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Napoleons, or finding a random set of mirror mounts that will work.
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Jul 20, 2016 04:04
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| # ¿ May 10, 2024 14:11 |
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Just spend like 5 bucks more on an OEM filter? Seems very penny wise / pound foolish here.
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Jul 26, 2016 00:52
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It's not that bad. Worst part is pulling the rear CCT if you have to adjust the rear cylinder. Remove the footpeg bracket in order to get more access. My tips are: One cylinder at a time. Don't turn the engine over with the cams out. Mark the cams to the cam chain so it's easy to reinstall them at the same location. Take a picture of the cam markings when you're at TDC. Adjust to just off the loose end of the spec if possible. It's a 45 minute job if you've done it before a few times, adjustment included. Buy a shim kit. Procedure looks like this: Lift tank Unbolt radiator, disconnect / remove fan and sensor wiring if needed to get more space, swing it down and out of the way Remove coil boots Pull plugs Remove valve covers Remove crank rotation plug/inspection port Rotate to tdc on one cylinder (making sure the cams aren't depressing the valves so you know you're at tdc). Take a picture of how the cam markings line up with the heads, then measure, if adjustment is needed, mark cams to cam chain, remove CCT, remove cams, swap shims one at a time, reinstall cams, torquing cam caps with a torque wrench, reinstall CCT (make sure it deploys after you've installed it so you don't over tension the chain) Once first cylinder is done, turn over the engine by hand until the second cylinder is at TDC, repeat above. Once you've got both cylinders adjusted, rotate it through a few times and take a look at your pictures to make sure the engine doesn't jump time and the cam markings line up like they did before. Reinstall valve covers, fresh plugs, plug boots, radiator, lower tank, off you go.
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Aug 4, 2016 00:28
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Are you filling the tank by just jamming the nozzle in there?
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Aug 8, 2016 00:47
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Gotta pull the fore skin back and top it off manually or you're never gonna really fill 'er up.
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Aug 8, 2016 20:40
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You get a front fender extender to really fix it.
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Sep 10, 2016 06:55
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You're never going to see more than a few mpg from gearing changes and with that sort of gearing you're going to murder your clutch pulling away from a stop.
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Sep 18, 2016 18:12
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Gearing trades acceleration for top speed, basically. If you gear shorter, more acceleration, if you gear taller, higher top speed. With shorter gearing comes higher cruising RPMs per gear, taller leads to lower. Fuel efficiency can go up or down depending on if the engine is operating in an efficient range or not, but RPM is just one factor, throttle opening and wind resistance and overall RPM efficiency based on tuning/engine design also make a large difference. Basically, if you have to use a pile more throttle because RPMs are low and th ebike is out of the power, you might geared it taller but ended up making mileage worse as the engine operates out of effective RPM range.
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Sep 19, 2016 08:28
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| # ¿ May 10, 2024 14:11 |
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Nah, the SV is totally the Miata. The Ninja 250 is your mom's old corolla that you can thrash within an inch of it's life and still probably mostly not kill yourself. The fact that the SV does 0-60 in like 3.8 seconds or whatever is just why bikes own, but at that point your basis of comparison is bikes like the S1000XR. Where you'd be shifting out of 4th gear at 70 on an SV, you'd be slamming the quickshifter to take you out of first on the XR, laughing like a maniac as you ride the wheelie into second gear and warp speed. By the time the SV is topped out, you've still got 3 more gears on the XR.
Z3n fucked around with this message at 10:33 on May 28, 2017 |
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May 28, 2017 10:31
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