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SVs are complete pieces. I bought one and 5 thousand miles later the loving transmission exploded. What a POS. Couldn't have had anything to do with the 2 seasons of racing and the 135,000 miles on it when I bought it though.  They're great bikes. I track mine. G/f got Tboned on hers, and I'm parting it out. Looking for any parts? 
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Nov 14, 2008 05:53
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Captain Apollo posted:! yeah I actually am. Was hers stock? What year? Mostly stock. First gen, just like yours. Items of interest that are left would probably be the rear shock, which was sprung for a heavier rider. It was good enough with just me on it (170 pounds or so + gear) but it really shined when we rode 2 up. So it's a little on the stiff side. Have aftermarket springs in the front forks which should still be good as well, maybe cartridge emulators as well. Haven't torn down the forks to check yet, and never got a good answer from the PO on what was in there. I also may have an exhaust...jardine header into blue flame can. Send me an e-mail or PM me if you're interested in any of it...I'd be happy to hook you up with some cheap parts. Spiffness: Gen 2 front ends I'm pretty sure are a straight swap. All of the GSX-R front ends are fantastic upgrades, you really can't go wrong. For ultimate bling, the gold forks with black nitride coating are good (not any better, just cool), and this blog post is essential to building a compatable front end if you're building from the ground up. That's all for first gen on the fitment stuff, I'm pretty sure that with a gen 2 everything just bolts up directly. Don't quote me on that though, I haven't done one on a gen 2...check SVrider.com. Either way, it's a great reference for which wheels and forks fit what. You'll probably be happy with just the gixxer front end brake upgrades, but if you really want to go all out, you can't beat a brembo master cylinder. 19x18 is recommended for the SV, and while it's blingy and a bit expensive, you can find one used for around 200$. You'll have to rig up some sort of pressure switch or shell out the extra for the one that has it though...but the braking feel and feedback from upgrading the MC is about the only really worthwhile upgrade. I've got a 19x20 on the trackbike, and it's a little overkill...either 19x18 or even 19x16 would be perfect for a streetbike. They make ones that are swappable on the fly now, which is...awesome. If your rubber lines are starting to degrade, SS lines are a good upgrade too. Count on about 500-700$ in upgrade parts if you want to get them now for the front end. If you're content to wait and snipe on ebay, or do a little work on your own (seals and such) you can usually get them for cheaper. SS lines can be had for around 100$, an aftermarket shock will run you from 300 to 600$, and a brembo MC will range from 150 to 350. Beware the chinese knockoffs, I wouldn't trust those for a second. You'll do the front end and then immediately want to do the back end because having a front end that functions correctly means it really highlights how squishy the rear shock is. Swaps from other bikes are cheap and easy and will offer some improvement, but the real solution is to find a aftermarket shock. If I owned a SV that I wanted for the street and was going to shell out for a front end swap, I'd do the front end, SS lines, and a aftermarket shock. If you really wanted astounding braking, I'd find a brembo MC. Well, that's quite long enough. Any additional questions feel free to ask. Z3n fucked around with this message at 08:09 on Nov 14, 2008 |
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Nov 14, 2008 07:57
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MuffinMan posted:Oh hey, I also bought a 2001, with 21k miles on it. And I too need new fork seals, this is weird. Valve adjustment, check/lube the bearings. Flush/replace the brake fluid, fork oil. Exhaust is available if someone wants it...I'd like to get 250$ shipped for it. I'll take pics a bit later if people are interested.
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Nov 14, 2008 20:51
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2000 SV650S 01 GSX-R 750 front end. Penske 2 way shock Aluminum subframe Aluminum fairing stay Vapor gauges Daytona lap timer -1, +2 gearing CFM rearsets stacked on sv-racing-parts rearset riser plates. Airbox de-snorkled M4 midmount exhaust Brembo MC, calipers, ss lines. Edit: Exhaust listed on ebay. I'll sell it to someone on here for cheaper...I bought it for 225, so...make a reasonable offer. Double edit: Action shots!  
