Not a suprise taht his price is high, as he's a buisness built around breaking bikes, but he made a stupid purchase there, and he's asking more than he should for it. Plus it's a salvage title, so it's actual value is somewhere in the 3500$ range as a result. If the title was still clear, 3200$ would be an ok price, because the worth of the bike after it all would be around 4-5k, but with the salvage title? Nah. Z3n fucked around with this message at 15:55 on Mar 10, 2009 |
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Mar 10, 2009 15:52
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Had a bit of a James May day today. Its so much fun planning to just lube the chain on the weekend, only to spend the better part of 4 hours pulling the rear end apart to go at everything with an old toothbrush and some kerosine. I was using Motul chain lube before and that stuff flung like a motherbitch. Have changed to Bel-Ray Superclean which is supposedly better. The end result.  Click here for the full 1920x1080 image.  Click here for the full 1920x1080 image.
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Mar 14, 2009 14:16
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That is disturbingly clean. I haven't cleaned the crap off my bike since September and I'm dreading what I'm going to see when I remove the chainguard.
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Mar 14, 2009 15:05
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Tentacle Party posted:I was using Motul chain lube before and that stuff flung like a motherbitch. Have changed to Bel-Ray Superclean which is supposedly better. Have you tried Dupont Teflon Chain Lube? http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/motorcycle-chain-lube/dupont-teflon-chain-lube.htm It's a dry lube that doesn't fling off the chain or attract dirt. I've been using it since I bought the bike and there are no signs of wear on the chain (but the bike has only about 2300 miles on it, so that doesn't necessarily mean anything). ^^^You clean the chain from the top? I just clean the bottom run of the chain under the swingarm and spin the wheel to get to the rest of the chain.
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Mar 14, 2009 15:20
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Now way that sprocket was that clean when the bike was new.
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Mar 14, 2009 16:57
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