Z3n fucked around with this message at 20:20 on Nov 15, 2008 |
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Nov 15, 2008 06:36
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ranathari posted:Might as well ask here before I go to one of the dedicated SV forums. 01s do not have lean sensors. There are 2 cutout switches for starting, one for the kickstand and one at the clutch. Check both of those...there's probably a short or one of them is not engaging correctly. Easiest way to test it to complete the circuit on both of those and see if that solves the problem. The easier one to get to is the one up at the clutch lever, jump that plug with a piece of wire first and see if the problem goes away.
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Nov 16, 2008 03:31
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Konigwheels posted:I too will soon be purchasing a 30,000 mile Sv650 for $1500. Call me a squid, but I really want a wider wheel/tire combo on the back (180-190) because I love the look and in my experience a wider rear tire makes handling a little slower and more predictable. Are there any setups people run that are easy enough that a good home mechanic could accomplish? You can swap a F3 rear wheel on there to fit a 180. It's a popular cosmetic mod. It's basically useless (the fast guys go just as fast on production bikes as they do on superbike 650s), but it's cool looking. Find an F3 rear wheel, and pick up the spacer kit from Zoran at Twin Works Factory. You could order them from SV Racing Parts, but Blair is a douchebag who bought Zoran's kit and then sent it to his machinist to get it copied.  The pictures that SV Racing Parts has of the F3 kit are actually the ones Zoran took of his kit. If you feel like the handling of your bike is squirelly, get it set up correctly. Larger/wider tires, like steering dampers, will mask core setup issues that could be dangerous. quote:Basically. Where do I find better/stock mirrors, turn signals, tires, and seats? Ebay. You can get the really nice CRG stuff from CRG directly when it comes to bar end mirrors and the like. Turn signals are best as cheap ebay specials, remember that you'll have to get a modulator if you get a set of LED ones. Tires, I recommend any sport touring type tires out there. You won't be able to outride them or want for traction...http://www.swmototires.com/ or ebay is where i typically source my tires. Don't go over a 160 in the back, it's not a good idea. Seats, your options are the SV stock seat, a gel seat, or a corbin. Seats are a matter of personal preference, so you just kinda gotta take a shot at them and figure out what you like.
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Nov 17, 2008 01:48
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I would highly recommend that you check the valves. SVs are typically pretty forgiving about that, but the bike will feel a lot better after you do that. Valves are one of those things where you won't see a huge performance decrease going on until you get some sweet piston/valve love going on. You could have gotten lucky and ended up with one that was set particularly loose from the factory, but engines are expensive to gamble on for a few hundred $ in maintenence or some time.
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Nov 19, 2008 21:24
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jujube posted:Just ordered a new Leovince EVOII pipe, low mount. Cost is 234,- euros which is not that expensive (for dutch standards). I've read some things about installing an airfilter when going for a new pipe, is this advisable? Also, anyone have some experience fitting an aftermarket pipe on <02's? Kind of wondering where I have to cut the stock can off... Let's explain these one at a time: The new pipe will have less backpressure, which will effectively lean out your mixture. A new airfilter will allow more air to flow in, also leaning out your mixture. A jet kit/power commander will help compensate for both of these and give you the best throttle response and power across the range. With that said, I ran an M4 full system with the stock airbox and jetting for quite awhile and it was just fine. I'd just run the slipon and not bother with the airbox and such. If you have a raging desire for more power down the road, gut the snorkle on your airbox, and toss a jet kit/power commander in there with some baseline settings off of SVrider or dynojet's website and then get it tuned at your leisure.
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Nov 20, 2008 18:18
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EvilCrayon posted:I'm probably going to buy an 03 SV650 in January. Anything I should keep my eyes peeled for? Any issues I should check for? Honestly, there's not some super special failure that SVs are known for or anything. You're just looking for the basics, that it's been taken care of, oil changes, etc. They're pretty easy to maintain. Valve adjustments are the work of a day, there's plenty of writeups on how to do all the maintenence on the bikes, there's a huge aftermarket for them, blah blah blah.
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Nov 20, 2008 21:58
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Captain Apollo posted:Anybody think 120/70 17 tires would be a bad choice in the front? Is maxxis a good brand? What size should I look at for the rear tire? Any sport touring tire. You can't outride them on the street, they'll perform better before they get warmed up, work better in the rain. 120/70 is fine. Don't bother with Street/track tires, you'll wear them out and get nothing more than a bill for new tires to show for it.
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Nov 24, 2008 06:42
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Captain Apollo posted:And 160/60 for the rear, right? Correct.
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Nov 25, 2008 22:43
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Sounds like it's the carbs. But if you don't know the routine for your bike, it could just be stalling out because you don't have the choke all the way open. Pull the choke all the way open (towards you as you sit on the bike) and start the bike. It should idle at around 2k for about 5-20 seconds and then jump up to around 4k. You can back it down (push it away from you) until the engine idles at around 2k for a bit, pop on your gloves, etc, and then hop on and ride off. If it dies when you give it throttle, it's because the carbs are clogged and you're not getting fuel. You could have also adjusted the idle adjustment so rich that the bike no longer runs, which is why it's dying when you back off the throttle. IIRC, if you turn the adjuster clockwise, it'll up the idle, and if you turn it counterclockwise, it'll lower the idle. Don't recall for sure, though. Wait until the engine is warmed up before adjusting it, use the choke until it's all ready to go.
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Dec 2, 2008 00:43
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Spiffness posted:Thank you for this. It is pre-2006. 2007 got the kickass dual plug head. FWIW, I've never had a problem with mine cutting out in rain, but I've only ridden through a few torrential downpours. I just always made sure the spark plug top sealed well.
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Dec 5, 2008 21:00
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Orange Someone posted:I can never remember which bikes are easier to bump start and which are more challenging. I know it's something to do with displacement, compression and type of engine. Bigger cylinders with higher compression are harder to start. Rule of thumb could be: bikes with a lot of engine braking are harder to start. Atomic, it's not a big deal. Just get it rolling, kick it into second, and drop the clutch. Don't let it out, drop it. The bike will skid for a second (you'll hardly notice it) and then cough to life. Quickly pull in the clutch and you're good to go.
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Dec 8, 2008 20:34
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I've got a stock one from a gen one if that's what you have, if you'd like to go the easy way about things. Send me a PM or e-mail if you want it. 
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Dec 9, 2008 00:23
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I can probably find you a new set of vortex rearsets for cheaper than that. If you're interested, hit me up via e-mail or PM. Less well known brands tend to be a little difficult to source parts for. Also, LEDs don't draw as much current as normal bulbs, so if you're going with LEDs just in the front, count on a blink rate that's around twice as fast. If you go all around, you need a flash rate controller, or they'll pulse rapidly rather than blink.
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Dec 11, 2008 19:09
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TheFonz posted:I find it to be useful as poo poo when I'm loading the bike on and unloading the bike off my rearstand. They're also handy points for tying down luggage.
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Dec 28, 2008 09:20
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Artemis J Brassnuts posted:Also, the SV love in this thread will surely stop me from buying the sexy, sexy, Ducati 999 I keep oogling. Nope, sorry, it won't. I'm pretty sure the 999 is the dark mistress of most SV riders. 
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Jan 3, 2009 07:12
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Artemis J Brassnuts posted:The same place that has the 999 has that Xerox bike there as well. 40k for a car isn't that fancy, but there's something about seeing a forty-thousand dollar price tag on a bike that just seemed... utterly mad. I'd never buy a $40k bike for the same reason that I'd never buy a $100 pair of sunglasses. When your $10 sunglasses end up at the bottom of the harbor, you can laugh about it. When your $100 sunglasses end up in the same place, it's not so funny. If it's 40k, they're either nuts, or that's a 999R, with the absurdly built racing spec engine. I'd gamble on the second. It still "only" makes like, 150hp, but they won a lot of championships with it.
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Jan 3, 2009 19:26
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Artemis J Brassnuts posted:Riding to work in a Seattle Winter? You guys are dedicated. I start getting second thoughts about riding to work if it's less than 50. Heated grips and gear go a long ways towards making cold trips on the bike more livable. And yeah, the 999R is pretty loving absurd. One day I'll have a track rat 999...although I'd debate turning it into a streetfighter with huge rear end bars on it, just to gently caress with people.
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Jan 4, 2009 06:41
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Endless Mike posted:I'm going to be starting to ride in the very near future, and it seems the general consensus is that these are good to start on, and I like the way the naked ones look. Is this accurate or am I going to kill myself? Note I'm a big person at 6'1" 250. Depends on how restrained you are with the throttle and such. It can still pitch you off, it's the top of the power range for a new rider, but it's a bike that you won't grow out of, as well. So...if you're inclined to be safer over more aggressive, it should be fine. If you've got good instruction and good instincts, you'll be fine. If you've got previous dirt experience, that'll help a lot. But it can still bite, hard, if you gently caress it up. It'll do 0-60 in a little under 4 seconds, and has all the cornering performance you should want on the streets...so, it's a bike to be respected.
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Jan 5, 2009 04:21
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Captain Apollo posted:Hrm! I want to email because I like to win, but I don't know what a lowering link does. :| Lowering links lower the back end of the bike, for more easy flatfooting.
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Jan 14, 2009 06:35
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Captain Apollo posted:This is ridiculous. Check svrider.com's parts for sale section. They're up there quite a bit.
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Feb 4, 2009 17:58
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Christobevii3 posted:Well from watching youtube videos i've seen quit a few people accidentally grab the throttle full out before they wreck as a knee jerk reaction. My gf isn't use to driving a manual anything so just thinking as a safety thing. No, people are just idiots. Is your g/f an idiot? If she's not, she won't have a problem.
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Feb 8, 2009 03:53
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Jack the Smack posted:Is there a correlation between ccs and fatality rates in any published studies? I know sport bikes in general have higher fatality rates per vehicle. Yes, higher displacement bikes are found to be underrepresented in accidents, but injury severity is higher. http://www.clarity.net/~adam/hurt-report.html #32
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Feb 8, 2009 20:17
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Atomic Hotdog posted:My '99 has a bit of trouble going on with it's brake lever. It's really loose and allows my brake light to be on when I'm not braking.. I tried tightening the screw/bolt that's on it, but I managed to brake the screw, and now I got two problems! Before it broke, it didn't seem to get any better. Is there a way to adjust this? Perch was probably damaged in an accident. I'd bet it's bent somewhere and that's what's allowing the free play. Replace it with an Ebay item? Or a brembo one? 
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Feb 9, 2009 19:04
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elsanto posted:So it looks like Suzuki won't be selling the 650S in the States for 2009. I really like the V-Twin and the bikini fairing. Suzuki still offers this combo in the V-Strom, a bike I know nothing about. Same engine. It looks like it has a pretty upright profile, too. Anybody ever ridden one? The SV650N is being discontinued in the US (replaced by the gladius) but the SV650S will continue. I'm not quite sure which bike you're refering to.
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Feb 24, 2009 20:14
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elsanto posted:Looks like the internet agrees with you. Suzuki's website doesn't have a 2009 SV650S up yet, which threw me. I was under the impression that both the naked and the S were going away. That was my initial impression as well, but I recall checking into it a while back and realizing that only the SV650N was going. The 2009 SV650 will likely just be exactly the same as all of the previous models.
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Feb 24, 2009 22:59
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Infinotize posted:Anyone do their own valve adjustments? My SV is going track whore and is going to need it done within the next month and a half. Last interval I checked the clearances and didn't have to do anything, but judging by how they were last time there will almost certainly be some tight ones. Find a cheap set of small screwdrivers, break the handles off, and then bend them so that you can retract the cam chain tensioners without removing them from the bike. Hold them in place with vice grips and you're good to go. Unless you have the special 'zook tool, which I've never had, it's pretty absurdly difficult to get the cam chain tensioner in while still holding the tensioned rod back via the slot in the back. Buy or borrow a complete set of shims. You're welcome to borrow mine if you'd like (e-mail me, PM), I think it may be missing a single size range from last time I loaned it out. Either way, the SV uses 7.48mm shims, which are used in a shitload of bikes. They're gonna be expensive at the shop (around 8$ a pop, usually), so if you have to adjust a number of them or plan on ever owning another bike that will use 7.48 shims, it's worth it. Plus the ease of just grabbing a shim out of the box, and tossing it in, rather than having to pull everything, measure them, see if you can swap shims anywhere, and then going to the dealership with a list of sizes, getting reamed on price, and then having to put it all back together. Plus, if you have the shims on hand, you don't have to rotate the engine while you've got the cams out, making getting them back into the correct location much, much easier. Rotax uses 10mm shims, which are apparently only shared by some KTMs and the V-Rod, so unfortunantly you can't double up there. I've always used Clymers manuals, and have been led wrong occasionally (no, you can't shove your finger down the CCT hole to prevent the chain from skipping links while you turn it over), but their diagrams are dead on (probably lifted directly from the factory manual). If you're paranoid about getting them back in dead on, turn the bike over till the timing mark for the front cylinder, check the clearences, and then if you have to pull them, take a picture of the location of the cams, dead on from the side. Then you can swap everything, and realign them according to the picture. If you're really desperate for accurate diagrams, I can take a picture out of my repair manual which I know is correct. Diet, that bike is worth maybe 2k at most. Scratch on the frame, damaged gauge cluster (expensive), tank (expensive). I personally wouldn't buy it unless I got it for 1500$ or less. Preferably less. Edit: UltimateCool, that click is probably your starter solenoid. I wouldn't be too concerned about it unless your bike stops starting on uphills. It's probably just a little sticky when it's tilted like that, so it's snapping shut loud enough to give you a click. Z3n fucked around with this message at 18:26 on Mar 9, 2009 |
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Mar 9, 2009 18:18
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dietcokefiend posted:Shot this over to him, can't wait for a reply back 4-5k.
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Mar 9, 2009 18:40
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"Since the bike has a salvage title and would need considerable repairs to register and make road worthy, would you consider anything lower (1500-2000)?"
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dietcokefiend posted:Nice, that means this area is on par. A few spotless 07 sv650s are around here for about 4k. Since 07 was the first year to go dual spark plug with the different head, was there any problems associated with that? Also what sort of cylinder liners are on the sv650 models? Is it iron or the newer nickle plating that is seen on almost every other Suzuki bike? No problems with the dual spark heads as far as I'm aware. I'm 90% sure that they're iron.
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Mar 9, 2009 18:53
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dietcokefiend posted:That new Gladius engine has that newer coating instead of liners. They dont mention that on the sv650sf, wonky. Yeah. I'm pretty sure they're iron because I know people have done bores on the SV650, but it looks like that may be out on the gladius engine? It looks like it should fit the same mounts, so I wonder how long it'll be before some racer (or Zoran) ends up with a gladius engine and will see how much power it can take...
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Mar 9, 2009 19:05
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dietcokefiend posted:Was the new engine supposed to be better (stronger) or just cheaper to make? Who knows. The 2nd gen engine was supposed to be better (FI, blah blah blah) but it turns out that it'll snap the crank if you push over 80rwhp with mods. Gladius could have fixed that, could have not fixed that, but with the coating you can't hone to fit busa pistons (increased compression) and who knows if the cam swap will work anymore... Gen one bike is a lot more upgradable, gen 2 has some of those upgrades done...it's a mixed bag. I'm curious to see what happens with the gladius, though.
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Mar 9, 2009 19:54
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dietcokefiend posted:In stock engine configurations are there any problems or is it just when you start pushing it? No, zero problems. 80hp is with a cam swap, flatslides, and a good full system on the bike, to get over that you're looking at some kind of engine work. I've heard that over 90 they start to run into transmission issues, but it'd take a lot of work to get an SV over 90, you'd have a time bomb anyways, so it's just a race to see if the engine goes or the transmission goes first.
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Mar 9, 2009 21:02
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dietcokefiend posted:Got an email back from the guy with the salvage sv650 Ask him about the damage to the frame and the cost to replace that. Also, gauges...that's for a broken set. A decent condition tank will be 200$+. So yeah, he's an idiot/full of poo poo. Not a suprise taht his price is high, as he's a buisness built around breaking bikes, but he made a stupid purchase there, and he's asking more than he should for it. Plus it's a salvage title, so it's actual value is somewhere in the 3500$ range as a result. If the title was still clear, 3200$ would be an ok price, because the worth of the bike after it all would be around 4-5k, but with the salvage title? Nah. Z3n fucked around with this message at 15:55 on Mar 10, 2009 |
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Mar 10, 2009 15:52
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Simkin posted:It is really, really good for not flinging off. Buuuuuuuuut.... It turns into loving gummy poo poo after a short while, and holy crap, does it ever bind well with sand/dirt/grime/wildlife. I now just relegate it to use on my track bike, as I can't have anything flinging off where it could gently caress someone else's day up, but on all my other bikes, I'm using gear oil, fling off be damned. I run gear oil on the track. Hell, I used 30w motor oil last time because I neglected to bring gear oil. As long as wipe off your chain nicely, you're not going to fling off in such a fashion as to cause a bad day for anyone. If you're super paranoid about it, just lube it the day before, and lay some towels down to catch it as it drips off. Then wipe it down one last time at the track and you're good to go. Z3n fucked around with this message at 19:44 on Mar 14, 2009 |
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Mar 14, 2009 18:32
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Oil light buisness is normal. You don't have a lot of oil pressure when the bike isn't running  The front end thing could be normal brake dragging, or it could be an issue with a bearing. I'd hesitate to recommend a private mechanic without prior knowledge of them and their work. There's some very trustworthy ones out there, and there's some complete scumbags. At least with a dealership you've got someone bigger than a guy in their garage to go after if there's a problem. I'd take it into a dealership, tell them what you just told us, and ask for a pre/post purchase inspection. Tell them that you want them to do anything that needs to be done. I'm going to guess that they'll check all of the consumables and the fluids as well as go over all of the basics on it, check out that noise from the front end, and just make sure you're ready to go. If you feel like you're getting shafted, just drop back by the thread with a list of what they're charging you for and we'll be happy to go over if it's reasonable or not. What sort of mileage does it have on it? It may need the valves checked, which could be a few hundred $. What sort of mechanical experience (if any) do you have? You should learn to take care of the basics that you'll need, like checking your chain and lubing it and your oil level.
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Apr 8, 2009 00:06
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Apathy=Awesome posted:Mileage is 14,500, I think I can afford to have the valves checked since I was able to snag the bike for $2100 If you don't have proof that they've been done, it'd be a very good idea to have them checked. The oil is simple...there's a sight glass on the right side, by the clutch cover. Stand the bike upright on level ground, and it should go up to the middle of the sight glass. I went the opposite direction with gen 1 and gen 2 looks...loved the gen 2, hated the gen 1, now I've own 2 gen ones.  The gen 2 does have much more kickass tail lights though.
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Apr 8, 2009 01:04
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There are some advantages to a down economy.
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MourningGlory posted:Can anyone recommend a standard-mount slip-on that sounds good (deep, rumbly, not raspy) but is not significantly louder than the stock can? Or at least, not offensively loud? Avoid M4, Yoshi. I'd recommend micron if you can find one.
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Apr 9, 2009 05:42
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MourningGlory posted:Now see, others have specifically said that the Yoshi RS-3 is fairly quiet. Which model are you referring to? Pipes are in the ear of the beholder? I had an RS3 Race full titanium system with no baffle. It was loud as hell. Maybe other people had the "street" baffle in theirs? I'm pretty sure that hindle, muzzy, and yoshi all make baffles. I know for sure that blue flame does. If you want a snazzy can that can be quiet or loud, pick up a blue flame one. It's got 2 exhaust outlets, of which you can baffle both or one, so you can get a more raspy sound, a deeper sound, or have it be quiet. I'm gonna try and find one for my streetbike.
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Apr 9, 2009 06:28
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